Dru

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Dru, I think you could solve your problem if you just used tape. TAPE IS AID!!!!

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: Dru, I am the Gaper. I am the one who tried to give insight who really doesn't want any. It seem that you really don't want advice as much as you would rather rag on other peoples's answers. Your talk of no more unclimbed peaks is the biggest bullshit ever. If you are not willing to bend over and take it in the ass like my little prison bitch I'll have to track you down and ...... well, you know. You have just boared me. Yes, did you know the word "gullible" is not in the dictionary?

quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: Sorry Dru, I will be sure to use as less "magniloquent" phrase the next time. You might do better grading the new sections of the verbal SAT than sitting behind your computer all day like ODDTODD.com and spraying everyone else to make yourself feel better about your life. On top of that, you still didn't even attempt to give your own perspective, which I have actually admired from time to time on this site. Why don't you actually deal with some of the realities that are facing you as a climber. Who knows, maybe that could have been you below the climbers who fell on Hood? The reality facing me as a climber is that I still haven't sent Royal Flush stupid rock If only tape was not aid. Dude if you are going to tell us all how you are a professional writer maybe you should expect some comment on your verbiage cause it makes you sound like you are spraying if you say you are a pro while demonstrating you dont have the skillz. Anyhow has Climbing agreed to print your article yet or is it going on the slush pile?

Anyone can write and submit but few get printed.

definitely some goodies there

look around on www.tamiknight.com for more on WPB.... (hint look at the acronym)

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: quote:Originally posted by Sleeveless: Statistically, Mt Blanc is the deadliest Mtn in the world, given the Massive numbers I think pecentage-wise K2 is the deadliest. Perhaps you meant Mt Blanc is has the highest toll of deaths? if you are talking % fatalities per successful summiter it is annapurna that is the deadliest not K2. but those Himalayan stats are bogus because they compare deaths from all attempts, to successful summiters. so if you die in basecamp, before ever setting foot on the mountain, you still count as a fatality. they should compare the fatalities to # attempts not # of successful summiters. that would reduce the %death by about a factor of 10. you can find the table of the bogus stats, on the Desnivel website, and lots of other places. [ 06-07-2002, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Check out the July 2002 issue of Adventure Magazine by National Geographic (on the table at the dentist's office?). There's an article outlining research by Robert Rockwell which poses the question of whether "reports of giardia in the wild have been greatly exaggerated". BTW, I carry and use Potable Aqua, or SweetWater ViralStop Solution. I've drank untreated water many times without ill effect, but I wouldn't reccomend doing the same. And I don't drink untreated, or unfiltered, water around where I live: too many beaver, cows, and sheep. It's just shit. Yes beware of drinking downstream of livestock. Beavers, I think may have a bad rep. Incidentally N. american beaver population is skyrocketing right now. no one traps them anymore. pesky little beasts. On giardia, I see the tests Health ministry does on these watersheds...almost all tests report at least 1 cyst per sample but a large proportion of those cysts are non-viable. For instance, giardia is known to be present in Vancouvers watersheds, Vancouver does not filter their water (chlorination doesnt kill giardia, nor does iodine...you need to filter) but few, if any, Vancouver people become sick from giardia...non viable cysts.

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Dru, There are only certain places on 8000 meter peaks on the traditional routes where there are fixed lines. There is never a continual fixed line from base camp to the summit on any 8000 meter peak, and yet people still decide to go unroped. And what about West Pole Brand then Mr. Veisturs?

quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: It bodes the question, Are there too many climbers in the mountains with too little experience or is it just as Sleeveless states, that it is just a numbers game? I am writing an article for Climbing magazine on this very topic. With the easy access to Mtns. like Hood and Rainier and others around the world like Mt. Blanc and Aconcogua coupled with large urban areas and the glorification that the mainstream media has placed on all aspects of climbing, is it that people do not realize the danger of stepping onto a glacier, even if it is a dogleg route like the SOuth Side route of Hood. I am not some Mark Twight scoffing down upon the peopns of the climbing world, just your average weekend warrior who has invested a great deal of time and effort into improving all of my climbing skills, safety and technical. Maybe people do not understand the inherent dangers when it is a bluebird day and the lights of their city can be seen while they chat to their friends on a caell phone. Maybe the proximity of these mountains to major city does not remove one less experienced in climbing from the comfort and security blanket that the city affords and they feel they are still in that environment. What are your thoughts? I am not asking for regulations, but it may be necessary for the general public to learn that this endeavor is a serious committment. Sure, we all have a good time up in the mountains, but most of us are constantly aware of the dangers that are around us. Thoughts? Am I totally off here? I am just going on my 5 years of experience in the Cascades and my two years in the Tetons. I have also seen huge differences between mountains like Aconcogua the numbers of people up there who appeared to have little to no experience and then spending some time in the Cordillera Blanca and seeing practically no one for weeks. So, I agree with Sleeveless that it is a numbers game, but with those numbers come more less-experienced "recreational darwinists". Thoughts? If you start off a post with "it bodes the question" I pity your editor at Climbing Mag. (that sinking ship). Hint look up "bodes" in the dictionary before you practice your magniloquence next time.

hmmmmm... I work in water resources.... Giardia and Cryptosporidium can be found in almost all open water sources in the PNW... in low concentrations. they were first introduced in the 1970's and wildlife, domestric animals and humans have spread them effectively... over 90% of dogs tested in Seattle were carrying giardia in a study in 1994... FWIW something like 40-50% of humans are 'carriers' of giardia in that they can be carrying the cysts and pass them on in their excreta, but never develop the symptoms themselves. The main reasonm you should decontaminate water sources is not giardia or crypto but rather fecal coliforms. And yes generally the higher you go in remote areas, the cleaner the water...does not apply on popular volcanoes obviously, That said I never filter or treat mountain water in BC and I have never gotten sick, even from drinking from the creek beside the Chief trail...actually that trail is so popular I migt not do that anymore. Much better than either iodine (can fuck up your thyroid in high doses, tastes bad) or chlorine dioxide* (can produce low-level carcinogens in dirty water)tablets are the water pump filters, or just boiling the water. *not chlorine as stated above... no commercial backcountry treatments use pure chlorine.. that would be like just dumping beach in your Nalgene... so much for information..back to spray now.

quote: Originally posted by erik: okay guys and gals.... the repetitve name calling ie: someone "[insert name here] sux" over and over and over is dumb. if ya don't knock that shit off i am gonna erase it. caveman exempt Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! 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Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! Erik Sux! please resume spray, thank you!

Yes and beware of the six blank email replies from Fred before he manages to send the real reply.

What about Chimp?

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: I know nothing bout Dru or his climbing. I do know that he seems to be bored with climbing and is looking toward the community for his answers. I gave my answer and now I am waiting to see his name in the books. If he chooses to find the true challenge of climbing, he needs to be a pioneer. Otherwise, he will stagnate and fade away. Climbing is a natural progression. Yeah I would love to see my name in the guidebooks or alpine journals too. In fact I think I even had a dream about that once. I would love to climb with some famous climbers that have done a lot of first ascents like Fred Beckey or Don Serl but cause I am such a nobody I guess I will have to keep dreaming. maybe if I practice hard by climbing a lot of 5.7s this summer I will be good enough to bolt some cracks by next year. It sure is a shame I live in an overdeveloped climbing area where there are no new routes to be done and all the peaks and cliffs within 5 days drive were climbed out a long time ago... Thanks crackbolter for pointing out what a gaper I am. I never realized? Sheeeeit if only I could do a first ascent by bolting my way up some cracks then I might suddenly like climbing again right...

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: quote:Originally posted by AlpineK: Otherwise you will end up being a burned out boulderer with one little stupid rock as the focus of your life. Been there, done that. Royal Flush at Swift Water stupid rock

on traditional standard routes up 800m peaks.... climbers do not rope up to each other because of the endless fixed ropes they are hooked to. Duh. And the trail of corpses wearing West Pole Brand

Royal Flush at Swift Water. Maybe.

bypass var on slesse/ you think they are gonna let you across the border, jah loveth, or what?

Larson if you ever saw Capt. you wouldnt be calling him Pretty Boy. you'd be calling him Sir.

if you are concerned about weight, an 8mm x60 is way lighter than a 9mmx50....

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: I don't understand what you are trying to convey. I don't think you are listening, go to the unclimbed areas which are still waiting for climbers to climb and fucking climb them. That is where you accomplishment will show it's true colors. I ain't talking about a fuckin power drill at a fucking crag! when the new Waddington guidebook comes out, listing 440 routes on 220 peaks, its gonna be a lot fucking easier to find out which routes on those 220 peaks are unclimbed, and go do a new route, than it is to right now. Is that clear enough for you troll boy?

[ 06-06-2002, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

"the main advantage of the guidebook is not finding out what has been climbed but rather what is still unclimbed" - Dick Culbert. I prefer to do my exploring in areas I know have not been visited rather than reinventing the wheel exploring areas that have already been explored. Thanks anyways.

mattp's point about pitch length applies mostly to routes that have fixed belays set. which is not many of the alpine routes around here anyways. more applicable to multipitch cragging routes. much easier to link pitches with 60s than with 50s. more rope drag too though. if you wanna see the difference go cimbing for a week in the alpine with 1 50 and 1 60 and see how many times you would have used the extra 10m but cant because one of your ropes is too short. belays are down time. take time to set up and beak down. lets say you climb a 600m route of easy rock climbing where you can belay almost everywhere. with the 60s you climb that route in 10-11 pitches instead of 12-13 with 50s. SO you potentially save up to 3 belays which could equate to climbing the route up to half an hour or more faster.