chucK

Saying 5.10 is not moderate (I agree with that) does not imply that 5.6 is moderate. There's a big gap between 5.10 and 5.6. My view of "moderate" is somewhere strictly within that range. Are you saying that if a route relies on self-placed pro it is automatically excluded from the novice category? Your description (3 pitches, gear) basically makes every climb at the Gunks at least a moderate. Are there no novice climbs at the Gunks? Where does a novice do his/her first lead at the Gunks? I think our first lead at the Gunks was "Baby", 5.3 at the Gunks, probably 5.6 out here in the West.

This is twice now with the "truly moderate" label. If Midway is considered a moderate, then what do you guys consider a beginner/novice climb?

MVS media!

Way to go Iain! And all you other rescuers too.

Climb: The Tooth!-South Face Date of Climb: 4/2/2004 Trip Report: Went up and bagged the Tooth on Friday putting my virgin BC ski skills to the test. Skinned up next to the "DO NOT ENTER" path. Stayed in the trees for a long time to see what the skins could/couldn't do, and to try to follow the rules. Also didn't want to get creamed by a downhill skier. Snow conditions were soft, but mostly pretty easy. The usual gulley to access the South Face looked too difficult for me (steep snow on slopey rock right under a big cornice) so I skied up over the gap that heads toward Alpental and skied down and around, then postholed up to near Pineapple Pass. South Face is all dry except for the 3rd class part. About 50 feet of unavoidable snow. Descended the South Face and met a couple of boarders who were about to climb. They took the lifts up. Supposedly they didn't have to pay. They explained their plan to the ticket seller and they let 'em slide for one ride. Pretty cool. They didn't like the looks of the cornice in the usual access gulley so they followed my trail. Found some cliffy way to get back to the notch without losing as much altitude but still had to do a climb up through mush to get to the notch. By that time around 4 or so, there were about 8 or more people milling around at that notch. I guess the Great Scott Bowl must be a popular last run. Nice skiing back down, especially in the shadow of The Tooth Gear Notes: BC skis ice axe approach shoes (for South Face) Zappa tape to make it through the traffic during pledge week on NPR Approach Notes: Usual approach gulley currently blocked.

More to fuel the fires! According to this story: Another "whistleblower" says she translated documents that indicated using planes to hit skyscrapers. Now the Bush administration is allegedly trying to put a gag order on her.

So if anybody wants to go climb something Friday, tomorrow, don't PM me . Use the email. cspieker at comcast dawt net

missle defense skewing the commission?

Yeah, what he said and what about the NE Buttress? Perhaps that is melted out enough to be doable as a rock/snow climb?

Why? He/she looks happy as hell! Happy is a good thing.

I put "chair" in for subject and "last two weeks" for timeframe and I got nothing (about chair peak). Now what Pax?

Study design issues aside, the study does not say that "Stretching Doesn't Prevent Injuries!" What it says is "These data don't present conclusive evidence that Stretching Does Prevent Injuries".

Yeah you don't do it like that in real life. You only do it on the internet. Typical internet dweeb.

OK good point. Then let's bring it to infractions where noone is inconvenienced one iota. For example, carefully driving through a red light at 4 am after verifying that noone is around? Or perhaps driving in the carpool lane when noone is in the carpool lane and traffic is moving smoothly in the SOV lanes. I posit noone is hurt or potentially hurt by these actions. Though there are many traffic nazi's who would get all bent out of shape about these things. Are you one of them?

What I am talking about is actions that do not hurt others at all, or perhaps by an infinitesimal amount. I do not consider an action of this type, one that affects noone adversely, to be inconsiderate. Why do you?

That's the type of shit I absolutely hate. The pricks who, even though they know they are only going to be inconvenienced by ".007 seconds" think it is their duty to stop those terrible lawbreakers for no other reason than, "he's breaking a law that I don't have the balls to". Fuck off traffic nazi Scott

What about the rules regulating respecting peoples' personal property (e.g. do not steal peoples' carabiners off of their backpacks even if they don't look like they're climbers)?

I think Arizoner is either on DST or ST all year round.

I got the day off on Friday. Anybody up for climbing or peakbagging or skiing or both? Limitations: rehabbing a rotator cuff, so would like to limit climbing to slabby or easier juggy stuff if steep. No hanging and twisting off of hand jams please. Would like to enjoy the sun. Just got backcountry skis, so could go ski something, but I'm a newbie in terms of avalanche awareness and I don't got no beeper. Static Point (you'd need a mountain bike)? Tooth? Dreamer ?? Castle Rock? Slabby L'worth stuff? Anybody know if Garfield is melted out yet? [your suggestion here]? Send me a PM if interested.

There's always the classic, "How does this fucking [insert belay device here] work again? Damnit! I can never figure this out!"

Hey Ken, You looking for someone to carpool with?

I always enjoyed that Al Pine fellow. Check this one out, or this one was pretty good too. Oh, back in the day, *sigh*. Too bad they banned that guy.

I think you only wanna use a directional when bringing up a second if 1) you are very confident the directional is strong enough to hold both you and your partner in a toprope fall and 2) if you have a feeling that the second is gonna be doing a lot of hanging on the rope. Although this is not really to the point since if we had 1) we wouldn't have a sketchy belay.

No monetary compensation Fern, but you do get the awesome reward of being a HERO for saving civilization from degradation and destruction. Also, calling the narc number won't get you put in jail like running someone off the road or shooting 'em will.