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This is a good picture for describing Doug's Direct (of Jo'burg fame) if you are using it to approach the mountain.

Where are these Leepers on Online anyway? Perhaps there's one or two off to the side, or acting as a third or fourth bolt near an anchor, but I've never found a need to clip to any Leepers on Online. If they are there, they may be garbage but not they're not dangerous (an attractive nuisance at the worst).

I would politely disagree with the idea of setting up a huge toprope that will bung up every single route at an extremely popular area on a weekend. In fact, I would suggest the opposite. That from the RR bolts you lead up through the midpoint anchors all the way to the top. There's really only one comfy place to stand at those midpoint anchors, two at most. Sharing it with other parties blows.

What?! No pic of the broken, swollen foot? ...cc.com standards are slipping Nice job getting out on your own. Hope all goes well with the treatment/recovery.

There's rap bolts now up in grove de los arboles muertes. From the top of the sickle crack you can scramble up left onto the big split block then up the groove listed as 5.4 on the topo above directly below the lower "89". From that 5.4 groove you can traverse around right on ledges above the buttlips to toprope or to access Taurus. You can also make an exposed (but easy) step around left to get to the 5.6 part of Pisces. If you really want to get there from the RR bolts you can traverse right under Libra Crack and climb some steep jumbled blocky stuff up onto the split block (then continue as explained above) Not in the above topo, but the last pitch of #87 above now has two replaced bolts out on the arete (goes at about 5.7). Don't miss the last pitch of #89 above either. It's balancy and fun (TCU's are good to have).

http://www.parks.wa.gov/parkpage.asp?selectedpark=Beacon+Rock You mean the Beacon rock that's on the north side of the Columbia? your link doesn't work

yes but in a self-deprecating way

That's been done already ( worst climb thread), and didn't go anywhere. This thread is much different. Answer the damn poll and stop bitching about semantics. This is valuable market research. I'm gonna get paid good money for this. Gonna buy me some camalots.

Obviously you Portlanders don't know your geography. The ironic thing is that you didn't even catch that I put Beacon Rock in Washington too.

Oh, and I do think I agree with Mark partially. I think STatic probably is the stupidest place to climb in Washington....on a hot sunny day in August. Been there done that.

We are conducting a market research study. Would you like to help inform industry insiders on which crags should stay and which should go? This will only take a few moments of your time!

I claimed no record. But I did do it faster than you. Ha ha.

I think there's TCU placements about 20-30' above and a bit left of the bolt. And Fuddhat/KDR is better, just as long (longer?) and has just as "commanding" a position. It is more sustained, and definitely less convenient to access. Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.

The only place on Online seriously needing a bolt right now is the belay station at the top of the crux pitch. There's a spot or two for good gear (TCU's) on p1. ..and I think Mark is trolling. A3 indeed.

About 2 hours to the base of the North Face One rope will work. Here's a couple of trip reports http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=480876 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=486629

Looks great. So how does Tyrolean work on lead? How does the rope get up there? Is it fixed?

I think you'd agree with me (maybe not?) that we are in a war against extremists who happen to Muslim, and are using their twisted view of Islam to gain followers. We are not (or shouldn't be anyway) fighting all of Islam. To smear all of Islam with Osama and his ilk by inserting Islamo into his their descriptor did not help us in this war, except to possibly bring a restive domestic populace under better control. This whole "clash of civilizations" propaganda is just that. It's brainmush for domestic consumption, and it actually hurts us when these sloppy justifications leak out into the rest of the world. Rereading your previous comment you don't seem to understand my point. I don't think inciting "fear and hatred" of Islam is a policy goal in itself. I think it is being used as a tool to gain domestic support. The great pain they take to distance themselves from this rhetoric when on the world stage shows that they understand that slurs of this type can cause them problems internationally. It's just that they don't have a choice, the public here is turning against them.

Jay is probably correct in his assertion that no official speeches have mentioned that Islam is the root of all evil. However, I do think there are examples where the language used could have been better phrased. The one example that looms large for me is the one-time trendy in the administration buzzword of "Islamofacism". Wouldn't "extremsism", "facism", "religious fanatacism-fueled murder" have gotten the same thing across without specifically skewering Islam? Now, you say, the obvious reason for this is Bush's well-known lack of public-speaking talent. But I think there's a different reasoning. Though "Islamofacism" may have been an unnecessary slur on Islam, that couldn't have done anything but hurt the cause of any US-friendly government of a predominantly Muslim nation (e.g. Pakistan) it did serve another purpose. It served the probably intended purpose of inflaming fear and hatred in the US, in order to prop up the popularity of an ever more indefensible war in Iraq. They used "Islamofacism" to play to those simpletons here in the US of A, who hunger for a final solution. The internet-virus letter in the original post serves the same purpose.

What I wonder is why can't they just use that extra space South of the hwy in Sultan to put in an extra lane. Two lanes through those stoplights would allow double the cars to get through each cycle. Be more like Monroe. Monroe may be bad, but you don't see traffic backed up 20 miles from it like you do in Sultan. Or at least not usually. CJ if you got caught in 20 miles of backups though Monroe, this [click me] is for you.

Hey Fairweather, You're babbling! Don't you have anything better to do with your vacation?

Bush was visited by the ghost of Christmas Future. Decides it's time to start thinking of his legacy and the good of the world instead of just the good of the GOP. Dumps Rove, master of hate politics! Simple?

He's the Left's Hillary!

Excellent trip report and nice pictures. Way to bag some long climbs! I have a couple of questions about the approach: 1. I see some "normal" looking cars in the parking lot. Would a Honda Accord have any/much trouble getting up there? 2. What are the specs for getting from parking lot to Applebee Camp? Would it be feasible to just keep humping up to the Pigeon/Howser Col from the parking lot?

So when you did it, back in the day, how run out was it?

I didn't climb the pitch in question, but did rap it. It looks pretty run out. It looks like totally smooth slab that you just have to trust your feet and go. Probably not too bad until the last 10 meters where the angle steepens. At that point you would be pretty far above your last bolt, and still have to get a way up the steepness before clipping again. On the bright side, there's nothing really to hit...unless you started tumbling. (Please make allowances for imperfect memory!) There's nothing even close to that run out on Dreamer (especially at that difficulty).