chucK

You must have been thinking of Mother's Day, that's on Thursday.

Don't listen to him. He's just trying to get people to mangle their cams by packing them wrong. Then he'll rake in the dough fixing all the CC.commer cams. What I do is use one of those vinyl shoe organizer thingies you can hang on your closet door. One or two cams, depending on size, in each shoe slot. Then roll it all up, fold it over like a burrito and slide it inside the pack. Keeps it all nice and neat, and no wires get tweaked. Then I hang all the draws, my harness, helmet and shoes on the outside.

I was straddling that thing

Yes it sounds like Ken's and Matt's bushes are possibly not the same. One is below the anchors, Ken's sounds like it is to the side. Perhaps some triangulation could solve this mystery? The reason we chose our bush was that it was the only and closest probable anchor/pro that we could see from the belay. Also, I think we had some vague beta saying, "go right". Our bush was approximately 120' up and right (mind's eye says, "bush at 2 o'clock", where midnight is straight up the fall-line). We anchored at that bush; i.e., used the bush as an anchor. There were zero bolts there. Then we went straight up and found a bolt anchor. I don't know how far, but it was not a full ropelength. Call that anchor "anchor A". On our way back down when rapping from anchor A, neither of us were able to find another bolt anchor within reach of our doubled 60m ropes (at least Matt told me they were 60m ). We set up a scary little garden of tinypro in that flaky choss, and did the downclimb thing back to the anchors below and (climber's) left of the grassy bushy patch. Those anchors were the top of our pitch 12. How you got there in 15 pitches while simuling is an interesting question ). Disclaimer: all this information comes from recollections of an event 6 months in the past. Please keep in consideration that some specific parameters may be altered in the physical world and/or in the transient thoughts of a very imperfect individual.

Matt's bush is not 250' out. The next set of bolt anchors is. Matt's advice is to go to a bush then up. His post does not say bolt anchors at the bush. In fact, it says "no bolts".

I've had that problem where you try to edit and it deletes most everything you wrote except what's in the little box. When that happens I've been able at least retrieve my text (then cut and paste to start all over), by doing the "back" button a couple of times to get to the page where you first submitted it.

I'm curious. What is completely different from what's previously been posted? Well there is "the" lone bush up there. That may have made things confusing. Nope. I just checked. No reference to "the" bush or "lone" bush on that other thread.

He needed 'em for the belay. He has very sensitive eardrums and can't stand whining.

I'm curious. What is completely different from what's previously been posted?

Bug = Dan Larson?

domesticated partner benefits

man this is really starting to sound like a full-on love fest

Can't you guys start your own damn thread about pants and leave this one alone

What about Raven's Castle? I guess it's not multipitch, but it's got some exposure . Aren't there good 5.7 trad and bolted pitches up there? I know I'm falling into that old trap of upping the requested grade, but hell it's Squamish, 5.7 = ~ 5.4 elsewhere . And Calculus Crack is climber's left of St. Vitus. That would be my first recommendation if you can pull on gear at the 5.8 place (i dunno, never done it). If you're novice climbers though beware that Calculus Crack could end up being quite the epic for you. It's: 1. at your limit, 2. long, 3. crowded, 4. sorta tricky to find the descent. But you probably won't die, and it'd be a hell of an adventure. Get an early start and a bring a headlamp!

How many IED did that picture create? How many RPG's did that picture buy? A whole lot more than the act prevented I'll bet. This kinda shit happens in wars. It's not surprising and it's not particularly repugnant considering the people perpetrating this shit are up to their eyeballs in death, pestilence, fear and suffering 24/7 over there right now. War sucks. It didn't work out as easily and cleanly as they implied it would. Who'd a thunk it . Impeach Bush

Don't you go down to go up high plains drifter?

Holy shit! I had no idea I was brushing shoulders with greatness all weekend!

I think creatinine (stuff in urine) and creatine (body-builder stuff) are different things.

Here's one to break up all the ski pics Uncle Tricky gearin' for the crux and another skiin' one

What do you mean by "evening"? With an extra four miles on the road, you're talking about 3-6 hours to the lake probably. But you're officially not supposed to camp at the lake anyway. With all the snow around you can probably camp just about anywhere along the way. Right at the pass would be pretty darn scenic. The drive is about 2.5 hours. I think you're going to be hard-pressed to find anything "alpine" that does not require stomping through a lot of snow right now.

We went up looking for Claus Von Bulow etc... last year and I think we saw the Jap. Gardens pitch you're talking about. It looked (like it used to be) sweet. Claus Von Bulow... is pretty ugly looking too, with an exposed belay station below with terrible-looking bolts. End Run looked pretty good, Free Cat did appear to get a scrubbing, and Steel Pulse (excellent yet scary) got a nice refurbishment. Go climb that one! Do your part to keep it clean!

OK, how about this one? You've been climbing at Index (upper wall) all day and it's really freakin' hot, and your water ran out about 6 pitches ago and you're drier than a [insert your amusingly exagerated stereotype of a negatively aroused housewife here], and you get back to the bitchin 4WD truck, and all you've got is 4 ice-cold beers? Unfortunately, you've used blue ice as a coolant, so there is no ice-melt water. Only beer, refreshing beer..... what do you do? ?

I like that hat. I do like that hat. A splendid party hat!

Perhaps you are not in the position to be requesting perks, but if you could I'd broach the subject of just working a 2-3 day week with longer hours. Say you wanna do your part to keep cars off the road or something.