Dru

"it doesn't have to be in to be in anymore" -Barry Blanchard c. 1992.

Hey VT, Gibraltar had "just come in" on the 30th, looked like it had ben in for 3-4 days. Left side was fat and blue, center- right side was kinda chandeliered. Not many abalakovs and not yet beaten on. Yeah I guess sun did in Kitty Hawk cause like I said, some guys told us they did it on the 23rd.

Best: offer of free beer from Terminal Gravity Worst: caveman making 350 posts in one week to scoot by me and take the #1 poster title belt.

So did anybody make any New Years climbing resolutions they feel like sharing?

in the sauna in the acc clubhouse in canmore, they make you sit on a towel so you dont make an asshole print on the wood seats. im sure poop and dwayner gave each other lots of sauna sausage prints. where was sexual chocolate? I bet he's sorry he missed out on a potential 3-way...

i wanna place wands on wicked wanda.

I was gonna guess Dan Larson but I guess not....

To contradict VerticalTurtle, I heard that Kitty Hawk was in, cause we ran into some guys in the hostel that had just climbed it, the day before he showed up. Maybe it fell down since then or something but we did hear it was in and people were doing it. Also even though Mixed master is not in, the Blender is in (see Seans guide) and someone did it.

i heard the lever on the 360 can unclip your biner from the screw if you clip the biner facing the wrong way?

The crampons are kick ass. I really like them. but look out cause the Antibottes SUCK!!!!! I have trashed a pair in only 7 days of climbing on them. The attachments are mickey mouse and the sheet doesnt fit tightly to the crampon but is always getting pushed down the internal points when you walk on hard ice or rock. look out MEC here comes a warranty.

i was there and i can add that gibralter falls is in. best ice on the left (and most parties) chandeliers on the very right (that i avoided with sketchy verglas rock climbing with a tied off hand placed spectre for pro). my tick list: 22 - Cascade and junkyards23 - Bridal Veil (Panther had a gushing hole and Wll Gadd on the M9 next to it)24 - Snivelling gully. ran into Pervertical Turtle in the hut that night.25 - weeping wall left. hollow, hollow, hollow... my first WI 4 lead 26- "rest day". coffee and Canmore.27- Bow Falls28- 25 people in Grotto so we did some WI3s at Heart Creek29 - simul soloed Sinatra Falls and spent 2 hrs trying to solo some m5 corner up above it. got sanity and backed off.30 - Gibraltar wall. road in is very icy, 2wd ok , low clearance sorta Ok, but you might want chains if you dont have 4wd. i only went off the road once in my subaru 31- kicking horse. pretty nuts, lady killer, essondales all busy so we hiked around for 3 hrs looking for waterworks and later realized we were in the wrong drainage. drove to lillooet1 - texas creek, lots of thin smears. no texas 2 step. rambled up a side creek on wi 2 ice and dead logs. I love ice climbing. 2 weeks of it took an inch off my waist and $270 out of my wallet. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Came thru Lillooet New Years Day and tried to climb Texas two step. it was not in. honeyman had a big hole. so did spray creek falls. lots of ice in in the fraser canyon but warm temps are collapsing most of it as we speak. where is the week of -10?????????

So I am looking through my ice guides checking for routes to do. I think there is potential for a cc.com tick list. so far I have: Panther Falls - IcefieldsSpray Falls - BanffCaveman - Haffner Creek and of course the famous "Beer climbs" in yoho.

"The Reagan years were a disaster for our forests, cutting and shipping raw logs overseas." USA is threatening Canada right now cause you want us to ship you raw logs....... you gonna protest that one too Fairweather?

Mary XXXmas would be a good name for a porno starlet or a route at Vantage.

quote: Originally posted by mtnrgr: I confess I went to Vworld last week. My only climbing in WA has been at Ex 32/38, and I sport climbed. I've looked at Rainier for 2 years now and my high point remains the Paradise ranger station. Why do I pretend to be an mountaineer? I suck. But even though I sport climb by nessecity, I will never wear spandex tights (I don't think they make spandex that could hold my massive ass). I will never be a skinny, wussy, number chasing gym rat. I will still build my trad rack, until I relize my dream of being in the Kascade Trad Klan. Someday I will go on an expediton and climb something truely big and hard. Mtnrgr, sounds like you are gonna be making your expedition to Big Lou....

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Classic Crack is 5.8b if you toprope. 5.8c if you lead it hehehe what about if you layback it beckey style cause you dont know how to jam? 8d+ then!

"your girlfriend", dream on. you should change your name from the shadow to the Gimp.

quote: Originally posted by jeffers: how about this one? http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jeffers_mz/vwp ?.dir=/J.+San+Juans+Sept+2001/1+Cow+Creek&.dnm=36+Pinnacle+Wall.jpg&.src=ph&.view=t&.hires=t I call it Pinnacle Wall, about 1400'. There's a better one around the corner to the left, twice as tall, but the planned 200' rap to get to it turned out to be more like 400' and I didn't have enough rope... maybe next year. :-) Pinnacle Slab, maybe. take some crampons and dirt hooks.

FWIW Dan Savage recommends velcro restraints as rope can cause rope burns or cut off circulation. maybe you should get some 2" "seatbelt" webbing. [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

"Rant and Rave, or Piss and Moan over gear" - this thread is pretty appropriate!!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: to this: will gadd is a bastard that doesn't share his pictures like he should. see the picture at http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/Conditions.htm [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

to this:

i have m10's and it is like having guy lacelle attached to each foot. m10s are for ice gods. maybe with my m10s and quarks i will be able to lead wi 4 off to therockies in 16 hours now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this time Saturday I wil be rapping off something with the light of my new TIKKA shining away and a bottle of rum waiting all happy like back at the car...