Dru

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Dru is just trying to deter ya mike. There are reportedly large walls up there that do not have great crack systems Unclimbed? Bring nutsack or prepared to make sport climbs in the wilderness Shhhh.. there are no big walls and the rock is bad. Really bad. Horribly loose and yet crackless.

quote: Originally posted by jordop: My so called climbing partners are a. moving, b. "mountain" biking, or c. lazy. Need some fresh blood for some black book "projects" for the next two weekends. I've got Fridays off for a while, so anybody with some time to kill and a hankerin to do some out of the way alpine multi pitchin, give me some PM! I climbed all your alpine 'projects" last year but did not report them

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Is there a good trail to get up there? There is good bugs and devils club.

Yeah we got stormed on in the Wack all day long Saturday. At least I got to visit the secret limestone Sporto cliff. I got cliffed out one time in November exactly same spot as you except we were climbers left (west) of the creek. Looks like the snow is melting fast right now! 26C in Chilliwack.

Chilliwack area got snow down to 1000m on Friday and Saturday. A planned trip into the Rexford area turned into a day of cragging at secret Chilliwack limestone sport cliff. I did some flailing and failing on 11c and then on 11b. Dude I was with took 30 footer on a nice 50m 12a when he broke a hold off So Sunday I went to Squamish. Did more flailing and standing on bolts, and penduluming falls seconding, etc, on stuff at Gobsmackin Rock and also in the Cheakamus Gorge. Ate ice cream afterwards. sunny and hot. Back in the Wack it looks like almost all the snow that fell on Saturday, vanished on Sunday. Slesse summit tower W face looks almost totally dry now. Welch s ridge still has some significant snow patches. Chilliwack area alpine seems to have lot more snow than Squamish area alpine does.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The only 3 somes I am interested in is me and 2 girls. Me, a bottle of Jagermeister and a bottle of Rum...

mmmm, bread and fish every day for 6 weeks.... BLEAH!!! water into wine would be good at pub clubs though. i wonder if He could turn instant oatmeal into Gu? and with JC along you wouldnt have to worry about crossing rivers!!! walk on water right. i wonder if it worked on glaciers too?

I betcha Christ must have sucked at climbing, the stigmata on his hands and feet would have caused major grease off and its not like a chalk bag would have helped.

The simplest equation for "trouble" is 2 men + 1 woman, or 1 man + 2 women. "trouble" is therefore odd.

s ridge is pretty solid as things go. figure on about like Shuksan summit pyramid. there is some dirt, small trees and heather for added value.

You might wait a while...production problems..advertised before they were ready...supposed to be out in Feb., now probably not until July or later.

Sadly WPB has been replaced by other sponsors

quote: Originally posted by jordop: Foo is so smart, he knows what I am thinking before it ever enters my mind. I'm thinking that you're thinking that I'm thinking about bolts. Lots of 'em. Im thinking youre thinking Im thinking Im gonna get there first

Dont you mean brown starfish

Talk about a butt shot and puppy porn!!!!

You mean Carlos, Kitty and Chris Boskoff dont use filters?

What is this "respect for the mountain"? You are gonna be safer if you siege and bolt your way to the top a la Caesare Maestri than if you respect the mountain and try it alpine style. Frankly I dont think the mountains care what your attitude is. If they did more bumblers would get the chop and more experienced alpinists like Mugs and Alex would still be alive. Go figure.

Whether you should do it? Or how to do it?

quote: Originally posted by iain: Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it. Iain just for you here is a picture of Mt. Si:

South ridge is a great scramble when dry. Right now it might be more challenging, you would possibly need ice axe and maybe crampons, also maybe a rope and a few pins or nuts or hexes? Cause you would probably want to 4th-class some sections.It usually dries out completely by first week of july or thereabouts. You can see the ridge from Chilliwack so check conditions before you get to the valley from the Tim Hortons parking lot. Right now I would say do the SE face. You climb part way up the W-F gully then fork left and climb on mostly snow right up to below the summit Pyramid, parallelling but below the east ridge on the S face on a big snow band. If you have a burning desire to do a west side route, the west face is probably a better choice. You finish up between the southern false peak and then up s ridge to summit. it goes up a gully sort of, so probably more snow than direct W face. The advantage of Williamson Lake side of things is that you cando Welch and Foley both if you are fast whereas coming up friom the west you probably have to go back down that way too, although I imagine you could maybe do welch and still from the west?

quote: Originally posted by allison: Everything I have read about chlorine would suggest that it's not going to get the business done. I'd love to chuck my water filter in the interest of saving weight, but Giardia and Crypto (which has no cure) both sound pretty unappealing to me. Aqua Mira and other products with the same chemical makeup (chlorine dioxide??) have not been proven yet (to my satisfaction) to be both safe and effective. I wonder if anyone has had luck with those newish squeezy sports bottle filter things. It's like a sports bottle, you fill it up with dirty water, then it goes thru the filter as you drink it. Looks like it would work fine for drinking but less so for making water for other uses, like cooking. Allison I find as long as I stay hydrated I have no problem "making water".

Maybe they will rename it Peace Pipe and have a giant bowl on the Canadian side and mouth piece on the American side?

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Last night I summited Mt Si via the exposed and dangerous haystack route. I wanted to share some of my revelations along the way so everyone would know I kick ass. And I wanted to promote GU (although I didn't have any). I got an alpiney start at about 630 PM. I took off at a near run until about the first switchback where my back started hurting. A fat girl was behind me though and there was no way I was going to let her pass me so I walked pretty fast until I stopped to drink some water. Arriving at the top I skirted some gapers (GUFFAW!) with big packs and made my way for the *technical* climbing. My Hurricane GTX's soaked up all the water around making it increasingly dangerous as I caught sight of the entrance gulley. Looked steep and wicked hard, but I had to do it for Marcel! I began climbing sometimes using my hands, but I made sure that I ALWAYS had two points of contact. I saw the wicked route that Mike Stanton and Ray Borbon sent and thanked god I wasn't on that imposing buttress with the big tree sticking out. I pulled over the top on some tenuous stair climbing like bucket jug rhino holds and arrived on the grass benches. "This must be JUST like Jberg I thought to myself". I pulled over the shoulder and nearly fell as the 2 MPH gusting wind nailed me head on. I stared down deeply into the lights of North Bend and wondered if anyone could see me? I licked my already sweaty palm (the exposure was enormous!) and slicked back my hair just in case. I took stock of all the beautiful clearcutted wilderness and noted several forest service roads I planned on cranking up & down on my ski touring gear next season. I was a bit worried about the descent. I wasn't sure I could reverse my moves so I decided to move down the ridge a bit. A moved down the ridge a bit. It was hairy to say the least but I don't want to pound my chest here. Suffice to say I was gripped stupid! Finally arriving at the alpine benches I traversed back to the saddle between Si and Teneriffe. I had to keep going I knew but I was exhausted and my nalgene (PLUG! ) was empty. The frigid wind nailed me but I kept pressing on and soon found myself at the top of some knob called Teneriffe. It was now 930 and I knew I was in trouble! With all the costly rescues lately I felt that my safety was in my own hands and I had to assume responsibilty for my actions. The best plan I decided was to bushwack straight downhill. This provided much entertainment as the Tika (PLUG ) spread it's soft ambience in like a 2 ft circle around my feet. Tarzan would have been proud! I skirted the edge of civilization and avoided dogs once in the valley bottom. I walked back to the Si trailhead and found the crux of the route was not getting nailed on the Mt Si road by angry drivers. Home at 1139. I was king of the hill for a day. Proudly! Ma Mike, what a great TR. I am glad none of the dangerous cougars known to infest the mountain, attacked you and that you made it down woithout getting gravel in your palms. Did you have to take Diamox up there? Did you see any Poles polishing their polish sausage? Did you have to rescue anyone? Or tell anyone how dangerous their behaviour was? Like smoking weed in a hut or not wearing helmets with their name written on it?

Anybody other than GregM and Mtnphil tried to climb it? I made it all the way to the devilsclub on the shore of Hozomeen Lake once. specifically I am looking for first hand experience with the rock. I have heard cracks are rare and a good rack is lots of knifeblades and RPs and long slings for horns, I was wondering ifthis is borne out by experience. Jordo Peters - I know the question you are going to ask - the answer is Yes.

quote: Originally posted by hikerwa: Scotty, not to harsh on you too badly, but diamox, come on. It's 12K feet. HAPE, I would not expect this from someone like yourself who has been up much more challenging peaks, such as Mt. Si, Tiger Mountain and the like. I am truly dissappointed. and as far as diamox working to alleiviate the effects of AMS, I do not beleive it works as a preventative if taken before going to altitude. although you could use your prescription to Viagra.... snotty just wanted to take drugs and be cool and he couldnt make the score cause AlpineK wouldnt share...