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Everything posted by mhux

  1. I remember seeing something about drytooling at rocky butte a while back (in fact I think there was even a mixed climbing party there?), and I'd love to get out and practice there. Any suggestions on ethics/routes/ratings from those who know?
  2. Pretty familiar with the NW but haven't been around for a year, coming back Friday for a few weeks to climb/ski whats in. I've heard that the snowpack is good but recently it has been warm, more June than May. Wondering if the classic N face routes still in or is it more volcano corn season? Thinking Hood, Dragontail, Stuart, and other May alpine ice routes. Any recommendations for routes you enjoy in these conditions are welcome too! Thanks in advance, and see you out there! Max
  3. North Faces conditions

    No bites? Trailheads are still snowed in, stuff up high must still be good...
  4. Holy linkup....nice work condensing a season on Hood into one day!
  5. [TR] Dragontail Peak - NE couloir 3/1/2015

    Mixed pitch looks straight out of Chamonix...gotta love the Stuart range! Nice work and great pictures!
  6. [TR] Dragontail - Gerber-Sink variation? 3/24/2015

    Nice, love the bailure mentality getting pushed out by awesome climbing!! Dragontail is looking super fat...way to get it
  7. Loving the drone vids as well, really unique way to present the towers/utah desert. What an incredible place...
  8. PLB (PSA?) plug

    Reading some TRs recently, I've noticed a lot of PLB usage and following discussions of brands and benefits, so I thought I'd chime in with my experience. This is basically a big plug for the Delorme Inreach, the device is pretty awesome and will probably save you a headache at some point (I'm not associated with Delorme in any way, I wish I was getting paid for this!). In short, it saved mothers and girlfriends a lot of stress, due to the 2 way communication (versus an ok/not ok/emergency option scheme). While it was sort of silly to be texting my mom, my gf, my friends mom and his gf from a remote Himalayan valley (/spray), it was nice knowing they weren't having daily panic attacks imaging us dying in various ways. Instead they were racking up the texting bill, to my dismay! I balked at the initial price (+ subscription, ugh), but you can use it worldwide (unless that's changed) and it might save you a costly ride home since you can communicate with to-be rescuers. Stay safe out there!
  9. PLB (PSA?) plug

    Yeah, I guess it doesn't make a ton of sense to have the 2way stuff on a day or two out in the Cascades...good expedition tool though. Should have thought of that before posting! If you can/are willing to afford it though its pretty neat...
  10. RIP Portland/Anchorage climber Dasan...

    Dasan was introduced to me by one of his best friends. His 100% stoke for getting after it was infectious and we quickly became friends. We only got out together a few times, skiing, climbing, but he truly loved being in the mountains (why he moved to Alaska!) and I was always hearing of his latest ice sends or alaska range plans. One time we tried to climb the Reid headwall without any sleep and get back in time for morning class, needless to say it didn't work out but I was lucky enough to share one of the most beautiful sunrises I've ever seen with him, while skiing rime to the car. It was far too early for someone this enthusiastic about living to go....its unreal that he's gone. Condolences to his family, friends, and all who he inspired. Rest in peace Dasan.
  11. Here's a pic of what montypiton was talking about, for what its worth (Hubba hubba routes, 12/3/14):
  12. Close to Wenatchee

    You could go ramble up Cashmere's west ridge right now...or Colchuck (walk up the glacier, or couloirs if they're in), or Dragontail...or Grindstone (up chatter creek?) or something further up the icicle (don't know about the road access though).
  13. Just went for a peek up the icicle, the ice is trying but needs more precip. Forgot my camera otherwise I'd spray picture beta too! Hubba whatever (the main flow) by bridge creek is probably the fattest line in the canyon (that I saw), definitely not huge yet though and the first pitch has some big chunks missing and needs to form more. Lower 8mi buttress has ice coming in but looks a bit like verglas over slab, sort of the general theme... Some gully by the sword looked fattish up high but looks to get a lot of sun and the real ice looks real short Rambly stuff on the south side of the canyon by hook/rat creek looks good, if you like hiking and rambly lines Careno is pretty patchy, but there's a wet looking pillar in a corner that might go at M5 or so? (Don't know if that's a climb so maybe don't scratch it up?) If you're dying for ice no matter what you could probably make something work but good luck. Also pm me if I have violated any local ethics/ hush-hush whatever, but if you have eyes and drive (really slowly) up the icicle this is what you'll get.
  14. Here's colchuck and dragontail from monday from 4th of july trail, looking a bit bony for the NBC but dragontail is filling in nicely. More pics to come
  15. Went up to colchuck yesterday, dragontail has a nice start to the season and there's some low angle flows around the lake that look fat. Everything that seeps in the icicle has ice forming, getting fatter day by day. Still pretty thin but off to a good start! the stuff above the bridge creek campground (is that hubba hubba?) is looking promising given a week or two (and probably more precip). Drury is on its way, obviously forming well though a chunk is missing near the top (sun baked or never froze?) Snow level is basically colchuck (so 5400'?) and there's minimal on the ground even there, everything below that should be frosty and dry. If you like sketchy thin ice and or mixed climbing, you might take a gander...lots of stuff up mountaineers creek that would be sick 5ish pitch lines with a brutal bushwhack, almost formed up. Go see for yourself! (edit: will add pictures once uploaded to computer)
  16. [TR] Mt Stuart - Direct North Ridge 7/26/2014

    http://nwgranite.blogspot.com/2014/05/climbers-and-assholes-who-rock-climb.html Need I say more? Classic routes attract proportionately more assholes. Also, why would you waste your time on route not climbing the great gendarme? Talk about disappointing
  17. Recently I've been reading about clove hitching pieces in line to create anchors- plug a few pieces, and clove hitch the rope taut between them. In such a scenario, how would you belay a second up, not off your harness? I can't think of how you would use a belay device in autolocking mode with this setup, anyone have two cents they'd like to contribute? Maybe the answer is obvious but I'm just missing it. Thanks in advance.
  18. Tumwater fire and the Enchantments

    Scratch that, its pretty windy out and by this weekend things will be bleak...or just hazy.
  19. Tumwater fire and the Enchantments

    I live 5 miles up the blewitt from town and the smoke is visible, but seems to be more east-west than north-south...considering the enchantments are just west of where I'm at, you'll probably be alright, especially up high. Can't say you'll see much to the north...cheers
  20. Right, I'd just use it for swapping leads. Good reminder though
  21. Great stuff, thanks for the tips! All makes sense now...
  22. Why would you want to in such a circumstance...? To reap the benefits of an autolocking belay device...because its easy and allows you to multitask, in other words. Is that what you mean?
  23. Hey there, just moved up to Leavenworth about a week ago, and I don't know anyone besides my girlfriend, our roommates, and some coworkers. I'm newish to granite and to trad, but have a good amount of general climbing experience so I wouldn't consider myself a sketchy gumby (also, I try to be safe and smart). I really want to get better at trad and open up the possibilities for the alpine stuff in the area, though I don't really care what type of climbing I do- even bouldering is rad although I suck by most standards. I get far too psyched to not climb all the time, and I'd love to meet some locals, so send me a pm. If anything, I can give you a good belay and a friendly partner for the day. I have Sundays and Mondays totally off, otherwise I think mornings and afternoons work best. Cheers!! Max
  24. I've climbed Torment this way the last two years, last year in August there were no cracks in the (Taboo? I forget) glacier and we could down climb about 10 feet of steepish ice into the berg, where there were good stances for switching to rock shoes. I wouldn't recommend this route, since the entire thing is threatened by a big ice block (which apparently killed Craig Luebben?), and the climb out of the berg, while on solid rock, has some pretty sketchy 'mid 5th' sections which aren't fun to solo. Once on the face, its easy scrambling to the top though- very cruiser. Just that getting there sucks/is sketchy. Haven't done the S ridge but I'm over the SE face...
  25. I'm not Crushing and it's Bumming me Out

    you obviously need more redbull- it gives you wingz, after all.