ryland_moore

It will prep us for next weekend when we have to deal with bikers and locals from Wenatchee!

Word on the street is that there are going to be kegs at the Grasslands this weekend! May want to up the numbers you have for cc.comers as it seems like there will be plenty o' non-cc.comers hanging around the tap this year!

As you all head out into the wilderness to onsight some sport routes, thrash up some boulder problems, jump on some glacier ice, or take advantage of some good weather in the alpine, do not forget to drink a beer for the homies who passed away 5 years ago on Shishapangma. This Sunday, the 5th is the 5 year anniversary of the death of Alex Lowe and David Bridges. I'll have a beer or 8 at the grasslands. Hope y'all do the same.

Find a really large area and stake it out for everyone! Maybe the back end of the grasslands (North) or the West end? See y'all Friday around 8pm.

If you do sky ridge, it is mandatory to finish with the Skydive (10b) variation. Although I have never done the actual 2nd pitch of skyline, it looks pretty ho-hum when compared to the fianl moves of skydive. I've now followed it and lead it since last winter and think it is an awesome line!

Al, I don't think it is so simple as to answer with a blanket statement. I guess it is all in the art of placing a bolt. If there is a descent clip say 5 ft. below the crux, place one there, then place one just after the crux, assuming the crux may only be a few moves. So that it may be a bit runout with bolts placed 15 ft. apart. All in all, your first thought should be safety, whether or not it can be aided or not. If they work together and you can have your cake and eat it too, I have no problems with your practices. If, on the other hand, you deliberately set bolts to make it impossible to aid, but lacked the effort to ensure that it was a clean fall or could cause serious injury, I wouldn't be surprised to see you bolts getting yanked and retro bolted. Be cautious and bold if possible! Have fun!

I'll second that! For a gear shop in any town, they are amazing. Plus they are in internet sales too, so have a wide variety of stuff. Went in there a few weeks ago to see if they carried the Beckey books (didn't have the maroon one) and although they weren't carrying books at the time, he ordered them for me! Screw REI! Plus these guys are strong climbers who know what's up, unlike some gear whore wanna be at REI (at least in Eugene - I know some Seattle REI folks that are pretty cool). BackCountry Gear - run by climbers for climbers! Hey, this could be an SAT analogy question: REI is to BEckfest as Backcountry Gear is to:________ Answer: SMiffy Rope Up Yeah! These guys will outcompete Mountain Gear, Shoreline, and are a lot more friendly and more knowledgeable than places like REI. Hell, they are even better albeit much smaller shop than Teton Profiteering in Jackson!

As to the first question, I would suggest that bolts be placed at a descent rest before the crux. If that occurs just below the crux or several moves below the crux, I think it is imaterial, unless an objective hazard or chance of a bad fall are possible. Then my opinion menas nothing.

Redneck tourist trap. To bring in the money and make everyone interested, they used to pay farmers $50 back in the 1940's and '50s to paint the add on the side of their barns. You see signs all over the south, from Florida all the way up to Ohio. It is like the Wall Drug of the South, if that helps.

In college as a pledge with a fraternity, we pulled a prank on another fraternity. The fraternity house had a steep roof that faced out onto the main street of campus. During the early morning hours a few friends and I climbed up the outside chimney (sandstone), heal hooked up over the roof to gain access. I belayed up my other pledge brothers. We had a rolling painter, a bucket of paint, a dynamic rope, and a paint roller bin. One guy got on the opposite side of the roof to act as an anchor while keeping me locked off, the other guy stayed tied to the chimney and held the paint roller bin, and I was in charge of painting. Since the roof was steep (approx. 50 degrees) I had my climbing shoes on. We had to be quiet as there were members of their fraternity asleep in the house. I proceeded to paint 6 ft. tall letters to spell out "See Rock City". If you've ever been in the South, especially Tennessee, you will know what this means. The other fraternity was less than pleased when they woke up the next morning.

Come down to the Cuthbert tonight! Or check 'em out in Seattle on Sunday! Thjis will be the first show I've sen without Houser

every off-width I have ever lead and TR'ed. You'd think I learned by now!

Let me know how I can help out. My girlfriend and I will be there to climb, party with everyone, celbrate my birthday, climb some more, and spray!!! Only a week away!

Widespread Panic in Eugene Tonight!!!!

I second Caveat Emptor. Really two super hard (for me) hand cracks. The 1st of two is a traversing crack angling up and right with no feet and some wonderful exposer. The next pitch is a step finger crack that then goes into a little roof move up and to the right with the crack going right out through the roof. I cussed the whole way!

Good way to look at it Erik. I'll see ya Saturday after a bout with Snow Creek Wall. Best be bringin' your drinking spurs!

Remember the post last week about carrying a gun in WA state? You should be o.k. Erik! Excercise your right! The FS may not agree, but I will bring some skeet and we can shoot over the creek once we have enough beers. Oh wait, I guess it is BYOB now.

Beck, I find it a great disservice to make it appear that you are taking the lead and taking care of everything, yet are realizing that the event you are trying to put on is too big for even you and a few of your friends . So you send HikerWa as the messenger so that you don't get jumped on as he come crawling back to the group that was upset with his efforts to begin with. Oh, now Beck actually wants our help and input! I will not be contributing anything to your party unless you want me to bring a donated keg up there from TG, if he would even be so kind as to donate one after you burned that bridge. I am sure all of the other campers in the Icicle are going to love a DJ and sound system up there during their family campout. Also, it is Octoberfest uo there. They are having it two weekends back to back this year, so be prepared for a lot of folks who are not climbers to be there. My funds will go to AAC and Access Fund but nothing to Beck. May see you guys around on Saturday evening. Beck, go ask the Mountaineers for some help. They are organized and have all the gear in the world!

Our murder rates are high, but I think the attack on Heston in BFC was a little irrational. Guns don't kill people, people kill people. Mr. Moore is a witty individual and I think his heart is in the right place, but does step too far over the line with some of his antics. For the record, I am considered a liberal in the South and a Conservative in Eugene, if that helps.

Thanks Freeman. Yeah, the most recent AINAM which covers accidents from last year (2002) did not have a thing about Erik's friend who fell at the top of S. But on Cutthroat or the Chilean who fell down the Cooper Spur on Hood last year. Both incidents seemed like they could have provided some beneficial insights and learnings for other climbers.

Tennessee High or Virginia High?

Matt Burns was his climbing partner, not the 28 year old in the accident. Re-read the AP release, Dru.

Damn, that sucks. Any more info? Route they were climbing? How the guy fell?Was he at the top? As a side note, I have been fairly dissapointed with the number of accidents I have heard about in the Pacific Northwest that are never reported in the AINAM. Please, if you are a party involved in an accident, please report it. Many other climbers will learn from mistakes made and may even save a life. My condolences to family and friends.

Yeah, I was working a V4 boulder problem with his dad last week!