ryland_moore

Lookie here

Gib Ledges winter ascent, Drury Falls if it decides to come in this year, Sandy Headwall/NF route on Hood (March)

The only place I see this as an issue Matt, is if someone can't place pro well, makes it up a climb without falling, builds the anchor improperly, then has to hold a fall from the second climber and the pieces pull. But for the most part, you are right!

Oh great, Trask is a mod now? Alright, who's the wise guy that gave Trask the controls?! This ought to be fun!

All in all a great summer of climbing in the alpine with some new and old climbing partners. Road trips were fun filled, weather was stellar, and the rock, well, everyone knows what the North Cascades are like! Can't wait til next summer! Thanks y'all.

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JKrueger gets ropegunman of the year from me. Also Danelle (maybe a lurker?) for letting me talk her into doing many alpine climbs this summer. Muffy said: How can you knock the Sveldts on this board and praise the Fralik's? That is like punishing the chickens when the fox is the one in the hen house! Not saying those bros. are not nice peeps, but they have burned alot of bridges and rubbed alot of people the wrong way!

Sounds like y'all had a fun time! We bailed after talking to a friend who had just come back from the Icicle on Saturday morning and said that it was wet on Snow Creek Wall. (Only thing we really wanted to climb). So went duck hunting on Saturday and Smiff on Sunday. Saw Ben Moon's slide show at a friends house Saturday night and all was well in perfect Eastern OR weather Sunday. Glad y'all had fun!

Well, at least we can get drunk! Greg, I used to follow the Weather channel report until it always was wrong for a period of time and I was never climbing, but driving 14 hrs. round trip for a weekend when I could have been out at SMith climbing. I have been playing with the NOAA Mountain Forecast for the last two years and it has only occassionally been wrong. The weather channel's office is out of Hotlanta (I beleive) While NOAA's is out of Seattle.

I'm trying to hold out, and will not make final decision til manana at 6pm, but 70 % sux for Saturday! Please change the weather report those fools!!!

Bug, if a bear really wants to get you, it will. Pepper spary has been shown to bea deterent and in other cases, just does not work. In my situation, we were in Yellowstone in a BC camp along Shoshone Lake. We had sea kayaked up from Lewis Lake, through the Lweis-Shoshone channel and paddled to our campsite. I had been fishing for Mackinaw all day and we cooked some up. All our gear was hung in a bear bag and we were getting ready to hang another with our clothes that we had cooked the fish in in another bear bag. That is one the young male bear came into the camp. It was me and my girlfriend. He walked around the perimeter of our camp for about 10 minutes. We were down by the lake's edge. He came to wear we had cooked, about 50 yds. from our tent. We were going to get in our sea kayaks and paddle out. As he got closer, maybe 15 yds., I sprayed him with pepper spray. He didn't do anything at first, but the wind, which was at our backs took it right into his face. He snorted and pawed at his face, then took off rather quickly. If you really want to know how to deal with bears in the backcountry, go to this link and click on the TV to download make sure your volume is on so you can hear the commentary. I am sure some of you have seen this one before! Funny Aussies!

Maybe I can talk jkrueger into going, but it won't be until after we get off Snow Creek Wall. Let me know where you all will be....

In keeping with tradition, I asume this will be Beck? Wha happen to the kegs that Beck said he had coming?

More than just motivated partners, vlimb with those alot stronger and better than you. You will learn agreat deal in short periods of time.

bouldering....... Far and away has improved my strength, technique, and overall ability.

Bug not sure how much time you've spent in Glacier, but after spending many summers there, you are taking the JAWS appraoch when it comes to bear attacks. 1) there are very few bear attacks each year in the US. There were more shark attacks in the last few. 2) Most of these attacks were because someone startled the bear, or got in between a bear and cubs. In other words, it appeared to be a threatening position. 3) Pepper spray has worked for me in the past. If you shoot a between the eyes at 40yds. that is charging you, it will still get to you, and maul you before it dies. Also, if you are found guilty of shooting a bear in a national park, expect to go to jail. I just carry pepper spray, have had many bear encounters and never had one attack or even threaten to attack (false charge - quite common). Pansies!

Climbers on this website are! Most climbers I've met are not, but quirky in their own way.

Girzzly bears and Brown bears, from a gene perspective, are the exact same animal. However, brown bears as they are called, are larger becuase their diet consists mainly of salmon during the spring. The Brown bears, typically living within 100 miles of anadromous fish habitat, are many 100 lbs. larger than grizzlies of say the Rockies that feast on nuts and berries and an occasional elk. As a side note, only reason to carry a gun anywhere in a national park is to compensate for your small penis. Guns are for hunting, that is it.

I will take the Anarchist approach to anyone I see poaching. This will include shooting up vehicles, destroying their personal property, and generally just scaring them a bit! Eugene is actually having an effect on me! Seriously, this is a problem down here too. One guy was just arrested this past summer for illegally snagging spring Chinook salmon (Endangered species). He was sentenced to 4 years in jail! The kid that was with him wnet to a juvenile detention center for until next summer. Glad to see the justice system is finally imposing some penalties. Kind of like stealing in Turkey! No one does it anymore!

I wouldn't go with him if he was the only one with you as it wouldn't make any difference if you were carrying one and he wsn't. Since he hasn't had any other training, I assume he doesn't know how to "read" layers, dig test pits, and look at bonding of crystals? How else is he able to make a sound judgement? An Avy forecast? If you are skiing in groomers and not on any exposed slopes, are always in trees and never go over 7,000 ft after the snow has compeltely settled (ie. Summer) then maybe, maybe I would think about going without a transceiver. But I don't own one either. I just pay the U of O co-op $10/year and I can pick one up anytime I like. AT that rate, it will take me 30 years to have spent the same amount on a new transceiver. He should take an Avy course at the very least and be able to make site speciifc decisions as to snow stability, not rely on some forecast that is generalized. I know of a group in Jackson that was skiing on a low avy danger day, and one guy triggered a slab avalanche. He was trhe only one not wearing a transceiver and of the 5 that were buried or partially buried, the guy without the transceiver was the only one that died. My two cents.

Yes, it also happens to be Octoberfest in Leavenworth this weekend, so you can come and drink in the Bavarian Village while waiting for rock to dry. I am not trying to be a party pooper here Erik, I just checked my reliable source, the NOAA weather out of Seattle, the bible for weather in the North Cascades IMHO, and that is what it said. I usually never trust weather reports anyways and I go. If weather craps out, then I adjust.

Isn't snow a form of precipitation? Every time i've been there in winter, the area is covered in snow. I have been there when it has rained to where you could not climb for the day. Crossing my fingers....

I hope this changes!

Plenty o' wymyn at Smiffy Tuftlove fest!

Skiing is both for me. If I want nice groomers and snow bunnies, that is where I go. If I have a long approach or winter/spring ascent up the volcanoes, I would take skis over snowshoes anyday. I am not up there to ski, I am up there to climb, just hate long slogs back to the TH or parking lot that is all. Obviously, you do not ski and wish you knew how.