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Trip: Mount Higgins - From the South Trip Date: 02/06/2026 Trip Report: This lack of powder is starting to grate on me, but at least we have some backyard mountains that are still beautiful despite the dearth of snow. Mount Higgins (Ska-dulvas) is among them. Despite many trips in the area over the past 30 years I had never been to the true summit of Higgins. It seems like, in the past few years, many ascents have come from the south via FR 1891 rather than from the Round Mountain trail (which was the former "standard" route). Being that it was winter, and the 18 road was likely blocked by snow patches, @Trent and Adam and I cast off into our own unknown on a beautiful Friday morning. In short, this is a pleasant trip. About 2 miles of brush-free road (thanks to the locals for cutting this out regularly) past a gate led to a turn off into a beautiful old Doug Fir grove, just along the west edge of an old clear cut. Several parties before us left the road into the clear-cut, but I think it better to walk a bit more and hit the older timber before ascending. And ascend you will! About 4k straight up steepening forest (open, thankfully) to a rib of sandstone that breaks up into a boulder field right before the ridge. As short walk along that and boom, the summit! It took us about 3 hours from the car to the top. The views were grand, and maybe grander, than expected, extending all across the North Cascades to the Sound (Whulge) and Olympics. The North Fork Stillaguamish is no slouch, as beautiful as the two maidens that fought over Qua-hae-eths (Round Mountain) so many years ago. Unlike the Indian legend, we had a peaceful time up high on Higgins, and delayed descending for almost an hour, enjoying the windless and weird warmth of an early February day. We hadn't hit snow on the way up until almost 4500' and didn't see more than about 4-5' of snow at the 5100' summit. It felt more like a late spring day up there, but I'll take any "winter" summit in the North Cascades! Adam and @trent heading for the summit ridge: Whitehorse (So-bahli-ahli) Skadulgwas (or Ska-dulvas): Adam chugging uphill: North Fork Valley and Whitehorse: Adam and @Trent on the summit: Looking up the NF Sauk to Sloan, with Jumbo on the right: Whitechuck and Glacier (Dakobed): Heading a short distance down to our lunch spot: Descending, with Skadulgwas and the NF Stillaguamish below: Beautiful Doug Fir and ferns on the lower slopes of Higgins: Brushed out FR 1891: Gear Notes: ice axe, crampons, maybe snowshoes in different conditions. Approach Notes: 371st to Valley View Road (FR 1891) for a few miles and then up!

There is a new subtraction from the road at the same recent cave-in (2020 just above the new parking lot. This winter a cave-in removed about half of the remaining road at this spot. A barrier has appeared within sight of the parking lot. I doubt if many people will want to drive around this one. Otherwise, the Squire Creek road to Trail #654 is in unchanged condition. I rode my bicycle up there yesterday, Friday, Feb. 6, 2026. I found only two logs which will require a return trip with the axe. I removed many branches and rotten logs. As always, the principle is to remove anything that would require a bicyclist to dismount. It was my first training day of the New Year, so glad to get out and stretch. The new barrier, just above the parking lot: After: Before: After, with the big alder waiting for the axe: Before:

Just imagine if you could zoom into the full res originals on a good monitor! The new camera and glass that I splurged on this winter has been a bit of a revelation. I should have done this glass upgrade 20 years ago but it took that long to wear down the Finance Minister!

Holy `@#%@#$!` the detail in these pictures is freaking amazing.

@JasonG I've seen a lot of pictures of the Cascades in my life but these might be some of the best. I would probably be interested in a book if one was made. A skier from Tacoma named Thatcher made a book of his images that turned out really well, he may have some advice.

Trip: Banks Lake - Spice Rack M10+ (a Salt and Pepper direct start) Trip Date: 02/17/2025 Trip Report: This line struck me the first time I visited banks. By no means an original thought, every mixed climbing pervert who ever drove by also looked at it and felt their pants tighten. How we got so lucky came down to three factors: great weather, getting passed over on a trip to the Rockies (I’m over it now), and JJ’s advertisement of his OnlyFans during a UIAA comp- resulting in a season ban. Looking for a cathartic substitute we pivoted to suffering upward. For the uninitiated, Salt and Pepper is the existing WI5 line conventionally approached via a short 5th class traverse from the left. This direct start provides two amazing mixed pitches and 15-25m of bonus ice depending on the main dagger's condition. Weekend 1: @ColonelCrag aka Christian Junkar, and JJ, aka Jedrzej Jablonski began this attempt’s reconnaissance in early Feb, aiding the start of pitch 1 to assess feasibility, then rap bolting an intermediate anchor at the dagger, along with a few permadraws in the roof. I joined for a caffeine induced day trip from Seattle, attempting to lead from the bottom. Several whips and rock releases later, the drill came up pitch 1. With dwindling sun, the p1 highpoint was fixed with an orange rope. Salt and Pepper’s main dagger was the biggest we’ve ever seen, adding 25m of ice climbing to the standard route. Weekend 2, Day 1: (More Development) Government Worker's Weekend (previously known as Presidents’) provided an ideal weather window with a cold snap in the single digits followed by several days of stabilizing temps. As expected, the dagger snapped. Left, right and middle towards the wall cleaved off, leaving just the optimal contact area at the wall and a thin curtain with a shower in the middle. Maybe 10m of bonus ice disappeared, forcing the line to continue further up the p2 rock roof, gaining the ice with several overhanging moves. The fixed orange rope had been buried by the breaking dagger, with perhaps 15m of it claimed by fallen ice. The visible rope was cut, leaving the buried rope to be fished out from the fall’s pool in summertime. We continued the development with Tom bolting bottom up and leading some sections, JJ bolting top-down, we met at the p1 anchor… dodging icefall from the roof releasing throughout the day. Typing this a week later, I still feel my back from top-stepping aiders while bolting overhead in the p1 roof. Meanwhile, Christian was rewarded for his patient belay with a micro-trax solo of the first two pitches on a fixed line and cleaned as much as possible with the given daylight. Day 2: (Send day) We slept in and began around noon. Christian led pitch 1 and easily danced up the pitch while tossing loose rocks over his shoulder. Having recently competed in finals at the Ouray Mixed Comp, his base strength and finesse made it look much easier than reality. JJ followed, while clipping a second single rope for me as the third, allowing us to “siege” or “caterpillar” the line. We opted for two single ropes as opposed to twins, for the ease of manipulation in the p2 roof. In retrospect, either method would work fine- though a twin rope might have too much give if you fell while following in the p2 roof to get back on. The pitch 1 dagger and subsequent traverse remain exposed to falling rock and ice and act as a decisive hazard crux following the technical crux. At the p1 anchor, we hauled a pig via tag line on the last climber. (The pig rested on the far right side of the anchor ledge, waiting to be tagged up to the p2 anchor belay cave. This pig contained water, snax, and normal boots and pons for JJ and CJ, who opted to wear comp boots for p1 and p2. I opted to wear normal boots and my standard 1100g development pons, and was not prepared for the resultant level of suffering.) JJ boldly led out p2, with delicate feet and only minor grunting in the power crux (a full stretch stein to v-notch). Leading the final 15m of ice in comp boots and no secondaries must have been terrible, considering the ice required heavy cleaning. JJ might have placed a single screw in the ice, then levitated to the belay cave on the right side. Once we gathered at p2 anchor, the pig joined us, only getting caught briefly on the dagger. With happy feet we finished the ice pitches about 4:30pm, the only snag being a brutal 3-man rope pull from the ground. The intermediate anchor needs improvement as noted elsewhere. Beers and ice cream followed, celebrating both the send and our luck. Route P1 M8+ 30m 8 bolts, 2-3 screws, 2 knife blades, .2-.4; belay from a bolt and ice screws on the ledge to the left of the first bolt. 10’ of choss gives way to better rock and generous bolts, then gains the left side of the dagger to the shelf, going right to one more bolt and connecting ice blobs to the upper shelf. Stubbies or knifeblades would be helpful in the upper ice. Bolted belay ledge includes a rap ring for bail. A single 60m can rap to the ledge, walking / downclimbing the rest of the way. P2 M10+ 30m 4 screws, 10 bolts, 7 permadraws… so bring 2 draws for hangers without permas, and draws for screws. We placed 2 screws and used 2 at the anchor. Climb rock for a move or two up towards the first bolt until you can step onto the dagger left. Traverse daggers for a couple of moves (screw optional) and then enter the roof following bolts leading to the upper dagger. Recommended to go left on the dagger and then back right to belay in a cave on the right of the main flow. This route could be aided after the starting dagger. P3 wi5 main flow P4 10m wi4 3min walk to the back of your lazy susan where the forgotten spices and flours remain untouched. Rap: V-thread from the top of P4. Bolted anchor on top of p3 to the right side. Double 60 to intermediate rap chains (located where p2 gains ice on the right side of the flow. This anchor needs fixing… the 6mm chain was too short and makes for high friction pull (3 men, 1 rope). Second ascent party should add quick links compatible with 6mm chain and rap rings. From here, a double 60m rap easily touches down. Gear Notes: Screws, KBs, .2-.4, draws, double 60m. Approach Notes: Start at the back of the cave, expect ice/rock shedding until at the start.

I've heard good things about both, but all the clubs are only as good as who is currently helping teach. So, none of my intel is very current I'm afraid.... Good luck, there is a long history of good experiences with basic climbing courses! I got my start in 1999's Mountaineers Basic class, where I met my wife....and the rest is history.