ryland_moore

So was Smiffy! I've got raccoon eyes!

There was a previous thread on this. Just go up there and find out. The ridges were said to be clear of snow so the if the couloir is out there are plenty of ways to either side to get around it by climbing 4th class to easy 5th rock. I think your only true obstacle is the road being washed out a mile before the TH.

My buddy Gabe is out there solo right now looking for partners. He'll be out there all week. He will be climbing both sport and trad. Let me know if you need his contact info. You can PM me.

Just made my SO my fiance after 4 years of dating. She will climb at Smith and the Callahans, but would never catch her up in the alpine of on ice. This is fine. We share some interests but not all interests. We have things that bring us together, but most importantly we have things we do separately that allows us to have things we can put our own energy into without our SO. This really works well for us. I agree with Muffy though. If the guy is a Dick, then you can't help that. If he's serious then maybe he wouldn't need to stare at another girls ass at a bar so much.

I trekked around Patagonia, the circuit in Torres del Paine and then on to El Chalten fpr Fitzroy and Cerro Torre. Was there in early fall and had clear weather for almost two weeks with one day of rain/snow in Torres del Paine National Park. No corwds, hiking up into the Valleys with 3,000 ft granite spires surrounding you and not a sole around. Not a single climber in any of the infamous climbers camps like Poincenot around Cerro Torre and Fitzroy, but plenty o' sunshine for over a week! This was late March/Ealr April. Definately worth it. I was spent on climbing after slogging up volcanoes in Ecuador, Bolivia, and Argentina, and was into my fishing and backpacking mode. I don't have anything to compare it to in regards to other major mountain ranges, but want to go to the Himalaya. I was really impressed with the Alaska Range and would love to be in Little Switzerland for a while.

Great Mike! Thanks for volunteering to be in charge and set this up! You're out of school now and exams are over, right! No excuses, Mikey is head hancho on this one! What time?

Lost Rocks is a must. The difficulty is finding directions..... Although I think the internet has changes this secret spot to a destination.

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Climber is alive and well but still trapped 30 ft. down in the "crevasse": Rescue underway climber who fell into crevasse on Mt. Hood 01:25 PM PDT on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 By TERESA BELL, kgw.com Staff GOVERNMENT CAMP, Ore. -- A climber is alive and awaiting help after falling 30 feet into a crevasse below Crater Rock, near the 9,600-foot-level on Mt. Hood early Tuesday, authorities said. Rescuers identified the climber as Jeffrey Godfrey of Ventura, California. An aerial view of Crater Rock on Mt. Hood. (File Photo) "The medical team has reached the victim and apparently he has some facial abrasions and some groin injuries," said Sgt. Nick Watt, a spokesperson for the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office. "They are attempting to pull him out of the crevasse and get him down the mountain." Godfrey told other climbers above him that he was not seriously hurt but was stranded about 30 feet inside the crevasse. Rescuers working to create a pulley system to lift him out feared that the 60-year-old man could develop hypothermia soon. Temperatures are hovering at about 35 degrees and even though Godfrey said he thinks he’s okay, rescuers were considering airlifting him off the mountain as a precaution. However, as of 1 p.m., officials said the helicopter would not be able to make the flight, due to poor visibility. Rescuers -- appearing as tiny dots in the snow -- work their way to the crevasse. (KGW Photo) Godfrey has been inside the crevasse since about 7 a.m., when he broke through ice and fell, his climbing partner told dispatchers in the initial call for help early Tuesday. Rescuers hope to get him out of the gaping hole between 1 and 2 p.m. It's unknown how secure Godfrey's perch is inside the crevasse. Climbers often tie themselves to one another with ropes for added safety in slick conditions, but Godfrey was not tied to his partner when he fell, Watt said. Rescue effort based at Timberline Lodge Search and rescue teams set up a base of operations at Timberline Lodge and also put a helicopter crew with the Oregon Army National Guard Military Air Rescue Team, out of Salem, on standby for help if needed. At about 9:30 a.m., rescuers began ascending the mountain after “scrambling to respond,” Watt said. They boarded a SnowCat to speed up the first stretch of the climb. The SnowCat took the team to the highest point it could reach, before dropping the climbers off to finish their trek on foot. A SnowCat driver shuttled rescuers up the mountain. (KGW Photo) From there, the specially trained climbers carefully began making their way to the crevasse area, according to Angie Brandenburg, a spokesperson with the Clackamas County Sheriff’s Office. They reached the crevasse before noon. Meantime, the Blackhawk crew was on its way to Mt. Hood as of 12:30 p.m., but turned back a short time later, due to poor visibility. Rescuers plan to evaluate Godfrey's condition once they pull him out of the crevasse and decide the safest way to get him off the mountain. They could choose to walk with Godfrey, carry him on a stretcher, or even set up camp and wait out the storm before heading down. Dangerous time of year on Mt. Hood This is the same time of the year when three climbers fell to their death two years ago and dozens of others were injured in what turned out to be one of the deadliest climbing mishaps ever on Mt. Hood. This map shows Crater Rock, in relation to the 2002 accident scene. (kgw.com graphic) A total of nine climbers were swept into a 50-foot wide and 20-foot deep crevasse, known as the Bergschrund, early in the morning on May 30th, 2002. The others were injured while sliding on the sheer ice, tied to other climbers. Rescue efforts on that day also took a dramatic turn when a Blackhawk crew trying to reach the survivors crashed nearby. All six members of the helicopter crew survived, but one person was critically injured. Weather conditions impact rescuers & climbers Crevasses on the mountain often crack open this time of year, experts say, as the warmer weather slowly begins to melt thick ice formed on the sheer mountainside. Also Online More details about deadly 2002 accident on Mt. Hood The military helicopter team is specially trained in high elevation rescues and has safely airlifted several injured climbers off Mt. Hood in the past. But Tuesday morning, visibility was extremely poor on the mountain, so the Blackhawk may not be able to safely fly at the elevation where Godfrey fell. “There’s kind of cloudy conditions up there right now but certainly we can use air assets up there... if we can first get this guy out of the crevasse," Brandenburg said. Sky-8 captured the crash of the Blackhawk on Mt. Hood on live television. (KGW File Photo) KGW meteorologist Dave Salesky said conditions were foggy and cloudy Tuesday morning, but skies could clear in the afternoon. However, if there is a break in the weather, he said the window won’t last long. If rescuers can't pull Godfrey out of the crevasse by early Tuesday afternoon, the rescue effort will probably become much more difficult, as weather conditions grow dramatically worse. Salesky said the forecast calls for mostly cloudy skies with thunder showers late Tuesday and up to four inches of new snow expected in the next 24 hours. Godfrey was reportedly following a popular climbing route through the White River Canyon when he slipped and fell. Mount Rainier rescue Monday night, another military helicopter crew airlifted an injured climber off the north slope of Mount Rainier. But sadly, he died at the hospital a short time later. An injured Mt. Rainier climber is lifted into an Oregon National Guard helicopter. (KING Photo) Peter Cooley, 39, of Cape Elizabeth, Maine, was rescued from the 12,300 foot level of the 14,410-foot mountain. He suffered a head injury while climbing on Saturday, but had to wait two days for the rescue due to his precarious position on the mountain and rough weather conditions. Cooley had been reported in stable condition late Monday afternoon after the rescue effort, but his condition quickly deteriorated and he died Monday night, Mount Rainier National Park spokeswoman Patti Wold said. Cooley's climbing partner, Scott Richards, 42, and rescuers got off the mountain safely Tuesday.

Anyone heard from Iain? Maybe he is out saving another life! to Iaian and best luck to the man in the "crevasse"

Already a thread on this here

Heard this morning that a 60-year old man fell into a crevasse below crater rock? I didn't know there were any that large around there. Initial reports are that the group has not had contact with him since hew fell in and that Clackamas County rescuers and the National Guard would be assisting in the rescue. Hope he is well.

Thanks MattP yes, that is correct, my bad.....

Yes Midway ledge is huge. There are anchors off to the right when you get to the top of the pitch. If she is too scared to do the second pitch (the step across move) then there is an easy and I mean easy finish straight up from the anchors (maybe 5.4 or 5.5) in the "gulley". There is a spot for pro before the step across on the corner under the roof up about 7 ft high. The move is easier than it looks and as soon as you pull up onto the step above the move and out onto the face there is a bolt.

Maybe take her into Tumwater first where multi-pitch stances can be had where there are huge ledges and one may feel more comfortable standing. Then take her to Givler's where the belay flacke is really only 30 or 40 fett off the ground. She may like starting out on the ledge around to the right and back up where there is a tree anchor. If you start the first pitch there it is even a shorter first pitch. ALso, to make her feel more comfortable, it may be nice to have or borrow a set of talk abouts as you cannot here the leadder at the top on when to start heading up the 2nd pitch.

I don't know if a site titled: Urban Legends" with "rumors" in its link title is a reputable source......

I did not read this but watched it come from Stone Phillips mouth. I looked for the dialogue for this written out but have yet to find it. To paraphrase, it stated that once believed to be true was that the family was shipped out of the country during the no-fly period. They stated that the military did fly the bin Laden family (gathering them from all over the country) to interrogate them to see if they knew anything or had any connections with Osama. This happened I believe around the 13th or 14th. It was not on the 11th, as I recall. Then after checks on each individual, interrogation, and questioning occurred, Phillips stated that they were then sent to Saudi Arabia on the 20th. He also stated that the 9/11 commission, after findingmore details out recently, requested another search by the CIA to determine if any of the relatives who were sent out of the country have turned up on the intelligence radar since 9/11 for terrorism acts or are new suspects. None of them are. I am jujst reporting what I watched as my jaw dropped. I was kind of pissed, as I find NBC to be a fairly reputable source, and I now had to question Moore's statements.

Watch or purchase Dateline NBC's, "Michael Moore's Fahrenheit 9/11" which aired on May 6th, 2004. In this they discovered that Michael Moore was in fact lying or as he puts it, "may have gotten some of the dates mixed up." The bin Laden's never flew out of the US until Sept. 20th and all of them were herded up by the govt. prior to that for questioning and to determine if they had any ties to Osama. Nothing more. I am actually glad the govt. was getting all the folks together as soon as possible. What if one of the family members was a part of it? Bout the only correct thing the Bush Administration has done in the last 4 years...

JoshK and others, I love Michael Moore and his tactics of bringing out the truth. However, in his latest book and documentary regarding ties between the Bush's and Bin Laden, I was very dissappointed to hear that Moore got his facts wrong as to the timing of the Bin Laden's flying out of the US during September of 2001. He reported that the Bin Laden family was flying when all planes were grounded. This is simply not true. Let me state that I am a Democrat and cannot stand Bush. But, when Moore knowingly lies or misrepresents the truth for sensationalism, it does nothing for what he is trying to promote. The truth is that the Bind Laden family were not allowed to fly until after the no-fly ban was lifted and then every individual on those private flights were researched by the FBI and CIA to determine if any of them have ever had ties to Osama. After everyone was cleared and allowed to fly, and after the 9/11 commission came back recently, another check was done on every single one of those passengers to see if they had come back up on the radar screen since that time. No links between the bin laden family members who flew out of the US and Osama have risen since 2001 as well. Again I praise Michael for what he is doing, I just think that he needs to only bring out the truth instead of trying to rely on sensationalism and shock-value to get people's attentions when they are not true. If he continues to do this, he will lose credit and people cannot take his word at face value, which before I had no problem doing.

Everyone recs. the standards. That is all I've done. Durrance and Solar. Have fun, it is awesome. Did the traverse pitches and above at night. Pretty cool to descend in the dark. One thing to be careful of is getting your double ropes stuck when pulling your rap. Those cracks love to suck in knots! There is a cheap guidebook (yellow paperback) that you can get at the visitor's center. It isn't very long and if you want me to photocopy some of it for you I can send it your way. Just PM me. The 5.6 second pitch is considered by some to be one of the hardest 5.6 cracks in the country. Don't know if this is true, but I thought it was the hardest cracks I've ever followed. We had 2 #5 HB cams for this and 2 #4 HB cams and it protected well. If you do the DUrrance link the 5.5 pitches (before the traverse) together into one pitch to save time.

Iain, crazy! We headed up to Prouty Point from the Pole Creek TH yesterday and had really nice weather except for a light set of flurries that came for about 5 minutes on the descent. Other than that, it was comfy weather and zero wind. Good job guys on the clean-up! Thank you for keeping Smiff such an amzing place!

Second best shitter I've ever had the pleasure of partaking in...... not too far behind my top shitter choice

Caveat Emptor and The Snaz in Death Canyon

Think if this had actually come out prior to the governor's race! We could have had Norma Paulus as the governor. Not that that would have been bad either. How something like this can have such a huge affect in one's life! I find it ironic that a lot of people who praise him in the past for all the wonderful things he's done are turning their heads on him and are against him. Yes, what he did was bad and wrong, but that still does not change all of the amazing things he brought to Oregon. Wonder what Portland's downtown, mass transit system, and cleaning up of neighborhoods would be like now if he had not been mayor and/or governor?

I'm sure the out-of-state tuition more than makes up for any money he saves on sales tax.......