Colin Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 Climb: Mt. Robson-North Face Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: I climbed the North Face of Robson on Saturday, after biking/hiking into the Robson-Helmet col on Friday. Descent was made by the Kain Route. I didn't have a watch and so I don't know times of specific parts of the trip, but I left the Robson-Helmet col at sunrise and got back to the trailhead at 8:15pm. The approach rock buttress is tedious, but there are lots of cairns, so routefinding is easy. The glacier from the top of the buttress to the col is very broken up, and some tricky navigation is required. The North Face is in good condition - icy enough for good sticks the whole way, but soft enough to rest one's calves often. On the upper Emperor Ridge I traversed on the north side for about 200 ft. The Kain route seemed fine as well, but had one large crevasse/bergsrund that will provide a bit of difficulty. Getting from the base of the Kain route back up to the Robson-Helmet col is straightforward, but puts you under a large cornice for the last 200 ft. Gear Notes: -30m rope -2 screws, 2 pins, runners, harness Approach Notes: -Take a mountain bike (one can bike the first 7km) -Hike in a pair of tennis shoes. Not only will they be more comfy, but you can ford the river in them (crossing barefoot was quite painful). Quote
layton Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 damn dood, you're not getting shut down by much! I'm glad the mtn was in good condition. the southern part of the range is super super dry! what's the angle on the face? Quote
genepires Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 damn...did it like it was a weekend warrior climb...great job! Quote
Colin Posted August 15, 2004 Author Posted August 15, 2004 The face is about 50-60 degrees. I saw a large rockfall when I was in the Bugaboos about 4 weeks ago - I can only imagine what it must be like after all this hot weather. Quote
MCash Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 That's pretty amazing to solo that climb and get all the way down and back past snowdome to the trailhead in about 14 hours! Most parties take 4 days for the entire thing in perfect weather, 3 days on what you did in a single daylight push. Congradulations. Quote
fern Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 most parties don't take bikes though do they? Quote
Juan Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 Colin: You're killin' me. Terry Ahern says "hi." Your name came up this weekend on Shuksan. Sharp Quote
Jedi Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 You can only bike the 1st 7km (campground at Kinney Lake). If you go light as Colin you can ride a bike. most parties laden with 45-50lb packs will not chose to ride the 1st 7km cause you ass would swallow the seat and post. Some single track. Nice work Colin! Quote
Bronco Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 I think Colin should be banned from CC.com. His Trip Reports are starting to freak me out. Quote
layton Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 The only TR's that freaked me out was his J-berg Avy Retard-fest, and his trip with Don Serl on the bowling alley ice face. That being said, we've all done stupid shit like that, and am super jealous about some of his climbs. Quote
layton Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 P.S. : Colin, I'm sure you're tired after trips like that, but you GOTTA add some anticdotes or emotion, or something! Get creative on your TR's! Hide the spray under a funny story, a scary story, or how you felt... Quote
mvs Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 All Colin has to do is exist and I'm a better climber thanks to the example. A brew, of sorts! Quote
Buckaroo Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 "most parties laden with 45-50lb packs will not chose to ride the 1st 7km cause you ass would swallow the seat and post" This is true, but when we did Assiniboine we took bikes for the first 11 miles. From the trailhead we had regular rear bike racks that we were going to strap our packs to but they were too big and cumbersome to stay in place. We carried them on our backs but it's very hard to control a bike on rough terrain with 45lbs. swinging around on your back. On the trip back we got smart and took all the heavy stuff and put it in a sleeping bag sized stuff sack on each bikes little rack. Made ALL the difference. With only 25/30 lbs on the back it was a cruise. On the Assiniboine trail it was 11 miles downhill back to the car, made it in about an hour.... sweet. There was even a bike rack to lock up to where the bike trail ended on the approach. Now when I go to Canada for a long road trip I take a bike. Many approaches allow them, it's a lot better than in the states. Quote
Juan Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 Klenke -- you crack me up. Zip it up Michael! But don't snag the twig or the berries along the way. Sharp Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 This is true, but when we did Assiniboine we took bikes for the first 11 miles. I assume you're talking about the Shark Mountain approach? Sadly they don't allow bikes past the 7km mark anymore. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Damn Colin, nice job! When I first read your TR I was impressed, but after seeing Robson a few weeks ago, I'm now really impressed. btw - here is some Robson porn: Quote
mvs Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 Whoa, drool... Can I take it out of my pants again? Quote
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