goatboy

Some are more infinite than others.

Trip: The Elusive "Thumbtack" (below Chair Peak) - The Seldom Climbed Finite Spur Date: 12/25/2009 Trip Report: My wife and I were intrigued by the recent reports of good conditions on Chair Peak, and with no specific plans or family needs to attend to on Christmas morning, thought we'd wake up early and take a look at it... Conditions were lovely and firm on the boot track walking in, passing by open sections of moving water and hoar-frosted trees. It was somewhere in the mid to low 20's F, I would say. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1459.JPG[/img] We were buried in dense fog, especially on the steeper slopes climbing above Source Lake, and we wandered aimlessly through the mist for awhile, second-guessing our routefinding a few times...but eventually to our delight, we burst out into brilliant, cystalline blue skies! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1466.JPG[/img] Chair Peak rose up above us, looking to be in good condition. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1477.JPG[/img] Alas, it was later than we wanted to get started, so we made a new plan: To climb the coveted and elusive Snoqualmie sentinel which Beckey calls "The Thumbtack": [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1475.JPG[/img] As you can see, the formation showed little to no evidence of prior ascents, so we were thrilled with our good fortune. Eschewing the ropes, crampons, ice screws, MLU's, and other tools that murder the impossible, we committed ourselves to the daunting ridge which, for lack of another idea, we named "the Finite Spur." [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_14901.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1494.JPG[/img] Arriving breathlessly on the summit, I declared, "Gentlemen... that's as far as I can take you!" before realizing I was all alone on the remote and windswept summit. I knew that I needed to marshall all of my attention and focus for the descent, with limited supplies (other than the Ziploc bag in my pocket full of over a pound of salty, smoked Smithfield Ham from Virginia). Safely back at the base, I embraced my beloved wife and enjoyed the frozen scene before me on this perfect Christmas morning. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1503.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: We carried all kinds of stuff...didn't need it though. Ham is helpful. Approach Notes: Follow the usual maze of boottracks to Source Lake and above towards Chair Peak. No flotation required!

NE Butt looked good from the valley just below (by the so-called "Thumbtack" [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1477.JPG[/img]

Is the image you posted above considered to be the "left hand start" or the "right hand start"? Seems to me like it starts in the "s couloir" (which I understand to be the right hand start) but then veers off to the left?

Please elaborate on how the PMR arguments are specious.

Is he the one in the foreground?

This might be better located in the North Cascades forum, along with the other inquiry about Gunsight.

Got this in the mail today: December 14, 2009 Dear Valued Customer, Spot LLC is dedicated to providing the highest quality and best performance products to our customers, therefore, Spot LLC will be conducting a voluntary return on any new model SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger ™ (SPOT 2) purchased since October 1, 2009. During recent testing, we discovered that some of the new SPOT 2 devices might not meet battery and messaging operating specifications. We highly recommend you return your product for replacement at your earliest convenience. Please visit www.findmespot.com/exchange for complete details. Replacement product will be available in early 2010. Spot LLC guarantees we will exchange your product free of charge and send your replacement unit when product is available. This notice does not affect the original SPOT Satellite Personal Tracker (SPOT 1) devices. Customers can easily identify the unaffected SPOT 1 product as it is clearly marked as the SPOT Personal Tracker. The operating condition does not apply to any other SPOT products. Sincerely, The SPOT Team

The piezo ignition is just extra junk to carry and pay for, in my mind. Wouldn't you carry a lighter anyway in case it fails? Also curious about Dane's question about increasing efficiency on the Reactor. The thing is ridiciulously fast and efficient, in my experience, more so than anything I've ever seen. Maybe you have a "lemon," Dane? And why would you use it for three years if you hate it so much? Curious, curious... My review: The Reactor is outstanding. But I have heard of folks asphyxiating themselves by using it in closed spaces. So be careful with it. It's a killer!

GunRunner

How steep was the route in these conditions?

Mine were stolen high on Mt Rainier a few years ago, from high camp.... totally lame and a pain to hike out without them.

Thanks, Malcolm! I am a total brewing rookie so I will have to do research to even understand your advice, but I appreciate it.

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Yes, you need to get across the river somehow. boat?

Hmmm, I'm in agreement with Off White: "Backer" (rhymes with Green Bay PACKER.) Not Bach-Har (rhymes with Jean-Luc Picard)

Hey folks, Update: So I'm now working on brewing my own gluten-free beer using sorghum instead of barley. Planning to make an IPA. Any feedback or advice is welcome. Also, if anyone is a brewmaster and wants to help, let me know! I am also hunting around for a large (30 quart) stainless steel pot to brew in, but the ones I'm finding are like $80 and up. If anyone knows of cheaper ones - or has one to loan me for the first batch - let me know! Thanks again, Goatboy PS - thanks for the offer for more info, Applemaggot

The SELECT book has actual useful topos of routes, though obviously fewer routes overall. Probably the best choice for a single trip for newcomers to the area. Also: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2248357;page=unread http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2248357;page=unread

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2248357;page=unread I was there just a few days before this happened, and did note how close the "family picnic" area was to the base of a huge limestone wall...

I'm sure I have some stuff I can contribute. I also want to point out, at the same time, the liability of giving someone USED climbing gear of which we do not know the history.... I like the intention behind your project here but also think you might want some structure around what kind of things make the cut, and what doesn't... Know what I mean?

Sounds great, thanks!

I wasn't able to be at Fred's show but still want to buy some of these posters... what's the plan?

Can't make the show, but if anyone is willing to get me a few of the posters, I'd be much obliged. PM me if you're going to the show and are willing to pick some up to bring back to Seattle. Will provide beer as thanks.

Condolences to friends and family. What a sad day. I think it would be great if folks offered some tangible support by buying some of his amazing artwork, much of which is about the Cascade Range. I intend to do so. http://www.seanmccabestudio.com/pages/landscapes.html

Cool. Great to see so many fundraisers on behalf of Index. By the way, has any Northwest climber had his name misspelled more often than Fred "Becky?"