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Everything posted by Dru
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Bolts next to cracks suck. There how is that for ethics. Funny how ethics change when you get a power drill and things you use to reject as unboltable are suddenly worth bolting. Personally we can all spray all we want but it is the guys out there with crowbars and drills taking action that decide the issue. Otherwise see thread " I admit I am mostly anti bolt" for sum classassassic cc.com spray.
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quote: Originally posted by AJ: Fishstick, free hanging in a sit harness for an extended period of time can also kill you. Blood will pool in the legs and within 30 minutes most people will see their upper and lower values for blood pressure equalize. . So can riding in an airline......for the same reason.... This from the guy who forgot the belay seats for Space Shot. EXTREME DEATH RISK!!!!
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8" diameter. Whew. No "Fargo" scenes here then.
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Some friends did E face of Atwell last weekend. Did not climb last 5m in face of unprotected looseness. The rest was reportedly good solid snow.
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quote: Originally posted by Lowell Skoog: Ok, I believe it. The picture is taken way over on the climber's left side of the schrund, so the face is viewed on-edge, and seems to taper to nothing near the top, even though its really pretty rectangular. You got me fair and square. Now, for the barrage of questions. Tell me more about David Persson's ascent. Did he ski the face? When was this? Who was he with? What else did he do in Washington (and elsewhere) before his death on Liberty Ridge? Who can I contact to find out more? p.s. Feel free to send me mail at lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org if you prefer. Lowell that pic is taken at the top of the 'ice apron' where one can either move L into the couloir or R onto the rock. For some reason we decided to rock climb... this snow cone had to be climbed to gain the rock then we climbed 8 pitches to 5.7 basically parallel to and 100m up the right wall of, the final couloir. David did not ski the NE face. He probably could have though. He did yoyo ski the N face of Shuksan. I send you PM about this.
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I tripped on a bolt once while slab walking and nearly took a whipper...
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quote: Originally posted by sk: quote:Originally posted by Dru: $5 on shelley. thanks dru... it's shelly for future reference So your parents couldn't spell, that's Ok I will pretend like they could.
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quote: Originally posted by sk: quote:Originally posted by Dan Larson: i DON'T KNOW? SOUNDS LIKE YOUR FLINCHING TO ME hmmm does this look familure to any one??? just wondering 1) Dan Larson is Erik 2) Dan Larson is Jerry Sanchez 3) Dan Larson is an insurance agent? 4) DL has a bROKEN CAPsLOCK 5) acid flashbacks to his 'drug phase and killing spiders crawling on his keyboard? 6) Rainier Envy.... 7) all of the above DAN LARSON SUX!!!! DAN LARSON SUX!!!! DAN LARSON SUX!!!! DAN LARSON SUX!!!! DAN LARSON SUX!!!! DAN LARSON SUX!!!!
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Why not explore thge mountain from the ground up instead of on rappel silly. Its not in the guidebook or anything
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Here is the solution use a cheap accessory biner on the chest harness. It wil lkeep your upper body from flopping over backwards if lightly loaded but will break if heavily loaded like you describe.
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: Well, do tell now that we're all salivating. I will inform you for $15 CDN and an ounce.
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try clicking on THIS to see what was censored re:Lambone above.
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Just gettin this thread back to the top it was one of the all time classics!!!!
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Note skis being carried. For bonus points tell me who the climber is.
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whatever happened to Boltmonster?
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: N face still unclimbed. . . . Petrs can spray about this but he doesnt know why its still unclimbed I bet - or who attempted it, how high they got or why they retreated.
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http://www.mattmaddaloni.8m.com/
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thejawgoddess it was matt maddaloni, learn to read....
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quote: Originally posted by sk: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by sk: quote:Originally posted by Dru: $5 on shelley. thanks dru... it's shelly for future reference So your parents couldn't spell, that's Ok I will pretend like they could. i supose I could spell it chelle. it's short for Michelle I will think twice before I ask any questions on this board about Canyon de Chelly then.
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quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: Or Dru. Many have tried but few, if any, have succeeded.
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Maybe this will help you get your thumb up...
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Here is some real spray, Cobra Crack is still defeating all comers, lately Jordan Wright is getting spanked by it. Maybe a crack pitch harder than 14a?
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quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: One thing Dru didn't mention was danger to those below from loose rock. Especially if people are nailing it! You should never climb under anyone aid climbing or multipitching on the Chief anyways. Climbing Basalt is always choss just like at Vantage. Except on the BD the columns are horizontally oriented. even if it is bolted holds are gonna break off all the time just like when its being nailed. Bolts wont change that. good thing the rockfall zone at the base has few quality routes anyways so there will not be crowds there. Are you going to free the Dyke now Peter Pudgy? If not why are you spraying about it? Just to yank Ray's chain?