TimL

You guys talk way to much about bolting. Go climb something.

I might be there in late August through September. Is it too hot to climb in the valley during late August? I've only been there during the spring.

If it were next August 07 then sure, but I'm afraid I'll be in the Rockies during this coming August.

I think Jamie M did Aretiface clean a couple of years ago.

Hey Dave - Thanks for the ideas. Everything sounds really good. I'd love to try all along the Watchtower. I saw the topo and it looks cool. All depends on what I can talk the chica into. No matter what, it'll be good to be back in North America for a while.

I'm thining we are going to spend some times in the Bugs and Rockies. But, a little bit more psyched about the Bugs.

Has anyone done Furry Pick, Bugaboo, Sunshine, Tower Arete or any other routes on Snowpatch? As for Howser, if you bivied at the base of the Beckey Chournard, would there be snow to melt for water? Whats a good rack for this route?

If you had from July to the end of September to go road tripping....where would you go? Trying to figure out the best use of our time using Seattel as a home base and also keeping in mind that we need to spend time with the fam.

I'd be afraid Power of Lard would jump on me. Tower Arete on Snowpatch looks really nice.

I've been to the Bugs once, so I have a general idea of the area. Going again this summer and I've done a couple of the crowded classics. Can anyone reccomend good routes that are not the crowded classics. The more difficult the better. Looking for ideas for harder free climbs that can be done in a day by non-super climbers, but by a party thats able to climb fast enough. Energy Crisis looks awesome, but is short.

Holy shit, I guess you really need a margin for safety. Two or three seasons cleaning gear! Your crazy. I think this is how you advance from being a 5.3 gear leader to a 5.4c gear leader in just 5 years. Think about when this sport started. Their were no safety measures, no helmets or belay devices. I for one started climbing outside. I followed one 5.6 pitch at Index. Then I lead it. Really, it wasn't that hard. By the end of the year I was leading 5.9 at Index, onsite. I'd hate to think were I would be if I followed someone for 2 or 3 years. Wow, thats a crazy statement. Grow some balls. I think the most important aspect is developing your "lead head". The technical aspects of placing gear, especialy in granite, are fairly easy. I do think the most important issue out of all of this is that the poor guy who had the accident has a speedy recovery. Its easy to spray on the net if your not the one in the hospital.

This is perhaps the smartest thing yet said in this thread. Although beginners typically learn on 5.4 and 5.6, that type of terrain is really bad to fall on. Maybe have them learning on harder steeper stuff? Really, there is not too much difference between 5.4 and 4th class. As for adding a bolt, its not going to make the mountians safe. Best to leave bolts off routes established without bolts. If someone doesn't think it is safe enough, don't do it. Nobody makes you climb. Best wishes to the injured person. I hope he has a speedy recovery.

SC - When I first hurt my wrist I got kinda upset, but I figured that without the additional baggage of being pissed off, the injury would heal quicker. I think thats totally right on. As far as static climbing goes, and RuMr knows this about me, I have to work on my form because I have the strengh to pull most moves. I've found that I'm concentrating more on holding body tension longer to do long static moves on overhangs than just hucking for it. Thanks

SC - Thats the best advice I've heard. Thank gawd, the injury is not as bad as I thought. I've bouldered for the last two days with next to no pain. It still hurts around my wrist to forearm area, but I am able to climb with it if I climb smart. Really good advice. I'm not a dynamic climber by nature. I prefer static, technical routes. I'm learning to climb with an injury, and it is a big learning process, but its working. Whenever I feel a hint of pain, I let. I doubt I'll be climbing hard sport on a regular basis untill I get back to Spain in October. Lucky enough, i already put down one project this spring so I can at least lay off in peace. If you have any more tips on climbing with an injury, I'm all ears. Thanks.

A couple years ago Mike and I found a Bavarian Reality in Leavenworth. Doubt its been climbed either. I just tried a Spanish Reality this past weekend. Good thing is that its only a roof "boulder" reality problem.

sweet!

I hurt it about a week ago pulling on limestone pockets. I've been trying to be chill with it but its kinda hard. I'm just not pulling on pockets for a while and climbing more cracks, a kinda rare thing here, and slabs. The thing is that it doesn't hurt when I apply pressure, only when I pull down when my two fingers are almost at full extension. This is the first time I've every had a problem like this.

Last week I was clipping some bolts when I grabbed a huge 3 finger pocket and felt a pull in my right side ring finger/pinky tendon from the base of the finger all the way down past my wrist to the middle of my forearm. It hurts the wrist around the wrist area. Now the weird thing is that the tendon only hurts when pressure is applied on the two fingers while they are in an extended position, like grabbing a pocket. Now when I am crimping, nothing hurts. Has anyone had this problem? Anybody know what has happened and what I should do to heal this fucker. Any info will help. Thanks.

I might

Soul Reaper, Yikes...the block fell off? When? You mean there is not a perfect hand jam behind the block? Can't wait to jump back on that route when I come back this summer. Been thinking about that last move. Excellent climb!

Who has been on Steel Monkey? That thing is pretty hard for the grade, but the gear is all good!

hmmm...i'm about 5'-5" and i think sag is .11b...maybe you're too tall??? I'm about 5-9, and thing Sag is 11b. Its just one or two hard moves. Jap Gardens feels like 11c. Heart of the Country P3 is not 11a.

I'll try to add a tr on the Costa Blanca in Spain.

My point regarding leaving trash is that people from every country have trashed the mountains. No need to label. I hope Patagonia is not trashed. If I'm lucky, I'll be there next year.

He tagged the top, and it sounded like he was off the mountain. The issue is him being rescued after the climb descending through an icefall. Normally, correct me if I am wrong, people are usually flown in and out of the Devils Thumb? If this were true, and he was off the climb, the rescue bit is not a big deal. If you look at it in black and white, he was flown in and out. Just like everyone else.