TimL

Thats so friggin cool! Homeboy from the Cascade hood puttin it down!

this year Spanish - January thru June a couple long routes in Catalonia maybe an alpine ice route in the Pyrenes or Picos de Europa, doubt that will happen due to global warming couple long hard granite alpine routes in Galayos (central range close to Madrid boulder in Albarracin (supposed to be the best bouldering area in Southern Europe and its close to Madrid) onsite a couple routes and redpoint a couple more projects in Cuenca, local sport climbing place States: June thru December Cascades/Index Bugs - hopefully the Howsers Cascades/Index brothers wedding !yeah! Squamish (try to get a couple old monkeys off my back) Sierra - never climbed here so it should be fun Yosemite - El Cap Indian Creek Hueco or Buttermilks/Owens River Gorge Christmas and New Years with family. Hopefully back to Spain in one piece. A lot of climbing, hang out with family and friends who I havn't seen in forever and a lot of fun are the most important goals. Disclaimer: the Euro has to stay strong against the dollar.

Where are those places? Never heard of them.

The first pitch of Saber has to be the scariest 5.4 in the universe. I lowered off the pitch my first year of climbing after 10 cups of coffee at the LW old coffee house and with my nerves totally fried.

So looks like when not traveling or climbing we'll be base camping with the parents this summer in Olympia. To my dismay, they recently relocated from Seattle. Thing is I've only driven through Olympia. The thing that I'm interested in is if there is a climbing gym, local crag, bouldering or what locals do to stay in shape. Hikes? What are some classic day climbs in the Olympics. I hate to say that all the time that I spent in the area I never climbed in the Olympics. Whats there to do in Olympia when not climbing? Thanks

I agree. Why put the dude down. He's just trying to give somebody an opportunity, even if the pay sucks. He didn't do anything. Why hate? Has the weather been really bad in the PNW lately? Do we have a bunch of cranky climbers?

Try to find the best way to spend 4 to 8 months in the States with hitting new areas. Climb something good in Indian Creek in the Fall. Climb a couple good routes in the Cascades and then a couple glacier slogs. Maybe check out the Sierra. Hopefully make it to Patagonia a year from now. Bump up the onsite grade. Too much, glad I have some time off. Have a good time with the boss. Oh, and finally get the red taped boulder problem at the gym. Make it back to Spain in one piece.

Interesting topic. I've had many more close calls driving to go climbing or coming home than actually climbing. One of the most dangerious things in cragging is the belayers. I don't know how many people I know that have been hurt cragging because their belayer was an idiot. This past weekend a couple friends and I were climbing some ran out slabs. Not sort of the material in which you can die, but it can leave you scared shitless. On the way back to the car we had to cross a talus field. I was skipping from boulder to boulder when a branch caught my pant leg and I ended up going face first into a hollow between two giant boulders. It was a big enough opening and my pack was big enough that they had to help me out. My friend thought I was dead or at least had a broken neck. Anyways, a couple facial scratches later and I was fine. What I'm saying is it's a question of time and chance. Life is a gift. Hopefully as climbers we have a better view into that because it could be taken away. I'm a firm believer that when its your time, its your time.

We'll talk. If I were to come to Spain in the Summer I would fly into Barcelona. See the city for a couple of days. Go up to Montserrat. See the church and climb a day or two (it will be hot). I'd then go to the Pyrennes. It will be nice and cool there. There are many small towns with old rocks (what I like to call historic churches and castles) and plenty of real rock climbing. Plus in the Pyrennes you have tons refuges where they serve full board, food and breakfeast. You can do these week long hiking circuits with the family that fo from hut to hut. The Pyrennes are fairly close to the beach so you can go see boobies there after your done with the mountains. After the Pyrennes I would go over to Asturias to a range called Picos de Europas. Once again tons of climbing. Totally different culture. Great food. Close to the beach and tons of old rocks to look at (historical crap). Only bad thing about the boobies at the beach. 98% are what you really don't want to see. 1% is OK. and .25% is Email me if you have any more questions. Gotta go work. At least a little bit.

Can't wait to have you back!

Dude, if your coming over hear come either in the Spring or the Fall. It's way to hot in the summer, unless you want to sit on the beach and look at b(*)(*)bies. Plus, the sarge and I are coming back to the States in July for a good 4 to 6 months. Where to go is a question I'm also pondering. Been to the Bugs several times, Yosemite many times, Rockies many times, Yosemite too many times, Squamish a billion times and the Cascades a trillion times. Looking for something new to keep up interest. A good mix of alpine rock and good cragging.

This is a funny subject. It's kinda like a bunch a little kids fighting for toys. Anyways, I think if someone puts effort into bolting or cleaning, or both bolting and cleaning a line, then they deserve the chance to send it first. With that said, most people who I know here want people to climb their lines ASAP so they can put a grade to the route. On the other hand, if you have a crack or natural line that has just been sitting there well...forever and one day someone decides to take some interest without putting any effort into preparing it, I think its a free for all. Last point. First Free Ascents? This past summer I redpointed a fairly difficult crack route on this tower. When the Boss and I were rapping off I noticed a fairly obvious line right around the corner. I did a little research and asked the refuge owner if the route had been freed. It turns out that the line was a 2 pitch aid line that had yet to be freed and would go at a reasonable grade. So I stated my interest and said I'd be back next weekend to do the route. Take in to account that this route had been opened ten years ago and nobody noticed it untill I started asking about it. Well, I came back the following weekend to find the route "prepared" and being worked on by two regulars for a free ascent. I felt a little pissed but I backed off and didn't try the route. Granted I'm not sure if they did it but if they have yet to do it, I'm going back this spring and sending the fucker. I guess with these things you gotta keep quiet. I know another aid line awaiting a free ascent in the same area, but this time I'm not going to say anything until the project is finished. I think in my case, although I've climbed in the area for two and a half years, I'm an outsider and they don't want outsiders sending their lines.

I am thinking of the Tami Knight cartoon that begins with a little rat declaiming "I eschew clothing and free solo ice climbs naked..." he..he...he...he... I was thinking the same thing.

Its so funny. I havn't bought any gear of since I was last in the States so when I come back I'm going to throw down for some new stuff. The thing is here I just climb and usually never buy much gear. Part of it being I don't care for a lot of the gear sold here and the other is I'm climbing more have less time to look for gear. One thing that I've found out if your debating about light or lighter in gear...just don't buy it and it will weigh nothing!

The rock looks good, the area looks amazing. I hope to get back there this summer. It looks like whatever you climb back there is a worthy experience.

Yeah, ranting can be good at times. I'm taking a couple rest days from training or really moving when I don't have to...so I have time to rant.

That sucks. Too bad. Best wishes to the family.

Just checking out the trip reports on these spires and was wondering how many routes are on these three peaks. (Sorry, the green Beckey is on the other side of the big pond.) Hoping to go back there this coming summer to check out the area. It looks so amazing. For those who have climbed back there, what routes would you recommend doing? Thanks!

Dani has been around the block several times. Having only met him once, but running into his climbs everywhere around here (they usually start around 8A), I can say I doubt he's media whoring any more than other sponsored climbers. If he calls it a 9b, I bet he's telling the truth. I've seen pictures of this guy soling 13b barefoot as well this guy as sent opened 5.13 crack routes. As for ratings. Over here it's a different story. Your talking about limestone. Its a different type of climbing than granite, sandstone or Smithrock tuft. Many of the routes I've done on the West Coast of the States are graded on the hardest move because they are a little more vertical and the pump issue is not that big. But on a typical Limestone route, say 7c/12d you might have three 12a crux sections in a 25 meter route that overhangs a good 10 meters. I've done many routes like this just to fall off on the last easy moves just cause I couldn't hang on any longer. On steep routes like these you have to take into account the physical nature of the route as much as the technical nature. Its a different type of climbing. Churning at Smith is a good example of this type of climbing. As for bouldering. The way they rate boulders here is with the French rating system like sport routes. Some old places go with the Font color system but I've only seen this onces in the Pyrenes. I'm only responding cause, well...cause I live here in Spain and upon first arriving here I wondered about the obvious difference between the two schools of climbing. At first I totally didn't understand. But now I can see why there is a difference. As for the grade, who cares. I'm going climbing this weekend with friends and thats all that matters.

I've started to see this kind of thing happen a lot over here in Spain in the area (Cuenca) that we normally climb sport in. The things is that these kind of routes usually spring up in areas that have already been developed for years. People start putting up routes on fragile rock and thus they glue or concrete fragile features onto the rock. I've also seen routes that people have built features onto the rock using concrete. I don't really care for this type of route creation because typically with glued on holds you get blatant drilled out holds.

How is Flagstaff in the summers? I'm still living a dream of living part of the year in Spain and part in the States. But going to Flagstaff in the summer my guess wouldn't be that much different, speaking of the heat, than Madrid.

Great thread. What would you consider the top 5 places to live for climbing considering Layton's criteria. Also you might add getting a job.

Trip: Riglos, Spain - Various Date: 8/22/2007 Trip Report: Riglos Spain....sorta sport climbing......kinda bolted.....sorta ran out......sorta crappy conglomerate.....really overhanging......sorta one of the most classic series of walls in Spain and fairly terrifying! El Pison - One of the main bigger walls to climb in Riglos. So this summer the boss and I decided to stay in Spain and explore the Pyrennes for our European (6 week) he...he...he. vacation. Anyways, after spending about 4 weeks in the mountains, we got rained and snowed out and had to drop down to the foothills to escape. Normally you don't climb in Riglos during the summer. It's only a fall and spring destination. But the temps dropped enough that we were able to squek out a couple days of climbing. The boss on Espolon Ademelo. An easy "classic" that we managed to get up. Climbers pulling hard on a shourt route. The thing about Riglos is that it is super steep. Some route are almost impossible to retreat because it's too steep. Another thing, unlike Montserrat, which is conglomerate as well, the rock at Riglos is OK. So you might ask the question why climb there? Well, after the terrifying part passes, it's pretty fun. Most routes are sparsely bolted. In reality, this type of rock is really hard to protect. Where there are cracks, the rock is bad. Thats why most routes are totally bolted. I say bolted in a very conservative way. The bolts, where you can find them, are fairly spased apart and most routes here at least have pitches of 10+. And they are super overhanging. At Riglos I aided 10- and 10+, while a week early I was onsighting at about a billion times harder. Thank god the hard parts are fairly well bolted. Due to the crappy rock, you often see people take wingers! It's really a great place to climb. The actual town is right below the walls so you could almost toss a rock into the bar....and order a strong drink while on route. Typical house at the base of the routes, or at least about 5 minutes away. I guess the person in this house had had enough. Look closely to see if you can find the Spanish flag of surrender! Gear Notes: rope, rack, balls and some draws Approach Notes: 5 minutes from the bar seat to the start of the routes.

Trip: Riglos, Spain - Various Date: 8/22/2007 Trip Report: Riglos Spain....sorta sport climbing......kinda bolted.....sorta ran out......sorta crappy conglomerate.....really overhanging......sorta one of the most classic series of walls in Spain and fairly terrifying! El Pison - One of the main bigger walls to climb in Riglos. So this summer the boss and I decided to stay in Spain and explore the Pyrennes for our European (6 week) he...he...he. vacation. Anyways, after spending about 4 weeks in the mountains, we got rained and snowed out and had to drop down to the foothills to escape. Normally you don't climb in Riglos during the summer. It's only a fall and spring destination. But the temps dropped enough that we were able to squek out a couple days of climbing. The boss on Espolon Ademelo. An easy "classic" that we managed to get up. Climbers pulling hard on a shourt route. The thing about Riglos is that it is super steep. Some route are almost impossible to retreat because it's too steep. Another thing, unlike Montserrat, which is conglomerate as well, the rock at Riglos is OK. So you might ask the question why climb there? Well, after the terrifying part passes, it's pretty fun. Most routes are sparsely bolted. In reality, this type of rock is really hard to protect. Where there are cracks, the rock is bad. Thats why most routes are totally bolted. I say bolted in a very conservative way. The bolts, where you can find them, are fairly spased apart and most routes here at least have pitches of 10+. And they are super overhanging. At Riglos I aided 10- and 10+, while a week early I was onsighting at about a billion times harder. Thank god the hard parts are fairly well bolted. Due to the crappy rock, you often see people take wingers! It's really a great place to climb. The actual town is right below the walls so you could almost toss a rock into the bar....and order a strong drink while on route. Typical house at the base on the routes, or at least about 5 minutes away. I guess the person in this house had had enough. Look closely to see if you can find the Spanish flap of surrender! Gear Notes: rope, rack, balls and some draws Approach Notes: 5 minutes from the bar seat to the start of the routes.

I agree. Just because you want to do a particular climb and it doesn't fit your level of acceptable risk doesn't mena you should change it. For example, Naural Log Cabin at Index. I'm saving up mental fortitude to lead this route. I've done it on TR, but last time I was there I did not lead it. Now just because the first run out part scares me doesn't give me the right to add bolts. There are plenty of routes that grade that are well protected.