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Agreed. Then if they get pictures of them doing it, just once, they can keep them in line even after they sober up, or get some guilt pangs. People have been saying, "why would anyone take pictures of themselves doing that shit?" Well, I think those pictures were taken for a reason, and it wasn't for these reserves to be able to reminisce back at home with.

You're straying from the point Dr. Flash, Dr. Crash is not Cairns. The difference in performance Dr. Crash is gonna get between any pair of (comfy yet snug) shoes is going to be quite minimal. But I agree, getting a supportive (klunky) shoe is not a necessity. A newbie's arms are gonna flame out long before his/her feet, so I don't think support is required.

It will be interesting to see whether this guy is given due process, or if he will be stripped of all constitutional rights. Lawyer, married with children, living in Coos Bay, sounds pretty middle/upper class. If this guy gets detained indefinitely without access to an outside attorney, you gotta believe noone is safe from our overreaching executive branch. When is the supreme court going to come out with their decision on this stuff anyway? Does it take months, weeks, days usually for them to return a decision?

And to top it off, the whole crew was probably blabbering on cell phones

I'll tell you why. Because the military intelligence guys wanted to be able to keep the dumb enlisted pukes in line. I think it's pretty well established that often the torturers are under some kind of duress themselves. These dumb kids, who are now going to be the scapegoats, thought maybe it was funny at first. The intelligence guys took their pictures, then if any of 'em started getting cold feet about torturing, the intelligence guys could just tell them they couldn't back out now. They were in for life. Classic blackmail technique. I hope they get the military intelligence thugs who commanded all of this, instead of just a couple of dumb kids in the reserves who got caught up in some bad shit. It ain't right.

I'll tell you one thing, I'd rather go climbing with someone who's not climbing so well, than someone who's constantly crying about his feet hurting AND not climbing well. If your feet hurt bad, you'll be avoiding foot placements that make them hurt. You will reduce your choices of holds and thus climb more poorly. It's important to have your toes touching the front of the boot. They are not going to stretch lengthwise. If they stretch widthwise, just tighten the laces up more. Duh. Don't worry about the shoe stretching. Just make sure that you have more room to crank down the laces.

Maybe there's a reason your story is only on Fox News.

And is the first 11+ pitch easily aidable?

That folding sink is actually sorta handy for backpacking, and good for the environment. You can easily do all your dish washing far from a watersource. Of course 20$ is pretty steep for collapsible bucket. You can easily make one by cutting the top off of one these 6$ jobs.

Klenke and Kompany, nice job! Looks like a kool klimb. With respect to summit registers: when I catch myself leafing through one of them a bit too long, reading stuff like, "Beautiful sunny day! Can see Adams, Rainier, ...", or "Total summit whiteout. This always happens to me!" over and over, I suddenly feel pretty stupid to be wasting limited view-gazing minutes poring over the weather record of the past few years.

Exactly what AF says! Think comfy, or at least, not painful. Don't listen to salespeople telling you to get them too small. It is nice to have them as snug as possible. For that you just need to try all sorts of different shoes and see which fits your feet the best. Do NOT get them so small they hurt walking around the shop for 5 seconds. Getting them extra tight so that they hurt may be helpful when you're climbing, say, 5.10+ face, but it sounds like you're not there yet. And if you're primarily interested in peakbagging with small amounts of technical ground, I'd consider just getting some approach shoes with sticky rubber. Fitting them snug will help with the climbing, but of course, could hurt on long approaches.

my puffy hurts

You must have been thinking of Mother's Day, that's on Thursday.

Don't listen to him. He's just trying to get people to mangle their cams by packing them wrong. Then he'll rake in the dough fixing all the CC.commer cams. What I do is use one of those vinyl shoe organizer thingies you can hang on your closet door. One or two cams, depending on size, in each shoe slot. Then roll it all up, fold it over like a burrito and slide it inside the pack. Keeps it all nice and neat, and no wires get tweaked. Then I hang all the draws, my harness, helmet and shoes on the outside.

I was straddling that thing

Yes it sounds like Ken's and Matt's bushes are possibly not the same. One is below the anchors, Ken's sounds like it is to the side. Perhaps some triangulation could solve this mystery? The reason we chose our bush was that it was the only and closest probable anchor/pro that we could see from the belay. Also, I think we had some vague beta saying, "go right". Our bush was approximately 120' up and right (mind's eye says, "bush at 2 o'clock", where midnight is straight up the fall-line). We anchored at that bush; i.e., used the bush as an anchor. There were zero bolts there. Then we went straight up and found a bolt anchor. I don't know how far, but it was not a full ropelength. Call that anchor "anchor A". On our way back down when rapping from anchor A, neither of us were able to find another bolt anchor within reach of our doubled 60m ropes (at least Matt told me they were 60m ). We set up a scary little garden of tinypro in that flaky choss, and did the downclimb thing back to the anchors below and (climber's) left of the grassy bushy patch. Those anchors were the top of our pitch 12. How you got there in 15 pitches while simuling is an interesting question ). Disclaimer: all this information comes from recollections of an event 6 months in the past. Please keep in consideration that some specific parameters may be altered in the physical world and/or in the transient thoughts of a very imperfect individual.

Matt's bush is not 250' out. The next set of bolt anchors is. Matt's advice is to go to a bush then up. His post does not say bolt anchors at the bush. In fact, it says "no bolts".

I've had that problem where you try to edit and it deletes most everything you wrote except what's in the little box. When that happens I've been able at least retrieve my text (then cut and paste to start all over), by doing the "back" button a couple of times to get to the page where you first submitted it.

I'm curious. What is completely different from what's previously been posted? Well there is "the" lone bush up there. That may have made things confusing. Nope. I just checked. No reference to "the" bush or "lone" bush on that other thread.

He needed 'em for the belay. He has very sensitive eardrums and can't stand whining.

I'm curious. What is completely different from what's previously been posted?

Bug = Dan Larson?

domesticated partner benefits

man this is really starting to sound like a full-on love fest