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Everything posted by chucK
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Oh the scandal! The hypocrisy! That's almost as bad as a closet homosexual stirring up hatred of other homosexuals in order to get elected or to get people to donate money to his church! Oh wait...no it's not.
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PLEASE BE MORE PERFECT WHEN ENTERTAINING ME!!!!1
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1. I'd be much more happy if at least people would spell it as one word "superfun". 2. I'd really be happy if those people who interject "y'know" between every 3 or 4 words (you know who you are, maybe) would use "superfun" instead. Though I suppose the novelty would erode. 3. And finally, PEOPLE, permit me to interject a pet-peeve of my own. Do you realize that NOONE CARES if the trip currently under report has been "on your list"? The person reporting the superfun trip does not really need the validation that you had considered this to possibly be an outing worthy of your time. And you don't get ANY credit for thinking of it first. You are spraying into the ether with this reply, and wasting oh so valuable space on cc.com. If you wish to stroke the trip reporter, much more effective would be, "Wow! That looks [insert adjective]. That climb is NOW on my list." This implies that the trip looks desirable AND that the trip report is well done. Thank you for your attention.
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[TR] Mt Stuart - West Ridge Speed Climb 9/21/2007
chucK replied to off_the_hook's topic in Alpine Lakes
You're lines drawn in above prompted me to look back at the other pictures. Where is this taken? That's Stuart Lake in the background, which should pretty much be behind the summit from anywhere on the West Ridge. I'm really confused now. OK, now it looks like you guys might be very near the summit. Did you traverse around left (to the North side) then climb back up SW to the crest? -
Have fun at the crux on Princely!
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I've tried that and it works great, but my insurance company won't pay for this placebo stuff.
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south face prusik and split pillar questions
chucK replied to skibum1087's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Dude, you're freaking out over nothing. You're gonna die. Bring two #3's for either of these climbs -
Castle Rock: Loose block on Winter Solstice
chucK replied to catbirdseat's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
greenbacks or loonies? -
Castle Rock: Loose block on Winter Solstice
chucK replied to catbirdseat's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Dru, you've just put yourself on any future indictment! Conspiracy to commit negligent manslaughter. -
What is there to climb at the Mid Wall beside Plum Pudding (great ) and Robin's Ramp (blech! )?
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One February day I remember hemming and hawing for a half hour at that spot on Princely where you have to cast off from the big flake and head out right on that sequence of polished nubbins. My poor belayer probably froze. I think of that spot as quite heady. The fall would probably be inconsequential(out into space) but the hollow thunks you get when banging on the big flake your pro is behind does not ease the mind. Godzilla's not very heady if you jam the "lieback" flake. Just jam that shit and sew it up! The bottom moves are a bit heady but much easier than 9. Probably best to wait for a day/time when that part is dry. Did the tree removal alleviate the slime problem down there?
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Here's the actual NY Times editor's comments. Is it just me or does it have a little different feel than the Fox piece that summarized it?
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Castle Rock: Loose block on Winter Solstice
chucK replied to catbirdseat's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Even if noone is around you could get really unlucky and end up killing someone driving by on Hwy 2. -
At what stage of life are you? Tri-weekly try weekly try weakly ?
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Yep. I guess if I am wearing a pack I usually stuff one of those Tacoma Mtn. Rescue tube tent thingies in there, and I usually have a lighter with me. It is empirically obvious that Mary Wingfield brought enough gear to survive five nights out!
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[TR] Mt Stuart - West Ridge Speed Climb 9/21/2007
chucK replied to off_the_hook's topic in Alpine Lakes
I hear this frequently, the part about eliminating breaks. But it's not like those breaks don't help you. That is, I doubt you'd have been an entire 35 minutes faster by just tagging the summit and continuing on. You could certainly better your time by rolling the dice and soloing, but obviously you didn't. Seems like a very sound decision to me. Significantly increasing your risk of death clearly seems like a very steep price to pay for a quicker time report. I respect your decision, but it does seem a bit silly to imply that you could have done it quicker. Doing it quicker would have required doing something that you weren't willing to do. Maybe next time. If you didn't have the icy conditions up top, it may have been more feasible to go ropeless. Also, there is a way to avoid any fifth class on the final summit block (i.e. that crux near the top with the fixed pin). You can corkscrew around the summit going up and around ledges to the left, then squeezing behind a big block, which puts you just below the summit to the NW. -
There was a good perspective of why she may not have stayed put over on nwhikers.net. Basically, it's tough (especially for someone who has confidence in their outdoor skills) to know when to really give up, realize you're not helping yourself by moving, and consign your fate to the rescue attempt that may or may not be happening. I myself would err on the side of continuing to try to find my way out if I had told everybody that my hiking plan was many miles to the South. That is, in a situation where it may be quite a while 'til anyone even knows the correct county to be searching. Seems like she tried the mitigate the negative aspects of staying on the move by leaving that trail of notes. And as for leaving her overnight gear in the car...I do this all the time (actually I leave my overnight gear at home) if I am planning just a short day trip. It may bite me in the ass someday, but unlikely. I'll trade the < 1% chance of getting stung by this decision for the freedom of not bringing a packload of gear every time I head up to the Tooth. Builder206 is probably one of those guys/gals you see heading up to Snow Lake on a sunny morning in August sweating under full brush-bashing regalia and a 30 lb pack .
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[TR] Mt Stuart - West Ridge Speed Climb 9/21/2007
chucK replied to off_the_hook's topic in Alpine Lakes
Yeah speedy, especially for an onsight. But you don't yet hold the unofficial cc.com speed record ( speedy Steve Stuart summit)! What was your route between Ingalls Lake and the base of the ridge? Did you stay on the ridge or descend to the trail? Or other? -
just heard it on broadcast
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If you're in Seattle just head out to the UW Rock. You can get back-foot chimneying down pretty well between the Tower and the wall just SW of it. All you really need for the chimney cruxes on Epi is confidence on easy back-foot chimneying (since there's a good bit of that on Epi, and it's a bit runout). Practice at the UW Rock, and try out Damnation Crack (the chimney on that is similar, easy but runout). The Lizard chimney at Index is harder than anything on Epinephrine.
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I can't believe anybody would recommend that Curran book on K2. Fuck what a terrible writer that guy is. Although he had great material to work with, the story read like the worst of the blow-by-blow stale-cardboard internet trip reports. Boring non-descriptive, repetive details went on for a couple hundred pages, replete with all too frequent whining about his various camera equipment malfunctions. An account of a mountain disaster it is. Prose it ain't.