Dru

Monster Truck Rally at BC Place the same weekend as Ice Fest! This is gonna be a tough call!

quote: Originally posted by king of freshies: sexual chocolate Is this a non sequitir or some twisted statement of your love for pope's avatar?

"Steve Koch (who's on his way to completing his "Quest" to ride the seven summits) " ooh that 5m long strip of glacial ice on Carstenz Pyramid must have been a real blast. Or if this is the one he hasnt rid yet he better get there fast before it melts!

quote: Originally posted by hakioawa: 151 rum. Its light, mixes well with sweet stuff and can double as a fire starter! you know you are having an epic when you have to torch your drink supply.

So - you are going to carry in some alcohol to the hut/bivi/whatever to enliven the evening. What do you take? I discount beer since even the good stuff is mostly water & not worth the efort to carry in. Box wine bladders pack down good to carry out but again are mostly water. Maybe for spending 2 weeks in ahut but otherwise no. So for best alcohol-to weight ratio you should carry in some of the hard stuff. The question is, what? Scotch is good straight but I always feel a bit sacreligious if you have to mix it. I have tried Drambuie and it is Ok but my 2 favorites at the moment are Rum and Jagermeister. Both are good on their own (straight) or can be mixed with just about anything including sports drinks like Gatorade if thats all you got. But I want to hear suggestions from others on what you all like to Also you can carry in thses fluids in a spare Nalgene then use it as a water bottle when it is emptied.

if it wasn't for the constant TRing deeping wall might form up fat enough to be led. If you tred it you are part of the problem not part of the solution. now im going to powell river to pay homage to big walls! 420 out of here!

I understand your hair envy baldy.

Hmm I havent seen curves like that since I dated your sister!

Avalanche Forecast till Jan 17 from www.avalanche.ca WEATHER: We can expect relatively stable weather across the coast range over the last few days, as a ridge of high pressure offshore has been deflecting moisture to the north. Scattered amounts up to 10 cm fell in some regions with temperatures cooling to reach –10 by Monday morning. Not much change is expected through the first half of this week, with the exception of a few scattered flurries. SNOWPACK: Last week’s rain event followed by cooling has resulted in frozen surface layers below treeline, pretty much locking everything in place. At higher elevations that escaped the rain crust, up to 80 cm overlies surface hoar from early Jan and possibly rain crust in isolated areas. Recent wind effects have produced slabs in alpine areas, but these appear to be bonding well to underlying surfaces. Although stability trends are improving, low confidence exists at treeline where a variety of layers and interfaces exist from the last 2 weeks.AVALANCHES: No significant avalanche activity has been noted since January 14th.FORECAST OF AVALANCHE DANGER UP TO THURSDAY EVENING (JAN 17)ALPINE: ModerateTREELINE: ModerateBELOW TREELINE: LowTRAVEL ADVISORY: With stability trends improving, it might seem tempting to forsake good terrain management because the snowpack is strong. This is never the right approach. Although it may be more appropriate to enter bigger terrain features this week – this should never be done without a careful approach from safe terrain, collecting and analyzing snowpack information to make an informed and conscious decision.

Oregon Jack?

[self righteous] Instead of Tring something you cant lead you should lead something you can [/self righteous]. I find TRing ice does nothing much for lead ability in that the lead is all about having the stamina to put in screws while on TR it is much more like you are soloing and you never have to hunt to find ice good enough for screws. Also TRing tends to see many more climbers on the same chunk of ice like at Marble you see "8 dogs on 1 leash" whereas you see parties of 2 or 3 at most on lead routes. So the bashing does occur.Also the issue of TRing on two long ropes "bell ringer style"at Marble means if someone pitches off near the bottom they usually deck anyways!! Not to mention the swarming crowds are at risk of getting smacked by ice chunks. I haven't strictly TRed ice in 5 years now* so I can preach from my little corner of abstinence. * I did put a rope down the dihedral last year to recover gear after getting scared when trying to finish and having a root I was hooking break off and nearly send me whipping. And then TRed through that section once rope was down. but i tried to lead it first...and only 2 of us climbed it... so,

take a look at the 4th class west face chimney. you can see it in this photo: it looks like winter fun. not enough snow when we were there in November 96 or whenever it was.

So you drink Rainier on Rainer, and Sam Adams on Adams, and get Baked on Baker. what do you do on Hood? Where is Mt Weinhard? And what would you get on top of to qualify for drinking a Bowen Island Blonde?

Williams has had relatively lots of winter ascents. But maybe not the 5th class routes on the east side. i hear those have lots of heather and turf that would freeze up good.

I hope you paid your powder tax fee at the border!

In Serl/Kay guide Shreddie is the "unclimbed ice dagger" located in the deep slot right of the Rambles. It was climbed just after Trevor Petersen died and was named for him. closet Secrets takes the ice flows to the left of Shreddie up into the 'closet' and then out the left side and can't be seen from the road hence the name. Both got FAs in the winter of 1995-1996 like a good proportion of the other stuff on the Duffy that wasnt done in the 80's.

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Great Trad Route name I've ever encountered? Easy! "North Ridge of Mt. Stuart". It's witty, clever, and to the point. That would be a better route name if it was located on Ingalls Peak, to confuse people. Like there is a route called "The North Face of the Eiger" on Alps Rock in J-Tree.

I bet the Plum is mostly juice right now. Thomas - what Matt said. I would check out the Cheam range if I was you & looking for climbing- although that said it looks like they got freshies to 1200m or so.

Ok I wake up early. Got up at 11PM once for best conditions! Lycra - do bike tights count? I wear them climbing sometimes too. Beer - I actually have declined on large quantities of ber and gone to bed early in the past in order to climb hard the next day. 5.12 and WI5 - on TR once or twice, lots of flailing. Tape - is aid. Smokes - save lungs for the good stuff. weed - see smokes. This is the good stuff. health food - i do sometimes eat tofu, sprouts, veggies etc. yet i always eat big grease fests when climbing since i need the fat to stay warm. beer gut - 32 inch waist does not seem to qualify. if I had an "ale appendage" maybe i wouldnt get so cold when climbing. train for climbing - only if forced to orbored. i did do a bunch of calf raises before the rockies and biceps curls holding ice tool. but i prefer the biceps curl holding a beer so I think that is about 4.5 +/- out of 5 just call me r2 d2.

"Tape? Tape is aid." - Eric Hutton.

"shreddie" and "closet Secrets" are at the Rambles and the former at least is WI6 the latter is multipitch WI4 or 4+ I think?. some easy route.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I am working on moving into a new place. Once I am settled and all I want to guzzle beers New place - Osama type cave with chipped sport routes on walls, beer cellar, grow op and cave bear skin rug near fireplace.

"The Original Fish Hotline" at Cheakamus. Named after an ad that used to be played before the forecast on the Environment Canada Weatherphone. Somehow hearing someone say that they "just redpointed the Original Fish Hotline" makes me every time.

The do you tape your hands questions - those people are not Robots. They are Bumblies. You know, huge tape gloves when they are going to climb Diedre which has no hand jams on the whole route just finger jams. also seen climbing in party of 4 with 1 leader, 3 followers and everyone wearing an 80L pack full of watermelons to eat on Broadway ledge.

On New years Eve they were checking all cars entering the town, but not any cars leaving the town. The bars are all in town. Go figure. I like to get a room & then walk to the bar anyways. Walking back rom the bar is usually the crux unless robot tendency prevailed.