goatboy

I assume that rap line you drew is the same approximate area of the 4th class ascent route recommended when the couloir has melted out?

Here's a picture from mid-July about 5 years ago. Check out the difference in conditions on the N Face of Buckner! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/298Forbidden_E_Ridge_053.jpg[/img] Compared to this year's early August conditions: [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/IMG_3098.jpg[/img]

That looks like a great way to do it. In the past, I've been tempted to ditch my boots, ax, etc. at the start of the E Ridge, and return that way via E Ledges, but I think I like the way you did it. Certainly descending the way you did is scenic and less stressful than the NE Face. Question: Did you descend the couloir proper, or did you rap down the 4th class rock to climber's left of the couloir? I have never been that way (climber's left) and wonder what it's like. Nice TR and good work!

To hug, the mountain....to envelop....that mountain To hug, the mountain....to envelop....that mountain. Why do I do it? Because I'm in love. [Note the wry grimace at the very end...]

Also, I find Orbit to be more sustained and a better climb than Outer Space, PITCH BY PITCH. Though the amazing handcrack pitches on OS outshine any single pitch on Orbit, overall, Orbit features better and more sustained challenges for the 5.9 leader, in my opinion. Also, it tends to be a lot less crowded, further adding to its appeal.

I find the routefinding to be more challenging on Orbit the first time you do it than finding protection. Especially the dihedral pitch (might be pitch 4 or 5 I think) where you exit the dihedral and step out to the right around the corner... Not intuitive, really.

Lovely photos!

So, I've never heard of this route having sections that are truly "vertical" (i.e. 90 degrees steep). Comments?

I go to Joshua Tree (or a mutually-acceptable alternative) for the week of Thanksgiving every year with a core group of good friends/family, for the past 12 consecutive years. It is a great annual tradition. We deep fry turkeys and buffalo wings, drink a lot of Tecate, and grovel against gravity, monzonite, and the sands of time. I look forward to it as an annual tradition. This year, we are swapping it up a little and going to El Potrero Chico.

You are PROLIFIC in your wild, remote trips, Tom. Nice work.

Awesome!

call north cascades mtn guides in mazama!

Yeah - I am not at all obsessed with that particular list, but it does stand out as a point of prominence in the basin (for which the basin, and an enormous glacier, is named) and having passed by it twice en route to Buckner.... it kind of made me want to take the time to just go up there once. I have seen a million photos of Boston, but not nearly as many FROM it. Two cents.

The beta below is very helpful - we ended up dropping down to the Curtis stupidly and having to climb a huge scree slope 1000 feet or whatever it was to get back on route. NB on the approach to the base of the Chimneys: Do not take the trail down to the Lower Curtis glacier but get on the gully that veers up and right off the main trail after crossing the first talus field. The good navigation points are a sketchy 50 degree snowfield to traverse to get to an equally sketchy moat linked to a loose class 4 step up to an awkward rap station off the tree. Then continue to a knoll with 2 superb bivy sites (would have been ideal for us), traverse another talus followed by a snowfield and a moat to get to the base of the so-called “Boulder” (currently wanded). The gully begins to the right off “The Boulder” and one could spot a 20 foot, brown perlon rap sling we set up 80 feet up off the base. Watch out for the loose and airy class 4 sections!

The party limits at Triumph are much smaller... like just a few parties at a time (which is great, in my opinion). Sharkfin Tower is a really great objective up there but not as straightforward to approach this time of year when the standard gully has melted out... Mixup is fun. Anyone here climb Magic Mountain? I am sure Boston peak is a forgettable pile of rubble, but maybe worth climbing just once?

Outstanding!!! Nice way to beat the heat I guess, high up on the breezy snow arete...

Would you recommend it, or did the loose rock and runout sections detract? Would you do it again?

Matt, NICE WORK! Great photos, too Goatboy - ("Bugaboo Steve")

No helmet for daughter this time, huh?

Great - thanks for the info.

Your questions are very specific and hard to answer -- but generally, a lot of the "30 pitches" are simulclimbing ones, so it's hard to compare it to a 30-pitch route at a higher grade of climbing. There may be snow along the way, there may not ... 2-3 liters should be ample, and I bet you can refill off of the glacier or the Upper North Ridge shortly before you begin either one.

Hello, I seem to recall a post awhile back bemoaning the status of the BC road leading to the Chiliwack drainage - something about it being grim, currently. I can't seem to find that post, however. Any recent reports or a link from anyone? Thanks, GB

That's a fast time car to car. Nice work.

I was up on North Early Winter Spire the previous day and am sorry not to have gotten to see Fred. Will post TR for that trip soon. Thanks for the story, MattP.

True, but only for a few more weeks or so until it melts out...