ryland_moore

Partner scored.

Normal partners are either off climbing in amazing places, just got back and are too tired, or other issues. Looking to do an easy to moderate (5.6-5.8ish) alpine route or cragging this weekend. Can meet at the TH or elsewhere Friday night and have all day Saturday and SUnday Open. Willing to drive. Possibilities could be Triumph, Cutthroat, WA Pass, Squamish, etc. Ridge climbing a plus, simul climbing even better. PM me if interested.

Check your PMs

Shapp, sorry if I came across a little strong. Just that there is no way to open the area just to climbers. He is placing a conservation easement over the property, but public access will only be during the conservancy's tours of the property. So, climbing will still be allowed. There is no ban on climbing during raptor nesting, just an understood one. And yes, the Fender's blue is on top of mount baldy up high like I posted in my original message.

From KGW.com:

Whoever it is, I hope the climber is o.k.

You still climb at the Crux don't ya?

Timmay, How about 2 weeks after l-worth? If L-worth rope up is in September, then it still may be fairly hot early september. Mid October?

Watch out! HEre we go again! Somebody tell Beck it's Dave's turn to plan! Beck you had your chance last year with the Beckfest Rain-a-thon and you blew it!

Shapp, your attitude is the reason why more areas are not open. Assuming that everyone's private property is your personal firehydrant is the wrong attitude. The rock really isn't that great, does offer climbing close to town, and I had no problem only going when invited by one of the regular climbers. I bet you'd feel a little differently if you had your own piece of property where you were having things stolen, equipment messed with, and defamation of cliff and trees, and dealing with tresspassers. Insurance is a serious issue as well. If you know the background of the owners, then you would understand, in this litigious society, what a lawsuit could do to the family if someone fell or was injured. Much bigger issue then saying they should just go ahead and let anyone climb there. Until you actually know what it costs to maintain and police even a small park, which I do, I think you'd better focus on other more important issues. Finally, the owners are not climbers, just his friends and their friends are and he is kind enough to allow some people up there. Instead of turning it into a park, they are in the process of turning it into a preserve, as there is an endangered species of butterfly called the Fender's blue on Mount Baldy. He is doing something generous with the property, it just may not be for climbing. Plus, The Access Fund has very little money and spends its resources on only the most threatened areas in the country. But, I guess you would already know that if you were a member.

MegaMan, Coburg Caves are up the McKenzie as the Coburg Hills wrap around. Do not tresspass as they will prosecute. Find someone who has permission to be up there and go as a guest. Don't be an idiot and try and sneak in. You will be caught as the people with permission climb out there pretty much daily. If you want some awesome bouldering talk to the people at the Crux about the Sweet Home boulders. Plenty of opportunity for first ascents too.

Seen in the parking lot of the hotel during the Springfield Loggers Convention: "Earth First, We'll log the rest of the planets later."

Way to go Mike and Mark! Mike you're turning into a first ascent snob!!!!!!!!!

Or how about an enchantments trip with Colchuck NE Buttress, Serpentine Arrete, complete N. Ridge of Stuart - descending the glacier and back to Colchuck Lake, then heading up over Asgaard Pass and hitting up W. Ridge/S. Face of Prussik? That would be a sweet week-long trip. Ptarmigan Traverse hitting up every major peak on the route? 5-7 days? Props for early season with skis.

Maybe he was in disbelief after looking at your fat-ass friend wondering why he was in a real climbing store rather than next door at REI. It does sound like you are describing Todd and he has always helped me out and is one bad ass ice climber to boot.

Yeah, I think I posted one that was titled Good GF Routes?

Wait until Spring and solo South Side of Hood, then find a partner and head up to Muir to do the Ingraham Direct, depending on weather. Winter is too chancy for Rainier and you could spend your whole time out here in a whiteout. Or ,you could get lucky. Good winter route would be Gibraltar Ledges or Ingraham Direct.

Sahale PEak via Sahale Arm (need to know how to rappel/downclimb or are comfortable soloing 4th class), Mount Adams South Side, Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch (there are others that are just as non-technical), and Mount Hood south side (although prob. not in when you go). If you do not feel comfortable with you and your partner in crevasse rescue then I highly recommend you brush up before you go.

It's been a long time since you've been in Eugene as the Juice Bar moved shop over to the U of O climbing gym. Better yet, Ron opened up an awesome Hawaiian restaurant and the foor rocks!

I saw a bumper sticker for this group at the White River TH this weekend. Kinda wondered what this group was about...

Mike and Co. just ordered me Stubai aluminum crampons and they got them to me fast and at an excellent price. This is the way all companies should operate....

We did the preregistration thing for Emmons/Sherman two weeks ago for this weekend at Sherman and the rangers were very helpful. Sorry you've been given the run-around. See ya up there on the mountain!

I agree with Bill as well. One 30 m. 8.3 mm is what I use and is plenty on Rainier unless pitching it out. I have used a 30 m rope on Emmons and Ingraham Direct plenty of times. I did use a 50 m 8.8mm on Denali with three to a rope, however. I guess you still need to factor in experience level and glacier conditions for end-running, but not at this time of year. Maybe in August up on Rainier you will have to do a lot of end running around crevasses.

Buy one of those finger exercise hand grip strengtheners and keep it in your car. Every time you get in the car and drive somewhere, use it. It sounds funny, but does actually imrpove your grip strength.

I have the Bibler Big Wall and I think it sucks. The opening is way too small (and I am 5'8" 155lbs.) and the zippers are small and bust off easily. I'd go with a wider oepning to get into an emergency shelter/lightweight. If I was in an emergency and needed to get into the thing quickly, I'd probably shred it before even getting in the thing.