WA's best alpine rock & ice routes

[texplorer]

Since many of you are veteran climbers from washington I would be interested to find out what would be the "must do" alpine rock and ice routes in Washington. I have read Nelson/Potterfield but was wondering which you would classify as -the best of the best- and if there were any routes they may have left out. In other words what climbs would make you a true NW alpine bad ass. I'm not asking for death climbs but just fun, classic climbs that don't include slog only routes.

Carpe Diem

[EV]

North Ridge of Stuart.

[texplorer]

I agree EV. The N ridge was great! I did it earlier this year. Definetely of "50 Classics" status.

[highclimb]

hey how about you do both...that is ice and rock.....Stuart Glacier Couloir is fanastic!....if its in shape you get more than 1000 of 50-80 ice/snow climbing...then when you meet up with the west ridge notch you get another 6 pitches of nothing harder than 5.6 on AWSOME rock!

Aidan

[Cpt.Caveman]

Anything on the South Face of Prusik is really good for the rock hounds out there. Check it out!

[Matt_Anderson]

Re: climbs left out:

Vanishing Point on the Dolomite Tower on the N face of Baring. The approach is a grunt, but the business ascends the vertical and overhanging arete that divides the two faces of the tower. The position is fantastic, the rock is some of the best I've ever had on an alpine route. It's not in the books because it is recent and Burdo doesn't feel like he's finished "prepping the route/rappel route." Burdo intends to put out the information for general consumption on it next season.

Also, the moves on the crux of the Independence Route on Liberty Bell are some of the most fun I've ever been on in an alpine setting. Beware the first .11 pitch - a long fall at the crux (unless the psychological pro holds).

Finally, it is not particularly alpine, but Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms finish at Index is one of the best multipitch climbs in the state.

[fredrogers]

The West Ridge of Prussik is amazing- not hard, but in great position and on great rock.

[mattp]

Ditto for Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms. E. Buttree of S. Early Winter Spire is also a must do.

For something more alpine, I would highly recommend climbing Mt. Rainier by the Mowich Face (at least three variations are possible, and by mid season they all include some moderate alpine ice climbing in a spectacular setting, along with perhaps a bit of manky rock). Ptarmigan Ridge gets frequent mention as well. Liberty Ridge will get you more name recognition because it is in Fifty Crowded Climbs, and there are those who will argue that it is a better line, but I believe the alpine experience on the W. side of the mountain is just as good and it is more of a wilderness experience over there.

Nooksack Tower is also quite an adventure, and is one of the most alpine things in the state as well as one of the more challenging objectives you might select (there is no easy route up or down).

[max]

Wilson Headwall on Rainier is an un-crowded, asthetically pleasing, non-insane route up the mountain that offers noderate technical challenges and great views.

North Buttress of Chamioux peak in BC is a easy, fun, nice looking climb. It also has an easy approach!

[na]

Slesse - NE Buttress. Exposure, commitment, moderate climbing on mostly excellent rock. Short approach, great summit views.

Tips: Don't do the direct start - the pocket glacier crossing is... interesting.

[bobinc]

NW Face of N Ridge of Forbidden has more than 1000 feet of steep snow (maybe ice) then a couple pitches of moderate rock. The approach makes you corkscrew around varied terrain (with tremendous views throughout). Nothing much in the way of hard rock climbing, but going around to that side keeps you away from the crowds on the other side.

[Bob_Clarke]

Chianti Spire.

[David_Parker]

For waterfall ice with a serious commitment, try Drury falls when conditions prevail. Classic start in a boat, some bushwacking, serious avalanche chute for approach, moderate lower falls, awesome position on upper falls, serious descent, especially in the dark! I hope to do it again soon!

[freak]

I though backbone with the fin direct was pretty cool, better than serpentine. Any body done Life on Earth up in BC? that looks cool I think its on Mt Habarachi? nic

[dberdinka]

The following 5 routes are some of my favorite, they all offer a mix of glacier travel, steep snow/ice and generally good easy to moderate rock climbing.

Northwest Rib of Forbidden

Northeast Face of Redoubt

Northeast Face of Mesachie

Entiat Icefall on Mount Maude

Northeast Rib of Goode

The following are my 2 favorite volcanoe climbs, both great! with some technical challenges.

North Ridge of Mount Baker

Frostridge on Glacier (the best slog in the PNW?)

Freak -- did Life on Earth on Habrich this summer. It's a good climb but not quite as wonderful as K.M. makes it out to be. Maybe two star (**)? The "nose" is not as steep or as sharp as the photos make it out to be. The trail is definitely steep though!

[This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 10-04-2001).]

[Charlie]

mt cruiser (dont forget the olympics)

mt shucksan, fischer chimney

forbidden, west ridge

mt stuart, north ridge

the tooth (Im serious!)

dragontail, serpentine ridge- havent done backbone yet, but i hear its better.

[Terry]

North Buttress of Fury

Incredible setting, mind-boggling slide alder (in spite of Beckey's dire warnings, "Do not descend MacMillan Creek." We did, in totally socked-in conditions.), committment, mixed climbing, icefall, views and no people.

[Dru]

north face, north peak of index in summer?

[mattp]

The traverse of all three Index peaks, usually done N to S, is the way to go for a moderate _{alpine adventure on a famous peak that you can point out to your in-laws on the way to a weekend of souvenir shopping in Leavenworth.}

[Walter_Burt]

Hey Terry

How about the N. Buttress of Bear Mtn? Grunt approach, great view of Challenger, the border peaks, the N. Picketts, interesting crevasse maneuvering and exit into gully and nice rock on ridge just across the valley from Redoubt

[two-flats-fer-sure]

Twin Sisters near Baker, just to add to the list.

[mneagle]

The SE buttress of Cathedral Peak is awesome. It's a long hike in but the Pesatin Wilderness is incredible scenery. It's stiff for its grade with pitch after pitch of 5.7 to 5.9 climbing on steep cracks.

North face of Baring is a great grade V.

The East Ridge of Inspiration is a stellar alpine experince. Don't bother with the West Ridge choss-fest.

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

MT. SI

[Bronco]

WHAT DID HE SAY!!?

 

[Dru]

I would recommend the West Buttress of the South peak of the Old Settler to any climber of any ability. A good solo for the experienced - a great first alpine rock route for the inexperienced - a huge frickin' challenge for the incompetent.