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Bad Thai Cops to Endure Hello Kitty Shame

I think this is a better way to do it. pitch rating boltcount 1 5.7 50 2 5.9 18 3 5.10A 16 4 5.8 25 5 5.10B 17 6 5.8 18 7 5.9 11 8 5.9 14 With about 20 draws you'll need to skip a few clips on pitch 1, or perhaps break it into two pitches (I think we did both).

How about this one? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3467&size=big&cat=&si=snow%20creek%20wall

Couldn't you drink beer by just pouring it out and carefully sucking on a big floating bubble of beer... ohhoho yeah!

Coming down that thing last weekend, it looked to me like one could easily walk below that spine on climber's right, then climb up a little gully about 15 feet to get back on the ridge. That would make much more sense if one was bringing a newbie up there, as then the rope would be above the newbie at the point when a fall was even remotely possible. But that wouldn't be quite as aesthetic or exciting, and you want to show your clients a good time!

DON'T SELL IT BUG!!!!1 YOU'LL GET UP BACKBONE YET!!!!!!

I just checked, Columbia Distributing on Swan Island has this in stock. 3 case minimum. $143.00/case (~$6 per bottle). Seems a little steep. 20% alcohol seems like it'd take it outa the "beer" category for me. How do they get it so strong? Do they add everclear or distill it? I thought wine was the strongest stuff ~14% that you can get with natural fermentation (at which point the alcohol content kills the yeast)? ~6$/bottle would not be especially expensive wine (which this stuff basically is!)

I got a better idea. People on MountainProject.com should put links in the route database to TR's on cascadeclimbers.com! At present people submitting TR's to cc.com can (and sometimes do) link to specific route-info on mp.com. DIY!

Hey nice beta/TR there OFF! This summer would probably be a good time to knock that one off, being as the bridge is out. When the basin is filled with the usual massive amounts of sight-seers, some climbers up above might cause some unwanted commotion. I was there with family and friends playing around on the snow one crowded summer weekend. At one point this ranger came out and ordered everybody off of the snow. He was telling us it was an avalanche zone. People slow to comply were threatened with citations. I would bet a couple of climbers heading right up above the masses would really cause consternation with Mr. Ranger. Our trip was before the caves opened up, but I'll bet once those babies appear, the rangers really have their hands full keeping people out of the those. At that point the rangers would probably be even more unappreciative of climbers setting a "poor example". If you had the time, you could add the first 5 or so high-quality pitches of the Tower 1 route to your day, though that might be a bit wet at present.

I got some good info there on Castle Crags and Red Rocks. It's pretty handy for getting an idea about distant crags. Seems pretty limited in terms of WA information at the moment, but that probably all OUR fault!

10b ("b" for burly) Nope, no Dolphin Chimney, if that's what you mean.

Yesterday Otto and I did the SW Rib to that finger crack presented by Mythosgirl then to the Boving Roofs of the NW Face Route (SEWS). Highly recommended! The purple is what we did. Have to do a bit of a backtrack/downclimb to link the finger crack pitch with the roofs pitch, but it was well worth it. One exceptionally nice feature for yesterday was that all the belays were in shady alcoves.

Car shuttle is extreme! I'd much rather spend two pleasant hours walking in the mountains than spend 4 extra hours driving (plus 2 cars = 2 times more gas and CO2 emissions). There's no way the car shuttle is faster if you count the extra hours logged driving (unless you are a VERY slow hiker) You can leave the axes/poons at home if you do the Teanaway approach (assuming late-season and complete NR).

Nice job guys. As far as the trail goes, I think you might have started up a bit too soon. The trail leaves from an old campsite (used to have big fire ring) soon after the dry streambed. When we went up there two years ago, we had a bit of trouble finding the trail on the far side of the dry streambed. I think it's a bit down the dry streambed rather than up.

Yes, I guess I was a bit imprecise. I don't doubt one could avoid most of the snow. But on the descent I was searching out snow, rather than avoid, to glissade (much easier than downclimbing talus!). Though the snow was quite soft, I probably wouldn't have wanted to do it without an axe.

This might be too late, but I went up there and did the West Ridge today. Not any significant snow problems. I had an axe and soft boots. Most of the snow on the West Ridge is avoidable. There is one pretty steep unavoidable bit right after LJ Tower or the West horn. The North side bypass on the upper ridge remarkably is not snow-covered. There is lots of snow (unavoidable) on the CC descent.

Goode Tuolumne

He said "has a brain" not whether it can think. If being able to think were a criteria, you would be a leading candidate for the new post-natal abortion.

statuatory caps on liability: might not be a problem. The reason we need malpractice liability nowadays is because it is the only effective defense our society has versus inept or criminal caregivers. If a single payer system evolved, a fuck-up or shifty doctor would have to worry about getting fired from the only game in town. That seems like an effective deterrent (plus malpractice liability at whatever level it is capped) effect on innovation: most innovation is currently funded by the government. That wouldn't change. Might even get better. Yes we would lose some of the incentive for big companies to innovate in big-money chronic meds that people may or may not need (i.e. cholesterol, blood-pressure, erectile dysfunction, toenail fungus, and tooth-whitening meds). More emphasis will be placed on preventing and curing over chronic dependency. misallocation of resources: obviously if you think a single-payer system will make it harder to get care than today, then you are definitely either in a higher tax bracket and/or are young and healthy and don't need to see a doctor much. The system can only get better for the poor and needy. Though I think you are correct in that it could get inconvenient for those in the higher tax-brackets (for two reasons) and people that don't get sick. JayB, your pronunciations are nothing more than dire predictions extrapolated from worst-case scenarios, though you present them as self-evident truths. How do you explain the fact that so many other countries do better than us in many areas? We are the richest country in the world. How do you explain how we are not doing BETTER than every country in the world?

I usually make a clippable water bottle out of a 12-20 oz plastic pop/water bottle (and one of those handy spouts) using some duct tape and old bail webbing scrounged from the Tooth. I make about one per season, as they start to get pretty gross around late September. I clip them on my pack WHERE I CAN REACH IT when I'm hiking (with a keylock biner). Clipping to shoulder straps work pretty well. The bottle can get annoying bouncing around when it's full or too big, so if I'm running or moving fast, I'll just hold it in my hand. For climbing, just clip to harness. I've been using disposable water bottles like this for a number of years now. I regularly crush them when empty to save space, inflate them again for use, and generally mistreat them. Over many years of this practice and frequent reuse of bottles, only once has one sprung a slight slow leak, and it still worked OK till the end of the day. Also, those big two-liter pop bottles make great lightweight water containers for around camp and also work well for those rare occasions in the Cascades when you actually want to be hauling around two full liters of water in your pack. They're totally lightweight, amazingly durable (see comment above about excellent record of non-breakage) and take almost no space when crushed down. I've often toyed with getting one of those waterbag dealies, figuring it would make me all fast and light. They defintely seem like they would be tons better when moving fast (i.e. jogging). But after reading all these comments I think maybe I'll spend my REI dividend on titanium sporks.

What an excellent and inspiring Father's-Day post! Thanks. Nice job Ulee, and Porter, Kat and Jeff.

Hey! Does anybody know if Golden Gardens is one of those cell-phone black holes? That is, do you have experience lately in using (or trying to use) your cell at Golden Gardens? Thanks!

Pandora's Box, from MVS's page

what about "hairway to steven" on the walk-off?