ryland_moore

If you look back at the posts, Beck did not come out and say that he was taking the lead, he was getting sponsors, would have a raffle for prizes and would go corporate prior to the cc.com world finding out about "Beckfest". If he did hint at anything, I would assume most people would take it as him doing the same thing he did last year. A pub club does not constitute a quarum. And after the pub club, there was no dialogue by Beck or anyone in attendance about the "glossies" (whatever that means) or his plans/ideas for this year's Rope Up. I think the first thing we ever heard about corporate sponsorship was from ehmic when she made a post stating that she received an e-mail from AAC that had "Beckfest" on their calendar. All I am saying is that there are ways to do business and ways to not do business. Beck's approach came off sneaky and I fully understand why others have their hackles up. There are ways to make friends and ways to make enemies. Beck has discovered the latter and I hope it is a life lesson. If he does this in his professional life and organizes/comes to consensus in a similar fashion, then I imagine he is burning some serious professional bridges out there (ones he may not even know he had) and making a reputation for himself as one not to work with cause he will take all the credit and throw his partners to the ground. Word of mouth will make you or break you in your career and in life. Just from Beck's own personal posts (reaks of arrogance and conceitedness), I'd say he is on the losing end. Also, if Beck is really like his personal posts, which may not even be the case, then having him as a spokesperson talking to govt. officials about climbing access may not be the best thing. Beck is not a PR person, he is a journalist if I am unmistaken and these are two different vocations entirely. To be in PR, one has to be sensitive to ther audience in question. A quality and skill Beck most definately does not possess. I am sure the Rope Up will be wonderful, will be a big hit, and a wonderful success. Beck seems to have done a good job at organizing the event. Just not a good job of PR with the folks that truely matter, the climbers on this site. Lessons in life is all one can chalk this situation up to be. Sorry for the diatribe.

Well, at least he is used to it. Been happening to Beck all his life. Why break the trend now?

Mattp, I think the issue is that the rest of cc.comers never had the opportunity, b/c it was being done behind closed doors with no consultation to anyone else until a lot of Beckfest was all lined up. Beck deserves any bashing he gets.

Please post the exact locations of these areas if possible. It would be good to go check out. Also, Lost Rocks on the N. Cali coast is a pretty awesome boulder area to hang out at.

Schnitzem, not girlfriend, just friend from Leavenworth whom I met on Denali. We only stayed that one night and hiked out on Sunday after our climb. I live in Eugene, so Sunday was a pretty long day for me.

I will definately be there to celebrate my birthday in fine style (Getting too drunk to climb the next day!). My girlfriend may come as well. Hands off Erik!

Scnitzem, good to see you two at Lake Vivienne on Sat. evening. I was the guy with the girl cooking by the Lake on your way out. Sounds like an excellent climb.

Climbed W. Ridge on Sunday. Fun climb. Approach up Snow Creek to Lake Vivian LONG. 6 hrs. TH to Lake Vivian. The Enchantments ROCK and are beautiful. Climbing the W. Ridge was awesome. Not too hard but had some nice exposure on EXCELLENT ROCK. Hiking out the same day and driving back to Eugene is so SUCK! Left Lake Vivian at 3pm. Back to car at 7pm. Back to Eugene at 1:30am. Note to self: Wait until the Colchuck Lake TH reopens, and approach Enchantments from this side, dropping a car at the Snow Creek TH. Stay in the enchantments longer than 24 hrs. and climb multiple peaks. ie. Temple Ridge Traverse or the like. All in all an excellent way to end my alpine season.

Similar to the guy who crossed the english channel afte3r jumping out of a plane at 30,000' wearing a Red Bull wing on his back.....

Got to this site and click on Soul Flyers. You must download this! Watch as this guy passes some skiers/boarders climbing up the ridgeline!

I've been climbing for eleven years now and still hate rappelling. This is mainly because I am not in control. Even on a runout with a bad decking potential, it doesn't bother me as much because I am in control. A rappel is about trusting gear and gear only. No way to save yourself if the gear fails. My 2 cents. Funny picts b the way!

Ooh yah, you betcha! They have funny accents too!

Foraker?

Does the FDA also approve the orange dye they use to make farmed salmon flesh pink/orange since the fish are not eating the crustaceans that give wild salmon their flesh color? Farmed salmon would actually be grey without these dyes. Pretty gross huh?

The 2nd pitch, while intimidating, is an move once on it, at least compared to that last lunge move at the top of 1st pitch under the roof IMO.

I disagree Sphinx. There is an easier way of doing it. Right after you get to the first pin, there is a small ledge off to the right that then leads up a short crack roughly 10 ft. high. If you look in the new Leavenworth Guidebook, that is where the route shows you are supposed to go. Anyone ever done the route this way?

The first pitch of Canary seems to be straightforward yet JKrueger and I somehow did a variation. We started up higher and to the left of the normal crack line on a crack that angled up and right to the base of a double craqck. We followed this beyond the normal exit off to a ledge on the right and went straight up clipping two fixed pins to right underneath the roof with a bunch of webbing. Then it was a tough move using yoiur left hand for a side pull and throw up onto the ledge with your right. Is this the standard way or a variation? If so, what is the grade? Maybe I'm just a uss, but that last move seemd bouldery and harder than 5.8.

I know of one that just moved to town.....and she is single! Plus she can kick my ass in the BC. Literally flew up Denali!

Send 'em to the Rubber Room in Bishop, CA. They will fix 'em up good as new for ~ $40. I've done this to a pair of Bamba's 4 times now.

Never even been up in that area, so I assume not. Thanks for making me feel like a dumbass Erik!

Just wondering if there was any snow (doubtful) between the rappel descent heading back to Prusik Pass. Just wondering what kind of footwear to take up the route. I am sure all the snow up to the Pass is gone. Heading up this weekend. Thanks for any info.

Just spent the weekend on Vancouver Island sea kayaking near Telegraph Cove. Couple of questions since it was the first time I ever ventured into that part of Canada: 1) What up with the Vancouver Island mullets? Everywhere I looked I saw a mullet. I thought I was at a hockey game in 1980. Also, everyone from Vancouver Island seemed shy, yet those we met from Alberta were very outgoing? Just a random occurrance or what? Do Americans really smell that bad? Finally, the N. Island of Vancouver Island is awesome! Beautiful mountains, whales, eagles, bears, and perfect weather. Couldn't have asked for a better weekend.

Nice job Pete! Now on to Olympus!

When was the last time, Jordpoop, that you were free soloing a 60 ft. trad route rated 5.13? Well, that is pretty much what Evilution is rated (V12) at 60 ft. high on Grandpa Peabody in the Buttermilks. Famed climber Daniel Du Lac was about half way up when he pitched off and shattered his ankle. It may not be an epic from Mark Twight's perspective, but I would much rather be on almost any moderate alpine route run-out 40 ft. in the N. Cascades than even attempting that "problem." (Couldn't even do the first move on that thing!) An Epic is what you make of it as is all styles of climbing. Is someone who climbs no harder than 5.5 and is out climbing easy one poitch slab routes really a climber? Are you a climber becasue you can climb 5.9 trad and 5.11 sport? Some people may not think so. Climbing is what you make of it. Getting out is what it is alkl about. If you never go beyond the sdhort trail by the parking lot, but can climb 5.13, are you a climber? What about someone who can't climb 5.9 sport, but can lead .10 cracks? All of the above are climbers. I go a little beyond that, and if it pushes mentally as much as it does physically, I feel like I am "climbing." Regardless of whether or not it is alpine rock, sport routes, bouldering, ice climbing, or mountaineering. Nuf said....

Best wishes to friends and family. Wonder if there has been an increase in buildering since the film, Front Range Freaks, with Timmy O'Neil came out last year? Who builders on this site?