goatboy

I went to the site and there was no guidebook listed -- is it this? http://www.elaho.ca/selkirks.htm

Fabulous light sweeping across the larch tree!

Hey Lisa, I met you up on Liberty Bell once I think -- nice work on picking a good wintry objective!!! Nice photos. Any panoramic, summit shots of nearby peaks (like that BIG ONE just Northeast of you???)

two bootied stoppers????

While I agree with the premise of wearing a helmet, i think this is a simplistic comment to a much more complex inquiry that Bala is making. Maybe he was wearing a helmet, maybe not, but such a fall precipitates a more thoughtful response than this. Bala -- I'm glad you're well and that you're pursuing input from your community regarding the collective experience in climbing after falls. I have had several and would be happy to share with you my process of returning to climbing if you like --- PM me at your convenience, - Steve

Maybe someone already said this, but in the original TR you ask what's different between the two images...it appears to me that a cornice released on the photo on the right??? John mentioned Forbidden N Ridge at 5.0 as the easiest route, but aren't the E Ledges considered 4th class?

Snowy!

Hey Bala, Sorry to hear about the injury. Hope everything turns out to be okay for you. Best wishes and patience in the recovery process. - Steve

Hey Gene and company, Thanks for the cautionary post -- I could have been more clear -- my intent is the same as yours, to point out to people better options than the scary boulder you are warning about. The anchor I built is about 50 feet or more ABOVE the scary, poorly-anchored one you referred to -- well past the dead tree, as my original post says. I am glad that this topic is getting some attention, because I agree that the dead tree, and the poorly anchored boulders near it, are not the best choices. Breaking the route into 5 pitches, as my post states, gives you some much better options for final anchors at the top. Hopefully, people will continue to enjoy this great route and manage it safely and appropriately for themselves, and for other parties in the vicinity. - GB

Climbed this route in lovely conditions this past weekend. We ended up breaking it into 5 pitches, which alleviated any of the concerns about the top-most anchor: 1) Cocaine Connection (kinda exciting for 5.7, I thought -- some of the bolts seem to be farther right than needed, forcing you to leave secure featured climbing and go out onto pure friction just to make the clips....) 2) Rejoin the Regular RD route and climb a long pitch to a big ledge 3) Climb through the chimney and belay on top 4) Up the flaring hand crack and belay about 50 feet or so above it (total pitch about 100 ft)on low-angle ledge 5) Climb up easy terrain about 50 feet past the dead tree, where there are abundant anchor options (Huge,well-anchored boulder, or nice cracks) I enjoyed this route so much more than I had in the past -- maybe it was the easy climbing under lovely blue skies on a crisp fall day....

Okay, thanks a lot for the info.

....so, 3 hours for me! Thanks for the info...

How far is the approach from parking area to the Baker Seracs?

Looking at this photo makes me mad. I have failed to climb this route 3 times. The first time, I went up there with two others and the weather was threatening, they weren't psyched, and we climbed the lovely West Ridge instead (which was a very good route). The second time, it poured down rain on us and we never even attempted to climb. The third time, I got all the way to the chockstone itself before a fast-moving lightning storm rolled in, lit up the basin in a wild display complete with hail and high winds, and we bailed... I hate the idea of going back up there to try again, but hate the idea of failing three times worse.

Word.

Nice job and thanks for the pix and conditions report. In reconning this once (it was not in shape at the time -- bare and snowless, in fact) it appeared to me that this route makes for a fairly short climb before gaining the ridge crest... Is that true, and do you have any pix of the formation showing where the route goes? Thanks!

Hey Gaston, Nice work -- not only with the climb, but with the typically-eloquent and enjoyable TR. As an expatriate, it must be rewarding to accomplish such things on domestic soil; and Tasha sounds like a bad-ass. Question: How come your pictures is all broked up? Also, while I was inspired with the entire TR, I was especially moved by this line, as I remember talking with you once about the dubious but clear benefits of coaxing a pig up to Colchuck Lake (to eat):

I'm opening a new consulting business and need a graphic designer for business cards, brochure... Any recommendations? I would like to support a local climber or someone from the community if possible.... Thanks, Steve

I think I have to contact this guy.... I need shit like that, even if it's stolen....

Yeah -- and what the heck are "waterproof bags?"

Fantastic!!!

Could you explain the correlation between S Seattle and why it's definitely stolen gear?

There's no way of knowing where he got the stuff. Easy to assume it's stolen. I think we're all angry and paranoid about meth-heads ripping off stuff, but not every person selling gear they're unfamiliar with is a thief. Having said that, "ice shoes???" It sure seems suspicious. Someone should send Big Lou down there to S Seattle....

I don't understand the definition and process of deferral. Can someone explain that one a bit more clearly for the layperson?

Maybe it was the same group of Mazamas who managed to overtake every single campsite at the Sahale Glacier one particular night in July? None of them were terribly nice to look at, however...