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Everything posted by LukeShy

  1. Awesome work you two! Excellent write up and I love you got a photosphere on the summit!!! (I got the West Buttress route photosphered, just had to go back for the summit!)
  2. I found some gear around the great northern slab area Sunday June 28th. Message me with details of what you lost.
  3. [TR] Dome Peak - Dome Glacier 6/13/2015

    Yes, it was a long day. After going in last year(only go Dome), we knew the best way up Downey Creek, made good time there. After dropping camping gear at Cub Lake we headed to the col and Sinister summit. 16 hr from TH, Sinister summit, and Cub Lake camp round trip.
  4. [TR] Dome Peak - Dome Glacier 6/13/2015

    Nice work on climbing Dome, it certainly is a haul in there! Here's what the schrund looks like to get on the Chickamin Glacier as of June 6th. To the left and right sides were wide open and required a big jump to cross. I heard a team went in the weekend after to climb Sinister as well and went the same way across the schrund. Sinister Peak - Flickr Set [img:left]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/18293459263_33dccc067d_b.jpg[/img]
  5. Congrats on finishing the Top 100 Tim! Great photos from the trip, that's a really beautiful area.
  6. Trip: Mt. Goode / Storm King - NE Buttress / Standard Choss Date: 7/26/2014 Trip Report: Lots of beta out there on NEB and SK. So I'll stick to the pictures and current route conditions. Flickr Photo Set Our Route (caltopo map) Hike in was uneventful 15 miles. Grizzly Creek required boots off crossing 3x times and the North Fork Bridge Creek was easily crossed at the first clearing. (other party out that day found a log to cross just upstream) Once across we climbed the slabs just right of the left-most waterfall and through the "magical alder tunnel" to the open meadows and bouldery slopes below the glacier to easily find 5,200' camp. Looking up from the NF Creek Crossing 5200' Camp Photosphere No glacier death blocks were heard falling all night so we were stoked that getting onto the glacier would be feasible. The next day we awoke at 4 AM, packed up, and headed up and left towards the 5,400' bivy. From that bivy we went straight up the slabs to the base of the glacier than did the rightward traverse below the hanging glacier quickly crossing to the snow ramp and safety. Crossing the DANGER ZONE We roped up and did a big 'S' route to get above the crevasses, following a bootpack from the day before (thanks!) to get to the moat. Once there we found the awesome fatty snow ramp that lead right to the base of the route. No moat shenanigans were had. Easy Moat Crossing via Snow Ramp Matt and I headed out first, simuling up and towards the buttress crest. From there we swapped leads, I took over and headed us towards the class 3-4 portion. Our other team took a bit different way, trying to be more direct, it didn't work so we waited a while for them to catch up. Once they did we headed up class 3-4 terrains until the buttress steepened. Matt climbing the lower NEB From there we got back on the crest (clipped an old Beckey piton!) climbed, manteled, climbed, manteled, etc. until we got close to the big bivy ledge (2 simul leads). I traversed up and right into the gully below the ledge to access it. We took a break there allowing our partners to catch up a bit. Dustin and Nips on route (taken from big bivy ledge) From there it was another couple mid 5th simul pitches to the summit. It felt great to finally get to the top after a ton of climbing. We waited for our other team, snacked, signed the register and enjoyed the amazing weather and views. Summit Views Mt. Goode Summit Tiny Planet and Summit Photosphere The decent was fairly simple. 2 raps got us to the black tooth notch ledge traverse. Than 2 more down the SW couloir to infinite class 3 choss. It was nearly 8:30 PM by the time we got to great bench at 7,700'. We quickly made dinner, fed faces, and than passed out (after fighting off the rats, apparently they have a taste for human flesh) to get up early to climb Storm King. SW Couloir Descent - Views very nice! Choss not so much... Sunset Pano (Camp was down at the heather bench) We woke up early and were out by 5:45am heading towards SK along the 7400' traverse. The snow hardened up so we put on 'pons and cruised to the base. We climbed the far right gully to get to the north side and than began the exposed traverse to get to the final scramble. Storm King-landia Basin SK Ledge Traverse - we set up a fixed line for the actual 'duck down' move Dustin - Maximum Stoke Storm King Tiny Planet and Photosphere One rap, exposed traverse, down climbed the gully, and the simple backtrack along the ~7400' traverse got us to the base of Goode. WE than headed down the meadows below to find the climbers trail on the right side of the creek. It was 1 PM when we hit the trail, maximum heat, so we began our slog out. It was warm and uneventful until we were almost back to N Fork Camp where we found 2 bears feeding their faces full of blueberries giving 0 craps about us no matter how much noise we made. They finally wondered off the trail and we quickly moved on and hiked to the junction at N Fork Trail where we'd stashed trail shoes. Sadly my bag hanging in a tree was stolen/taken/eaten (WTF!), but Matt's shoes were OK so after a little break we hiked the remaining 10 miles out getting to the TH at 9:30 PM. Bear feeding face Nipples is tired of hiking Amazing trip climbing a classic route (and a choss pile) with some great friends. It was an awesome way to spend my birthday weekend. Gear Notes: Alpine Rack 60m rope - worth it for raps (we shortened to 35m to simul) rock shoes not required - mountaineering boots only for few intermittent 5th class moves. Approach Notes: Long hike in via Bridge Creek TH, 4 creek crossings, find the "magic alder tunnel", bivy sites at 5200' or 5400'. Long hike out via Park Creek Trail to Bridge Creek TH, 18+ mile slog on good trail.
  7. Definitely mountaineering boots only. Many ledges to stand on between 5th class moves the entire route. I'll have to add snafflehound to my alpine vocabulary! (Gladly Nips is still alive and didn't die of a snafflehound born disease as we originally feared )
  8. [TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 11/23/2013

    Thanks for posting the photos of the fun ice section! Glad you guys had fun too. I ended up at Muir around 7 pm - a rad way to finish out a day of climbing!
  9. Washington Climber Weather Forecast Weather Matrix

    Thanks you for the work on this, its great to see all the forecast in one place to see where to chase the sun! For those looking for an immediate mobile solution to look at NOAA forecasts try Unofficial NOAA for Android. It pulls the daily forecast, hourly data, discussion, and radar (not the best, but it works) into a fairly easy interface. You can save any location you select on the map so you can pick anywhere for a localized forecast. Demo video from the Google Play page: [video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH1ZNIQGIr4 I'm unsure what apps are available for iPhone, I'm sure there's got to be a similar app.
  10. WTB: light ice ax 75-80cm, esp. BD Raven Pro

    I have a used 80 cm BD Raven in decent shape that I could offload. PM me if you're interested.
  11. [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 6/3/2013

    Nice work getting it done as a day climb! I climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier this past Sunday (Sorry - no time for a TR) and can update on conditions of the Sherpa. Full of snow and the schrund crossing is mostly filled in. We crossed on skiers far left as we descended the Sherpa. (RH side of photo)
  12. Great photos JasonG! It's amazing to see so much snow up on the Wine Spires.
  13. Awesome trip with you Matt! Great TR. Next time we gotta go in with some skis. The sunset was really amazing [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8608096275_58c76f411c_b.jpg[/img] Matt working the summit block rime [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8609215586_f0bd335f08_z.jpg[/img]
  14. Trip: The Tooth - South Face Date: 2/10/2013 Trip Report: After getting ourselves in prime climbing condition on Saturday (Long a$$ Rock Mtn. Ski tour for myself and partying at Alpental for my partner) we set off for Pineapple Pass around 8am. The cat track/trail was nice solid hard pack, which made for some fast travel to Source Lake. The early morning bluebird sky and views of peaks around were a welcome sight as we were hoping some of the route would be melted out to climb. Source Lake The snow got soft beyond the lake so we put on the slow-shoes from there and headed up, trying to stay on old ski/board tracks for extra flotation. We made the upper basin in no time and followed the steep boot pack up the gully just right of Pineapple Pass. Thanks to whoever chopped the cornice back at the top. heading up to the notch From there we geared up and traversed over to the start of the route, which was looking in good shape. leading first pitch My partner lead out on the first pitch, working his magic to find the holds buried under the snow. Since neither of us had climbed Das Tooth prior, He ended up climbing past the dead tree stretching the standard P1 and P2 into a perfect 60m go. Climbing up to my partner (the dead tree on the right) I quickly followed behind, realized that some moves were a bit more spicy in the nice snowy/icy/wet conditions, a fine lead from my partner! I lead the next pitch. Once again combo-ing the standard P3 and P4 into a 60m mixed snow and rock climb to the summit. There were 2 snow patches, one fun exposed snow traverse and plenty of trees and fixed gear to the top. (tragically no booty was acquired.) I used my ice tool a few times, but was mostly nice to have for the snow traverse. My lead - snow, rock, snow, fixed gear, than rock first snow bit We were unsure of the true summits condition so I belayed out my partner to the top, better safe than sorry. Summit Stoke We swapped places, I tagged the summit than we began our decent. More Stoke Getting down consisted of “find an exposed tree and dig to the bottom cause you know there’s a sling and at least 3 rap rings on it”. We ended up doing 5 raps, simply because we were uncertain of where all the standard stations were located. No new trees were slinged or rap rings added. Hike out was uneventful, just wish I’d had my skis, there was still plenty of nice pow to ski. It was a great winter climb, can’t wait for the next one! Clouds rolling in from the West Flickr Photo Set Gear Notes: Tools and a small alpine rack. Rap rings unnecessary. Approach Notes: Means of flotation is nice.
  15. [TR] The Tooth - South Face 2/10/2013

    That's not a very nice thing to call your partner. Well... that comment is up to the readers interpretation.
  16. BOEALPS Intermediate Climbing Class

    I'm the head instructor, please feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
  17. [TR] Arrowhead - NW Face 12/9/2012

    Thanks for the TR, looked fun. Yodelin was very nice last Sunday too, coverage was good in the trees. Ya the parking situation would be good to know. Looking to head up there soon.
  18. Lowa Civetta Boots Size 13 US Brand New - never worn outside $300 + shipping (if needed) I've had these for a year and didn't end up using them because I got the La Sportiva Spantik instead. They've never been used and I even have the box they came in.
  19. Trip: Inspiration Peak - East Ridge Date: 8/18/2012 Trip Report: Short Version: We climbed the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak in 18 hours camp to camp. Starting off with a simul-climb from the glacier to the ridge, then we pitched out the rest of the climb. We brought one pack per team with the follower carrying the heavy loads/pack hauling on harder pitches. Descent was via the west ridge in 3 double rope rappels, followed by 4 more down the south face. Detailed Version: This was Brandon and Cody’s BOEALPS ICC grad climb, where they were responsible for all of the logistics and planning for the climb. Lindsey and I were the instructors that they ‘convinced’ to come along to the magical Picket Range. We started out Friday morning from the very nice trail head just before the Upper Goodell Creek group campsite. The trail is in good shape and the creek crossings mere boulder hopping this late in the season. We arrived at the turn off 4 miles in and found the appropriate way to head uphill. Cody had some issues figuring it out but he eventually got it. He claims it was the heat that got him confused… Now for the uphill super awesome fun climb! Up, up, up, and more up we went and luckily it wasn’t too hot in the forest as most of the climb is in the shade. Multiple breaks helped cool us down too. We broke out of the main steep part at about 4800’ and once at the main creek crossing (2nd one you’ll pass) we found, after a bit of searching, that the trail goes up the creek bed for a while. Don’t follow the trails directly across the creek, just follow the cairns up and the trail will appear on the left side of the creek. Approach views We continued on the trail as it continued up and headed for the 6245’ saddle. Once we arrived we saw the north side was a steep snow slope that surprisingly required crampons to get down. Steep snow to camp View from camp We arrived at camp at 3:30 PM, set up or tents, chilled out/napped, than ate some well deserved dinner. As we scouted the approach and glacier route and discussed what our plan was for the morning we were treated to an amazing sunset over the Pickets. 8:45 PM bed time for the big day ahead of us. 3:30 AM came too early but we were all amped to go and rolled out of camp by 4:20 AM. We made our way down the broad ledges that took us to the outlet gully of the unnamed snow covered lake at ~5400’. We crossed over and worked our way up the slabs/snow to the Terror Glacier. slabs We’d picked a conservative line out the day before, hoping for a quicker line to appear once we got closer. Luckily we found one a solid ramp leading up towards the peak. terror glacier approach Once we got below the south face we could see the snow moats were huge, but there was a nice ramp that lead down to the start of the route. We picked the right of two green/dirty ramps to start some hot simul-climb action. start of the route workin' the moat like a BOSS! P0: (low 5th + short 5.7 moves) Brandon lead out and we simuled a similar route to what is shown in this picture from Steph Abegg's TR. There was little pro on the start and some loose stuff to contend with. Once we got higher, the route got a bit harder; unfortunately the rock quality stayed the same – loose. Careful climbing is advised for the whole way up. We kept climbing up the ridge left of the left most notch to the base of the 5.8 lieback pitch. I had the pack on following Brandon and with the boots, axes, water it was a bit more awkward. Cody and Lindsey did about the same route, just left our our line to avoid any rockfall. P1: (5.8, 140’) I took this pitch and it was really fun! (Not awkward IMO) There were lots of great spots for gear, hand jams, and rest spots. The lieback flake part is easy if you’re tall – I stemmed/humped my way up it with style and grace up to the base of the steep wall where P2 starts. I was glad to not have the pack on for this pitch. P2: (5.9, 110’) Money Pitch time! Brandon chose the right hand crack system and styled up to the top. A few big cams and a few delicate moves got him up in no time. There were a few loose blocks in the crack to contend with, just be ready for them. Cody took the left crack and confirmed its 5.9+/5.10 rating. He got some extra stoke mid pitch from the climbing teams cheering us on from the summit of West Mac, very cool! Brandon gettin' after it P3: (5.6, 100’) I lead out on this pitch which basically went up to the ridge crest from the belay and to some nice belay platforms in the shade, just below the false (east) summit. P4: (5.7, 70’) Brandon lead this airy traverse around on the south side of the false summit and could have been extended out further. The more you go the more rope drag you probably get. Cody and Lindsey chose to go around on the north side and said it was similar in grade and they made their belay at a similar spot. P5: (low 5th traverse, 200’) I lead out and walked down a ramp on the north side of the ride. After which I traversed along until close to the final summit. We simul-climbed for about 20’ until I found a good boulder to anchor myself to and then belay Brandon in. P6: (low 5th, 100’) Summit Time! I gave Brandon the final pitch (could have easily simuled to the top) and he lead out to the summit. Got some photos than I came up and headed over to the first rappel station about 50’ west of the true summit. Lindsey on the summit Summit Views Descent: Steph Abegg's decent photo shows it best. We did 3 double rope rappels down to the west ridge. There is one shorter rappel station you can see from the summit, don’t use it, you can rappel to the next one down. From the end of the third full double rope rappel we found the start of the south face raps. The first one is nearly a free rappel and has got a bit of pucker factor to get going. From it, you can see the next rap station, rappelers right and is easy to get to. The third anchor is hidden from sight, but was easy to find. This is where we got messed up. Brandon went to rappelers left from the third rap anchor and found the next station but realized that there was a massive snow moat that was probably impassable. So Lindsey went next, and traversed rappelers right a bit more and found another anchor more towards the start of the south face route, it was a short rap down to it. She could even see a nice snow bridge to cross back onto the glacier, ding! Now we had to get Brandon, who was down at the other rap station back to where the three of us were. Luckily he wanted a bonus pitch to climb in boots and he still had the end of the rope so we belayed him up to us. The final rappel brought us to the big snow bridge and in no time we were headed back down the glacier. It was 7:45 PM when we started down, which meant we didn’t get back down to the slabs till about dark, this took some time to navigate, but we figured it out. By the time we crossed the outlet gully, found the snow ramps, and headed back to camp it was 10:30 PM. Stoke was still high from such an amazing climb, so we ate dinner and Cody busted out a huge tube of cookie dough (win!) and we proceeded to feed our faces as we watched some distant flashes of lightning north of the pickets as we recalled the days adventure. We awoke the next day and headed out of camp at 9:30 AM, but before we left we took some group photos and Cody just had to get in a quick snow boulder session. Climb Stoke Snow Bouldering Action! Hike out was uneventful, got back to the car at 3:00 PM, and were cooling off in Goodell Creek by 3:30 PM, beer in hand. It was an amazing climb, with some awesome climbing partners! Fri: 7:00 Marblemount for permits 8:30 leaving TH 3:30 got to camp 4:30 nap 6:30 dinner 8:45 bed Sat: 3:30 wake up 4:20 moving ~8:30 base of route 9:00 started climbing 3:00 topped out 3:30 all summited 4:00 begin rappels 7:30 end raps 8:00 back on a rope, glacier time 10:20 camp Sun: 9:30 leave camp 3:00 cars 3:30 drunk cooling off in Goodell Creek Flickr Set Slideshow Gear Notes: Rack to #3 we brought doubles of #1 and #2, with a surprise 3rd #2 that we accidentally brought too. Lots of double slings as most pitches aren't vertical. Approach Notes: New parking area and a proper TH! The trail is in good shape and easy to follow to the notch. We had to use crampons to down-climb from the 6245' notch to camp. Lots of water flowing at camp from the snow patch above.
  20. [TR] Inspiration Peak - East Ridge 8/18/2012

    Thanks! Ya the students passed! Congratulations Brandon and Cody!
  21. Yep that was me. I saw it on the hitch of your car in the parking lot Saturday morning, 5am. After realizing what it was I put it in a plastic bag to protect it and set it on the roof of your car hoping you would see it (and no one would steal it). After we got back Sunday afternoon it was still there and it was looking like lots of rain so I wrote the note and took it with me to the ranger station. Glad you got it back! Amazing video, I wish I had stayed up to take some photos myself that night.
  22. Sahale Peak Rescue - July 14, 2012 Flickr Photo Set ***I have removed names from the report besides myself. The two involved with the accident are J1 and J2, my climbing partner is the other person involved.*** Intro: We started our climb at 5:05 am Saturday July 14th from the Cascade Pass Trailhead and quickly made it up to Cascade Pass than the Sahale Glacier Camp. After setting up our tents and arranging gear we headed for the summit of Sahale intending to have J1 and J2 climb to the Summit of Sahale, while my climbing partner and I traversed below and climbed Boston Peak. And J1 and J2 got to a safe spot below the true summit where J2 was going to set up a rope to belay J1 to the top. All went according to plan, we left them to climb, and my climbing partner and I began traversing towards Boston. We got about 50 yards when we heard the rock fall behind us. We hollered back to see if they were OK and after the second asking we got a response from J2 “I don’t know…”. ~10:30 AM Accident: 10:30 AM J1 and J2 were approximately 15 feet below the summit of Sahale on the North side. J1 and J2 had harnessed up and J2 was starting to climb up to the summit. This is where J2 grabbed a boulder on his left side which knocked loose a large boulder ~3-4 feet in diameter. This than fell on J2’s left side hitting his arm, shoulder and knee. It than proceeded to fall directly onto J1, rolling over her left side. They both hung on for dear life as the boulder and other smaller ones fell around them down to the Davenport Glacier in Horseshoe Basin along with J2’s backpack. They were not dislodged from their places so when my climbing partner and I returned to the scene they hadn’t moved at all. Accident Description circled boulder is now gone Rescue: 10:40 AM – 6:00 PM Once my climbing partner and I arrived on the scene we immediately began to ask J1 and J2 of their condition. J2 noted that J1 was in worse shape and that his knee was the only thing that was hurt. I’m glad that I had taken MOFA & WRFA courses in the past because that training came back and kept me focused on the proper steps to perform for a rescue. I than looked over J1 for life threatening injuries and asked her about her condition, what hurt, and broken. J1 couldn’t move her left arm much and she and I thought that it was dislocated. We tried to put it back in place with her help but quickly realized that it was a no go. So J1 and my climbing partner began to tend to her injuries – using my SAM splint and webbing to secure her ankle and then creating a webbing sling for her left arm. We ended up using some 1” webbing to stabilize her arm in the sling. J1 was evaluated by my climbing partner and was in OK shape besides some complaints of a “stiff” knee and laceration on the knee cap, which had already stopped bleeding after we did our initial inspections of them. With J1 and J2 stable the next step was to devise a plan on how to evacuate from the summit block safely and call for help. There was no cell reception and no other teams were around at the time and I could see to the north beyond Boston Peak that there was weather moving in. My climbing partner and I discussed options as we had only one 60 m rope and a few pieces of pro. We determined that the best course was to lower J1 down and have my climbing partner on rappel, with a backup prusik, beside her as I slowly lowered her. So once we had our plan, my climbing partner set up the anchor and I attended to J1 and J2 asking how they were, if they needed water, food, and explaining what our plan of departure was. I also performed a head to toe examination (thanks to MOFA/WRFA training) of J1 and my climbing partner did the same for J2. At this point J1 noted that her neck was stiff but not too sore, probably whiplash. I kept this in mind as we headed down to monitor her state. J1 and I than discussed the lowering option and she was fine with this plan. Rescue Lowering Description Circled boulder is now gone. My climbing partner had set the sling anchor and I set a 3 piece anchor for myself and we double checked each harness and system. We took the half-way point on the rope and tied it into the anchor setting up two fixed lines to use. Once J1 was secure and tied into the system my climbing partner began to rappel down beside her and helped her along as I lowered her (P1). We went down the same way we climbed up and took our time. This system worked well with her taking a step with her good leg while my climbing partner held her steady and guided both her broken and good feet. Once we finally lowered to the snow moat J1 was secured there by my climbing partner and J2 was able to rappel down the line to the moat as well. From the moat we encountered another party climbing and they offered to help lending us a picket to use on the way down. Once gathered the gear and rappelled down to the moat I began to set a picket dead-man anchor to fix the rope to. My climbing partner than climbed back up cleaned the anchors and carefully down climbed the route to the moat with the rope. From there I set up the fixed line, doing one small 40 foot traverse to rocks, set a good nut and double sling tied off with a clove hitch. This protected the traverse. We than had J1 prusik into the rope and my climbing partner proceeded to help her over to the rocks. I kicked huge platform steps for her to step on with her one good leg. This process went relatively well, but was horridly slow. We knew that for us to get down to the camp quickly and safely a new method would be needed. Lowering Description From this point I reset the picket anchor, the snow as nice and mushy for bomber anchors, and set up the prusik for J1 to attach to. J1’s harness has the rear load point so we were able to attach the prusik to that as well as some webbing lines to lower her slowly. This slope was particularly steep with run out being cliffs almost until the end. J1 used a pair of rain pants and held her broken leg up with her good arm started to slide down the rope length with our assistance (P2). She was great the pain hardly deterred her from moving down. This proceeded for 5 pitches down the glacier until we reached a flat area. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8143/7595943344_11e398267d.jpg[/img] lowering/assisted walking down Along the way many climbing parties were ascending and asking if there was anything they could do to help. One group had a SPOT help notify beacon, which was able to connect to their phone to send out text messages. This happened around P2-P3 so they headed down to their tents to activate it. They also informed our three other climbing partners what was happening above. Once to the flat spot we decided and J1 agreed to try to two-man carry her and this worked ok until, from the more violent shaking her collarbone fully broke! J1 was in a huge amount of pain, so we quickly decided to stop any more lowering as to not risk any more injury to her. My climbing partner headed down to camp to gather overnight gear supplies while I kept J1 and J2 company. I dug out a tent platform with some other climbers who helped me while we waited. Our three other climbing partners came up with a tent sleeping bags, food and supplies. We set up the tent and ate doughnut holes and this put us all in a good mood as we continued to wait. We first heard the helicopter coming up the valley at round 6:00 PM and I found us and landed a short distance away. The ranger came over did a quick evaluation of J1 and J2 and said he’d be back soon. The helicopter took off and soon returned an hour later with the ranger and a rescue sled hanging 100 ft. below. He was lowered close by, came over to us and we set up the sled and placed J1 into it. Soon enough they were back in the air and flying away down to Cascade Pass TH. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8433/7595952888_737d1fb125_z.jpg[/img] J1 and Ranger flying away [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8145/7594495644_c51e2f500a_n.jpg[/img] J2 walking to helicopter The helicopter returned to pick up J2 and after a bit of confusion with car keys and meeting my climbing partner at the TH they were off at 8:00 PM. As we watched him fly away the slight drizzle had cleared up and a rainbow formed looking south. I think that Mother Nature approved of the successful rescue operation. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7595963984_a321af3fd8.jpg[/img] Final Injuries: J1 – broken collarbone, broken shoulder blade, broken left ankle, and minor cuts, scrapes, bruises - She is recovering well from surgery to place pins in her ankle and set all other broken bones. 6 months for a full recovery J2 – broken knee cap, minor cuts, scrapes, bruises Self-Evaluation/Lessons Learned: I think there were some finer points that I missed that could have resulted in missed injury treatment. I became too focused on the goal of getting them to camp that I didn’t follow up on things as we went along. I was checking for feeling in J1’s broken foot early on, which I stopped doing. I should have been more diligent on investigating if she was concuss and didn’t ask the basic questions (who/what/when/where) repeatedly as we descended. J2 was displaying classic signs of wanting to help J1 but not tending to his own injuries and ignoring basic survival skills like not wearing many layers while waiting for the Helicopter. I should have been more proactive in getting him clothes and warm gear. I’m glad that the ranger told him “you look hypothermic, you need to get into the tent!” which he thankfully followed his command. Another thing that resulted in more injury was continuing to move J1 further than was really needed. I was blinded by the thought of bad weather and ‘camp safety’ so we were driven to get to camp. I think that after P2 there was sufficient shelter and a nice flat spot for camp and close helicopter landing. Not moving unless absolutely necessary was violated and it added extra pain and injury to J1 situation. Having a SPOT really did quicken up this rescue and is something that I’m really thinking about getting. When every second counts for critical injuries, getting that call to help as soon as possible could save someone’s life. I’m truly grateful that both of these amazingly strong people survived the whole ordeal and are now on their way to make a full recovery. They both handled the situation quite well and were calm and collected the whole time. A huge thanks to my climbing partner and all he did in he rescue, couldn't have done it with out you! Thanks to my three other climbing partners too, you did great. A huge thanks to the rangers and Hi Line Helicopters - thanks for coming to help so quickly. Finally thanks to everyone else who contributed to helping with this rescue.
  23. Sahale Peak Rescue - July 14th 2012

    You're probably right that it didn't break, but just shifted. I'm no doctor so I'll take your word on that one Thanks for the advice I will be sure to forward it on so she's getting the proper treatment.