goatboy

I've biked it. Kinda sucked for some of the sections going up (I remember pushing the bike for several sections at least) but was glorious blasting back down again...

Nice of them to let us know I guess....

http://pics.ericlondon.com/displayimage.php?album=65&pos=3 Not a whole lot there, but enough to still be a glacier. This was easily one of my favorite climbs, right up there with the west ridge of forbidden. Word on the street is that Forbidden is over-rated.....

Fabulous performance!

Nice work! They don't ticket up there anymore, I don't think, since the hated NW Forest Pass is no longer required at that TH. Correct me if I'm mis-informing, those of you who might know more definitively...

The pretty princess sez, "I'll be happy to make you a good deal on a pointy stick anytime, GB." Huh, like this?

Now HERE's a timeless topic: Which approach is best for a 1-day push in the Enchantments? Many say approaching via Colchuck is best due to starting so much higher....this is likely true when Aasgard is all snow and you can glissade (safely!) back down it. Once the snow is gone, and maybe even when it isn't, I have always believed in the Snow Creek approach due to the Bomber trail that you race up, even if you're starting lower...

I see your point, Tom -- but does the article that came out answer your questions about this incident much better than if it said an "undisclosed number of people are stranded on an undisclosed location on an undisclosed route, with undisclosed gear." In the end, it provides just enough info to raise a million questions & invite speculation. And, are you suggesting that the "unknowledgeable media" DOESN'T decide for themselves what to edit out of their stories? Or do you think that they included all the facts that they had, minus the names?

These news reports give you just enough information to make very little sense. Where are they on Spire Point, exactly, for example? Why do they only have ONE sleeping bag (in such a remote place)? Why would they carry that ONE sleeping bag up a Grade I, short route? It's almost better to give no info than such incomplete info that raises more questions than answers. Meanwhile, I wish the best for these folks.

Wow -- nice work, as usual, Stephanie!

Any Grizzly photos? Did you report it to the folks in Marblemount (who are tracking wildlife sightings like yours for the bear biologists)? Nice job on the climb and the non-traditional descent.

I seem to remember doing it with one rope too....

Wow. What peak is this?

Hey Mikester, Thanks for the specifics about routefinding. I've actually been out this way before (en route to Stehekin) but my specific question here is how does this route fit in to the larger context of the Ptarmigan Traverse? In other words, does this round-trip from Cascade Pass over Gunsight Col and back again via High Bridge make sense (for people who know the terrain) or is it absolutely nuts?

"Little Johannesburg" actually looks like Graybeard Peak, to me. Can anyone confirm that?

BUMP. Anyone else ever try going out this way? I'm considering it and want some input. The idea is to climb Dome, out over Gunsight Col, descend Spruce Creek to Agnes Creek, hike up to High Bridge, and come all the way out to Cascade Pass.... Thoughts?

Is the North Face Couloir the route used by the original Ptarmigan Traverse party on their ascent? If so, wow....I always assumed they went up the South face from horseshoe basin..... To answer the question, I didn't go all the way to the base last month, but from where we were on the Boston Glacier, the schrund on the NF Couloir appeared to be appreciable. By now, I bet it's even more appreciable.

I bet it would still go with some tolerance for rockfall and routefinding (traversing through rockbands at the start and again halfway).....but I don't think it's nearly as enjoyable in these conditions. Or safe, for that matter.

She mis-assessed her partner's ability to do the climb, and to follow directions....and her own ability to lead effectively. No amount of fixed anchors can overcome poor judgment and mis-assessment....though it's possible that a set of bolts in a particular place could have taken the sting and some risk out of this situation. Perhaps the near-epic was what she needed to develop more judgment and hopefully more skills.

Cool -- nice pic (steph!) -- thanks for the clarity. Ericandlucie, you climbed the same crack (the left hand one) that I did. I still say 5.9 for it, but I agree that the rightward traverse at the end was thin, and the crack overall strenuous.

Update? How and where did you go???

By mid-aug the schrund will likely be continuous across the lower face, but it's usually easily bypassed by crossing the rock rib and ascending snow to climber's left, rejoining the normal route a few hundred feet higher than normal... I think it'll be doable for sure. Agree with Kyle about the melting out creating challenges overall regarding the appoach and descent.... much of the day is spent approaching the route and returning to camp, and as it melts out, that portion of the route will become looser and less pleasant, but still doable. Post photos for comparative purposes if you go!

I climbed the E Ridge in a day about 5 years ago. It was a great day, but fairly long. We hit the ridge crest by about 8 AM and were up and back down to the car before dark. We left boots, ice ax, etc. at the gendarme where the ridge climb begins, and descended the E Ledges. The first time descending the ledges, it was in fact stressful but not terrible. It's easy climbing with constant exposure, loose sections, and grassy ledges to cross... We ended up simulclimbing about half the ridge, and pitching out some of the harder sections. I thought the technical climbing difficulty was a few notches harder than the West Ridge, overall, including one very steep (but short) gendarme section.

Fabulous! What a smart way to do those peaks, utilizing the high camp near the Chopping Block as a staging area for Terror....

DonnV did it, as I recall...great photos!