Dru

even shorter approach - n couloir of slesse. 18 pitches of snow & ice mostly 55-65 degrees with some short steep WI 3-4 ish ice steps.been done less than 5 times.

he means it has a sharp edge, not a point. if that helps.

I see Tricks rated 13b in the mags? hardest Crack - Indian Creek - No way jose 13d+? hardest crack - USA - magic line, yosemite,14b boogieman, City of Rocks,14a lost horizon, colorado 14a, all unrepeated. i liked how petro gave fiddler on the roof 13a, then did a bunch of other hard cracks and upgraded it to 13d. he did it 3 or 4 times on lead.. i think someone else finally repeated it a year or two ago, there was like a 1 sentence report buried in "small wires" or something...

quote: Originally posted by epb: Looks like RURP has got a groupie. What a stud A hand drilled 1/4" stud none the less. You could truthfully say "what a rivet" instead of "what a stud"...

i think he means petro?????????

ya, i heard 2nd hand this morning that someone died on cascade yesterday!!

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Same deal on Moonlight, guide says crux is .13 onsight, .12d if worked. I never said Suzuki onsighted it (I guess someone else did though) only that he has climbed it several times, yearly at one point, placing the gear on lead. no i think mr jrco was confusing suzuki and hirayama, both japanese right, must be the same guy and on the website he posted, one dude goes even further and confuses the both of them with pete takeda.

sounds like the dude would fit right in in Index! wasn't red dragon the first book that Hannibal Lecter appears in? as well as a skateboard company based in vancouver...

Even if you had to snowshoe or ski in the Center Cr road it would be faster than either bushwacking up to Hanging lake, or canoeing across Chilliwack lake then bushwacking up to the McDonald-Lindeman col. I figure it would take about 4 hrs to get to Lindeman on skis from where you would have to park, going via Centre Cr. Cheam range kicks ass in the winter. best routes to do are w face and s ridge of welch. fast access, lots of vertical, expect like 13-14 hrs round trip from road. but man they look nice today!!!! also the n face routes on cheam look very nice but conditions can be iffy - it never stabilized last year - i was up there 3 times and never went past tree line. north side Cheam Range routes like on knight, stewart etc. are better in spring when you can get to the end of jones lake faster. [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by RStewbone: Dru, can I become an honorary canadian until the next election? I can say aboat instead of about. Its "ABOUT" like "I went to see A BOUT between Holyfield and Tyson." rhymes with spout, pout, snout and doubt. (But you probably say all those words wrong too.) you yankees say "Ah-bat" like "I got bit by A Bat and it gave me rabies" But whats really fucked up is the way you say route "ROWT" and roof, "RHUF". Like I was down at J tree one time and I said I thought this climb was a good route and some dude asked me, "What root, there's no trees up there, that rowt goes up over that rhuf"

So you want us to export some raw logs but not others? actually i read an interesting paper in Nature, i think, a few years back that showed there had been serious decreases in the amount of animal life along British beaches in the 10 years that they had moved to tertiary treatment of sewage entering the ocean and major rivers. The paper hypothesized that there was less fertilization of plankton etc. and it rippled up thefood chain. not that i am defending Victoria I think they should spend the $$ and get some treatment going on. if you ever tried to swim at a beach in east sooke you would know why.

And Pencil Pusher should know how thick "the Pencil" on Polar Circus is!

Rafael - i have done all the main routes in Grotto except for Cousin It & bisexual Piton. (havent hiked 2 hours up to elle et lui). broke some picks on mental jewelry. agree with you on beauty of setting but didnt like the swarming crowds. Maybe you should check out the names of the routes I was mentioning: "Panther" "Spray" "caveman" - ya know?

This guy must have been favored by the freshy gods. 6 feet of pow in the past week!! http://www2.mybc.com/news/bc/fs.cfm?source_id=&id=1041986

Um... for Lindeman the fastest approach is via Center Creek not Chilliwack Lake... actually for Middle too. that Hanging Lake approach is bunk! http://www.bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?rq=Pg&PhotoId=921

"In jan. I saw a woman with her pants around her ankles get hit with a gust of wind and got knocked over. Embarrassing for her. " If you had a camera along you could be making a tidy blackmail income right now!

As I understand it the problem is at those higher grades you have to hang on to shitty holds for longer to place the gear on lead and that does make it harder by increasing the pump factor. Also it slows you down, more moves to make - instead of clip and go you stop, grab gear, fiddle it in, then clip it. Yeah it does crop up more in the teens climbing - for instance, "Lost horizons" 14a crack at Button rock reservoir CO , first and only free ascent by rob candelaria, was felt to be 13+ on TR but 14a when placing gear on lead. It is the same principle as the Salathe Headwall, done the Skinner Piana way as two 13a pitches, and linked together by Huber to be one 13b pitch. Or the big corner on Freeway at Squamish can be done as 2 25m 11b pitches or one 50m 11c pitch. On easier climbs you tend to get more no-hands rests where you can rest while placing a piece. but as routes get harder, you have to either do big runouts or put gear in while not at rests. But whatever anyways, if you think its really 14c after your successful ascent, go ahead and call it that.

Ok to help you out: 1) crack created by Colorado School of Mines during dynamite practice; 2) FFA by Steve Hong, 1980's; many free ascents placing gear on lead; onsighted placing gear by Yuji Hirayama not Hidetaka Suzuki. 3) consensus grade is 13b with pre placed gear and 13c for placing gear on lead, according to Steve Hong and Alan Lester (and they should know...) 4) previous female ascents of Sphinx have included Mia Axon and Lisa Gnade... Gnade placed all the gear on lead on her successful redpoint, saying climbing it with ppg essentially turned it into a top rope problem... 5) so why is R&I spraying so much about Beth's ascent? cause the staff there have the hots for her, and cause she is a majorly sponsored climber who needs the photo andcolumn inches to keep her money flow coming. 6) not to dis her ascent, though. in perspective it is still pretty impressive. 7) Sphinx Crack is so far from being one of the hardest cracks in America. In colorado, yes*. In America no way. just about every major climbing area these days has a 13b/c crack route, most are more poorly protected than Sphinx. * hence to R&I and Climbing it is worthy of spray cause it is in colorado. whereas if you did a 13d crack in utah or arizona or something you might get a one sentence report with no photo in the mag, unless you are chris sharma.

quote: Originally posted by JRCO: I believe Sphinx Crack was created by some drunk locals who did not like the look of the big rock from the town of Pine, so they tried to dynamite it in the early 1900's. Over the years frost wedging has created the crack you see today. As far as Suzuki's ascent, I believe it was on-sight and he placed his own gear and I don't think any one else has freed the crack while placing gear. I live ten minutes from the crack and most people I see on it use it for aid climbing. There is a lot of erroneous info in this post but I dont even live in CO so I will let a local correct it. sorry to challenge your beta JRCO but you should check out some guidebooks and stuff before you type.

Hey RStubai that paragraph is the opening post run through Babelfish: English->German->French->English. hee hee.

"the sad thing is soo many of my friends are now gone, due to the lifestyle that i am now appraoching." The lifestyle of being drug free, or of being a climbing bum, or what?

chizled holds. what a great designer 5-finger pocket right in the middle of this otherwise blank section, and conveniently located for posing while clipping the bolt. not that i ever even been to farcil rock...

the book would be a bestseller though. maybe they could drag krakhaur along too.

"chisel" rock?

you forgot to say "This is BIGWALLBIGBALLSROCKY", rocky. and maybe you should have said "hehhhehhe" too. oh yeah & for Dwayner: This one is RURP. There are too many stupid topics more thus maintaining, as on significant: what is your large wall of favourite? Do not declare me more, why it is to so good and what was however the good part of the rise, ego, as soon as large Masters wall to hear would like to think itself that you are. I would declare you that completely on many large walls in my lifespan, however me, with to be granted people to thus intend to make us - you. RURP had spoken [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]