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Over Sept 12-13 Eric Wehrly, Lani Chapko and I Climbed a new route on the NE face of Johannesburg. Like many features on J-berg, the scope of the NE face is overshadowed by the shear mass of the mountain. The face proper gains over 2000', with the entirety of the north face stretching nearly 5000'. We approached via the start of the NE buttress lines, then up glacial slabs directly under the hanging glacier, eventually climbing over the hanging glacier to access the face. We roped up for 23 pitches, totalling 3900' of belayed travel with 17 hours of climbing time split between two days. Our line of travel up the face Rough overview of the '65 route (left), Route 66 (middle), and the '67 route (right) Closer view of the 3 routes. Pink is where the Becky book shows the 65 route going (sharing a pitch with our line) but the green line is where we believe is more likely they went. The white circle is where we bivied. The forecast on the morning of the 12th showed fog, eventually clearing to blue skies. We opted for a somewhat late start and arrived at the TH to dense white out conditions. Our forecast all seemed to believe it would clear up, so we started hiking down towards the lower buttress hoping it would clear up. Lani going full euro The conditions did pretty quickly start clearing as we arrived at the base, but the rock and, more importantly, plant life was still wet. We decided to access the NE face via the first portion of the NE rib routes, as the CJ was an impassable death gully spitting rocks. The access climbing went generally pretty well, though we ended up unexpectedly roping up for a few pitches. None of us felt like dieing slipping off of wet moss... An early pitch on the approach Eventually we hit the hanging basin where the buttress lines turn right up into the thick cedar forest. We continued up slabs below the hanging glacier and found easy travel. The glacier presented with almost no hangfire this time of year, but early season, this would have the potential for overhead hazard. Lani and Eric on the nice approach slabs Broken ice on the hanging glacier The hanging glacier itself was mellow, though season and conditions will greatly impact this. We ended up chopping a bollard and doing a short rap into the moat at its top to gain access to the rock. Looking back at the bollard belay/rappel Climbing on the second pitch We likely shared some terrain with the 65 route here as we used the gully to access our intended crack system. The Becky topo makes it a little unclear where they went here, though you could probably assume they went up the gully. After a bit of gully travel we were able to escape to our objective face. The angle slowly steepened as we approached our "hand crack". The proposed crack turned out to be filled with gnarly munge, so we aimed for a thinner looking crack to its right. Eric leading the crux 5.10 crack The crack proved to provide the crux of the route, luckily it was relatively well protected... For the crux section. While perched here, a huge natural rockfall ripped down the 65 route gully, validating our concerns of gully trqvel and questioning the sanity of our ancestors. As Eric led the pitch, it became clear that we were about to loose the last bit of light, so we got our our headlamps and prepped for some night climbing to go in search of a ledge to sleep on. Two more 200' pitches gave access to a workable ledge. Lani and I somehow fit in this footprint, while Eric was on some downsloping round ledges below Morning at the bivy Racking up in the morning We all woke up a little creaky and waiting for the sun to warm us. Above presented with 3 options. Our original intent was to traverse right and climb a series of catscratch cracks. These however looked steep, and filled with munge. So we opted to work up and left to climb the top of a ridge feature (not even considering option 3, the unclimbed gully above). Its possible we share a pitch here with the 65 line, though the written description of their climb makes much more sense to have climbed an obvious ramp a couple hundred feet below (avoiding what would have been a gnarly mandatory impasse to gain their upper headwall cracks). Lani topping out the worst pitch on the route... A fun corner brought us near the ridge crest, where we climbed 2 awful choss pitches up to a gendarme, above here, the rock luckily turned back to decent quality shist. Eric starting up his choss ridge pitch Climbing on the pitch above the red gendarme Here we worked up and right on moderate terrain and eventually gained access to another big gully system that we believed to be the 67 line. We climbed this gully for 2 shared pitches to gain a notch on the NE buttress by the glacier. The final moves on the NE face Different view, same spot One mellow ice pitch brought us into some more easy scrambling to the summit. We all had approach shoes and aluminum crampons so ended up roping up for 3 total pitches of easy ice. Had we had boots or had early season snow coverage over the ice we likely wouldn't have needed to rope up for these pitches. Then we were in for the long descent down the East ridge and back over Doug's direct. Steep moraine dirt below the CJ We ended up getting back to the cars pretty late and made the rough late night drive home. Overall, the route only really had a couple pitches of bad rock. There were some tricky belays to build and some pitches were runout. Though very rarely was it hard and runout. It seems like the objectively safest route on the central part of the NE face as it climbs the least amount of gully of any existing route. We collectively give it a solid recommendation for the Cascades connesouir, or anyone keen on climbing the upper NE face. As always, here are my pitch notes.. Route 66 V 5.10 AI 2 Rack: Triples .3/.4; Doubles .1-.75; singles 1-3; full set of nuts; 3 KBs (used extensively for belays) P1-4 700' Alpine boulder problem pitches getting to the base of the NE face (up to 5.8 and AI2) P5 130' 5.7 A transition pitch up into the gully. P6 200' 5.6 Climb the gully, belay in the gully. P7 200' 5.9 Climb the rib left of the gully, stepping back right to belay in the gully again. P8 150' 5.6 Exit the gully to the right. Belay on a good, medium sized ledge below where the wall steepens. P9 100' 5.10- start with a steep, juggy roof to the right, then trend up ramps to a small ledge to the right of a large tombstone flake. P10 200' 5.10 Start up the flake (crux), then trend left on low angle terrain to meet the main weakness. Follow this up to a large ledge system. P11 200' 5.6 Traverse slabs rightward into a gully, follow it to a good ledge below a big roof P12 200' 5.8 "money pitch" Follow the gully, pulling the roof to its left, and continuing to another good ledge P13 250' 5.4 Scramble up the gully, exit left and belay at a ledge positioned below a big open book corner. P14 160' 5.9 Work your way into the corner, belay at its top. P15 170' 5.6 Ramble up loose terrain on the ridge crest P16 100' 5.8 Climb the super chossy ridge to a notch by a red finger P17 200' 5.5 Climb past the finger then scramble up to your end of rope P18 200' 5.8 Climb the grassy cracks above to gain the big chimney on the right, follow this to a stance in the chimney P19 200' 5.6 Trend up and right past two gullys towards the larger drainage feature P20 150' 5.9 Climb a face to gain a corner, follow this to a ledge at its top P21 200' 5.7 Continue up the gully P22 200' 5.7 Continue up the gully, belay at a notch on the NE butt by the glacier P23 200' AI2 one pitch up the glacier.

Trip: Despair (south peak) - East / SE side Trip Date: 09/12/2025 Trip Report: Strained pulley + nice forecast -> scramble somewhere new. South peak of Despair was my solution. As a late season climb it works pretty well. Not the most classic of routes though. Has more than its share of loose talus, and it’s a little stingy with views. For all the vertical and time involved, most of it is not very high, and wrapping around tall walls keeps much of the neighbors hidden. Started out dodging cones the squirrels were busily raining down. From Thornton lake it’s not obvious where to start heading up. I think all options would involve a little brush. Nice slabs are not far away. On my return I ended up a little farther skier’s right where there is some weird sandy gritty knobby sloping geology for several hundred feet. From the pass at 6150’ clouds blew in to obscure the way, which was pretty tedious talus side hilling. I did two different variations to and from the steep creek, each involving 300 vertical feet of shwacking, and both fairly bad. Maybe getting into the creek higher up would have been better. I traversed out of it into woods at 4660’. Another series of steep parallel dry stream beds led to Triumph pass. The snow and ice north of Triumph pass was not as easy to avoid as I had guessed from recent satellite imagery. At first I tried to cut though it to get to slabs on the left side. Though low angle it was down to pure slippery ice. Dirt patches initially provided traction but I dead ended when these ran out. Headed back up and off to slabs higher up. These slabs skiers left of the snow are of course dirty and exposed but fortunately featured enough to keep it at about 4th class. After the slabs the easiest way was to cross the steam back to the right, and then left once more at the bottom near the lake. On my return the next day I was able to avoid the exposed ice entirely by climbing the slabs farther past that stuff. In the traverse to the higher lake below Despair I came across two running streams, filled up at the first. Dropped the overnight gear at the lake and headed up to the east end of the peak. Took a pretty direct line near the ridge on the way up, and took easier and cleaner slabs on the SE aspect on the return. The next day I simply had to return to the trailhead without wiping out too hard on any of the loose talus. Hidden tunnel and weird negative column probably 15-20’ deep The steep creek with steep woods to its west and shwacking to its east. Impressive south face of Triumph, I wonder if there are any good routes. Safe to say there were millions of huckleberries in the basin at least. I find it hard to move efficiently in conditions like these. Cool lenticulars this day Gear Notes: One pole Approach Notes: Thornton lake then off trail

Nice write-up, Sam. Overcoming the myriad challenges with you two sure was fun. Being up on that wall made me feel small. Reflecting on climbing this and Little J-berg the same summer, a couple things come to mind: 1. the latter's name is apt; and 2. I think I should seek help.

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And yes, like others, I have often looked up at that wall and wondered. Thanks for surviving to bring back the first report to the internet era!

Don't worry @lunger some hippy pow with JGAP is just a few months away. Just what the doctor ordered.

I've always wondered about going in that area but it seemed tedious....thanks for the report! Some beautiful images with that evening light....we have an impressive backyard. For some reason, I have really noticed the lack of seasonal snow in the North Cascades this summer. It is a bit sad compared to what late season looked like in the 90s. But, still a very beautiful neck of the woods.

Trip: Cascade Volcanoes - Bike-athon Trip Date: 06/06/2025 Trip Report: Summary: I set out to stand all 5 WA volcanoes in the same 7 day (168 hour) period, bike powered between them. As usual, antics ensued. An unplanned road closure added ~100 miles on the bike and the goal was adjusted to 8 days/192 hours. In the end, I stood atop Mount Baker on hour 189 since departing the Mount Adams summit. The journey in between had deep suffering, even deeper discovery and an adventure I’ll always remember. The trip had to be solo. But the story was too good not to share… Classic DC shot, peak 3 of 5 In recent years I’ve become increasingly obsessed with long bike-hikes. But it's hard to remember exactly where, when or why this dream came to be. A while back some lunatic bike/climbed all the Cascade volcanos and that certainly added some fuel to the fire. There is something about doing it all on human power makes the adventure feel a little more....real…for lack of a better term. Earning every inch helps put me more in touch with the broader landscapes which connect our High Places Planning an effort like this was sort of an impossible task. Timing the trip would require some favor from the weather gods. But knowing the patterns of the PNW and its’ volcanoes, June would be the time. Without better criteria I figured lets pencil it in around the longest days of the year in order to limit the odds of after-dark cycling. The snow coverage on Rainier in particular would also help mitigate the risks of solo travel on big glaciers. So I wrote it in for June 14-22…but a forecast presented in the first days of June that was too good to pass up. I was not fully recovered from training, nor was my equipment or logistics in order. But that was all figureoutable. With a week of solid high pressure I eeked my way out of whatever responsibilities I had, and set off. Originally the plan had been to start the trek from the Adams TH and climb with a friend. The new plan instead had me start the ride from White Salmon, at the Oregon border. That green-blue-white color scheme 😍 Its finally summer in the hills Call it a warm up! The 37 miles to the Adams TH went pretty quick until the last few. Reports warned of a “rough” “dirt” road leading up to the south side climb. Rough was fine, dirt was fine. The sandy parts were nearly impossible on a bike loaded up with camping and climbing gear. Despite that, I eventually reached the TH, unpacked and slept as soon as I could. By 2am it was too cold to stay asleep. The forecast for the week was going to be very warm. So I chose the lightest quilt I had in order to save weight. But that first night I paid the price. Preferring to rest longer but knowing when to bend I got up, packed, ate and started trudging upwards. Because my concept of this challenge was starting the clock when I departed the first summit, I kept my pace slow to conserve energy for what would inevitably be a very long first full day. By 830am I reached the top. Perfectly clear, sunny…but bitter cold wind. By 845am I started the clock and raced down the mountain. A few thousand feet down the surface was soft enough for efficient plunge stepping. By 1130am I was back with the bike, repacked and ready to coast a bit. The road would not make this as carefree as I hoped. Tedious, bumpy miles eventually lead to a delightful (paved!) forested downhill. Once in Trout Lake I found the restaurants closed. So I had my first gas station meal of the trip. A secondary goal of the trip was to eat ice cream at every country side store I could. Feasting junk food on the front porch, the staff asked “isn’t it early for through hikers?” I must have smelled like one already. The first of 22 ice creams... As we chatted I learned that forest road 25 was still closed due to a combination of landslide, construction, lingering snow and owl conservation. I spent most of the day having my at home contact help brainstorm how I would re route after climbing Mount Saint Helens. In the mean time I continued, but the uncertainty weighed me down. Riding to MSH took the rest of the day. There were a few miles of pushing the bike through snow. Definitely among the low points of the trip. That night I slept at the climbers bivouac TH after 19 hours and 12k of combined vertical gain. I was exhausted and the stoke was low. That night I had some thoughts of giving up. Ultimately a series of bad dreams in the early morning were disturbing enough to force me awake. Sometimes nightmares can serve that benefit. Within seconds of waking my mind refocused. Trying to close the distance before dark on day 1 Hiking MSH under good weather was a treat. The ascent went fast and easy, but not as easy as the descent. I was totally out of water but snagged a liter that had fallen out of someone’s pack on the glissade track. Back at the road, some kind soul had packed a can of coconut water in a snow patch they built near my bike. A little trail magic- bike touring edition. It really made me happy. Not just the fluid intake but that some strangers had the consideration of doing that for me. Solid folks can still be found… At first I thought it was a beer...probably for the better that I was wrong... Another huge boost came that morning when I was high enough to catch cell signal. I was able to devise a re route to get me to Rainier. It would add a day of cycling, and push the 7 day goal to 8, but the mission would continue! Riding back to the I5 corridor was definitely not my preference but flexibility is a trait we learn on quests like this. I spent the night at a trashy motel near the freeway. The next day was type 1 touring. Flat farmlands with many, many ice creams to be had. I reached Ashford in the late afternoon and settled in for a 13 hour sleep. The next “day” (actually two days, no sleep in between) would be huge. Arguably the crux “day”. It was some of the best sleep I’ve ever had. The schedule for the next segment required I wait til around noon to start. Timing travel on the upper slopes of Rainier was the priority. The 20 miles from Ashford to Paradise was actually pretty nice for being continuously uphill. I took my time through there, keeping my heart rate and mental stimulation as low as possible. Reaching Paradise at 4pm on a perfect Saturday, I remembered why I avoid this place on summer weekends. Luckily, on a bike parking is not an issue… A nice melty treat...and also an ice cream The permit stop was pretty seamless. Months prior I had received approval for a solo climb. Checking in was a simple formality. I killed a couple hours (and ice creams), letting the sun begin setting and the snow firming up. By 630pm I could wait no longer. Setting out from Paradise I continued to be intentional about managing my pace. Once on the snowfield I started to open it up a bit. At Muir I was surprised to find absolutely zero wind. I took this opportunity to rest for an hour. After that break, something came over me. My energy was maniacal. It felt like nothing could stop me. By the time I reached the top of disappointment cleaver I had passed 52 people. 3h 53m after leaving Muir, I was standing alone on Columbia Crest, well ahead of sunrise and ahead of schedule. I had stood there many times before, sometimes alone, but this was a very powerful moment. Its hard to describe the feelings that came over me as the first bits of dawn stumbled over the horizon. Its amazing how full life can be…I hope some day I can better explain what came over me. The descent was uneventful… fast, efficient. By now I was getting better at repacking the bike, even though one of my cheap panniers had exploded. Riding down from Paradise was probably my favorite segment of cycling in my life. Almost no pedaling, fantastic views. Hardly any traffic, surprisingly. The bliss would not last. The rest of the day would be 80 relatively flat miles but with a strong headwind and temperatures reaching the low 90s. To boot, it was the first hot Sunday of summer and the roads were bustling. The miles were stressful and seemed to never end. Eventually I reached home in South Seattle. I had started the effort 32 hours earlier. In the end I would gain over 16k feet of vert and drink 15L of water. It was nice to be home for a second. But I had many tasks to complete in order to be ready to ride out the next morning. New panniers arrived. I did laundry. Tuned up the bike…and even had a few minutes to tend to garden tasks. The next morning I had pizza and cake for breakfast and then hit the road. The day would be 12 hours and 117 miles but it actually went pretty well. The first ⅓ of that were on routes that I ride often. I encountered some nice bike paths from Snohomish to Arlington, and beyond to Darrington. The gas station there was closed due to “extreme heat”. But I still managed to find some ice cream and groceries before continuing to the Glacier Peak TH. It was at this point that I started to feel like this could actually happen… It was a poor night of sleep there. But by 550am I was on the move, even if it was a little sluggish. If you’ve hiked GP before you know what a slog it is. It seems never ending, like you’re making no progress. My morale and energy improved as the day went on. I made the summit around 430pm. What a view. Glacier Peak is a highly underrated IMO One of the few photos that day. Rainier seems real far away ! It would be a long ways back to my sleeping pad and fart sack. But I made pretty good time. When I left White Pass at sunset the beauty was astounding. I had enough energy to run a few miles. The slog along the river valley did seem to take forever but at the stroke of midnight I strolled back into the parking lot. It did not take long to eat and fall asleep. The next morning I woke up and ate the 100 calories of crumbs left in my bag and started the (easy) 25 miles back to Darrington. Once at Moe’s I ate an unspeakable amount of food. Probably it was “too much” because my pace slowed to a crawl on the miles from there to Concrete. Once in town I decided I had better over-eat again… holy cow! just one left... It would be just a few more hours of uphill pedaling until I’d park the bike for the final time on this trip. There is something odd that happens at this stage in a grand-journey. Two strong but opposing feelings. On the one hand there is incredible relief that the work was nearly over. But the part that might be unexpected to some is the feeling of sadness that the mission would soon be over. So many years of planning and preparation, and now this week of total focus…it would be done soon. I had found comfort and identity in my striving. And with the finish line in sight I would lose them both At Schreibers Meadow I had a few hours to rest before starting up. A friend was at Sandy Camp and would be joining me for the final hours. Before the trip I wondered how my energy would be at this point. Would I be exhausted and barely hanging on? Or would I have tapped into some deeper energy and be racing to the top… A night to remember...headlamps stayed in the pack It was the latter...stoke was through the roof...through the clouds even... At 550am we stood on top So much of what makes a journey like this worthwhile are the elements that can't be transmitted in words or photograph...but I've enjoyed trying Gear Notes: no gear. just ice cream Approach Notes: no

Anyone else noticing this the past few years? It seems like you used to see some very old registers even on relatively popular peaks. Nowadays, most of the old brass Mountaineers registers are long gone and even the crappy plastic newer ones don't seem to last more than a year or two. I suspect someone with a beef is removing/stealing/tossing them, but does anyone know for sure what is going on? I have to think someone has heard/seen something, but I haven't personally. Maybe I am one of the few that care, but I miss reading the entries from friends who are no longer with us.... Can't wait to see if this gets moved to Spray like the old dayz!

Ah..... looks like the Choss Dog Millionaires have left another calling card.

Inspiring photos and report like always, thanks for sharing! What a surreal gorgeous place.

Over the last 3 days, Lani and I climbed what we believe to be the FA of the North Ridge of Redoubt. This is the long, NW trending ridge that looms over the North Face glacier route. The route was actually quite classic and comes with a high recommendation. It is by far more enjoyable than the standard route scree encountered on the descent. The route was primarily low fifth class and fourth class scrambling and we roped up for roughly 1100', though snow coverage and comfort sloping may drastically impact this number. The ridge gains a bit over 2000' over around .5 miles of horizontal. The name is inspired by the little ball of fire, Calcifer, from howls moving castle, as we watched the Perry Creek fire grow in the distance. Day 1 We approached and bivied at Ouzel lake. A bird tells me the Depot Creek "trail" is in particularly excellent condition, requiring NO bushwhacking, and they said handlines are even avoidable. The same bird mentioned that current logging roads take you all the way to the border, making the approach to Ouzel Lake 4.5 miles. We bivied all the way up at Ouzel lake as we were initially planning on climbing Spickard the next day, but growing smoke from the Perry Creek fire changed our minds on that plan. There is also an excellent potential camp at the top of Depot Creek falls, potentially allowing for a direct approach, though this would require bushwhacking of unknown taste... There are also potential bivy options on route to help facilitate a 2 day itinerary. Day 2 From the lake, we made a long contour on talus, loosing only around 400', once near and below the objective, we made our way up talus and slabs to the toe of the ridge. Excellent running water out of the toe of the glacier. We initially attempted the cracks smack on the toe of the ridge, I bailed around halfway up after encountering some 5.11 tips and entering unpleasant looseness. There is an obvious corner left of the toe that potentially holds a very classic potentially moderate direct start. The unsent directismo After bailing off the toe, we looked to the right and zig-zagged up ramps to gain the buttress crest. Snow coverage will drastically impact your experience here. Once on the ridge crest we found thousands of feet of enjoyable scrambling on mostly sound rock. Lani compared it to the NE buttress of triumph but with mostly better rock. We roped up for the occasional pitch, but mostly soloed. There is a broad saddle at 7600' where things begin to steepen subtly. This would also make an excellent bivy with a permanent snowfield for water access. Above the notch, the climbing steepened and we climbed a few back to back pitches until we were below a prominent gendarme. Unsure what the top of the gendarme would be like we traversed into the chossy gully to climbers left and climbed a short, overhanging pitch of surprisingly solid shist. After topping out the gully, we found the descent off the gendarme would have been chill, so Future parties should consider a direct line up the cracks on the gendarme for a more classic finish. Once at the notch in the ridge we met up with the large talus fields that define the slopes on the south summit. The traverse over the sub summits to the true summit was generally easy but involved a few sections of fifth class. Once on the summit, we began the "joys" of doing the standard route late season. Lani in the canonball hole Once at the base of the gullies we encountered awful scree, one could only imagine how much more awful it would be to go up, so there is that... The entire day we had been watching a fire grow in the East. Seeing it expand so quickly and already beginning to envelope spickard in smoke we decided early on our descent to forgo spickard and plan on hiking out the next day. Mordor to the East Day 3 Hike out, blueberries... Suggested Rack Single Rack .3-1, optional 2; full set of nuts; we had a single 60M rope, but it could be done with a 30M line to save weight.

Yeah it’s not great but not like Cascadian couloir level of tedium. Don’t wanna discourage the interested

Agree, purty pics, thanks for posting! Sounds like your gamble to not pack the pointy bits paid off. Your TR evokes good memories of that beautiful area -- have been back there a couple of times, and agree that in the summer the Thornton Lakes --> Triumph Pass part of the approach qualifies as tedious. The pilgrim pays the price...

Its interesting how that wall seemed to be a popular draw in the 1960's then seemed to fall out of disfavor completely. As a young Mountaineer I can remember the "67 Wild Flowers Route" being routinely listed as an Intermediate climb and wondering if that was something they actually routinely did? I'm curious, did you pick your line well in advance or settle on it once you got up there? If in advance what drew you to that particular zone? Seems like those deep gullies would make some world class mixed climbs in the right winter conditions.

Nice work! Thanks for sharing! So much to celebrate here. Glad to see the old dog got to feast on some tasty runout alpine choss.

May I present a route conception of an old aid route that got dusted off. I wish to promote updating it further with modern anchors if the right person took up such a project, thanks Wayne. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/201702439/danas-arch-complete-aid#a_201702440

I was thinking the exact same thing Jason. Jon, I was seeing what you use for satellite imagery? This past season I used OpenSnow for backcountry skiing. But not sure if I want to renew my sub again.

Tedious! 😂. If tedious is the bar to get those views, sign me up for tedious.

Went up there again. The smoke from the Bear Gulch spoiled the views to the south but we had a good time anyway. Was gonna camp on Hawk Peak but ended up going down to the plane wreck in Tull Canyon to get out of the smoke. plol

Wow, just wow. I've considered 5 volcanoes in 5 days before, but with a car!... and I thought that might be too much; and I consider myself extremely fit. I can't even imagine the level of mental fortitude this took. Well done. Thanks so much for an amazing trip and a great report. Maybe this just came at the right time in my life but this was a spectacular read; I laughed, I cried, nice work. Pizza and cake for breakfast says a lot.

Trip: Squire Creek Wall, South Face - Nature's Way Trip Date: 09/05/2025 Trip Report: I was joined by Rob Stephenson on Sept. 5, 2025 for a climb of the newly prepared route, Nature's Way. This is a three pitch route on Squire Creek Wall's South face, located just right (East) of the route Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer. p1: From the two-bolt anchor at the base, walk up granite ramps and blocks to a prominent V-gully. Ascend the gully to find good pro cracks at its top sides. Step out left to an easy mantel move on the slab. Climb up easy blocks to a large ledge, 5.5. p2: A series of ledges cut the wall into five or six distinct problems, each protected by a bolt or two. The crux is at the fourth bolt, where a rightward slanting seam forms finger edges leading to a nice face hold to the ledge above, 5.8. Then a final 5.8 move in a shallow dihedral passes two bolts to a helpful tree/bush providing balance holds to the anchor. p3: The obvious hand crack soaring above is the route objective. It may look intimidating, but there are good pro options for cams all along its length. With lieback moves or stemming at first, gain the only big knob on the wall. Hand jamming for a couple of moves brings one to a restful patch right of the crack. Prepare for some undercling moves and fire out to a foot edge on the left wall with a useful sharp-edged finger crack for resting. Another ten feet of undercling leads to the top of the flake with a blessed hold at the end. Small pro can be plugged in here, protecting the high step move onto the narrow ramp to the chains, 5.9. Route history, timeline Yale Lewis spotted the "curvy flakes" of pitch 3 in September of last year while we were finishing up a climb of Miracle Ramps. The idea percolated all winter, and we drilled the bottom anchor on May 25, 2025. On June 15, Yale opined that one pitch would reach the curvy flakes. When he climbed the first pitch we were halfway there; there was some foreshortening involved. He drilled one anchor bolt at the big ledge. I climbed the second pitch by going wildly left into the trees whenever it looked hard. But I made it to the goal, the bushy ledge at the base of the curvy flakes where I drilled the two-bolt anchor. Later in June, on a solo mission, I placed chain anchors on p1 and p2. On June 29, we made the first attempt at the big flake crack. Yale led over to the crack and placed two cams, but could not move up as the crack bottomed out. He backed off and tried climbing around the flake to the far left and placed a couple of bolts. These bolts will have to be removed as they are way off-route. We descended. In July I went up for two days by myself and finalized the second pitch, placing six bolts at the interesting spaces between the ledges. I cleaned the pitch with the wire brush and some trundling, all good fun. On August 10, I made the breakthrough on pitch three. I knew the crack would have to be cleaned before I could free it, so I would have to use direct aid to get on top. With new energy from Linnet Vacha and Sam Pickel, I got on aiders and gardened pockets every five or six feet. Feeling like I was on a big wall again was so great! I had assembled a double rack of cams between blue TCU and yellow Camalot, and I placed 21 of them. I drilled the top anchor, avoiding some very loose surface flakes, finding solid rock up high, and fixed a static rope. On August 22, I returned by myself for three days. I jugged up to the top a p3 and rapped with the wire brush. I got the lichen off all the foot smearing within three feet of the crack. Then lower down, I got out the ice axe and dug out the dirt from the hand crack section! So satisfying. On August 5, I teamed up with Rob Stephenson for the free climb. Overcoming the weakness of mental negativity, I found enough rest spots to get it done clean with ten cam placements. Rob opined that a confident, strong leader could do it safely with five placements, and I now agree. Special thanks to Yale Lewis, Linnet Vacha, Sam Pickel, and Rob Stephenson. Photos by Rob Stephenson. Topo by Bill Enger. Gear Notes: Double rack between .3" and .75", and one 2". Strangely, no No. 1 (red Camalot) was needed on any pitch. Specifically, used on the FFA: One blue TCU, One yellow TCU, One blue Totem, One .4 Camalot, One yellow Totem, One .5 purple Camalot, Three .75 green Camalots, One No. 2 yellow Camalot. Approach Notes: From the well-known "paradisiacal grassy saddle" bivy area, cross the wide granite apron and cruise past the start of Concerto in C to the opposite wall. See the two bolts with ring anchors, installed to provide a descent option in case of bad weather.

This is a really cool idea, thanks for sharing! And nice job!

dang!

here’s one when I got new panniers on day 5 and just for fun, here’s what I was rolling with when the old ones exploded coming down from MSH 🥲

Awesome!

NIce effort you two! Very adventurous, indeed. I've been looking over at that wall for some years now. I remember David W. telling me about a solo exploration made by Chris Greyell. He hiked over from Squire Creek Pass, with much brutal bushwhacking, and dropped down to that face. Upon returning he told David, "It's dirty." Now I know he was right!

4/3/2025 with @lunger (who came up with the idea... some kind of Pyramid Scheme) and Eric Noll After a morning spent walking in steep forest and surmounting knobs of vertical snow on the ridge, we finally snow that was friendly for ski touring. A descending traverse West got us into a prominent slanting tube feature that descends from the shoulder of Pyramid. On this, we noted some shallow but sensitive windslab from recent E winds. Hopefully these wouldn't be found higher up on our intended line. Cascade climber Colonial We skinned upwards, peeked around the corner into the NW cirque, and saw imposing blue ice. To our surprise, a strip of snow pasted on a narrow ramp seemed to provide a weakness through otherwise unskiable terrain. The windslab had also gone away, winds slowed by the large buttress of Pyramid's North face. As we climbed, our excitement grew and we realized we would be able to keep the skis on and travel through this wild feature. The upper bowl even held deep powder (and tiring booting). Gaining the summit was a straightforward affair from the top of the cirque. The ridge is pretty low-angle. We chilled for a while at the ridgetop before moving to the summit. Wehrly likes it spicy Summit! The descent made for a neat line in a beautiful position in great conditions. Nowhere was it crazy steep, but we did feel the exposure especially as we made turns directly above the waterfall and sideslipped the ramp. With snow to 2000' this would make for a 5k descent! We had to make do with a turn-around near 4600', followed by an ascending traverse back to ridgetop and a multi-hour descent through the forest. Starting into the crux: Wehrly opens up the narrowest passage. "SO EXPOSED!" I heard him shout Noll followed: I went last: We sideslipped the ramp: Happy below the gnar! Avy debris, then some nice buttery pow Looking back towards the cirque with our skintrack from the morning blown in This was second attempt for me and Wehrly. We had tried in 2021 but turned around below the cirque when I didn't have a good feeling about the cornices. You are really going up the middle of a big avy path with a lot of overhead hazard. That day we skinned back up to the shoulder of Pyramid and did a long descent down the lower avalanche path. We stayed skier's left and had to negotiate a very steep section through smaller cliffs to reach the flat runout of the avy paths below. That year we skied to around 2000' among large alders and old growth. In retrospect, it might have been a good day for getting the complete descent. March 2021, typical travel on the climber's trail: March 2021, in the lower slide path: If you haven't enjoyed the Pyramid climber's trail in winter conditions, crucial beta is to pass the steep sections by traversing climber's right/West through trees on the ascent. This saves a lot of effort! We didn't have them, but it might be wise to carry a couple ice screws and a v-thread for this line in case you find icier conditions or are approaching it top-down, e.g. as the exit from the Isolation traverse. There are some options for variations. Also, it sounds like Erin Smart, Kurt Hicks, and Forest McBrian skied this cirque but likely traversed far skier's left to avoid the icy crux we skied (this looked passable to us but also thin and exposed) https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/march-23-25-isolation-traverse-plus. Skurlock photo with the line:

Unfortunately NWAlpine is calling it quits. Not sure what the plan is there, but taking the advert down. If you like their stuff (quality, made in a America) then get in on their going out of business sale here: https://www.nwalpine.com/ All the best to all....

BITD I climbed Castle Peak in the Pasayten a couple months apart and the old brass mountaineers summit register had disappeared in the interim. Only takes one very active peak bagger with an excessive ego to make them all disappear in short order.