ryland_moore

I will start off by saying congrats to Danielle and think it is a great accomplishment to climb and experience those mountains. As having climbed Denali and Aconcagua, I would not take those experiences back for anything in the world and find it awesome that she is putting her energy into something like this. However, I have a real problem with her using ADD as if it were some type of physical deformity or terminal illness. As having been diagnosed with ADD back in highschool, I can say that yes it does have some attention issues, but in no way hinders my climbing. If anything, I focus all the more. I only took meds for less than a year before a friend of mine died from a ritalin overdose. Since then I have learned to deal with it, which was not very hard after a while, (and feel a little like my doctor was blowing ADD way out of proportion)and my grades were never affected. Danielle speaks on her website like she has been diagnosed with some serious disease or serious life-threatening illness (almost like someone told her she was "special" and made excuses for her at an early age)when in reality, it is not that big of a deal - at least like many doctors and the drug companies have made it out to be. Danielle should just stick with climbing for climbing's sake and forget about whatever ailment plagues her. Being blind and summitting E and the other 6 summits is a huge deal, a female 20 year old with ADD is not, but a cool accomplishment that I'd love to experience none the less.

Congrats bone! So does this mean your Yos days are over and you will now be a plastic pullin', Smiff hoe?

Sounds like everyone behind the slow party who is bitching is at fault. Who cares if they were over their heads? Are you pompous asses telling me you've never been over your head on any climb? And if so, then how the hell do you ever improve? I always try to push myself on harder climbs and try to climb above my abilities and with people who are better/stronger than I am. Screw anyone else who is behind me and refuses to pass, but then bitches about it later. Get up earlier, climb something else, and quit whining like little pussies and look up for a moment and actually enjoy where you are. If not, stay inside at the gym and pull plastic. Good work to the "slow" group and I think it is awesome you are pushing yourselves.

I ran into Eric at a wedding yesterday at Smith Rock and he said he was doing a slide show/video of mixed climbing and alpine climbing from the Canadian Rockies and Andes next weekend. Highlights include a video of his climb of the Emperor Face on Robson. He stated that the night will be filled with "Epic Tales, Humerous Times, and Mtn. Culture." It is 7:30pm on Saturday night at Mountain Supply, 834 NW Colorado St (Mt. Bachelor exit from Hwy 97). He is requesting a $5 donation at the door which will be given to the Ben Moon (www.Moonfoto.com) Cancer Fund. As many of you know, Ben was diagnosed with colon cancer and had no way to pay medical bills. There was a very successful fundraiser last fall at Barcelona's in Bend for Ben, but there are still bills he accrues as he deals with ongoing radiation treatment. So, if you all are climbing at Smith, come down to Bend for a few beers, dinner, a fundraiser for a good cause, and what looks to be an amazing presentation by one of the best alpine/mixed climbers in the world. Ryland Eric and Phillip Pellet on Robson

Thinking of taking 7-10 days off at the end of July for a climbing trip. How's the weather in the Bugs typically that time of year or is it better to wait until later in August? Other suggestions if the Bugs are wet this time of year?

So, is this near Milton-Freewater or is it in Washington? Maybe the pass heading from Pendleton over to Wallowa? Near that little ski resort? I work over in Pendleton and Lostine/Enterprise on a regular basis and would love to break up the drive from Portland!!

Just for the future, 9 times out of 10, when there are high winds down low, AND you have clear weather above, the winds stop at around 10k or so. If you can just push through the lower elevation winds on the S. SIde it can be really calm up high. Just a comment. At least you were outside with beautfilu views!!!

Smith was awesome weather! (well at least to the north of it about 45 mins. was!)

I wouldn't want a bag that light in early May. Maybe if you were going in early June, but it is regularly much colder than that higher up in early May. Your call though. The Millet Everest one sports should not need a special liner or they may already come with them..

Re: Fixed anchors up Denali Pass: It depends! In 2003, there were a ton of fixed pickets you could clip into on the way up. That was late May and I loved having them there. Last year, my roomate summitted in early June after 7 days in a storm at 17k. No signs of any pickets, but they could have been buried after the storm. SO, go like they are not there and bring the gear necessary to protect this section and get lucky if the gear is there. My two cents.

AK, just use regular lightweight polypro from REI for your top and bottom. You will be in this up to 11k or 14k depending on temps and time you will be there. Then adda medium weight layer on top of this. The union suit from Feathered Friends is the best I've seen and all AK vets swear by it. As for boots, look into getting intuition liners to see if the added warmth will be enough.

Yeah, a friend, Kimball used to do it on purpose once he reached the anchors without telling his belayer. Funny expression on the belayer's face when they would shoot 15 feet up the wall!

Yeah, Specialed, a '72 volvo wagon!!!!!

Name the brand and the specific markings put on the shoes by the owner and they're yours. Found around Karate Crack area Sunday night.

She is a way stronger climber then you will ever be. And besides, when is Dru a guy's name? I always thought you were supposed to spell it Drew, like most normal people. But then again, you are a geeky, glass-wearing computer dork from Canada who lives his life through cc.com. Her and Ian are responsible for most of the draws that people rely on in the park when working projects, responsible for all the nice trails you walk on when in the park, and responsible for keeping it a climber's park, as Ian also works for Smith Rock State Park. When you can do something useful with your time at a place like Smith, then you can be sarcastic. Otherwise you just sound like a dumbass.

Sweet ascent and sweet pics! Congrats. Unfortunately, those were my tracks and I bagged the summit on Friday afternoon!!!! Bwhaahhahaahaaa!!!!!!! Just kidding! Good job!

I'd like to reiterate, Thanks Steve and Kris and Kristen!!! You all rock. Good slides and stories as well. Looking forward to the next one!

So I should not have include Smith in that category. I wouldn't classify most of those mentioned as alpine as well. Red Rocks alpine? Yosemite? Zion? Nope......just trying to point out that I don't really see a route as an arrete in the alpine but do at other places mentioned above.

So, I usually equate alpine routes with summits. If something has a summit, then typically I wouldn't call an entire route an arrete, but a ridge, like in Dru's photo. Yes it is two faces coming together like an arrete, but I equate arrete's with smaller features of a bigger picture in the alpine. You can have short sections of arretes in the alpine but the route could also have face climbing, dihedrals, and chimneys too. An arrete is much smaller than a ridge, obviously. WHere it gets tricky is places like SMith or places like the dolomites. Red Rocks, Yosemite, and other big walls come to mind as well.

Most of Cayman Brac is tough climbing, so be ready to lead over 5.11. Most of the climbs are rap in. I have a few friends who have been. For a different spin on things, you can climb Orizaba and only 4 hours away be sitting on the beaches in and around Veracruz. I think it may the only place in the world where you can stand on an 18k foot peak and be at a warm tropical beach all within the same day.

Great article to read! I was up on the col sleeping to do NE Ridge of Triumph the next day with larry the llama and a few other ccers, when two rangers carried over Triumph about 2am and said that a helicopter would be landing in our bivy site at 5 am and we needed to be gone by then. It was Reece and they were headed to pick up the injured climber on N. Ridge of Forbidden. Reece came screaming inot the saddle, spun his little copter aorund and they were gone in a matter of seconds! Glad to see everything worked out well for him. Interesting read too. Not bad for a Mountaineer!

While you can definately get on some decent rock in/around Austin, the music scene is insane! Skip 6th Street and check out Toni Price at the Continental Club. Call ahead, but I think she still plays on Tuesdays. SHe is amazing.

Climb: Wallowas-No name falls, Fall Creek Falls Date of Climb: 1/11/2005 Trip Report: Headed out to Enterprise with my friend on business and got two mornings of ice in. TG helped us with beta and we set off in the morning to explore. Headed up Hurricane Creek TH and soon found Fall Creek Falls. Very wet and brittle and looked like it might need a little more time (although it is probably all gone now) so we headed over to the gulley on the left side of the canyon where there was a nice easy line with several WI2 steps finishing it off with a nice WI 3 half-pitch. We soloed all but the last WI 3 section and it went quite fast. We decided to come back the next morning where there were rumors of ice further up the canyon. We got lost, and headed back to play on Fall Crk Falls. Overall a fun quick outing interspersed with work and excellent weather. I will go back as there seems to be a lot of potential. Thanks to Steve and Dean as always! Gear Notes: Two ropes, screws, tools, poons Approach Notes: easy approach up Hurricane Crk trail - will need 4wd later in season or ski in once trail is blocked - makes the approach 3 miles instead of 3 mins.

I will be in Vegas the 24th-27th of March for a B- Party and will not be playing golf on Friday. Looking to head to Red Rocks. PM me if interested.

Also, if you do not wat to carry another sleeping bag in addition to the SF, use a vapor barrier liner in the sleeping bag or a fleece zip-in insert which will add about 10 degrees of warmth. You could also use a bivy sack over it which would accomplish the same thing. You should be fine in June though.