goatboy

This is a slightly confusing thread so to be clear: CHAMPAGNE is not closed (as Jake Porter said) but OUTER SPACE and other routes on the main wall are closed until July 31. See the topo in the link Jake sent.

I almost always autoblock off the anchor for all the reasons mentioned above, plus the added likelihood of shooting a few pictures as the second follows the pitch. I have used the technique described by Blake, and the simple switchover advocated for by Alpinfox, and think they're both pretty efficient. Whatever my partner is most comfortable with works for me. The key is to agree to the whole thing before you start, so switchover time doesn't involve too much analysis paralysis

So is the fixed cam on the OW actually clippable? It had no sling to clip last time I was up there...which, admittedly, has been quite a while. But that didn't stop me from STANDING ON IT

Any more updates on this (i.e. facts about what happened)?

I like the simplicity of this but one drawback is that it's very hard to self-extricate if the rope is loaded...

What a great climbing area. I love Tahquitz. Unbelievable rock quality!

I second the recommendation for Cascade Cobbler. http://cascadecobbler.com Great business, excellent service, high quality product, outstanding people.... always support the little guy who does the best job and works harder!

Any more pix showing conditions at sharkfin col (like an overview for example)?

How steep is the Open Fly at it's steepest?

I really like: NW Corner on North Early Winter Spire. East Ridge of Inpsiration Peak North Ridge of Stuart West Ridge Prussik Triple Couloirs

I remember once seeing a picture of someone holding a chunk of rock WITH A BOLT IN IT that fell out of one of the climbs at the Feathers. I saw a rock on the trail at Vantage with a bolt attached to it, my first trip to Vantage, walking to the Sunshine Wall.

Hey Plaisir, you sound really "non snobby." As a West Sider, I was wondering what you call the climbing areas that I refer to as Index and Mazama? You must have a really informed name for those places.

If you spent half the time skiing or climbing that you've clearly spent on your steroidal vocabulary, or your eloquent (even multi-lingual) ability to coax phrases out of nonsense.... You'd probably be even greater than you are. Mammies sometime?

gaston, comment ca va? (oui, dans la pomplempousse) nice work and bon temps... A beer in seattle on a spring day some time??? -Etienne

You are more likely to be sued successfully if you have in some way accepted money to climb with a minor. How about playing baseball with a kid who gets hurt? You COULD be sued for that....but would it be a successful case? Only if you were negligent and did things that are outside of the norms -- it is normal for kids to wear batting helmets for example. If you skipped that and a kid got beaned and brain damaged.... you would be more likely to be found negligent by a jury than if you had followed all the standards of the industry. Extrapolate that to climbing -- follow industry standards -- have a good relationship with the parents and educate them about the inherent risks of climbing -- and I believe that will go a lot further than a liability waiver, which doesn't absolve you from negligence if you fail to do the preceding things. That's about three cents worth of advice I reckon.

You should never trust a single piece of pro....I would probably carry two or three of these to be safe....

Wallowas?

Wow -- long day! Amazing persistence and understatement as well. Was the schrund really more of a cornice? It's hard to tell from the photo. 33 hours!

No shizzle? Is Vesper Peak this clean and solid?

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/12-4-2008.jpg[/img] WOW! That looks fabulous. The sparsely-bolted slab pitches through water grooves I could probably do without however..... Looking-glass rock is cool (this time of year) but TOO HOT much of the year....

Thanks -- will do. Failing that, anyone have a copy for loan if none turn up online? Thanks

I went to the site and there was no guidebook listed -- is it this? http://www.elaho.ca/selkirks.htm

Fabulous light sweeping across the larch tree!

Hey Lisa, I met you up on Liberty Bell once I think -- nice work on picking a good wintry objective!!! Nice photos. Any panoramic, summit shots of nearby peaks (like that BIG ONE just Northeast of you???)

two bootied stoppers????