Dru

Oh, my pt, 5 above, where i said "Chase" I meant "Squilax" and neither of those pillars was in on 12/31.

The Stoke was fat when we drove through on the 31st. Looked like some good ice was in just north and east of town up many of the drainages. To the West of town Gap Falls etc was fat and there was significant ice further west near Craigellachie. Up at Rogers pass most of the ice is in huge avvy paths but there is a conspicuous flow just east of the mouth of Smart Creek on a gneiss bluff - looked like a 3-pitch WI4, with some thin spots,where the only avvy hazard would be walking through the trees from the approach.

Kelowna is 1/2 hour drive north of Skaha/Penticton, for you WA climbers. If you can find a copy of the 1986 CAJ, the article "Bikinis and Baby Oil" mentions some ice climbing in the Okanagan Valley. In general there is not much ice that I know of there. You might visit the www.skaha.org website and send its webmaster, Sean Dougherty (also the guy who wtrote Selected Alpine Climbs of The Cdn. Rockies) an email - cause he might know of some Okanagan ice. If you find out anything post it here. I think the nearest reliable site is in Revelstoke though, and that's at least 2 hrs from Kelowna. you could probably drive to Marble Canyon in the same time.

So have they been replaced yet, does anyone know?

Since pope is not jumping in on this one I will also mention "heinous" cause it sounds like Anus (that means you Anusclingon) and "monodoight" which sounds a hell of a lot like "mon ol' twat": especially if you are French. "Eh Bien Pierre, reeach for ze 'einous monodoight!" hee hee.

bolts get stolen all the time. smoke bluffs homeowners chop them off burgers and fries every spring. robin barley goes on chopping rampages at skaha several times a year. somehow they always reappear. i think LUCKY was a bit over the top in the original post. im not a fan of it (except where justified like on DDD ) but one should always anticipate the possibility that bolts may vanish and plan accordingly. at vantage, where holds or even whole routes disappear/collapse with great regularity, some anchors vanishing does not seem too noteworthy in the greater scheme of things.

Every time I go within 10 km of Index the rain starts. Maybe this spring i wil take advantage of some high pessure systems. I know that I can expect Index 5.8 to be Squamish 10b and willplan my leads accordingly. At least with Caveman belaying me I know there will be a soft landing if I crater!

It seems the difference between Mountaineers and CC.commers is that the mtneers swarm the TRs and the CC.commers swarm the bars! Speaking of which I hope you are all psyched for some heavy drinking at Lillooet Ice Fest!

The term vegetablebelay seems to be a veritable bugaboo! I forgot to mention "freshies" in my original post. I think of a little timmy's telethon kid lisping "I want da fweshiez for Kwismass!" and start laughing.

I like the "controlled flail" where someone is groundfall distance out from their pro and shaking like Elvis, then they start to peel off, chuck a dyno, catch it, slide off, re-establish, and beached-whale onto a ledge, all the while babbling "oh my god take take oh shit oh no!" and the belayer is either sleeping or mumbling "You can do it bro, looking good!"

Chuck said : "he's telling us a tale of some past epic and said "I wasn't sure we were going to get down". The airhead chick blurts out, "did you get down?", to which the old crusty guy responded, "No, we're still up there"." nice! [ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

What do you think it is? I chuckle every time I say "bumbly". "manky" is a good one too. So is "booty". Fred Beckey has been known to reduce an entire cabinful of climbers to uncontrollable laughs by saying "Snafflehound, huh?". "RURP" is also kinda amusing if not ludicrous.

Jon and Tim kick Thanks for letting us spray on your site guys.

it was the grinch.

The one Rodchester mentions is La Esfinge (The Sphinx). Where Leo Houlding accused Sean Isaac of being an "Aid Climbing Rapist" for drilling a rivet ladder on a FA.

La Esfinge and not much else developed yet to my knowledge. Try checking back issues of AAJ and High Mountain Sports.

no, but 1) wash your bag2) dry it out with a tennis ball in the dryer to keep the down from clumping3) if all else fails take your bag to REI and warranty it for having lost its loft

Will, did you consider falling off to graphically show them the dangers of soloing?????

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=26&t=000018

quote: Originally posted by Copperhead: I pick up the mountaineers monthly rag at their clubhouse, and use it to determine where their hoardes are going to be in the backcountry at any given time.and plant a few land mines the day beforehand? or you could show up in a USFS shirt (I got one for $5 at Value Village) and collect a special "large group permit fee" from them.

save the headless turdle.

"we built cairns at every belay" - what, like you took a dump or what? follow the feces fossils?

congrats chucK is the first one to mention weed which will ensure that this thread never dies

popular topic just like Muir on Saturday. maybe if we get some discussion of weed in it it will go on for 20 pages too!

maybe she just wanted to pick up her trash like a good girl, instead of littering the wilderness?