goatboy

Moderators: This thread isn't in spray because______________________...

You are a sick but great man, Gaston.

What the heck does that mean?

So Roy, you got banned at a site, get reprimanded by one of the moderators on THIS site, and then keep blathering on and have the audacity to ask other people to grow up?

I actually bootied one of these things once up by Colchuck once... thought it was an ice ax with the head cracked off, but looked it up and saw that it was called a "firn tube" in Europe (implying that it's used in firm snow)... Still have it. Never placed it once... sure is light, though!

The colchuck glacier route is easy (if snow conditions are accommodating) but I bet getting there is the biggest challenge right now. Long way up to the lake once the road closes... Overall, a simple but relatively long winter outing from road to summit...

The last crack appears to be the "Generic Crack?" Gets notably harder around those "pods" where it widens up... so sustained and strenuous! Nice photos...

Since the OP stated he was scared out of his mind down-climbing Hood (presumably the S Side route) then perhaps Leuthold's (with the length, relative commitment for someone not comfortable down-climbing, and the possibility of falling snow and ice) may not be the best choice for someone looking to learn skills well within their comfort zone. The SW Couloir on SEWS is great in May when the road opens, as is the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck.... not sure what's in good shape at this point in the season, given the relatively low snowpack...

....I don't remember being married as an essential step towards being a father, especially in Oregon. Congrats to the new mom and dad.

Stuart is not generally considered to be on the West Side, even if you're coming from the Palouse! It's definitely an East Side climb, with corresponding weather differences on the (usually) dry east side.

Billcoe, let's say that the FS agrees right away with your suggestion, and people are expected to behave "just as they would in Europe." Who do you call tomorrow morning to arrange your rescue from Mt. Hood? I suspect Europe (kind of large continent for such a generalization, but I'll go with it for the sake of argument) MIGHT have more options available to it than Mt Hood does for privately-arrange helicopter rescue... or do you know something about private heli-rescue operators in Oregon that I don't? Thanks for the insight, Steve

Here's what I wrote in the comment box at the end of the survey: If this is an attempt to garner support for requiring people to carry MLU's, or otherwise require any sort of increased stipulations to climbing Mt Hood, then I want to voice my extreme disapproval with that plan. Let climbers regulate themselves, and do not even consider introducing litigation that dumbs down climbing to the deficit of all involved. Oregon has precious little alpine climbing terrain available, please don't compromise it with a ridiculous response to an ill-informed public outcry. Better to ban driving to Mt Hood than climbing it, statistically speaking.

the link is now dead. Strange post. hoax? inside joke?

I'm about to send my shoes to cascadecobbler.com in Mazama. Support the locals! Great work, quick turnaround, fair price, and over the top customer service.

Thanks Jon!

What's the application process? Is there a link to a formal application, or an email address? I can forward this to some folks with that info.

Thanks Jon. Still hoping to get a hard copy of the actual book if at all possible. Thanks!

I've been asked to write a review of the new Smith Rock climbing guide and am waiting for my copy to arrive from the publisher but it may take them awhile. If anyone in the Seattle area has a copy that they could LOAN me for a few days or a week so I can write the review, that would be very helpful. I am not looking to buy a new copy, since I have one coming. I just need to borrow one for a little bit. If you're able to help me out, please send PM. I live in NW Seattle but could meet you at your convenience. Thanks in advance, Steve

If your goal is to anger and upset or embarrass the guy (revenge), go ahead and out him in public. If your goal is to warn the populace and make future partners safe from him....a simple internet flameout isn't going to really meet that goal. If your goal is to actually help him, then talk to him directly. Getting him to recognize and change his behavior is the best way to meet goals 2 and 3. Good luck. And it might be useful for you to comment what you take away from these comments and what your plan is -- and what you might do differently in the future?

The Grande Jorasses?

True, TomTom... ski sticks are aid. The Finite Spur has yet to see a free ascent, in fact, though strong parties have attempted it with neither hammer, nor ham. Rangers from the National Pork Service have been inquiring as to the style of the ham and wondering if in fact it was well-done. Note: As of this evening, Mountain Locator Bacon(s) are not required, though many of the readers from Oregon are clamoring for such enhancements to culinary alpinism.

cc.com flavor of the week - the mighty Thumbtack! I challenge any of you to improve on the style of this majestic and visonary route. Critics are saying, "[the Finite Spur is] so modern, yet so classic... how can a single climb encompass so much history, while still impelling us all into the future of alpinism?"

Some are more infinite than others.

Trip: The Elusive "Thumbtack" (below Chair Peak) - The Seldom Climbed Finite Spur Date: 12/25/2009 Trip Report: My wife and I were intrigued by the recent reports of good conditions on Chair Peak, and with no specific plans or family needs to attend to on Christmas morning, thought we'd wake up early and take a look at it... Conditions were lovely and firm on the boot track walking in, passing by open sections of moving water and hoar-frosted trees. It was somewhere in the mid to low 20's F, I would say. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1459.JPG[/img] We were buried in dense fog, especially on the steeper slopes climbing above Source Lake, and we wandered aimlessly through the mist for awhile, second-guessing our routefinding a few times...but eventually to our delight, we burst out into brilliant, cystalline blue skies! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1466.JPG[/img] Chair Peak rose up above us, looking to be in good condition. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1477.JPG[/img] Alas, it was later than we wanted to get started, so we made a new plan: To climb the coveted and elusive Snoqualmie sentinel which Beckey calls "The Thumbtack": [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1475.JPG[/img] As you can see, the formation showed little to no evidence of prior ascents, so we were thrilled with our good fortune. Eschewing the ropes, crampons, ice screws, MLU's, and other tools that murder the impossible, we committed ourselves to the daunting ridge which, for lack of another idea, we named "the Finite Spur." [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_14901.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1494.JPG[/img] Arriving breathlessly on the summit, I declared, "Gentlemen... that's as far as I can take you!" before realizing I was all alone on the remote and windswept summit. I knew that I needed to marshall all of my attention and focus for the descent, with limited supplies (other than the Ziploc bag in my pocket full of over a pound of salty, smoked Smithfield Ham from Virginia). Safely back at the base, I embraced my beloved wife and enjoyed the frozen scene before me on this perfect Christmas morning. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1503.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: We carried all kinds of stuff...didn't need it though. Ham is helpful. Approach Notes: Follow the usual maze of boottracks to Source Lake and above towards Chair Peak. No flotation required!

NE Butt looked good from the valley just below (by the so-called "Thumbtack" [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1477.JPG[/img]