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LukeShy

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About LukeShy

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 07/27/1983

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  • Homepage
    www.flickr.com/photos/luke_w_shy/
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. Awesome work you two! Excellent write up and I love you got a photosphere on the summit!!! (I got the West Buttress route photosphered, just had to go back for the summit!)
  2. I found some gear around the great northern slab area Sunday June 28th. Message me with details of what you lost.
  3. [TR] Dome Peak - Dome Glacier 6/13/2015

    Yes, it was a long day. After going in last year(only go Dome), we knew the best way up Downey Creek, made good time there. After dropping camping gear at Cub Lake we headed to the col and Sinister summit. 16 hr from TH, Sinister summit, and Cub Lake camp round trip.
  4. [TR] Dome Peak - Dome Glacier 6/13/2015

    Nice work on climbing Dome, it certainly is a haul in there! Here's what the schrund looks like to get on the Chickamin Glacier as of June 6th. To the left and right sides were wide open and required a big jump to cross. I heard a team went in the weekend after to climb Sinister as well and went the same way across the schrund. Sinister Peak - Flickr Set [img:left]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/18293459263_33dccc067d_b.jpg[/img]
  5. Congrats on finishing the Top 100 Tim! Great photos from the trip, that's a really beautiful area.
  6. Definitely mountaineering boots only. Many ledges to stand on between 5th class moves the entire route. I'll have to add snafflehound to my alpine vocabulary! (Gladly Nips is still alive and didn't die of a snafflehound born disease as we originally feared )
  7. Trip: Mt. Goode / Storm King - NE Buttress / Standard Choss Date: 7/26/2014 Trip Report: Lots of beta out there on NEB and SK. So I'll stick to the pictures and current route conditions. Flickr Photo Set Our Route (caltopo map) Hike in was uneventful 15 miles. Grizzly Creek required boots off crossing 3x times and the North Fork Bridge Creek was easily crossed at the first clearing. (other party out that day found a log to cross just upstream) Once across we climbed the slabs just right of the left-most waterfall and through the "magical alder tunnel" to the open meadows and bouldery slopes below the glacier to easily find 5,200' camp. Looking up from the NF Creek Crossing 5200' Camp Photosphere No glacier death blocks were heard falling all night so we were stoked that getting onto the glacier would be feasible. The next day we awoke at 4 AM, packed up, and headed up and left towards the 5,400' bivy. From that bivy we went straight up the slabs to the base of the glacier than did the rightward traverse below the hanging glacier quickly crossing to the snow ramp and safety. Crossing the DANGER ZONE We roped up and did a big 'S' route to get above the crevasses, following a bootpack from the day before (thanks!) to get to the moat. Once there we found the awesome fatty snow ramp that lead right to the base of the route. No moat shenanigans were had. Easy Moat Crossing via Snow Ramp Matt and I headed out first, simuling up and towards the buttress crest. From there we swapped leads, I took over and headed us towards the class 3-4 portion. Our other team took a bit different way, trying to be more direct, it didn't work so we waited a while for them to catch up. Once they did we headed up class 3-4 terrains until the buttress steepened. Matt climbing the lower NEB From there we got back on the crest (clipped an old Beckey piton!) climbed, manteled, climbed, manteled, etc. until we got close to the big bivy ledge (2 simul leads). I traversed up and right into the gully below the ledge to access it. We took a break there allowing our partners to catch up a bit. Dustin and Nips on route (taken from big bivy ledge) From there it was another couple mid 5th simul pitches to the summit. It felt great to finally get to the top after a ton of climbing. We waited for our other team, snacked, signed the register and enjoyed the amazing weather and views. Summit Views Mt. Goode Summit Tiny Planet and Summit Photosphere The decent was fairly simple. 2 raps got us to the black tooth notch ledge traverse. Than 2 more down the SW couloir to infinite class 3 choss. It was nearly 8:30 PM by the time we got to great bench at 7,700'. We quickly made dinner, fed faces, and than passed out (after fighting off the rats, apparently they have a taste for human flesh) to get up early to climb Storm King. SW Couloir Descent - Views very nice! Choss not so much... Sunset Pano (Camp was down at the heather bench) We woke up early and were out by 5:45am heading towards SK along the 7400' traverse. The snow hardened up so we put on 'pons and cruised to the base. We climbed the far right gully to get to the north side and than began the exposed traverse to get to the final scramble. Storm King-landia Basin SK Ledge Traverse - we set up a fixed line for the actual 'duck down' move Dustin - Maximum Stoke Storm King Tiny Planet and Photosphere One rap, exposed traverse, down climbed the gully, and the simple backtrack along the ~7400' traverse got us to the base of Goode. WE than headed down the meadows below to find the climbers trail on the right side of the creek. It was 1 PM when we hit the trail, maximum heat, so we began our slog out. It was warm and uneventful until we were almost back to N Fork Camp where we found 2 bears feeding their faces full of blueberries giving 0 craps about us no matter how much noise we made. They finally wondered off the trail and we quickly moved on and hiked to the junction at N Fork Trail where we'd stashed trail shoes. Sadly my bag hanging in a tree was stolen/taken/eaten (WTF!), but Matt's shoes were OK so after a little break we hiked the remaining 10 miles out getting to the TH at 9:30 PM. Bear feeding face Nipples is tired of hiking Amazing trip climbing a classic route (and a choss pile) with some great friends. It was an awesome way to spend my birthday weekend. Gear Notes: Alpine Rack 60m rope - worth it for raps (we shortened to 35m to simul) rock shoes not required - mountaineering boots only for few intermittent 5th class moves. Approach Notes: Long hike in via Bridge Creek TH, 4 creek crossings, find the "magic alder tunnel", bivy sites at 5200' or 5400'. Long hike out via Park Creek Trail to Bridge Creek TH, 18+ mile slog on good trail.
  8. [TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 11/23/2013

    Thanks for posting the photos of the fun ice section! Glad you guys had fun too. I ended up at Muir around 7 pm - a rad way to finish out a day of climbing!
  9. Washington Climber Weather Forecast Weather Matrix

    Thanks you for the work on this, its great to see all the forecast in one place to see where to chase the sun! For those looking for an immediate mobile solution to look at NOAA forecasts try Unofficial NOAA for Android. It pulls the daily forecast, hourly data, discussion, and radar (not the best, but it works) into a fairly easy interface. You can save any location you select on the map so you can pick anywhere for a localized forecast. Demo video from the Google Play page: [video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH1ZNIQGIr4 I'm unsure what apps are available for iPhone, I'm sure there's got to be a similar app.
  10. WTB: light ice ax 75-80cm, esp. BD Raven Pro

    I have a used 80 cm BD Raven in decent shape that I could offload. PM me if you're interested.
  11. [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 6/3/2013

    Nice work getting it done as a day climb! I climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier this past Sunday (Sorry - no time for a TR) and can update on conditions of the Sherpa. Full of snow and the schrund crossing is mostly filled in. We crossed on skiers far left as we descended the Sherpa. (RH side of photo)
  12. Great photos JasonG! It's amazing to see so much snow up on the Wine Spires.
  13. Awesome trip with you Matt! Great TR. Next time we gotta go in with some skis. The sunset was really amazing [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8608096275_58c76f411c_b.jpg[/img] Matt working the summit block rime [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8609215586_f0bd335f08_z.jpg[/img]
  14. [TR] The Tooth - South Face 2/10/2013

    That's not a very nice thing to call your partner. Well... that comment is up to the readers interpretation.
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