ryland_moore

I used the Frontpoint jacket from Mid-to late May on Denali in '03 and was happy. I had a -40 NF Inferno sleeping bag and was glad I did. You can rent a -40 Feathered Friends sleeping bag, and a jacket for that point if you don't want to shell out $800-$900 on new gear. Intuition liners would be good for your plastics. The Artic Expes come with them, so I didn't need to get a new set of liners, although severl of my climbing partners did for their AT boots as we brought skis too.

Agree with most of the posts. The only reason to add bolts was if there was a really bad fall that could cause serious injury. Otherwise, tell them it is a sport route and if they want to have the potential to Z-clip, go to the gym.

Recreational Darwinism at its finest!

I think if there were any conflict of interest, it would depend on whether or not the actions taken in obtaining permits could be proven that Glenn did this while working for the USFS with the intensions of cornering the market for his own personal gain,. This could be difficult to establish in a court of law, hence why you may see another guide who was not granted a permit, whining about the whole thing. Regardless, it sounds as if this ranger is a stand-up guy who may not pass the smell test in this situation due to appearance on the cover, wrong place/wrong time kinda thing, but legally and probably ethically, did nothing wrong. If the course is a good one, people will let others know and if not then people will definately know.

Alsadair is right. Picture an object when it heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Now if a volcano continues to cool then technically the mountain can "contract." With all of the weight that makes up Rainier, earthquakes can and do occur from the mountain "settling" or "contracting".

Yeah but I doubt Bobby is doing a .13c in flip flops!

Public camping and boat launch are both nearby.

Typically depth is measured from the point below the epicenter (the surface). If this is true, then the earthquake's epicenter occurred above Camp Hazard (due North) at around the 12,500' level. The depth of 0.9 miles would be from this point, meaning that the quake occurred around the 7,700' level, or somewhere near the same level of the Van Trump Glaciers but probably a mile or two into the mountain.

A good alternative route is in the Castle Crags area or Leuthold's Couloir. Both can be done from Timberline parking lot and are fairly straightforward climbs. Avalanche conditions should always be considered, and have fun!

The Gorge if you are lucky, Wallowas, Banks Lake, Leavenworth, and Umptatum Falls for short weekends, and Lillooet, Lee Vining, or Bozeman for long weekends. Like Shred says, come to pub club or just post during the winter. Usually if you get someone thinking about it and there is ice out there, then that can usually convince them to go.

"Oh Jack do talk Thai. Jack talk Thai very well!"

I think the party on the summit ridge ahead of you was that Korean party of two that was so slow. Soon after you passed them, we got behind them. Here's a brief description of what transpired, as Pete was in the lead, Asheley, was in middle, and I was on the end. Pete turns around. "Guys! I can't get around these Koreans and they are moving soooo slow!!!!!" Ash: "Tell them to move over and let us by!" PeteQ: "I did, and they don't understand English!" Ash: "I'll bet they understand this! Hey Dickheads! Get The Fuck Out of The Way Before I Beat You Senseless with My Axe! There, I think they may have understood that!"

Another from Denali's summit as Erden and Crew were heading down...

Here are some photos from you all and Erden approaching summit, leaving summit, and at 17k. Erden is in the Blue and pink puffy and Squid is wearing brown. I think Eddie was wearing a red down parka. I am in all blue with my team.

Kevin, you must not climb at SW very much otherwise you'd know that 1) they do not provide lead ropes either, you must bring your own. This is new for me as every gym I've climbed in both east and west coast provides them. 2)If you have been in SW anytime within the last two months, you would see the new equipment upstairs with more weights and cardio equipment on the way as they continue to refinish the "upstairs."

I drove over 26 Monday and Tuesday night. Monday was really warm and most snow had melted. It was raining hard. Tuesday, more of the same with a lot of rain, but by 5 pm Tuesday, it was snowing hard. Not sure how long it lasted. Sounded like small accumulations.

Name dropping? Do you know Tim? I know alot of Tims. I also know OF a lot of people who climb .13 and .14. It is not uncommon these days. Just becasue they are not pompus high almightys who need the personal attention by getting their names in hot flashes doesn't mean there are not a lot of 5.13 and 5.14 climbers out there because there are. There are more 5.13 and 5.14 climbers out there that do not get recognition becasue they don't care then there are 5.13 and 5.14 climbers that do. Doesn't mean I am name dropping. I like people because of who they are, hence why they are friends. If they happen to climb hard, race cars, or play Asteroids, that is secondary to who they are. I am sure there are plenty of badasses out there who are good climbers and I would not be friends with. Iain, I don't make fun of you because one of your friends is a D and D world champ do I? I think you need a face shot fix or something! p.s. How many pull ups can you do?

I wouldn't call Bariloche Patagonia. It is considered the Lakes District and just east of Purto Montt. The coolest way there is you are down in Patagonia and not travelling by bus is to take the Navimag boat from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, then get on a bus to the Lakes District/Bariloche. Or, you can hit it on the way down assuming you are flying into Santiago. The Navimag boat goes through the fjords of southern Chilean Patagonia where there are no roads. Pretty awesome trip in itself and super cheap. Bariloche does have some of the best crag rock climbing although there are some nice spots not too far from Puerto Natales. Ask the guys at the hostel with the bouldering wall on the outside in Puerto Natales. You will see this place as all buses go right past it on the way into town.

OR Pro all the way!!!!!! Toasty and durable....

I talked to my buddy Tim this morning as he has had a rope hung on it for a while now trying to work out the moves. He said that it is insanely hard and since the crack was bolted so early on, the pin scars are shallow, thin, and flared. Without really small fingers, it seems damn near impossible for the climbers of today. Beth's fingers are smaller than Tommy's hence the ascent. Not that it is easy by any means. My buddy Tim was only able to get up the first 20 feet of it. Could be like Lynn Hill on the Nose with other hardmen struggling to free it becasue of pin scar size? It was really good to see all the bad ass climbers out at Smith recently. Sonnie Trotter, Beth and Tommy, SHarma, and plenty of others have all been in the area, proving that Smith has some of the best climbs for the grade this time of year. Also heard that some of the hardmen couldn't finish another .14a in the area, showing that Smith shows solid climbing grades. Plus, you can't beat the views!

Anyone head to Bend Saturday night for the beer, food, and awesome dealz Moon fundraiser? There was tons of gear donated by Metolius and the like. Plus other cool auctions like getting a Porche for the day, trips, etc. Cool prizes, fun times all for a great cause. There was a guy who was bidding against a friend of ours for a 70m rope. He outbid our friend and turned around a gave him the rope, because he just wanted to give money to Ben Moon's fund and didn't care about the rope Pretty cool!

I never said definitively there wasn't enough snow. I said there didn't SEEM to be. Of course I would always dig a test pit and look at bonding before ever going into the backcountry if the area looked questionable or recent snow fall was there. All I am saying is that it seems that a little over four inches on most slopes is not enough weight to cause an avy. Wind slabs and loaded areas are different but also confined to specific areas. Are you an expert on backcountry travel all of a sudden after your two seasons of skiing? Definitively, you don't know until you go. Let's not turn this thread into a symantics issue on language. A Fallen brother of climbing is gone and it is a sad day.

But, it doesn't appear that it was an avalanche. Did I read the story incorrectly? There doesn't even seem to be enough snow up there for one. It still appears to me that a snow bridge collapsed inside of a crevasse. Not an avalanche at all. No?

Here's a more detailed story, although the climbers were not identified. story Sounds like it was more of a snow bridge collapsing than an avalanche as it sounds like they were in side the crevasses to negoatiate their path. Sorry to hear. My sympathy to friends and family.

Ol' Willy Frist should just keep his mouth shut sometimes. I think that his heart isn't getting enough oxygen to his brain in his old age! As reported in today's Washington Post, in the true spirit of bipartisanship, members of Congress on both sides of the aisle have decided that they will not follow the CDC guidelines, but will instead go ahead and receive their flu shots, free of charge. Your elected representatives still urge you to decline to get flu shots so that others more in need, like themselves, will have an adequate supply. When pressed for an explanation, Senator (and Dr.) Bill Frist, the leader of the Senate pointed out that, during the flu season, Congressional representatives frequently receive large amounts of cash from any number of lobbyists and that it is well-known that money often serves as a medium for the transmission of germs and viruses. As Dr. Frist explained, "There is simply no doubt that members of Congress are, in fact, a high risk group, unlike your kids who come in contact with dozens of other kids at school everyday." In order to further reduce the risk to Congress, Washington lobbyists apparently will also be receiving the shots.