Dru

quote: Originally posted by Travis: You'd probably been and gone already, but we parked and walked from the landslide Saturday. It's literally 7-10 minutes easy strolling to the clearing. I don't even recall a switchback from that point. Anyway, I can assure you that you made the right choice in changing objectives. We couldn't see enough to find the trail, let alone a climbing route. After bailing early, we drove up East Harrison to look at the Old Settler. Not climbable yet, but the road is completely free of snow all the way. If you don't mind pushing a little bush at the end you could get right to the trailhead. (or bring a hatchet; wouldn't take long to prune it back a bit.) You could drive up the upper road spur? Right tothe end of the road? Cool. I always wanted to do the West Couloir.

I heard it was Matt Maddaloni that is working it and freeing it (has not linked the whole thing yet). Most of the Dyke was bolted in the early 90s by Dean Hart anyways as his version of the Free Dyke that starts up Movin to Montana and ttraverses in above the roof (ignored in guidebooks by McLane for silly reasons). Matts version just takes in bottom roof. Matt is a hard boulderer, trad and aid climber (FAs of Grade VI A4+s on Baffin and in Powell River and 5.12+ trad routes) not just a sporto. Im certain it is not your average clip up. When Dean bolted the upper sections he noted it was getting pretty bashed up from aid climbing. I say better to have a bolt and reduce further rock damage than have huge flaring pin scars like on Rurp Riot which is now more of a "baby angle bash". The Dyke going free does not in any way reduce the cool aid routes available to Squamish climbers anyways. Lots of nailing available if you dig it. Under The Gun still reportedly waiting for 2nd ascent. On that one the bolts are all duct taped over the hanger so you cant cheater stickclip them That said Im certain if the Hubers ever had come to Squamish they would have done the Dyke free on the A3 aid gear. But Squamish is an ethical wasteland where everyone bolts what they feel like, and uses fixed ropes so they can go to the bar at night, and drinks beer and smokes dope. People even continue to aid up classic free lines like U wall if they want to. In fact some people at Squamish even do odd shit like bolt free on lead with powerdrills and drytool up routes chipped by deluded sport climbers back in the 80s. Ethix Shmethix if you can free it without using the bolts I say chop em. Its all good anyways. [ 06-11-2002, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

If you find horsecock booty is that 'tubey'?

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: I discovered a 3' x 7' mound of freshly turned dirt miles from any road . These have been reported before in the book : On the Track of Bigfoot by Peter Byrne Personally I believe a hitherto unknown to science race of giant moles or mound building termites are the most likely option.

How To Aid Up a No Pro Chimney. 1) take a large selection of horsecock. 2) at base of chimney, size up horsecock. if it is big enough, 3) use it as tied off tube chocks in the chimney 4) if it is not big enough, use it as snafflehound bait 5) whjen you have caught about 20 snafflehounds, harness them up using prussik cord 6) send your snafflehound dog team up the chimney and get them to pull you up. 7) eat horsecock (share some with snafflehounds if you used them) and continue climbing. 8) write gapewad TR about your mastery of chimney climbing and how you were scared of cougars carrying all that horsecock around with you.

Trask climbed something I foresee a posting on the Gear Sale : Gore Tex shorts. Cut off style. Great for wowing the ladies. Size XXL for dat homey look. $200.

go Hartford!

Ray I hope you dropped off those kids in an out of the way spot instead of right at the belay... feces fossils are not fun when they become fragrant in the flaming heat.

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: Hey ehmmic, shouldn't you be in Squamish? NO ONE is allowed to be in Squamish if I have to be at work on a day like today

Venison is a benison!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I tried to hook up with Cougar Watcher himself but Crack fubared the plan and I left. Too bad for Crack. He said he is scared of his belayer not being able to hold his fall. I told him quit whining and try ice climbing instead of rock. Might really feel like a solo almost then If he thinks being on the sharp end is bad, tell him to imagine being the belayer and watching the sketchy antics up above. And if an accident were to occur everyone would blame him for letting the old man lead....dude youre fucked if you do or if you dont. Also yelling all the time is hard. I think its best as a party of 3.

So if I read you right you were cliffed out on the headwall below the lake? That is some amazing vegetation on those cliffs. You were up there Saturday?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Any cougars spotted Dru? There was one gaurding the first pitch of AC I spotted him first and went around him. The only cougars I saw were in the bar. Oh I got an invite to go sport climbing with a bunch of girls. Every saturday evening

Denis how did Sky Pilot go?

Just waiting for someone to have to do an emergency spoon-together-for warmth bivi so I can describe their ascent as the HomoScene on Hozomeen.

I found it!!!

Frostbite of the horsecock is not a pretty sight

No such thing as a secret crag. I like to go to "secret" crags then spray about them on the net

Thanks Lowell.

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Dru:

quote: Originally posted by sk: sounds good, do want to be my agent?? I dont pimp men

You could demo them both on a trial basis and report your findings to the manufacturer in return for a prodeal....

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: quote:Originally posted by Dru: The tooth is not Rainier therefore it does not matter if they climbed it or not. send me a picture from atop the big hill only, to get my attention... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=00038 1 I remembered to use short paragraphs a la marek but i fogot that his posting,s use commas instead of aposttrophes damn!

More philosophy: a noted philosopher shares his opinion of what it all means.

The tooth is not Rainier therefore it does not matter if they climbed it or not. send me a picture from atop the big hill only, to get my attention...