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  1. 2 points
    Me, Andy, Joel and Fred climbed Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier route the weekend of the 9th-10th. We took skis (and a split board) to within a few hundred feet of the summit, carrying them for only the first 2 miles of trail walking. It was strange to travel up into such warmer weather with the inversion going on. It was winter at Baker Lake, the lower parts of the mountain were spring like, and the summit was wintry again. We camped at the normal glacier camp on Saturday after getting an alpine start of 10:45 am from the TH. With the winter darkness setting in I think we went to bed about 6 or 7 pm, it was sweet to sleep for so long. Up at 5, moving at 6 we skinned up wind crust and crud to maybe a third of the way up the summit pyramid before switching to crampons and axes. Fred led the booting all the way to the top through wind crust on top of pow on top of verglas. The summit was amazing, quiet, lonely, and calm! After a somewhat mediocre upper portion the bottom half of the Sulphide was pretty good skiing due to the sun having warmed the wind crud. My light mountaineering skis were sub par in the crud, but everyone had fun. Back at camp at 11:30 for lunch and water in t-shirts. We did a combination of strategies on the descent, but two of us skied all the way to the dirt on the trail traverse below 3000' before booting it to the car. I think it is safe to say a good time was had by all! It was amazing to have the mountain to ourselves for like 28 hours. Views were fantastic and weather/conditions darn good. I was particularly glad to make it since I was 0-2 on ski attempts on this route. Hiking in wearing long underwear: Skinning up the ridge: Sunrise: Summit gully: Summit views:
  2. 2 points
    Trip: Mt Thompson - West Ridge Trip Date: 12/09/2017 Trip Report: Jake and I took advantage of the high pressure and big inversion to climb Mt Thompson over the weekend. We hiked in Friday night and camped on a flat spot on the ridge below Kendall Peak and before the Katwalk. Hiking up in the dark was easy, with the bonus of shortening up the long winter night sleep. We arose at dawn and made our way along the surprisingly easy to follow PCT. Snowed over Kendall Katwalk: First view of Thompson: From Bumblebee Pass: The route was mostly dry, although moves on the north side of the ridge had some snow/ice on them. The very first move of the entire route perplexed us for a bit as we debated on boots/gloves vs crampons/tools. In the end Jake led it with the steel assist while I gingerly followed without: The next three pitches were quite good on warm rock with a bit of snow/ice on ledges and in cracks. Spring like climbing in December! The easy pitch from the false summit to the summit is on the north side and was full on winter conditions and added nicely to the climb: Views for days on top: Two raps and some slogging back had us drinking whiskey at the tent by 9PM. Easy hike out Sunday morning. The inversion layer was startling, especially with how defined the temperature line was. ~5000' temps dropped 10-15 degrees over the course of a few steps. Gear Notes: tools & crampons, snowshoes for the approach Approach Notes: PCT
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Trip: Ireland - South Peak of Skellig Michael Trip Date: 08/23/2017 Trip Report: Back in the summer I made a Hail Mary request for a partner to join me in Ireland to climb on the island of Skellig Michael. This is the place that was featured in the climax of Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens and will receive considerably more screen time in the soon-to-be-released Episode VIII: The Last Jedi. That's right, I was seeking a partner to fly with me across the Atlantic to Ireland, in order to climb a two hundred foot crag of undistinguished Class 4 sandstone. Not for the climb itself. Because high on the peak there is a secret hermitage, a series of ledges where an extremely badass monk (or more likely a succession of badass monks across several centuries) lived out his life alone on a crag, on a tiny sea island, full in the teeth of the Atlantic wind. It would certainly be technically possible to do this climb solo, with an acceptable margin of risk, except that access to this peak is strictly regulated, and in order to get approved, you have to have a partner - - although the agency in charge expects both of you to climb unroped. Strangely, no one at cc.com took me up on the offer. So 'I joined two mountaineering clubs across the Atlantic, one in Ireland and one in the UK, and posted on their partners forum. I got a couple of responses and worked out logistics with one Peter O'Toole. I had a three day weather window, and ended up needing all 3 days. On the third day, conditions were iffy. Peter was short on funds. It costs 75 Euro for a boat ticket to and from the island. At the last minute he bailed. But this was OK, because by then I'd come to know the guides on Skellig Michael (not climbing guides, guides to the heritage site there) and I knew they'd probably let me climb it alone. The head guide Claire said the rocks were still too wet. But before she could refuse me access, Brendan O'Connor from the lighthouse road crew stepped up and offered to join me as my guide. He had done plenty of high-angle rope work on South Peak and knew its routes by heart. I made it to the summit and, more important, was able to see the dwelling place of a real-life, historic Last Jedi. It's all here. First image = Skellig islands from the mainland. Great Skellig is the larger of the two. South Peak is the high point. Second image = view from the summit, looking eastward across Little Skellig toward the mainland. If you look closely you can see the drystone huts of the monastery on the right skyline across the gap. Gear Notes: Helmet Rope used in a few places, one person tied in by the waist and the other using natural pro, no anchors; mainly to ease the mind of the guide that granted us permission Approach Notes: Apply for permission to climb through Ireland's Office of Public Works Wait several months Fly to Ireland Drive several hours to village of Portmagee, County Kerry Take a boat to Skellig Michael -- tickets sell out in advance, but if you book at The Moorings, a B&B in town, they sometimes hold tickets in reserve for guests While you wait for the weather to clear, enjoy the freshest seafood you've ever eaten
  5. 1 point
    Trip: Diamond Peak, Oregon - Pioneer Gulch Trip Date: 12/10/2017 Trip Report: My work weekend was pleasantly interrupted by an invite to try Diamond Peak on Saturday. I, being the goodie-two-shoes, still had a stockpile of unused sick pay (thank you Kate Brown) and called in with low-altitude Edema; the only cure being a sharp increase in elevation. We were hoping for good snow, so we brought the snowboards with us. The road to Pioneer Gulch trailhead had some moderate coverage but we made it to the trail head with no problems. Once into the forest, the snow disappeared until about 6500ft, so we had to bear the full weight of the snowshoes, crampons, and snowboards on our backs. There was a crazy temperature inversion, so it was T-shirt Weather up until about 7500ft. I only brought 64oz of water, so I was constantly packing my half full water bottles up with snow. Finally hit some snow on the North side of a ridge. Trees started thinning out and the snow was like spring conditions. We tried pulling the snowshoes off and went about 10 feet before punching through some meltout around some boulders, so back on they went. Almost to the summit ridge - Looking South at Thielsen. Manny packing up the ridge. We ditched the snowboards just below the summit ridge, and switched over to crampons. There was more ice and crusty stuff, so we definitely were glad we brought the spikes. Summit! Looking North at Hood, Jefferson, the 3 Sisters, Bachelor, and Willamette Pass. Heading back down the ridge. Sun starting to set, snowboards out, and Joe with his 9000 lb pack. Finally hit the flats, so no more snowboarding. Final mile in the dark. Left the car at 7:30am, back to the car at 5:20pm. We went slow, but we blame that on the conditions and the weight of all the gear with the snowboards. Overall it was great day to be on the mountain. This was my first fall/winter climb and felt more like spring. Gear Notes: Snowshoes needed from 6500ft to the summit ridge, but hit bands of bare rock. Put some new scratches in my Lightning Ascents. Crampons used once we got to the summit ridge. Snowboards to increase descent speed only worked for 1.5 miles until snow was too thin to continue. Hit several rocks that were hiding just under the surface. Approach Notes: Dirt trail for the first 1.5 miles, patchy snow afterwords.
  6. 1 point
    This is what is to be had on the Eliot right now. Have at it.
  7. 1 point
    The routes on the back side of I Rock are in great shape right now. They looked a little bony from below, but there was ice where you needed it, not too much snow, and fun mixed terrain.
  8. 1 point
    Trip: Broken Top South (9094) and Main - Left Ramp Direct + High Noon Trip Date: 12/10/2017 Trip Report: I wanted to share a little about a recent excursion to Broken Top's Crook Cirque. This is a good venue for winter climbing close to Bend in terms of the routes available. However, it is a long approach (7 miles on rolling terrain) and the Cirque is S facing making it a solar oven in just about any sunny weather. The bad news is that conditions are fickle and hard to nail (this was my 6th time going out there to try climb and only second trip climbing something). The good news is it's a great backcountry ski zone when climbing is out. Hopefully others can learn from my beta and have success/fun. Approach: If overnighting or snow machining park at Dutchman's, Bachelor has started towing unattended vehicles at night. Fastest skin track is the snow machine access road and you might be able to hitch a ride but its not pleasant. The other two options are following xc ski trails or going down to Todd Lake and then through that way. Expect at least 2.5 hours for a fit person on the move nailing route finding. Conditions: This has been the crux for me over the years. The south facing cirque gets way too hot in the sun and the ideal climbing aspects get windloaded and corniced by storms. Luckily routes are generally short and quick so you have three options. 1. Ski out and climb it in the evening, then camp or headlamp it back to the car. 2. Camp out and climb it early. 3. Climb in spindrift on the front end of a storm cycle. This past weekend many small ice flows were in but temps were dangerously high as soon as the sun hit. Route Recs and what I did: -East face of 9094 has plenty of options that are somewhere between Devil's Kitchen Headwall and Eliot Headwall in length and difficulty. Most stuff has been done unless you are into futuristic x-rated choss climbing. Can be badly corniced. -South Face of BT gets the full sun effect, the two routes worth doing IMHO are 11 o'clock couloir to the summit and High Noon Couloir. Both are in Oregon High. High Noon, which I finally did this weekend, has surprisingly good rock. There are possibly other options doable up the main buttress, difficulty hard to determine. Here are some grainy iphone pictures from this weekend to entice those looking for a slog-worthy objective... Crook Cirque , BT S face center, E face 9094 on L E face 9094 (~800ft) Saturday evening Three short but fun ice steps lead into the L of two ramps on E face 9094. L ramp couloir goes through arch to steep snow top out. Views from summit of 9094 Sat evening: top pic L-R N Sis, Jefferson, BT main w/ Hihg Noon Couloir obvious, bottom sunset, walk off on scree to the SW and E down snow gullies. Approaching BT main south face and High Noon Sunday morning. Sketchy ice flow L of High Noon Couli, exposed scree traverse and wet moss top out, solid sticks though and AI3-, traversed into main couli above this. Traversing steep snow into High Noon from top of ice flows. Solid rock at top of High Noon. T-shirt weather at 8am mid December on the south facing aspect. Bare hand rock climbing with pons ensued... a good time. Looking down the crux step (low 5th). Many options on these upper steps. Nice summit views south to 9094 and Bachelor; and north to the Sisters. Gear Notes: Light and climbable AT boots, tools/pons, sun shade hoody and tshirt for the ridiculously hot weather. Approach Notes: Dutchman's through snow machine road, xc trails are slower but less stanky.
  9. 1 point
    Hey Fellas, The roads to get to these ice venues are very tricky 4x4 only jeep trails. If you decide to come out here and visit keep in mind that you will need a sturdy 4x4 with high clearance, chains for all four, skills in driving off-road style steep rocky tracks and tools to get yourself unstuck if you fall short. Living here and climbing in those mountains for decades has given me the opportunities when conditions are good to choose a mode of transportation that works. Later in the season we will switch to snow mobiles but those too are tricky to operate in that terrain and there are MAJOR slide paths that have to be negotiated. At one point the pine creek road crux is just below a restriction near the base of a 2200 foot slide path and this is where you will end up stuck and digging nervously as there is no escaping if it slides. The routes can be fun, almost always form but if I did not live here, I would go to Canada as the climbing isn't really that worthy for the effort; short. Hope this helps! Mark Hauter-
  10. 1 point
    Trip: Lichtenberg Mountain - Standard route from Yodelin Trip Date: 12/08/2017 Trip Report: Mostly just testing out this fancy new software. Skied Lichtenberg on Friday from Yodelin, freaking beautiful once you got above the inversion but coooold while in it. The snow up top was nice to ski though it was important to watch out for pinwheels, but between the top of the inversion and the meadows at the base conditions were....challenging. Great to get out though. Gear Notes: The usual stuff Approach Notes: More creek crossings than usual due to low coverage
  11. 1 point
    this is the first year since 1981 - year I moved to Leavenworth - that the Funnel (main line on Hubba Hubba hill), has not been climbable by mid-December. Walked in to Eightmile Lake yesterday, and noted a half-dozen or so climbable flows, including one that stair-stepped up for five pitches. I'm aware of no beta for any of these. Sorry, too lazy and digitally illiterate to provide photos. "if ya wanna know, ya hafta go" -Haireball
  12. 1 point
    wow that was easy. once again thanks for the upgrade guys!
  13. 1 point
    On Saturday I went to Alpental to check on Practice Gully. It is not in.
  14. 1 point
    Road's a little rough from the fall rains, though not too bad. Bottomed out the Corolla at one of the dips, so bring a pickup or SUV. Lots of 3 O Clock Rock is dry and nice, at least the east and southern exposures! Northern slabs still a bit wintery!
  15. 1 point
    Yeah, no fucking guides... err unless they just need a solid partner:) If our goals and skill levels align, I am also looking for 2018 Denali/Ruth partners. Yeah, Ham and Eggs, but also want to get up high, Cassin ideally.
  16. 1 point
    This is an excellent example of how you should never judge someone like this. Obviously young, enthusiastic, and getting after it. Everyone starts somewhere, and he was out getting better and learning. It is also a pretty cool genesis moment, but then not really because i think Marc was pretty good at pulling plastic before this. And summitchaserCJB pretty much left permanent record of how big of a douche he was at that time. But people mature and evolve, so maybe he is a cool dude now, who knows.
  17. 1 point
    Jesus Christ, spray had 1 new topic in May, oh Cascadeclimbers I mourn ye.... No Van Halen or other faggy bands to be nominated.. I propose: Bolt Thrower Killing Joke (not quite "metal" but fuck it) Fear Factory Proceed...
  18. 1 point
    No problem..... I just tend to get mad cuz i feel like the older guys pick on me for my lack in special gear and 'stylish' climbing clothes.... I just do my best to get out and climb so when im older and can go to more extreme places I will have more experience...