goatboy

Sidehilling for what feels like DAYS through snow, slabs, rock, scree, talus, and football fields of heather....not really effective to rope up for any of it, though, as I recall....the views of the Southern Pickets from that traverse are mind-boggling.

Here are some details about the deceased and some sad info about how he died trying to shelter his wife from high winds and the storm. Condolences and best wishes to the survivors. SEATTLE TIMES LINK

Please move this TR into the Alpine Lakes forum. Thanks for the conditions report.

Great photos and nice beta for others. The descent off that thing is brutal... I would estimate the crack you climbed to be more like 5.9 than 5.10 -- great jams the whole way and not quite vertical -- but certainly sustained and in a tremendous position! Nice work!

Hmmm, I've never been up there but it appears to me to be two chains connected with a single rap ring in the center (kind of tilted to look like another chain link). True?

Thanks for the TR and the conditions report. Having climbed this route a handful of times over the past decade, I have a hard time envisioning conditions in which ice screws would be useful (at least when the road is open!) Anyone ever do this one in spring conditions where the ice would actually take screws (rather than just being firm snow or thing ice over rock)???

What did you climb???

Fingertrip? Traitor Horn??? OPEN BOOK???? Is it hot or cold? If hot, maybe try a north facing route..... If chilly.....south facing...... That's all I got unless you offer more specific questions.....

I am drunk in Leavenworth....you????

I find it hard to imagine that of all the folks who have slogged up there, that he is, as the article states, "the first to fall into the crater." Anyone?

Apparently, Winter has not yet quite decided to release her icy grip on the northwest..... Here is the latest from the National Weather Service looking ahead to the coming cold front: Special Weather Statement SPECIAL WEATHER STATEMENT NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SEATTLE WA 1010 AM PDT THU APR 17 2008 WAZ001-503>519-181200- SAN JUAN COUNTY-WESTERN WHATCOM COUNTY-SOUTHWEST INTERIOR- EAST PUGET SOUND LOWLANDS-WESTERN SKAGIT COUNTY-EVERETT AND VICINITY- SEATTLE/BREMERTON AREA-TACOMA AREA-ADMIRALTY INLET AREA- HOOD CANAL AREA-LOWER CHEHALIS VALLEY AREA-OLYMPICS- EASTERN STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA-WESTERN STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA- NORTH COAST-CENTRAL COAST-WEST SLOPES NORTHERN CASCADES AND PASSES- WEST SLOPES CENTRAL CASCADES AND PASSES- 1010 AM PDT THU APR 17 2008 ...UNUSUALLY COLD WEATHER IS EXPECTED FRIDAY THROUGH EARLY NEXT WEEK.. A VERY COLD UPPER LEVEL LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM MOVING SOUTHEAST FROM THE GULF OF ALASKA WILL MOVE INTO THE AREA FRIDAY AND WILL LINGER THROUGH EARLY NEXT WEEK. THIS UPPER LEVEL LOW WILL GIVE QUITE COOL AND UNSTABLE CONDITIONS TO THE AREA FRIDAY THROUGH THE WEEKEND. WHILE DRIER AIR WILL BEGIN TO FILTER INTO THE AREA LATER SUNDAY INTO MONDAY...TEMPERATURES WILL REMAIN UNUSUALLY COOL FOR MID TO LATE APRIL. AT THIS TIME OF YEAR...TEMPERATURES IN THE LOWLANDS TYPICALLY RANGE FROM LOWS 35 TO 45. ..AND HIGHS ARE NEAR 60. LOW TEMPERATURES ON FRIDAY...SATURDAY AND SUNDAY...WILL GENERALLY BE IN THE 30S...WITH THE COLDER LOCATIONS FALLING INTO THE UPPER 20S BY SUNDAY. HIGHS WILL BE MOSTLY IN THE 40S FRIDAY AND SATURDAY. A LITTLE WARMER CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED ON SUNDAY WITH HIGHS NEAR 50. THESE TEMPERATURES ARE MORE TYPICAL OF EARLY TO MID FEBRUARY. RECORD LOW MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES ARE POSSIBLE ALL THREE DAYS. TEMPERATURES IN THE MOUNTAINS WILL STAY IN THE 20S AND LOWER 30S. SNOW LEVELS FRIDAY MORNING THROUGH SATURDAY MORNING WILL AVERAGE AROUND 1000 FEET...AND MAY FALL TO NEAR SEA LEVEL IN HEAVIER SHOWERS DURING THE NIGHT AND EARLY MORNING HOURS. ANY SNOW THAT FALLS IN THE LOWLANDS IS UNLIKELY TO STICK...EXCEPT BRIEFLY ON CARS AND GRASS. THE MOUNTAINS AND CASCADE PASSES WILL SEE ACCUMULATING SNOW FRIDAY THROUGH SATURDAY...WITH ACCUMULATIONS NEAR 1 FOOT OVER THE 2 DAY PERIOD. STRONG HIGH PRESSURE DEVELOPING OVER BRITISH COLUMBIA SUNDAY INTO EARLY NEXT WEEK WILL ALLOW DRIER AIR TO FILTER INTO THE AREA. DAYTIME TEMPERATURES WILL MODERATE INTO THE LOWER TO MID 50S MONDAY. NIGHTTIME LOWS WILL STILL BE QUITE COOL FOR THIS TIME OF YEAR WITH THE COLDER LOCATIONS BELOW FREEZING THROUGH TUESDAY MORNING. FROST...WITH FREEZING NIGHTTIME TEMPERATURES IN PROTECTED AND OUTLYING AREAS WILL LIKELY CAUSE PROBLEMS FOR ANYONE WITH SENSITIVE NURSERY STOCK...ORNAMENTALS...OR VEGETABLES THAT WERE PLANTED EARLY. MONITOR THE FORECASTS FROM THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE CLOSELY THE NEXT FEW DAYS. THE FOLLOWING IS A TABLE OF RECORD LOW MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES FOR FRIDAY THROUGH SUNDAY FOR SELECTED WESTERN WASHINGTON LOCATIONS. APRIL 18TH APRIL 19TH APRIL 20TH SEATTLE 45/1967 47/1975 49/1970 OLYMPIA 48/1973 48/1961 50/1972 BELLINGHAM 47/1973 48/1969 49/1972 FORKS 47/1970 48/1999 48/2006 HOQUIAM 47/1960 46/1955 49/1985 Link here: NWS Site I've lived in the NW since 1992. I've seen colder, stormier winters. I don't recally too many springs that felt more wintry! I have to say it's kinda refreshing and invigorating to think of all those glaciers and watershed still deep in snow....but at the same time, I'm personally kinda ready for some warming weather and dry granite....

Post!

Line

One

Another

Hey Dane, Sounds like your "panties are not in a bunch" about dirt biking in the Coulee, but you are kinda bunched up when it comes to trashing "vegitation" (sic) and making trails.... Guess what? That's what the dirtbikes actually do. When you "bet most will take it the way it is offered," what do you bet? Based on the stories offered so far, better make it a small bet, cuz you're gonna lose. Maybe you could bet your bunched-up panties??? As for climbers picking up after each other and other user groups, I agree with you and am all for it too.

And in related news: Darwinism at Work

Sounds like you're describing a scenario where you're belaying directly off your harness, and you as the belayer create some of the dynamic properties that you're describing. If belaying a 2nd directly off the anchor then shock loading could have a bigger implication on the anchor's integrity....while not necessarily jerking the belayer off of the ledge.... Note: Something I see ALL THE TIME is people clipping into an anchor with a daisy after leading a pitch, bringing up the 2nd, and then belaying them out for the next pitch while still attached solely with the daisy (which is not meant to hold factor-2 lead falls)....an easy mistake to make!!!

I noticed that these Harness Packs -- not a bad idea, but I wonder about the actual usefulness of them -- are on closeout at Metolious....Anyone actually use one???

Must be available soon???

Can't simmer with it, huh?

threee......two.......one........somebody explain it all over again now......

Pink, Sounds like you're the one that's not sure if this thread has been done before...did YOU use the "handy dandy search option?" That's a rhetorical question, so you don't need to write something inane in response, unless you can't help yourself...

What's a yosemite draw???

If you want to use the garbage bag technique, try "compactor bags." They are VERY tough and durable!