ryland_moore

Went into Olympus on Friday with Chica, MaryK, Pete_A, and another friend from Jackson. Hiked into Glacier Meadows Friday, climbed Saturday but turned around in a complete whiteout, rain, and wind at Snow Dome, then hiked back to the Rangver Station at 9 mile, then hiked the remaining nine miles out Sunday morning. Lot of hiking. I feel we covered alot of distance in the park, but saw very little of the park. Also, anyone know about a huge section of the Blue Glacier collapsing and filling the Hoh River with a large amount of silt? Locals said it has never been this silty this time of year and has been running like that for a few weeks because, "the glacier fell down."

There is a line just down from knickerbocker bridge in Eugene just down stream from the kayaker's play hole as you head across to Autzen Stadium

It's still not Hamm's fault. It is the judges faults. Just because a Canadian and a Malaysian can't grade correctly is no fault to Paul Hamm. Paul Hamm earned his medal in the all-around, was given a mdeal last night (I felt the Russian still had a better routine than Paul), and the Koreans continue to cry like little babies Do people give back World Cup Titles when goals are scored in an illegal manner? I don'tthink so. There isn't instant replay for a reason, the Koreans had their shot at filing a complaint when the score came out, and he and his coaches were too stupid to realize the error. They blew it! Not Paul Hamm!

If you simul climb or solo the majority or all of the ridge, I think the 8-10 hours is reasonable. If not, and you pitch it out, then the 19 hours sounds reasonable.

I would be interested to see how much money the FS spends on salaries for patrols at THs. I would hope that they do not hire extra staff just to write people tickets and that these "ticket writers" have many other job responsibilities. If not, then herein is just another example of the FS spending money to reimburse the expense. If they are so strapped for cash, then this is a very foolish way to spend their tight budgets. Anyone know the answer? Also, in a previous thread on this subject, there was a link to a website that had a hanging card you could put on your dash or rearview mirror that stated you were in the area for purposes other than recreation and were therefore exempt. I have placed this on my car several times and not once been ticketed, including this weekend at eightmile. Could just be dumb luck. Finally, isn't this process being abolished this October?

Also on land. They call it landboarding

Heading up to climb Dragontail and wanted to know conditions on approach at base of Serpentine and descent back down to the lake. Ice axe needed?

An Awesome one I used was called "Hiking and Backpacking in Chile and Argentina". Definately do the circuit in Torres del Paine (DO NOT DO THE 'W' ROUTE OR YOU WILL MISS THE BEST VIEWS IN THE PARK) go to Los Glacieres Natnl Park and to El Chalten to hike into Cerro TOrre and Fitzroy areas. Over on the Argentinian caost, go check out the beach where Orcas swim right up on shore to get seals and sea lions (think National Geographic). Go check out a Penguin rookery on the STraights of Magellan, definately take the NAVIMAG boat up from Puerto Natales back to Puerto Montt. Hitchhike down the Carreterra Astral, the most remote place down there. Go rock climbing and fly fishing in Bariloche. Youth hostels down there rock! There is also a South American Handbook, which can be helpful, but also quite general. Take buses from CHile down to Patagonia as they are cheaper (although with the Argentinian dollar crashing a little while ago, this may have changed.)

Or, for the rock on the BLM land, drive up the Mohawk River and access the backside of the Coburg Hills via BLM directly. No need to cross private property. You can get all the way up to Mt. Tom if need be.

Let me get this straight, you hiked into Triumph Saturday, climbed NE Ridge Triumph Sunday, hiked all the way out, then hiked up into Boston Basin Sunday and soloed W. Ridge of Forbidden and back in Seattle by early Monday morning? You da Man!

Karl, if there are a lack of partners at the bivy site, that is becasue you are staying in the weekend climbers area. If you want to find the dirtbags, go to the Grasslands (Skull Hollow campground). Ask the guys at Redpoint for directions.

Good luck on doing your trip in under a month! I wish you all the best. I think we shopuld start a betting pool. Bets could be made on whether or not they summit their cascades jewels test "hike", actually get a permit to climb Cho "Oye", make it to Nepal, and then figure out how to get to the base of Cho "Oye". With 007 as a leader, how could they possibly fail? I won't even take bets on summiting as I would feel really bad on capitalizing on a possible (likely) death or serious injury. Recreational Darwinism at its finest! Should provide us with free entertainment over the next year though. Kind of reminds me of the guy on Denali a few years ago who came up there to climb solo, had no glacier experience, and refused the park rangers warnings. Although he did decide to carry a 2 x 4, which he carried like a tight rope walker (parrallel to the crevasses). He never made it above 11k, but if he had fallen in, the plank would have never helped him even if he had carried it perpendicular to the crevasses as it had a middle breaking strength of 100 lbs. At 210lbs. with a full pack and sled, it would have been all over.

I am pretty sure Erik and his partner did it a lot faster than 20 hours last year descending the Sherpa Glacier.

Well, this gal wasn't my gal, but she sure was an attractive tele bunny who was helping out Lisa for the climbing season. But back to the original post. Any info. out there? Hope the guy was alright.

The rangers were out "patrolling". They had climbed the S. Face and traversed over to descend the NE Ridge. Specialed, That was you? Damn, we could have reminisced longer about the Fairbanks chica at Denali basecamp last spring! Hope y'all had a good climb.

Anyone know any more details? Had two rangers come into our bivy at the Triumph col at about 1am Sunday morning and then got picked up by a heli there at 5am Sunday morning to be flown over. Initial info. was the guy had broken ankle in two places and other injuries but no other details. ANyone know who this was? A solo climber? Outcome? Hope he was alright.

ALready planning on replacing some of the old with new if it looks bad and cut away excess crap. Are new rap rings needed as well or just webbing? I hear that other descent is fast too, as it was discussed in a post last year or so with specific beta (ClimbHigh?), but it requires two ropes for sure.

What are the pros and cons to using one rope vs. two on the NE Ridge for the descent? Since you can't rap down into the knotch/gulley with one rope, where is the preferred rap direction? We are a party of 2 trying to move fast and light. Benefits to one vs. two ropes and vice versa? Thanks!

I assumed most people did not take spikes late in the season, maybe an axe, because the approach is not too difficult except the moat on the ascent, and by the time you descend it will be all slushed up. No?

Parts of it did, but the local gear shop can fill you in. There are hundreds of climbs up there at different aspects and elevations. It is not like SMith with lines of sport routes in one central area.

If you practice setting a T- anchor with your axe while holding your partner, you will see that it is not impossible. Once you are able to get your partner onto an anchor system and free yourself so you can set up an additional anchor and set up the pulley system, you can actually lift someone with a 6:1 ratio using a Z-C pulley system.

Mount Lemmon in the morning up high is not too terribly bad. Obviously it doews get hot as hell up there during the summer. You can find a guidebook to it in local gear stores. There has been some extensive roadwork going on up there the last few years so see what is going on and have fun!

BlueWater also made a pink harness with light blue stripe in the middle with lizards. That was made up until the mid-90's I believe.

Was the ice tool necessary this time of year for either the glacier crossing or descent down Cascadian?

She knows that if I don't get out soon, my head will explode!