TimL

Curious to see your rack, since you exclude products by Petzl Charlet-Moser Grivel Mammut Trango (cams and nuts made in the Czech Republic) Wild Country DMM Beal Camp Edelrid On Sight Arcteryx (those Canadians are pretty sketchy, though) and others. Not talking about companies based out of the States. Out of your entire list, none of these companies began in the States.

Thats really cool that BD replies to inquires such as on this website and I have to say that gains my respect that they put the facts out in the opinion for their consumers to know. This is the bottom line. I don't care if a clothing item is made in China. So be it. What I do care is that my technical climbing gear is made there. Half of the argument is based on the non logical argument that by having my gear made here makes me feel better. This argument is easy to dismiss on the grounds of emotions, but you have to actually think of how many consumer purchases are made on the grounds of logic. Not many. Most purchases are made on a non logical basis. I want to know that my gear is made in the States and not thousands of miles away and then shipped here. It makes me feel better. It also makes me feel better that when I spend money that is totally irrelevent to everyday survival (like cams and climbing) its at least going back to the States. By looking into the fishbowl from the outside you see things differently and perceptions change. I could keep going, but today is the start of another (at least once a month) three day week here in Spain and I'm going climbing.

He, he , he....just for the sake of discussion. Yeah I agree about food on the table versus little climbing gidgets. Double edged sword we are talking about here. Article has some interesting points.

He, he , he....just for the sake of discussion. Yeah I agree about food on the table versus little climbing gidgets. Double edged sword we are talking about here. Article has some interesting points.

Not really but thanks. Not looking to buy anything until July and at that I don't know what.

Yes, lets Americanize everything. Good thought. Uncle Sam can lead all the developing nations down the path of environmental destruction and war for oil so that they too, one day, can live the capitalist dream...I mean nightmare....I mean American dream...oh hell you know what I'm talking about. Stuffy assholes no. Being an intelligent race of people (after electing Bush I don't know if we qualify for that one) we'll hopefully learn from our mistakes, not perpetuate and gain from promoting them in other developing countries. China is a superpower. Developing maybe, but I'd be interested in the distribution of wealth. To be honest, while we are worrying about the middle class in Japan, Brazil and elsewhere, I'd be worried about the ubiquitous American middle class. Funny. This just happened to be in the Seattle Times today. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/2003941241_chinadreams11.html

YOu gotta pick and choose your battles. BD hits home.

You also have to recall just last year when soliders from China executed Tibetan refugees in plain view on the Cho Oyu Base Camp. Here is an article. Someone should send this to BD. http://hrw.org/english/docs/2006/10/26/china14460.htm BD is not a big company and its user group is pretty small so we as climbers can make a statement with our spending power. Actually, if their cams are made in China now, I won't buy anything else from BD.

Chouinard's vision when he started BD........Made in China. I'm going to buy a new set of cams in the near future, at least I thought I'd buy BD, but know I'm going to think twice. Hopefully this is not true. It would be nice for BD to invest in the States. I would pay more for a product made in Yankee land. Don't want to give my Euro to China. ha ha ha ha

Big pimpin ain't ez, but with that ride it's not hard!

The boss and I are coming back to the States for a while next year and although I don't want to admit it, I think my poor little VW Golf is about to give in to it's fate or at least I need to find a good mechanic. Anyways, I'd like to hear your experiences and suggestions about the best type of cars for a long trip. I'm looking for something used with not a ton a miles and good gas mileage. Something that would outlive the 08 roadtrip and at least last a couple of roadtrips, meaning when we come to the States the car is driven a lot then put into strage until next visit. Maybe good to sleep in but thats not too important. Has to have room to fit a lot of gear. Not afraid to throw down some dough as long as the Euro remains strong. Thanks for any suggestions!

I think good ole Fred is going to be busy updating conditions for Wa Pass this year. Tough work

Malaga, Spain. Good food, hot women and .....yeah....the climbings good.

I'd give it a 10a but compare it to Penny Lane at the Bluffs and its harder. Anyway, the only thing better than flaming about grades is flaming about bolts. Limestones going great. Really missing cracks, but limestone season has just started and I'm already gettin an ass woopin.

Thats a load of bullshit. The split wouldn't be 5.8 at the Bluffs. Everybody used to say it was a 10b that felt like a 10d. Granted there is not a show stopper move but its all about endurance on biggish holds.

Or maybe a #2. Anyways the last couple moves of the route are the hrdest, but they are the best and protect well. If I remember correctly it was kinda crappy getting up to those moves. Bring 1 four. 1 three or maybe two, but I don't think its needed. The route was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Not very sustained. I think there was a pin or something in the bombay chimney. Anyways, everything was secure about this pitch except the last couple of moves.

Rogers Corner has Tricky stemming sequence at the crux. Good job.

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

I thought it felt like 5.10-. When I said that my partner about punched me. Still, I think it fells easier than the grade. Nevertheless, a classic. The climb is thin hands, rattley fingers and maybe a handjam or two. Its really more of an endurance climb more than anything. Easier than Clean Crack and Crime. But both of those are finger cracks that are kinda slabby and yout on your feet. Somebody should go up and rebolt the Dagoba System. Looks like a killer line. Whats the name of the 11d down and to the right of ROTC? Looks nice. Stevens Pass Motel?

Temps are starting to lower so we went sport climbing in Cuenca, a really nice place a couple hours from Madrid. After only climbing alpine in the Pryennes for the past couple months, getting back into sport climbing was a little hard. Had a good couple of onsites and redpoints and found a couple good projects for this coming winter. Revisited my favorite pastry shop in the world and ate plenty of chocolate goodies. Hung out the small village where a bunch of us are renting a house as a base camp for sport climbing in Cuenca this winter.

I think you can protect it at the bottom with a yellow alien or something like that. Its really not bad, maybe a little scary but its all there.

Great Fucking post! Jim use to say the same thing to me except it was 5.11 then! Climbing standards are much higher than they were 30 years ago. EG: When first freed both Japanese Gardens and Sloe Children were rarely climbed. Now there is a line every weekend. Tim - Did you ever hook up with Dick? I haven't heard from him in a while and was wondering what he was up to. Haven't seen nor heard of Dick, although we've traded a couple emails now and then. I'm going to the Pyrenees in a week ((Cavallers). The place where I'm going is supposed to be one of his favorite areas. Maybe I'll see him.