Tom_Sjolseth Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Trip: Snoqualmie Mountain - Pineapple Express Date: 2/19/2011 Trip Report: Wayne and I climbed Pineapple Express on the North Face of Snoqualmie Mountain today. We started off from the parking lot around 5:15. We took our time heading up the Phantom Slide under vibrant moonlight. After some technical difficulties including a dropped camera, we soloed the first two pitches on perfect alpine ice. We roped up at the base of the third pitch and belayed three pitches from there, simuling the ledge traverse. The route is in fat conditions right now. In fact, NY Gully, Blue Moon, and Pineapple Express are all fat. On the way out, we ran into a few cc.com locals and rendezvous'd with them at NBB&G for beers and food. What a great day! Thanks to Wayne for being a great partner and leading the money pitch. Quote
Dane Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Whale blubber size fat! Better get on it Quote
mick_scott Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Sweet Tom - Glad you got out in the sunshine. All I could do is look out from the city in between shifts at work. Thanks for the report - Nice photos Quote
wayne Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Tom and I had another great day in the mountains,>it was my 4th try at the route.. It was great except for dropping my camera 200', taking a lead fall, and severe leg cramps after the crux, really it was fun, . Thanks to Tom for pushing through, and Dave, Kellie, and Kurt for not too much hate for walking up the ski tracks. Still cant figure out why there isnt lines of climbers up there. Quote
genepires Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 does Tom get reception with those antennae that are strapped to his backpack? Full stereo on route. Nice job. I suspect there are not lines because we all suck and you don't. (come on, if you take a lead fall and get leg cramps, what hope is there for the most of us?) and some of us were sport climbing at erie. Quote
mhux Posted February 21, 2011 Posted February 21, 2011 What would you say the route goes at when its this fat? Nice job! Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted February 21, 2011 Author Posted February 21, 2011 @Gene.. funny, I said the same thing about the antennae. @mhux.. Considering the crux had essentially no ice covering the slab, the M6 rating seems legit. The final crack above NY Gully felt difficult to me.. 5.8 in crampons, but good pro. The first two pitches of PE are straightforward right now (AI3). So straightforward that we felt fine soloing. I didn't see any WI at all on the entire route. I'd say the only difference between the grade the original party established and the difficulty you'd experience in current conditions is that the R rating could be dropped. So IV, AI3, 5.8, M6 seems right. Wayne could probably elaborate more. Quote
tanstaafl Posted February 22, 2011 Posted February 22, 2011 Strong work you two and nice pics. I love that one with the pink glow on the mtns. Way to take advantage of a gorgeous day. Nice having beers with you. Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted February 22, 2011 Author Posted February 22, 2011 Likewise. Except I'm still paying for the meatloaf. Quote
AlpineK Posted February 22, 2011 Posted February 22, 2011 What doesn't kill you makes you stronger Nice to see you guys Quote
Friedrich Posted February 24, 2011 Posted February 24, 2011 Ausgezeichnet! Great pics too. Well done! Quote
wetslide Posted February 8, 2012 Posted February 8, 2012 Anyone been on this route or NY gully recently and want to comment on conditions? Quote
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