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  1. 5 points
    Trip: Denali - Cassin Ridge (Alaska Grade V, 5.8, AI4, 8,000ft), Alpine Style* Trip Date: 06/09/2018 Video: Between June 2 and June 11, Priti and I climbed the Cassin Ridge on the South Face of Denali approaching via the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (the “Valley of Death”), spending 6 days on route (including 1 rest/weather day at 17,700ft), summiting on June 9, and descending the West Buttress route. The whole trip was 10 days 7 hours door-to-door from Seattle. The Cassin Ridge is the second most popular route on Denali, with an average of 9 successful climbers each year, compared to an average of 584 successful climbers each year on the West Buttress route over the past decade. We carried everything up and over, climbing Ground-Up, with 38lbs packs each at the start, no sleds, and moving camp as we climbed, without caches. It was a Smash ’n’ Grab, meaning we decided to go at the last minute when we saw a good weather window. We watched Denali weather every day since early May until there was about a week of good weather. It took 24 hours from being at work on a Friday afternoon deciding to pull the trigger to being at Kahiltna Base Camp (including packing, Ranger orientation, flights, etc). We climbed Rainier 3 times the month and a half before our trip (Gib Ledges, Kautz, and Liberty Ridge), sleeping in the summit crater the weekend before. Still, we took Diamox while on Denali and had 2 weeks of food/fuel in case we felt altitude on route. Luckily, we had no altitude issues, and were only bounded by our own fitness, weather, and desire to move only when the sun was on us. Overall, weather was windless, clear, and sunny during the days with a few flurries at night. It was an “old-school” style of climbing, slow and heavy, while most folks nowadays opt to acclimatize on the West Buttress and climb the Cassin Ridge starting from 14,000ft camp on the West Buttress, then climb light-and-fast via the Seattle ’72 ramp or the West Rib (Chicken Gully) in a few days — this was our plan for our attempt last year with Ilia Slobodov, but didn’t get the weather window. Overall, a very successful trip, and we’re so excited to have pulled it off, after 3 years of dreaming of this route. *Alpine Style: The route was completed Alpine Style with the following exceptions: -Snowshoes were cached at Camp 1 in case the lower Kahiltna Glacier was sketchy on the way back. Didn’t really ever need snowshoes. The NE Fork was boot-able. There weren’t tracks going up the NE Fork, but it was wanded to the base of the West Rib. -We clipped into the existing fixed lines on the West Buttress descent above 14k, but this was unnecessary since it was basically a staircase. We didn’t clip into the existing pickets on the Autobahn above 17k. Google Street View: Apparently, nobody had done a 360 Photo Sphere Google Street View of the summit of Denali, so we obliged https://www.google.com/maps/@63.0690675,-151.0060278,3a,75y,78.91h,50.18t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sAF1QipOR4OLfMm5iBn15nn4OdiMbVTWa7lwk40pPUlnH!2e10!3e12!7i8704!8i4352 Itinerary: -June 2: Arrived at Kahiltna Base Camp at 3:00PM and moved to “Safe Camp” in the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (“Valley of Death”). We cached snowshoes at Camp 1 and took a right turn up the NE Fork. This “Safe Camp” is the widest part of the NE fork, where you are least threatened by avalanches and serac-fall sweeping the entire valley floor. -June 3: Hiked from "Safe Camp" halfway down the Valley of Death and climbed the Japanese Couloir and camped on Cassin Ledge with a sweeping view of Kahiltna Peaks and the entire NE Fork. -June 4: Climbed the 5.8 crux, Cowboy Arete, and Hanging Glacier, camping at the Hanging Glacier Bergschrund at the Base of the First Rock Band -June 5: Woke up to Colin Haley strolling by our bivy site on his 8hr7min speed ascent of the Cassin Ridge (he approached via the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier). This was a total surprise and very inspiring see him up there! We climbed the First Rock Band that day and bivied between the First and Second Rock Band just next to the rib. -June 6: Climbed the Second Rock Band and found the crux to be the sustained "Hidden Rock Couloir" at the entrance, which is sustained mixed 70-80deg for about 50m. At the end of the Second Rock Band, a Chilean Team of 2, plus Colin Haley, plus our team of 2 all took the wrong (harder) exit. From the overhanging triangle, we all traversed right about 40ft then went straight up, finding difficulties to M4-M5. We should have traversed right another 40ft or so to find the 5.6 slab pitches and the 5.6 dihedral as described in Super Topo. This ended the technical difficulties of the route. That night, we bivied at Mark Westman’s “excellent bivy site” at 17,700ft. This turned out to be very hard to find and we spent several hours looking around for it. It is way further up and right on the col than expected. -June 7: Lots of snow! So we decided to sleep all day, acclimatize and waiting out the weather. -June 8: So much snow accumulated on the upper mountain the previous day that it took us over 12 hours to ascend the final 2,500ft to Kahiltna Horn. We were knee to waist deep almost the entire day. Mark Westman told us later that he was watching us all day through the high-powered scope from Kahiltna Base Camp and he could see the long trench we left in our wake. Presumably, many day-tourists at Base Camp watched us in our embarrassing slog to the top. This was by far the hardest day of the trip! When we reached Kahiltna Horn at 10:30PM, we had no energy to go to the summit, so we slept on the “Football Field” at 20,000ft. The night was beautiful, calm, and cold! -June 9: Went back up to tag the summit, then descended 12,500ft to Camp 1. -June 10: Got to Kahiltna Base Camp from Camp 1 at 10:00AM but it was overcast all day so TAT could not come and pick us up. -June 11: TAT finally picked us up around noon, after we endured the most miserable and wettest night of the entire trip! Left to Right: Sultana (Mount Foraker), Begguyya (Mount Hunter), Denali Denali, the High One Heading into the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (the "Valley of Death"), the West Rib visible up the center of the peak The West Rib in the Center, The Cassin Ridge roughly up the right skyline Closer up view of the Cassin Ridge. The Japanese Couloir is the gash on the right. The Cowboy Arete (Knifedge Ridge) is above, followed by the First and Second Rock Bands Looking back at the West Rib and the Chicken Couloir Looking up the Japanese Couloir and the bergschrund at the base of the Cassin Ridge Looking back at the NE Fork Looking up at the crux of the Japanese Couloir (AI4) The Cassin Ledge. Razor thin, great views fo the whole NE Fork, Kahiltna Peaks, and Sultana! The 5.8 Crux just off the Cassin Ledge The Cowboy Arete The Base of the Hanging Glacier, the Cowboy Arete behind A short overhanging step to get over the bergshrund Colin Haley approaches! The crux of the First Rock Band, just above the M-rocks Somewhere near the top of the First Rock Band The South Face! Looking up at the "Hidden Rock Couloir", the beginning of the Second Rock Band, and the crux of the route, in my opinion Just below the V-shaped overhang in the Second Rock Band Slog to the top Denali Summit Ridge Summit Marker The Football Field on the West Buttress Route and our bivouac Heading down the Autobahn, 17k camp below on the West Buttress The Cowboy Arete Base Camp with Moonflower Buttress behind (North Buttress of Begguyya, Mount Hunter) Gear Notes: -6 screws (1x21cm, 2x17cm, 3x13cm) -40m rope -Small Rack of nuts -5 cams (.3-1) -2 pickets (didn’t use on route; just for glacier travel) -5 single alpine draws, 2 double alpine draws (no cordalette) -2 ice tools each (Nomics for him, X-Dream for her) -Monopoint crampons -Boots: Olympus Mons for him, G2SM+overboots for her -MSR AdvancePro2 Tent -Feathered Friends Spoonbill Sleeping Bag -2x Thermarest NeoAir Xtherm + 1x shorty closed cell foam pad (for emergency) -MSR Reactor + hanging kit + 3 medium cans of isopro Approach Notes: Approached via the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
  2. 3 points
    Trip: Mt Hood - Old Chute Trip Date: 06/16/2018 Trip Report: I know what you're thinking: "Old chute? Lame". Yeah, I'll tell you what's lame: How dead this forum is. Old chute will have to do (and I want to see more lame reports!). I'd been feeling extremely itchy for an interesting outing for a while. I was encouraged by the weather forecast and looking forward, but then this happened I caused this: Remember to drive with not bald, well aligned/balanced tires, especially if you go (tastefully) over the limit after fresh rain. It's much worse than it looks: the frame deformed about two inches and one of the engine mounts failed (though, very surprisingly, the engine still runs fine). The displaced engine broke a CV joint. Oh well, cars are for wussies. Invigorated, I eventually settled on using the bus to climb a new to me route on Hood: west crater rim. I started walking toward the transit center at 11:30 on Friday. Soon, civilization fades and I get my first view of the mountain: The slog was great. I don't get how people can be disappointed with it. Do a little zigzag on your way up, there's so much to see! I get AMS at the drop of a hat (literally, dropping a hat decreases air pressure around it and makes me sick) and I'm generally weak so I shared Illumination Saddle with a hardcore duo that just did Reid, a mountain rescue person and his bro, and a big group of energetic residents from Legacy who surrounded me with tents and snored all night and played my least favorite music and didn't offer me any of their alcohol despite me doing minor favors for them. Bless everyone's souls. The weather forecast called for calm clarity followed by PM clouds, wind, and snow, so I was a little surprised to emerge from my tent at 5:00 and find the upper reaches encased in angry clouds. Seemed foolish to try a new route off the beaten path above fumaroles in a likely white out, so I very loosely decided to try the Old Chute instead: familiar terrain. I hastily packed up my stuff, imagining that the visibility would only decrease (the clouds were usually about 1000 ft above us) and navigating back to the saddle would suck. Seems like I was correct, as I could hardly see anything when I left my tent and sleeping bag on some random rocks at 9300 ft somewhere between the saddle and the edge of White River glacier. I talked to a few unhappy climbers on the way down, but for some reason every interaction bumped my inclination from "prolly not" toward "this'll be extremely fun". Visibility remained about as bad as it could be up to the summit (well, it can be worse when the wind blows ice around your glasses into your eyes, thankfully none of that), and the snow conditions were excellent. It took an unexpected amount of mental energy to stay on the boot path, but it worked and it made for my favorite mountain experience so far. The contrast was so weak that I had a scary moment realizing I had to stop climbing at the summit ridge. On the way down once I was near the bogshack the clouds lifted very dramatically every now & then. Anyway, that's my hyped up ho hum story. My loveliest climb yet! Gear Notes: I think I get curved axe handles now Approach Notes: Watch out for house centipedes on your way out the basement apartments
  3. 3 points
    Trip: Northern Pickets - East Fury and Luna in a weekend Trip Date: 06/16/2018 Trip Report: Intro pic from the top of Luna: I did a solo trip up Mt Challenger a few weeks ago and enjoyed myself so much I decided I needed another dose! I've become a huge fan of weekend sufferfests. Doing stuff in a day is cool and fun, but you don't get as much of an alpine experience. I like making oatmeal at 4am in a rock bivy, waking up before sunrise at high camp, etc. etc. My pack weight for these trips is probably only 30 lbs or so anyway. I wanted to get to Luna on this trip, and figured East Fury would be a good stretch goal. I'm too cheap to pay for the water taxi, so I schlepped it 13 miles around Ross Lake and up to 10 mile shelter after work on Friday (I couldn't actually find 10 mile shelter, does it exist?). Saturday morning I started the much-not-looking-forward-to slog up Access Creek. I used the log crossing at 48.8395, -121.2090, although I could not find any kind of trail from Big Beaver trail to the river crossing. From the log jam, I headed up and right toward Access Creek (I found the higher I went the less bushy it was), and crossed Access Creek at 3k ft (thanks to the people who did Luna in a day last summer for this beta). Took about 3 hours from turning off Big Beaver trail to the headwater of Access Creek (was way faster on the way down once I improved my route-finding). The chutes up to the 6,100 ft notch were firm snow which was awesome. ^ Looking down at Access Creek The traverse to Luna Col was quick and painless with all the snow. Arrived at Luna Col at 1pm, decided to be ambitious, drop my bivy gear and try to bag East Fury. ^ East Fury from the 6100 ft notch below Luna Col. I took the right-leaning snow-ramp to the left of the major rock formations. Not sure what the standard route is. It took 3.5 hours from Luna Col to top of East Fury, and some micro-storms starting rolling through as I approached the summit. Raised my heartbeat a bit, but made for some good pictures. ^Southern pickets from Fury Back to Luna Col by 6pm and pretty exhausted, but the sky started clearing so just before sunset I couldn't resist scrambling up Luna. ^Looking north from Luna at sunset. The final ridge scramble was spicy! No snow whatsoever, but thought-provoking nonetheless. The last summit log entry was from late last summer. ^Southern Pickets and Fury from Luna Probably should have brought a headlamp up Luna. Best weekend trip to date! Gear Notes: Hiking poles and crampons Approach Notes: Ross Lake Dam - Access Creek - Luna Col
  4. 3 points
    Trip: Colchuck Peak - Colchuck Glacier Trip Date: 06/17/2018 Trip Report: We started at 6:30 AM from Stuart Trail Head and reached to Lake Colchuck at 8 AM and then base of Colchuck Glacier . Snow was hard in the morning so we put the crampons on and started ascending the glacier. There were other parties mostly skiers were heading up for dragon tail . Weather was beautiful and little cold breeze over the upper portion. Going up we had one big rock passed us some how it was lose and dropped from the right side of ridges .We reached on the the pass from where we took off the crampon and start scrambling towards right Colchuck peak, it took another 30 mins to reach the summit . . Summit was short ledges but good enough to accommodate 8-10 climbers. We spent good amount on summit and took pictures. It took us 6:30 hours to reach summit views were beautiful we took our good time and stops along the way. Once we started heading down we see more ski parties heading up , we took the same Glacier route to go down . Snow was still hard on top but almost 1000ft down snow becomes more soft easy to do plunge steps. On way down skier and snow boarder we met on summit passed us . Over all beautiful day and trip . Gear Notes: Crampon, ice axe , helmet and light Sportiva Trango Boots Approach Notes: Trail was
  5. 2 points
    We went in late June precisely because we were able to cross Bridge Creek on snow. It was great (no real snow on route, easy to navigate the glacier), and we had a snow patch at the summit bivy to melt for water. I agree that it should be fine. Or, ask @John_Scurlock!
  6. 2 points
    Trip: The Brothers - Brothers Traverse Trip Date: 05/13/2018 Trip Report: Our merry band of chosstronauts climbed both of the summits of the Brothers on the 13th of May to celebrate Nathan successfully completing another trip around the sun. There’s enough beta out there already on the traverse, so I won’t get much into blow by blow of the climb, but I wanted to share some pictures and info I would have found helpful to know before doing it. The trail up to the lake is a highway and very well maintained. On our way up, we passed a friendly WTA work group who was working on blocking switchback cuts. If you haven’t hiked this trail, there are 19 switchbacks in the first 1700ft vert. We were thankful for them on the way up, only to curse them on the way down. Such is the duality of climbing… The next few miles through the Valley of Silent Men was just as memorable as the first time I hiked up the S. Brother 8 years ago, and even more so! There’s a section of fierce blowdowns and mandatory schwacking for about a mile shortly after leaving the lake. Lots of log hopping and trying not to fall into the river all while fighting devil’s club and other pointy foliage. There is a “path” that is flagged through the wreckage, but it’s pretty much a choose your own adventure affair. I didn’t remember this section from my last ascent, so I wonder when all of it occurred, or if it’s just been a deteriorating trail for many years? Anyway, once navigated, the trail again becomes easy to follow to the Lena Forks/climbers camp. We stashed our trail runners and swapped into mountain boots here, but you could probably belay that for another mile or so until after you get through the burn. I’m sure there’s a path through there somewhere, but we didn’t find it. There is a snow finger that follows climber’s left of the burn that we used to bypass some of the bullshit, but this is melting out fast and should be trodden with care. It’s quite thin in places and the river flowing underneath is cold and fast. I punched through on the way down, but was lucky to land upright with my feet on a big rock and my hands out of the hole, keeping me from being swept underneath too far. Be careful! Don't fall in a hole The snow eventually widens into the large south couloir at the top of the burn, and it’s easy going and continuous up the slopes. We chopped a bivy around 5500 ft at some relatively “flat” spots and settled in for the night. In all, from TH to camp was about 5000 ft of vert and 10 miles. Not having done this sort of approach in quite a while, we were all pretty knackered and settled in pretty fast. The night was uneventful, save from the massive stomach cramps my dinner gave me. I usually don’t do dehydrated meals anymore for these climbs, but I found one in my kitchen and the convenience of it won out over going to the grocery store. All I’ll say is that there was a very different sort of alpine aire happening all night in my sleeping bag, which made for a very restless night. Good night south sound Woke up at 430AM the next morning to aim for the 6100” notch in the S Brother SE Ridge with the goal of gaining the Great Basin, the North peak, and then traversing to the South peak. There’s no real good description of what to aim for, and each TR seems to gain a different notch. So here’s a picture of what to shoot for, unmistakable marked. This notch seemed to match the approach notes on the Mountaineer’s website, and we found some rappel tat while climbing it, so I think it’s the correct way to go. There was only a thin finger of snow up the gully when we did it, so it may be gone by now. I’m not sure what climbing up the rock of the gully would be like, but the short sections we had to do were attention grabbing. The backside is steep snow down to the Great Basin, but nothing five minutes of face-in down climbing can’t dispatch. The great basin is quite beautiful, and it’s a really cool feature to traverse across. This is the prominent snow slope visible from far across the sound. It’s amazing to be able to look at from far away and know that you walked across there. Decent to the basin from the notch The ascent couloir to the North Brother was dispatched quickly on slightly mushy but continuous snow all the way to the ridge top. The snow will probably last for a little while longer at least. This deposits you almost right at the summit; a quick few rock moves away. The summit register on the North Brother is gone, but the anchor chain is still there. Wonder what happened to it? From here the traverse begins. Follow all the other beta that’s out there along with your own intuition and you won’t go awry. Every feature that looks impassable or sketchy from afar has options aplenty when examined up close. The climbing was all very straight forward and wasn’t difficult; if you’re doing 5.7+ moves you’re off route. I will note that we went an alternate way to finish the traverse. Instead of going through a cave/moat, and then up the steep NE face of the South peak as described in the beta, we continued to traverse to the NW face, over a rock rib, and up the NW couloir. The route described in other TRs wasn’t in for us; the snow was too unconsolidated and thin at the steepest section and it would have been asking a little much of it to hold on for 4 climbers to pass through. Our alternate way worked well with an exposed move or two of 5.choss. There’s a semi-decent crack to build a quick anchor to protect the leader during these moves here. Be careful if going this way; the snow traverse is quite steep and the rock is very loose and not trivial. There are a few very large loose blocks on this portion waiting to take out a careless climber and a fall here would be catastrophic. It goes though! From the top of the exit couloir, a short 100” scramble puts you on the summit. The traverse took us about 3 hours from the time we roped up to the time the second rope team topped out (2:15-2:30 moving time for each group). We simul climbed almost the entire route, with one static belay over the 5.choss rib. From the South summit, we were back at the TH in 6 hours, including picking up our camp on the way out and lounging around at Lena Forks swapping shoes. Overall, it was fun and a great first climb of the season. The route holds a lot of alpine challenges which all felt real, but never felt too sketchy. It’s a long way back in there though, so bring strong legs and good shoes. Gear Notes: 30m rope 2 pickets 2-3 small cams deez nutz Approach Notes: Too many switchbacks.....
  7. 2 points
    Trip: Curt-Gilbert - Meade Glacier Trip Date: 06/16/2018 Trip Report: Made a quick trip up Curtis Gilbert to ski the Meade Glacier yesterday (6/16/18). Route was fine, but really only skiable from from 7,700 feet to 6,250 - so a long walk for a few turns. It might be a better ski earlier season, but so much of the trip is up a flat river valley and wooded ridge that you'll never get a lot of vertical from a single run. If you're going to do CG, I definitely suggest doing it as an overnight so you can score a few more runs. Plus, it's a long way back in there. Car to car was like 24 miles (not completely sure because my garmin died - but I think it's a good bet). Snow starts at 6'000 feet Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, skis, Mt Bike (see approach notes) Approach Notes: South Fork Tieton road is washed out 1.2 miles before Conrad Meadows CG. From the CG, it's another 2 miles to the trailhead. I brought a Mt Bike and was able to cycle up the road, saving myself about 6.5 miles of walking in total. A note about navigation - I was using some older maps that showed trails allowing shortcuts to trail 1120. I don't recommend these. There are all kinds of trails snaking around from hikers, game, and livestock. 1120 is barely maintained, and the others not at all. I had numerous times in my day even on 1120 where I lost the trail in blow-downs and had to backtrack and search - super annoying on a long day. Also - the trails are not marked so take care to know where you're going or you'll find yourself floundering in blow-down hell. If there is snow all the way to the meadow, overland travel would not be a big deal, but if it's melted out you'll want the trail. Take trail 1120 from the trailhead. There is a passable bridge over the Tieton, but it's not in great shape. After about two miles the trail forks. It's unmarked. Take the right fork. If you take the left fork and come to a bridge after which the trail starts ascending - you've gone too far. Go back and try again. Ascend the ridge via trail. At about 5600 feet the trail forks again - it's easy to miss. You'll be able to see the cliffs of point 6250 above you and to your left. Take the right fork and ascend to the ridge top at 6000 feet. Stay on the climber's left hand side of the ridge and follow a faint path until the ridge broadens out and meadows appear (6,250'). Hike the meadow West dropping up and down until you get to a steep moraine/cliff. Ascend snow to a large bench at 6,350'. Fabulous camping here. From 6,350 ascend the glacier - for me on the right hand side and the traverse to the obvious notch at 7,700 feet just to the left of the summit pyramid. Scramble to the top and ski on back down Everything you need for a trip on the Meade Washout 1.2 miles before camp ground. It's passable on the right Meade Glacier on Curtis-Gilbert - snapped it from the bench at 6,350 during a rare moment of visibility. Most of 6/16/18 was fogged in
  8. 2 points
    Nice job on a weather window and slogging it out. BTW the two old guys with me on Sunset Ridge, we did the Cassin in 2000. Our group was called "Old and in the Way." We took 5 days on the route but had stellar weather the whole time.
  9. 2 points
    And here a GPS tracks! Cassin_Ridge.gpx And a couple extras: IMG_9713.mov IMG_9702.mov IMG_9659.mov
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Trip: Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred Trip Date: 04/15/2018 Summary: Ascent of Moose's Tooth to the summit via the route "Shaken, Not Stirred" 19 hours camp to camp with Doug Shepherd April 15th 2018. Details: Alaska. Finally. After multiple trips to Alaska every year since 2009 life priorities had forced me to take a "leave of absence" since my last trip in March of 2016. It was nice to finally return and with Doug Shepherd, someone who I've done numerous trips with including my very first trip to AK in 2009. Various existing commitments limited us to a 3 day trip but weather and temps the week leading up suggested we would likely find something we could climb during the short window. I grabbed Doug at ANC early Saturday morning and we blasted for Talkeetna. After the usual shenanigans (weight in, repack) Paul zipped us in. After looking at possible objectives on the flight in we settled on Shaken, Not Stirred on the Moose's Tooth. Though I had climbed the Moose's Tooth in 2010 it was via Ham and Eggs. I'd always wanted to climb Shaken but had never seen it in. A SLC team was coming out at the same time we were getting dropped off and had attempted it the day prior. They had bailed at the crux due to lack of ice but after quickly looking at their pictures we thought we should at least give it a try as it appeared like it would go with some mixed climbing. We departed camp later than normal on Sunday (~6 am) to allow temps to warm slightly; this allowed us to wear single boots. I took the first simul block to just below the narrows where Doug took over. Doug fired a few amazing pitches that took us to the crux which was ice free but Doug was able to safely protect and find a mixed way through the crux. Following the pitch I have to say it was a very impressive lead. Some more climbing took us to the Englishman’s Col where we enjoyed an extended hydrate + coffee break before heading to the true summit. I will say the terrain between the Englishman’s Col and the true summit is a lot of up and down with at least two rappels and nearly constant crevasse and cornice danger. "Enjoy" We tagged the summit sometime after sunset but before dark; Doug's first time and my second. We managed to start the rappels down Ham and Eggs before it got truly dark so at that point it was just hitting rap anchors and/or making naked threads as needed. We arrived back at camp ~19 hours later and flew out the following day, Monday, before heading back to the lower 48. Good times. Gear Notes: partial set of nuts, single set 00-2 c3, double set 0.4 -> 4 ultralights, 10 laser speed light ice screws, 3 micro trax, single + tag line Approach Notes: Talkeetna Air Taxi is the best
  12. 1 point
    Trip: Cruiser - S Corner Trip Date: 06/16/2018 Trip Report: Nearly nine years ago, in early August, I attempted this route and turned around on the summit of Beta. I've been overdue for a rematch. Just to make things interesting (well, I needed to be in town for Father's Day), I decided to do the climb C2C. We car camped near some side trailhead a mile or two shy of Staircase, and headed up at 5 am on Saturday. 20 hours later we were back at the car, happy, successful, and rehydrating with the beverage that proves God exists and loves us. Now for some pics to fill in details. See attachments. Continuous, firm snow from near Gladys Pass to Needle Pass View up from Needle Pass. The lower parts are unsavory, loose, exposed class 3. It gets better higher up. Better scrambling. This is more fun! Looking down the gully from the summit of Beta: Cruiser! Some minor shenanigans negotiating the moat. We solo'd the gully up to just below the chockstone, stashed our packs and did a short (silly) lead through the cannonhole. Ledge above the chockstone Summit block (taken on descent). There is one shiny bolt and an anchor with two more. I placed a few cams and a nut. Exposure on the summit is non-trivial: Summit P0rn: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet, small alpine rack Approach Notes: no snow until ha lfway from Flapjack lakes to Gladys Pass, then mostly snow until Needle Pass. From there, a moat or two to contend with but otherwise dry
  13. 1 point
    Trip: Lincoln Peak - Standard Route…I guess Trip Date: 06/11/2018 Trip Report: Trent texted Sunday night wanting to know if I was in for tomorrow. Uh, sure. For what? His partner bailed on his planned Lincoln Peak trip. Did I want to go. I haven't climbed any alpine in month's, out of climbing shape, drank all weekend with friends. Sure, I'll go. But I don't know anything about the route or approach, so Trent is the navigator on this one. We got a later start Monday so we didn't have to sit in camp for too long that afternoon. Left Burlington at 11am and drove up to the infamous FSR34. We had the secret weapon for FSR 34. Big Blue, a '79 Ford super duty beast of a truck. We drove up the road through brush and ruts to within 1 switchback of the end. Big Blue would not be denied. We then started the thrash up the old road bed. It is a thrash with plenty of slide alder, rock and an occasional trail. We broke off uphill after having enough of the road bed and enjoyed steep underbrush until finally breaking out onto snow. Surprisingly there was a fairly substantial layer of fresh snow, but travel was easy from there to high camp at the end of the ridge. We got from the car to camp in under 3 hours thanks to Blue. Great views of Lincoln and the route were enjoyed while sipping some whiskey and trying to stay warm. It was breezy and colder than we expected for the evening with clouds moving in and out. A 2am start got us to the top just after 6 for a cool sunrise. The shrund was negotiated with about 40' of steep s'nice climbing, then some crappy snow climbing with a 2" breakable crust with 4-5 inches of sugar underneath. We did have the occasional front pointing, but the large part of the climb was popping through the crust, unless you're bantamweight Trent who seemed to dance on top way more than clydesdale me. Route finding was pretty straightforward and the climbing consistently steep and enjoyable without being hairy. We broke out the rope for the final 10ft onto the summit. Great views with clear weather on top in fresh sunshine was perfect. One rappel off the summit and then we down climbed the entire route with the exception of the schrund, where we did one 30m rappel off of a picket. The steps I bitched about on the way up made for easy down climbing and back to camp. The thrash back down to Big Blue made us cuss and spit, but we made it back in 2 1/2 hours and licked our wounds with IPA spittle. All in all a great day out with Trent. The climb is really enjoyable with a bit of Rockies taste to it. If someone cut a path through that hell of an approach I think it would be a regular classic for its short climbing window. Some crappy cell phone pictures. No Jason G on this trip to capture the great images. I suck at photos. Gear Notes: 2 tools, rope, pickets, Hunters Approach Notes: Big Blue. Shwack, thrash, swear
  14. 1 point
    OK, sounds like we need to add it to the list @jon, @olyclimber. Thanks @OlympicMtnBoy and @Josh Lewis
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    My daughter was born on the solstice, so I'll be celebrating her birthday!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I am climbng Mount Hood tomorrow via the South Side. I have only done Mount Baker. Is the Old Chute or Pearly Gates better? Has anyone done the south side lately and how hard is it for a newbie?
  19. 1 point
    rabbit ears from hamilton mtn final resting spot for a beacon builder trundle before trundle after notch below the twin summits kyle on top geoff on rap anchors n' beer kyle's waiting
  20. 1 point
    Trip: Wabbit Ears - Standard Trip Date: 06/17/2018 Trip Report: ah, the elusive rabbit, cloistered in obscurity, dejected down a long ridge from table mountain, frowning upon the furious boil of bonneville dam just below - shrouded in secrecy, protected by a brushy bushwack, you kinda-sorta gotta want it trip the first a disastrous donnybrook on a memorable memorial day - geoff n' kyle n' i circled aimlessly through the woods, waylaid by a less than perfect description of the approach n' our lack of common sense - stinging nettles - beers n' black flies in the bush - the only interesting thing the old big gun platforms up on aldrich butte - we paid our respect to the builder of beacon in the cemetery there in no'bo as it was the season for the reason - how the fuck did the park not mark the centennial of the trail he built? trip the second more a solo reconnaissance in force - feverish w/ flu and tingling w/ a prophet like rage in my febrile state, i made my lonely way up the proper trail now with a big roll of surveying tape, intent on establishing the right track for the 'swack so we could return and do the fucking thing proper - more stinging nettles - more flies - but this time a happy ending - got a great trundle as my reward, and then a silly tumble down the approach gully as my reminder i've become a sad old man w/ feet made numb by nattering nabobs and cruel concrete... the proverbial third time then was the charm - big thunderstorms the day before so we rallied a bit late in camas in the baleful hope the sunday heat would cook off the sodden bush - didn't help what was to be a stolid humid hike - an hour of slow plodding and dripping sweat and we were at the PCT and girding ourselves for the 'swack, which went well now that it's so masterfully marked - geoff declined to wear pants and paid the price - never seen a lawyer run so fast or yelp so loud as when a whole forest-full of yellow-jackets lit into his legs we got up to the notch and made ready to do battle - me mostly just trying to vent the buckets of snot that illness and pollen have bestowed upon me - here i sit atop the scene of my trundling crime after a beer and a butt, kyle was already tied in and shot off like a rocket - the first pitch has no pro but a single slim tree, but it's just 3rd/4th class gravel so i guess who cares? funky anchor where it attains the crumbling ridge a single 70 sufficed for the 3 of us, doubly so since geoff oddly decided to solo the first, most exposed bit - me coming up the first pitch later the twin summit is a just a heavily-laden swallow's flight away from here - i set out w/ a bunch of useless gear - an easy traverse on a gravel path, a decent bolt, and then a bit of a head-scratcher - everything crumbly as hell - there's plenty of exposure - you can plainly see the notch between the 2 summits you want, but how to get there? after hemming and hawing, i mantled up to just below the overhang below the notch using a tiny sapling about as big round as a pencil, which got me to a place i could sling a more reassuring tree - mantled on that, certain everything my feet were touching was about to go crashing down towards the columbia, but then it was done and i was in the notch, where you could actually place a 3-4 inch cam, but ironically of course it's no longer necessary as there's an anchor at an uncomfortable stance geoff followed i brought up kyle next and he led up the 35 feet or so to the higher rabbit ear - there was a single fixed pin for pro and a funkyish anchor atop - the other ear looked wierder and we skipped it the lower ear and me in the notch kyle on top and the anchor of ages bonneville dam, the pct, lake gillette and the anchor of ages certainly enough exposure to get a godless guy good n' kilt summit or death! quick, nobody look at the camera kinda a funky rap to get back to the approach gully - with our 70 we could rap straight down to the bolt, then walk on rap back the gravel path, around the lower tower to the first anchor - kyle went last and pulled the rope from the bolt, then got belayed back to the first anchor a 2nd rap and we were back to the top of the approach gully as the thunder began to roll and rain appeared in the distance set up a rap to avoid tumbling down the gully like i did the previous time - was easier just to use the rope as a handline though so none of us actually hooked in - we scooted back across the bushwack as fast as could be, certain the storm would break, but in the end it missed us and pounded points west - back at the car after a leisurely 6 hour affair, we waxed philosophic and grew great after mending our previously wounded pride - the road resplendent with rising steam from the recent storm, the air fresh and clean, the sun bright and cool, summer's appearance was clear and that was call enough for smiling as we each went our separate ways Gear Notes: couple long slings for trees/bushes - maybe a knifeblade or 2, but really there's not much by way of pro beyond vegetation, a newish bolt and a fixed pin Approach Notes: from 14, turn north just by the dam as if going to the n bonneville hot springs (now a rehab facility) - turn right onto cascade drive and stay on it as it turns and curves, passes the old resort and follows the lake - a little over a mile past the old resort the road turns to gravel and a nasty "private property - we will tow your ass away" sign appears - there's a tiny bridge here too - park here, before the signs (you can drive past them at first just to recon the scene) - there's room for 2-3 cars (this is the best/shortest approach for doing the table mtn loop now that the resort is closed) walk down the road about a hundred yards to where the power line maintaince road goes up right - follow the maintaince road for about 100 yards when it branches off to the left and becomes an old logging road - follow this steep old road bed for about a mile until it reaches carpenters lake - ignore the first primitive trail that cuts off right and about 150 yards past the lake, a sign points you left to aldrich butte (ignore) and right to table mtn (take this) - follow the trail towards table mtn for another mile until it connects with the PCT - from here you can just kinda see the rabbit through the tall trees - turn right and go all of 50 feet down the PCT to start the bushwack - currently very well marked with pink surveying tape - only 1/3 mile or so - thick ferns and nettles at first, then trees n' talus and side-hilling - the goal is to get to the steep gullyish thing that leads up to the notch that separates the rabbit from the ridge leading up to table mtn - total approach time 1 1/2 - 2 hrs
  21. 1 point
    "International Day of Yoga, or commonly and unofficially referred to as Yoga Day, is celebrated annually on 21 June since its inception in 2015. An international day for yoga was declared unanimously by the United Nations General Assembly. " Unanimous!! The UN!! 2015!! So many levels of humor
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    But who is the boss, really? ... Nope our packs were the same weight, both when leading and following. On the upper 2K foot wallow, one 1.5L water bottle move back and forth between leader and follower. Last year we summited Denali, so we knew we dealt with 20K feet OK. We got the idea from the Smileys who had a similar schedule and felt the altitude but managed. http://smileysproject.blogspot.com/2015/06/denalis-cassin-ridge-classic-climb-45_25.html We asked our paying bosses, very nicely.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Nice TR. Thanks for posting. It's smart to go up there when snow is still covering a lot of features, like that gully in your photo. When those melt out they'll be unpleasant at best, dangerous in many cases, and downright impassable at worst. Challenger solo in a weekend? That's a lot of ground to cover and a big glacier as well. Be safe, have fun, post more TRs! Cheers, Rad
  26. 1 point
    Guys, you know you can do both at the same time? Don't limit yourself! Even if you're a knee dropper, there's a single stick out there for you!
  27. 1 point
    Awesome work you two! Excellent write up and I love you got a photosphere on the summit!!! (I got the West Buttress route photosphered, just had to go back for the summit!)
  28. 1 point
    The is the best Old Chute TR I've read in a long time. Keep the lame TRs coming! (and slow down)
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    cooper spur on n side of mt hood is quite lovely, especially if you choose to bivy near tie in rock for the high alpine experience - can certainly be done easily in a day though, especially if cloud cap road is opened by then
  31. 1 point
    I have solo'd many Cascade peaks, pretty much any of the main lines on Hood can be solo'd safely, South Sister, Middle Sister, and few routes on North Sister can be solo'd. N. Ridge as well West Side of Jefferson. On Adams the South side and Pinnacle Glacier.
  32. 1 point
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  34. 1 point
    https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/tripreport You may have to be logged in to use the page above though @Josh Lewis....maybe that was the issue?
  35. 1 point
    For you adventure types. https://youtu.be/Uh9SQh8-y4I
  36. 1 point
    Trip: Mount Temple - Greenwood Jones Trip Date: 08/03/2017 Details: Given the reputation and lore select Canadian Rockies north faces hold I've always wanted to climb one but never had the opportunity minus a failed attempt on GCC on Kitchner way back in the late fall of 2008. High my list was/is any route on Mount Temple but avy conditions in the winter and grizzly conditions in the summer/fall had prevented me from ever trying. My understanding is most years the CAN parks require (communists ) a minimum party size of 4 for anyone entering the area below the north face or risk BIG fines (and possibly a grizzly encounter ). As finding another team of 2 keen on an alpine start that was also willing to climb a different route was pretty much impossible I never have had a chance to try. However in August of 2017 I heard they made the party size a recommendation and not a requirement. Lucky for me Daniel Harro was also keen so we pointed it north. Based on dawn & sunrise times and our plan to filter water at the lake we settled on a 3:30 departure. We started the face slightly later than I had hoped and wandered around trying to make sense of the beta before settling into the route. Everything you heard is true: choss to perfection and everything in between. Not the worst rock I have climbed but Oregon volcano climbers have a high threshold. Managed to climb it without placing pins but we definitely clipped a few along the way. All in all an awesome route and deserving of the status. I definitely want to come back for Greenwood Locke (in colder temps) and the Cardiac Arete on the Grand Sentinel looks awesome. We found this TR in conjunction the most useful for route finding but even then we scratched our heads more than once and I had to reverse/downclimb a few false starts. Pins can show the way as well as get you way off route If you try to do it in a day (which I recommend as it makes the packs more manageable) you need to save as much daylight as possible for the descent; I would expect attempting to follow the cairns down in the dark even with a headlamp challenging at best especially if you go back to your car via Paradise Valley. A google search will turn up more than a few TRs that detail a night spent out high on the mountain. Gear Notes: Standard rack. Took pins but didnt use them. Crampon and mini ice axe. Approach Notes: Opted for the car to car option
  37. 1 point
    SP is dead to us. There is only Cascade Climbers.
  38. 1 point
    Trip: Mt. Rainier - Sunset Ridge Trip Date: 05/25/2018 Trip Report: Geezers on the Go or Fading into Sunset Ridge. Having done routes from Carbon River, White River, and Paradise I have always wanted to do a west side route. Two of my partners from many years joined in on the fun. The average age was 62 with a combined over 120 years in the hills. We did the usual hike from the West Side Road via the no longer maintained Tahoma Creek trail. From the along Emerald Ridge which we never saw cause we ascend into the clouds we gained the terminus of the Tahoma and crossed it somewhere. Eventually we broke out of the clouds and camped below Puyallup Cleaver at around 6800 feet. In the morning we gained the cleaver and followed it to around 8500 at which point we bailed left and crossed until the South Mowich. We roped up but the crossing was very straight forward and we headed up initial lower slope to 9500 feet. At this point there is a bergshrund across the whole of the lower apron/ridge. We crossed more to the left. Again straight forward but sloppy snow. We bivied at the bergshrund. The next morning hoping to have an overnight freeze which did not occurred we launched upwards. The climbing was at around 45 degrees. The higher up the firmer the snow got. We pretty much side stepped the vast majority of the route. We stayed mostly to the climbers left and found several places to rest. Including one great spot with 60-70 foot high conglomerate walls just waiting to pitch bowling ball sized rocks down. From here a few hundred feet more of climbing and we gained the ridge proper and had great views of Sunset Amphitheater. Until this point we had climbed roped or unroped sans any gear. Once on the ridge proper we followed it until we need to down climb around a short 30 foot section of bare rock (by passed via snow). This lead to the finial pinnacle which forces one out on to the Mowich Face. Here again the climbing was straight forward we stayed more climbers right (two pitches), traversed left (~one pitch), then gained the ridge (~one pitch). Overall 45-55 degree climbing with pickets. My one partner did most all of the leading, my excuse for not contributing was being tired having climbed S. Sister a few days before. Our other partner is just a geezer. After that we traversed the ridge to Liberty Cap which was good fun cause we could see where in the past we had topped on either the Central or North Mowich headwalls, Ptarmigan (including an infamous bivy), Liberty and Curtis Ridge. So it was a bit of nostalgia for all. Especially for me since Sunset Ridge was my 10th different route on the hill and exactly 35 years to the weekend since my first attempt on Rainier. Overall conditions were a bit soft at the mid elevations. The approach was manageable even in the clouds. Route finding was straigtforward. On the other hand, we slept warm - including the last night less than 100 feet below Columbia Cap. I'll add some photos soon. Oh, being from out of the area we stayed at Gateway Inn and Cabins which is right before the Park entrance before and after our climb. The folks are very accommodating so I'll give them a plug. Gear Notes: 3 Pickets and 3 screws (the later not used). Two tools 60cm axe and 50 cm hammer. Approach Notes: West Side Road via Tahoma Creek
  39. 1 point
    does it have any yucky old bivy smell?
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    bags that won't let water into them if they get wet.