ryland_moore

Widespread Panic in Eugene Tonight!!!!

I second Caveat Emptor. Really two super hard (for me) hand cracks. The 1st of two is a traversing crack angling up and right with no feet and some wonderful exposer. The next pitch is a step finger crack that then goes into a little roof move up and to the right with the crack going right out through the roof. I cussed the whole way!

Good way to look at it Erik. I'll see ya Saturday after a bout with Snow Creek Wall. Best be bringin' your drinking spurs!

Remember the post last week about carrying a gun in WA state? You should be o.k. Erik! Excercise your right! The FS may not agree, but I will bring some skeet and we can shoot over the creek once we have enough beers. Oh wait, I guess it is BYOB now.

Beck, I find it a great disservice to make it appear that you are taking the lead and taking care of everything, yet are realizing that the event you are trying to put on is too big for even you and a few of your friends . So you send HikerWa as the messenger so that you don't get jumped on as he come crawling back to the group that was upset with his efforts to begin with. Oh, now Beck actually wants our help and input! I will not be contributing anything to your party unless you want me to bring a donated keg up there from TG, if he would even be so kind as to donate one after you burned that bridge. I am sure all of the other campers in the Icicle are going to love a DJ and sound system up there during their family campout. Also, it is Octoberfest uo there. They are having it two weekends back to back this year, so be prepared for a lot of folks who are not climbers to be there. My funds will go to AAC and Access Fund but nothing to Beck. May see you guys around on Saturday evening. Beck, go ask the Mountaineers for some help. They are organized and have all the gear in the world!

Our murder rates are high, but I think the attack on Heston in BFC was a little irrational. Guns don't kill people, people kill people. Mr. Moore is a witty individual and I think his heart is in the right place, but does step too far over the line with some of his antics. For the record, I am considered a liberal in the South and a Conservative in Eugene, if that helps.

Thanks Freeman. Yeah, the most recent AINAM which covers accidents from last year (2002) did not have a thing about Erik's friend who fell at the top of S. But on Cutthroat or the Chilean who fell down the Cooper Spur on Hood last year. Both incidents seemed like they could have provided some beneficial insights and learnings for other climbers.

Tennessee High or Virginia High?

Matt Burns was his climbing partner, not the 28 year old in the accident. Re-read the AP release, Dru.

Damn, that sucks. Any more info? Route they were climbing? How the guy fell?Was he at the top? As a side note, I have been fairly dissapointed with the number of accidents I have heard about in the Pacific Northwest that are never reported in the AINAM. Please, if you are a party involved in an accident, please report it. Many other climbers will learn from mistakes made and may even save a life. My condolences to family and friends.

Yeah, I was working a V4 boulder problem with his dad last week!

Isn't the South Buttress a really long climb? Only a few parties have done it? If this is the one, then I know some folks who contemplated doing it this season that wqe met up on Denali this past spring, but after talking to the first ascent party, they decided to bail on it and do the W. Butt. I think they said it took the first ascent party something like 40+ days? If this is the route, then let me know and I can put you in contact with the folks.

Excellent idea! I am actually suprosed this has not been done before. May be good to contact the regional chapter of the AAC to see about funding and support. I think this is an awesome idea.

No, the K-1000 lenses fit the ZX-M, but since the camer a was stolen with the lenses, it was a mute point. I start over now with lenses.

After having my Pentax K-1000 ripped off last year I was talked into buying the Pentax ZX-M. Same fully manual, lighter, but with an auto wind feature. It came with a lense 28-100mm. and the pictures just do not turn out the same as the Pentax K-1000 with the standard lense. I use a polarizer on it and still it is bad. I think, however, that it is the lense and not the body of the camera? Your thoughts? Trask suggested some excellent quality lenses, but I don't have $1k to fork over on a lense. Other suggestions?

What is the best film to shoot using an SLR? What brand of slide or print film? Speed? What filters do you guys like to use for alpine? For glaciers? Lens size in mm? An Amateur photo guy wants to know!

Was it confirmed that Greg did the squeeze job? Unconfirmed, there were bolts removed up at Flagstone, and the perps signed their names to doing it. Regardless, trail day will be a good event and I expect to help out. If you climb there, you have no excuses. Do you climb there Sphinx?

That's the best one yet, Dru!

I actually agree with Sphinx on this one. I still have friends back on the east coast who are "stuck." They never got out and explored other places, live in the same area they grew up, and call going to club meds in a foreign country, "visiting a foreign country." (No you didn';t, you just sat on a beach in a secure area, never leaving the compound. You could have been in Gulf Port, Mississippi for all you knew!) Anyways, living in other places, states, and immersing yourself in other cultures is a priceless experience that will change your perceptions and outlooks on life. I've lived in 6 states, visited all but three, and travelled in Europe, South AMerica, the Carribean, and most of Central America. Is Oregon or the Pacific Northwest the best of all these places I've expereienced? Defiantely Not. Is it good for me right now? For the time being, it is. If you haven't been out of your own state to live and experience, you are only cheating yourself.

Coolest flower is the elephant's head flower. Only found in the alpine too, making it that much more special.

A Rip off from Talkeetna: Cc.com: a quaint, little drinking website with a climbing problem.

Agree with most posts here. I feel it is an area by area basis. If one can onsight most .10s at smith, does that mean he is going to be able to onsight most .10s at Index, Yos, or Senaca? Doubtful. If you are talking about meeting a new partner and trying to convey to thewm your level, that is how you should proceed. If you've never climbed at the area you are going, then tell your potential partner something on the lower end or say I climb at this level at this area. Ratings are individual and should be treated as such. There are varrying ratings even within a specific area, so if the line looks like fun, do it! By the way, I onsighted V0 in the gym last night!

How did you know we talked to folks at Vivan who told us to go around Vivan to the left instead of right up to the S. Face? However, we descended under the S. Face back to our bivy!

Mister E is smoking crack or has the smallest bladder in the world. You could drive to Jackson and back to Idaho Falls in that time. It is probably 10-11 from Seattle. About 8-9 from Eugene, depending on traffic cutting across Hwy 20 to Burns, OR.