ryanl Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Date: 6/3/2012 Trip Report: Yesterday I made a resolution to become more comfortable with uncertainty throughout the day. I left my home in Seattle around 2 and was hiking towards Colchuck lake at 4:30. I couldn't make up my mind whether to ski or to climb, or to do both. The NW face of Colchuck looked prime to ski: A group of 5 or so, and another of 2, were making their way up Colchuck Glacier by the time I arrived. Since I wanted part of neither company nor an audience, I set off towards Prusik. I managed to skin all the way up Asgaard without ski crampons, thinking the whole way up- "this might actually ski pretty well!" I had a fun traverse to the base of Prusik where wind howled hard and clouds came and went. Precip threatened. Without a rope or harness I didn't want to get caught high up in a storm, so I sat and watched the weather for a bit: Around noon I felt good enough about things to switch into rock shoes and begin the climb. What fun climbing! The opening crack made me feel good about things: More Prusik I climbed and down-climbed the first few sequences to gain confidence. Before I knew it I arrived at the slab pitch. Here, circumstance provided a wonderful opportunity to savor uncertainty. I started and retreated several times. Then I stood where I was and focused on my breath. My heart rate slowed but became more powerful. I stretched my left foot out onto the face and breathed slowly while I transferred my weight. Then I reached for a nubbin', then the crest, moved my feet, then the jug. No use practicing the down-climb now. I was in it. At the final summit block I missed the squeeze chimney (probably because I wanted to) and headed further left. When I topped out below the summit I realized my mistake and retraced my steps. I stood staring at the chimney for a few minutes and again slowed my breathing. That's all it took. On the summit I couldn't relax too much for fear that my terrible memory would betray me. That, and my adrenaline was flowing. Still, the top of Prusik is a pretty spectacular place to have to one's self. I made sure to appreciate it. I think I enjoyed the down climb more than the climb. At each step-- I think steps better describe the climbing than pitches-- I would stand and stare at the moves before turning around and lowering myself over the ledge. It was sort of like a game in which you try to re-enact in reverse order the movements of someone you watched doing something. I hardly hesitated at the slab pitch. It felt much easier going down than up. Still, once I finished it a rush of.....something came over me that I can still feel. I think it took me 2 hours total base to base. By then the clouds had broken and I had breaks of blue sky to backlight my smiles. It didn't take very long to skin back to Asgaard where the firm snow of the morning had softened into a pleasant variety of corn. Big sweeping turns made a perfect dessert. I climbed the West ridge and the Burgner-Stanley last summer. SO MUCH MORE ENJOYABLE not having to hike the whole way out! Good climbing AND good skiing in the same day?! I love Washington. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 An impressive outing! Thanks for sharing what was I'm sure a powerful experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Nice! Way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy J Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Good story! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Great TR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 What a playground! Thanks for posting your experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Wow. Great job downclimbing the route. That definitly ups the challenge. I feel I'm climbing my best when I can embrace the uncertainty. Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeShy Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Simply wow! I was one of the group of four you chatted with just below Prusik Pass. We were wondering if you'd actually get to climb, glad to hear it went well. Great TR too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 indeed, downclimbing is always the icing on the cake. downclimbed a favorite pitch of mine the other day and in the end found it easier than going up it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Every move you make you're closer to the ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Every move you make you're closer to the ground! plus it's harder to get lichen in yer eyes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsvik Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Awesome trip Ryan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 sounds like you didnt have any fun. and that is always what I strive for. climbing=no fun. nice trip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Powerful writing! I free soloed a bit when I was younger. Your words captured the feeling perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 daaaaang, ryan. you looked so chilled out friday night, wouldn't have guessed you had some awesome adventures in the works. inspired by gratuitous consumption of prosecco? great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Your TRs are always excellent reads. Keep 'em coming Ryan! Great job on the downclimb as well :tup:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Uncertainty + Risk + Commitment = Rewarding Experience Nice job ryan. d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 are you certain this doesn't belong in the freshiez forum? i'm not certain whether to be envious or laudatory. but certainly a good story, including the pre-prosecco prep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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