chucK

Oh yeah...and with respect to Fuddhat... does anybody know about the status of that route? Which bolts got wiped out? Whatta ya need to do now to get past those sections? Chuck

Matt, Sorry if my post sounded like I was bagging on Total Soul. It was not meant that way. When we rapped, I thought the tree looked good, but my partner whined about it a little. It just came directly to mind when thinking about the Static Point tree. Which by the way IS unmissable as you must climb over it to stay on the trail, and it is also about 2 feet in diameter. Yes there are plenty of other places to rap from the top of Total Soul. You can even walk down can't you? It just seemed a little funny that this route with so much obvious work put into it (complete with signs at the top directing one to the rap route) would have this possible weak link. But then where does it end? Fix(?) that and some bozo will find something else to gripe about. I guess I should just shut up now so as to keep from sounding like an and even more ungrateful whiner. Chuck

re: Careno Crag regular route p4... Isn't there a good horizontal crack right next to the (former?) piton that you can get a cam or tri-cam in? Chuck

To the Captain, Are you talking about Midway Direct or Midway Direct DIRECT? I think there was a spot where a #00 TCU might have fit on the direct direct. I didn't have one though, so don't trust me on that. To everyone, It IS a fun route, even with the missing bolt. I think with the second bolt, it would be pretty casual. In it's current state, it's thought provoking. If the bottom bolt weren't there, I wouldn't lead it. I am not trying to make a case for retrobolting existing routes. I am just reporting what's out there now, and am wondering what might be out there the next time I'm there. Chuck

Well, I guess I lived. Are you saying that those guys listed under the FA in the Kramar guidbook retrobolted an existing line? You think maybe it was chopped? Chuck [This message has been edited by chucK (edited 04-23-2001).]

It was there last year. There were no climbers attached to it that we could find. You should have left the slings there as a reminder. When we climbed Total Soul at Three O'clock Rock last Fall, one of the rappel anchors is a tree with half of it's root ball exposed on slick granite probably from erosion caused by people standing under the tree when starting the rappell. Watch out on that one kids! There's a ton of bolts on that buttress already. A couple more bolts for rap anchors might be prudent before that tree goes. So did I read you correctly that you went up to Static Point this last weekend? How were the conditions up there? I guess the road must be open huh? Chuck

Hey! I climbed Midway Direct Direct at Castle Rock yesterday. It's a cool pitch but there appears to be a bolt missing. In the topo there are two bolts. It looks like the first one is new, and I found where the second one WAS (just broken shaft now). Next to it was a nice-looking hole. I figure someone was replacing the bolt and then something happened to interrupt the process (drill bit broke?, dropped bolt?). Anyone have any information on this? Whether or not someone is planning on finishing the job? It's still a cool pitch, but at the moment, quite runout. That second bolt was in a very key spot. A 3/8" removeable bolt might work for you there. By the way, the first (replaced?) bolt was a little botched too. It's a spinner. Chuck

You also need to be successfully prosecuted. I like those odds. chucK

Hey! Do you think you might be able learn how to use email instead of the bulletin board to send your personal messages? Thankyouverymuch, chucK [This message has been edited by chucK (edited 04-24-2001).]

Colin's idea sounds like an attempt to indicate the danger/difficulty of soloing a route. I don't think it works because many routes have different danger and difficulty cruxes without one that definitely takes precedence. For example, would you call Angel at Castle Rock a 4.10a or a 5.7? What is harder? Would a 10a section with ankle tweaking possibilities, or some 5.7 territory in with an inarguable death penalty be more important to present? Similarly, doesn't the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell have some exposed sections of 5.5 or so? Calling it a 4.7 may be deceptive if that is indeed the case. You do NOT want to be deceptive when telling someone how difficult/easy a route is to solo. chucK

quote: Originally posted by Smoker: A couple of years ago I was on the 10b pitch of "on line" at static point. I was about 20ft above the second bolt, straight up, attempting to traverse to the third bolt. [...] I have since learned that I need to traverse straight off the second bolt rather than up higher. S I led that thing like 5 years ago and ended up just like you maybe, right of the 3rd bolt standing on a less than comforting hold. I reached way out left and clipped the bolt then was faced with yarding the dragging rope left across my body. I looped my fingers around the draw but didn't weight it, probably woulda been able to catch myself if I blew. Got the courage up to try it again just last year. I'd seconded it once since then and knew there was a way to traverse left earlier. There must be a nice path of holds there 'cause though I thought I was moving more left I ended up in exactly the same predicament 5 years later! Left arm stretched straight, thumb and index finger in a loop encircling but not touching the draw, trying not to breath while I yard the dragging rope across my body to the draw. Sorry, this was not a whipper story. chucK

Yet one more ascent of the Tooth yesterday (March 23). We did the South Face via the East gully of Pineapple Pass. Really perfect conditions. Of course that might be changing today. There was a bit of sun-induced snowfall off of the SE face into and below the Pineapple gully, but otherwise there's not that much sun on the approach to induce slides. We left the TH at about 6:45 and were able to hike all the way up in hiking boots. Just a bit of postholing in the trees, and some real icy ski-trails down low. The Pineapple Pass gully got sorta scary near the top with no crampons, rope or second tool. I dropped a rope to my partner. No snow on the rock route except for the third-class part. I'm not used to rappelling the route (I usually walk down the North Ridge) and found that a 60m rope would've been a bit more convenient in linking the top two rap stations. In the summer I guess there is easy ground between where you would rap off of a 50m and the next station, but right now you have to get down a bit of steep snow. The return trip felt like it could've been posthole city had we not brought snowshoes. chucK [This message has been edited by chucK (edited 03-24-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Alex: of course, should the road close, you could always use a mountain bike Well... #1. It is not obvious that you will be able to use a mountain bike given the FS penchant for prohibiting them, so as to not bother the horseys. But that probably doesn't bother you since you broadcast to the world (on your webpage) that you use your mountain bike on the prohibited trails anyway. #2. What's your point? I could also get to the trailhead by crawling naked from the Texaco station that plays the cartoons at the gas pumps. But you know what? That would be more difficult. Sorry, but I'd rather use my limited time doing something other than humping a pack full of climbing and bivy gear on my mountain bike up a dusty road. I'd rather they don't close down an existing valuable (to me) resource in an attempt to battle a perceived problem (hooligans in the woods) with a fix that won't fix anything (from what I've seen the evidence of shooting and dumping is confined to the part they're not going to close down). chucK [This message has been edited by chucK (edited 03-20-2001).]

Hey! Just thought I'd get this issue to the top of the climber's board again. I just talked to the ranger(?) working on the (possible) shutdown of the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Road. He said they're hoping to get out the draft plan by late April. Then there's a 30-day comment period followed by a 45-day period to allow appeals of the decision. Thus, the "implementation" could take place in mid-summer, just as the climbing is getting good up there. It doesn't take long for them to lock the gate at Dingford Creek. So, call now to get your draft plans and get ready to send in those comments. The phone number to reach the contact person is (425)888-1421 ext. 233. He said there's been a bunch of calls recently by people in favor of keeping the road open. I'd guess that's probably due to this thread. Powerful, but misquided organizations (Mountaineers, Sierra Club) were pro-closure the last I read. The Middle Fork Snoqualmie Road is very nice access to some excellent climbing and backpacking. I climbed Chimney Rock from that way a couple years back. It was a beautiful, brush-free approach. An excellent bivi site and a fun climb. There's lot's of other great stuff I've done from the end of the MFSR road. Humping all yer crap up 7 miles of dusty road would not improve the experience. Check it out, then do your part to keep it open. chucK

We were out at Vantage yesterday (Sun 3/11). We thought we were going to freeze when we got out at the Wenatchee rest area, but by 10am we were baking at the Sunshine wall. There were two or three sections of really loose stuff on Party in your Pants. Earthquake ravage perhaps as that used to be a totally solid climb. Kicked a bunch of stuff down from In Too Deep too, but I'm guessing that one has always been chossy. The folks queued up for Party we're not appreciative of my unintentional cleaning efforts. I guess I've now received my karmic retribution for giving Bill Robins shit about cleaning one Sunday. It was so hot at Sunshine we had to hightail it to Mideast Wall before we ran out of water. It was nice and cool (and solid) there. The Elders is a way cool climb. It's just barely there for the grade. Way solid, but too short. chucK

Mine was

Took a quick afternoon out on Red Mountain sometime in September (2000). The Southern Face is a pretty fun scramble. Hike up the Commonwealth Basin Trail until one of the switchbacks is right next to rock. No bushwhacking should be involved. Scramble right and up, over some chossy rock. Head toward the bottom of the hanging basin on the South face with a big tree at the base. The rock gets better and better, and soon you're padding up smooth, frictiony red slabs. Follow the obvious path of good rock surrounded by a sea of choss. I got wigged out by some blank slabs and cut back to the ridge before the good rock ran out. Next time I'll take rock shoes. Views are nice up there with a clear shot into the Chimney Rock area. Nicer view than The Tooth. Descended the standard route, a well-marked talus trail, which gets you to the main trail. My time was around 3 hours, car to car. That involved some trail running. chucK