TimL

That hits close to home. I just saw him in July. Rest in peace. Condolences to family and friends.

I agree 100%. Those bolts are fine. Putting a bolt station next to the tree is no big deal. You also have to consider that nearly every route at Index has bolt stations next to perfectly protectable cracks. Great Northern Slab, GM, Godzilla...just to name of few. There are bolted anchors everywhere. This is not a big deal. So I wonder why a big deal is being made about this station? Hmmmmm....You guys smell something.......it's the thick scent of bullshit. I do have issues with one or two routes at Index with bolts next to cracks that don't need to be there, but I'm not going to spray about it. If anything, we should be buying a beer for the guys that have been cleaning up and taking care of Index. I did Bwana Dik (don't have my guide and don't know the spelling) and thought it was an amazing route. Big thanks to the folks who scrubbed it. I can't tell you how many times I've walked past it and never given it a glance.

I agree....but then you would have to chop most of the sport routes at index. Sorry for matching your stupidity, but thats just a dumbass fucking statement.

That is not the route you are referring to. The Tacul/Maudi route is not nearly as busy as the standard route as it is a lot longer summit day. I did it a few years ago and met about 5 other groups on the route on the way down...hardly a "solid line". And if your in Spain and not visiting the Alps, you will regret it. There's plenty to do away from any crowds. Well, whatever solid lines experiences we both had they seem to be different, but i saw a friggin solid line. Say whatu wanna say. I've always thought.....why go to Frenchyland when you have.... ....well..........Espana!

I think where those people got nailed is the same place where some Brits died last year in the same sorta accident. I think people always die right in that area. I don't think these people are more blase about death, it's more like people being guided through a really dangerous area. I've seen pictures of that route in the middle of the night and there is a solid line of headlamps from the beginning to end. It'd be like a solid line of people from Muir to the summit. It;s the highest peak in Europe. Thats why I've never gone to the Alps.

Partner found.

Thinking about heading to Index for the day on Saturday. Lower Wall, Inner Wall or the Country. PM me if interested.

Sounds like early September might not be the best.

Thinking about maybe taking a trip to the Winds in the next couple of weeks. I've never been to this area and know little about it. Any beta on how to get there, good climbs, approaches, season, permits, climbing areas close by, etc...would be greatly welcomed! Thanks!

Looking at climbing this coming Thursday and Friday. Crag, boulder or alpine. Weather on the Eastside looks best. PM me if interested.

Are there routes to the right of Middle Finger Buttress Left Side? It looks like there are an abundance of cracks and corners. What's the best way to approach Cathedral? When we did it we went in through Winthrope and it took a day and a half. Is there a better approach from Canada? Also, whats the best way to approach if you wanted to combine Cathedral/the Monk with routes on Amphitheater and then do the Grimface-Macabre-Matriarch Traverse? I think in total we might have four climbing days plus two and a half days to approach and descend. Thanks!

Hiked into this area about 5 years ago but upon reaching the base of Cathedral, it started to rain and we promptly headed out. I going to return to the area this coming week and I'm wondering if anyone had good beta on rack size for the South Buttress route on Cathedral and more important beta on other routes to do in the area. The Red Beckey has a fair amount of information, but it's not that clear. Thanks for any and all information!

Sounds good. I just remember someone telling me and maybe it says in Nelson's book that you need 2 ropes to rap.

PM Sent

How far to the left of the couloir is the gulley? Can you rap down the gulley or does it have to be the couloir? Do you have to have doubles or can you rap with one 60? Thanks! Tim

That sucks. Best wishes to the family and her husband. That has to be tough for him loosing your partner in the mountains. My wife and I did the route on Monday. It was the second time that I've done the route. The first time I thought the route was great. This past time I thought it was a wee bit too broken. Not as good as before. Lots of loose rock.

Bump. Still looking for someone to head out into the Bugs, Tetons, Winds or Sierras. or doing a route or two in the Cascades would be fun as well. I'm interested in Clean Break, something easy in the Pickets, Forbidden West Ridge, Slesse if the pocket glacier slides or maybe a high mountain traverse. Open to other ideas as well. Can climb starting August 12 both weekdays and weekends. PM me if interested.

Bump, still looking.

Partner Wanted Aug 12-20: Alpine Rock/Bugaboos /Rock/crag maybe….. Looks like the wife will have to return to Spain cause family issues so I’m throwing this out to see if anyone has an interest. I’ll be probably looking for a partner from around Aug 12/13ish to around the 20ish. At this point my schedule is fairly wide open so the end dates are flexible but I won’t be able to leave before the 12th. I’m interested in doing alpine rock, but could be talked into doing a mix of cragging and alpine rock. I’m most interested in going to a destination where we can set a base camp and do several routes. I’d like to return to the Bugaboos to do the Becky Chouinard, Sunshine Crack, Surfs Up and several other routes. I’d also have an interest in checking out the Tetons, Wind Rivers, the Sierra in Cali or even the Diamond in Colorado but thats a bit far. I could some do things in the Cascades, but I’ve done a fair amount of routes here so I’d like to see a new places or at least something interesting. Not that interested in Squamish cause I just spent the past two weeks there. I’m also open to other ideas. Looking to have a fun time and do good routes. Need someone who’s fit, can climb/follow reasonably fast, fairly experienced and solid in the alpine. Must climb more than reads porn and the internet. I’m relaxed, motivated and fairly experienced. I’m happy leading all the hard pitches. Easy routes are fine as well, but no glacier hikes. I’ll save those for when I’m old and fat. I hike at a normal speed but climb fast (too much overhanging limestone this past winter). I lead up to 5.12, but a little less in the alpine. I can dirtbag, but I’m not in super dirtbag mode starving to climb. PM me if interested. I’ll be out climbing Sun thru Tues.

Depends what your using them for, but 80 meter ropes are great for overhanging sport clmbing. I've even heard of people using 100 meter ropes, but this is for super specific, really long overhanging sport routes.

From Goat Pass, about how far is it to the start of the LNR?

Anybody know if there are any good bivy sites at the base of the lower North Ridge? I was thinking about hiking in there from Ingalls, biving them going for the complete the next day. It'd be nice to have a car camping bivy site next to the base.

Any updates?

Looking to do something alpine in the Stuart Range or routes at Index on Friday. Can drive up on Thursday afternoon. Fairly open to any objective. Just want to get out. CBR, Dragontail, Stuart....could be persuaded to do something in the WA Pass area but thats a little far. Any thing alpine has to be done car to car cause I have to be back on Saturday morning. Index is good too. Upper Wall or Lower. PM me if interested.

pm sent