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highclimb

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Everything posted by highclimb

  1. Climb: N-S Traverse of the Picket Range-Challanger, Fury,Terror Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: mvs, Der WAnderer and I traversed the pickets this past week. here is a rough sketch of what we did. Day one; water taxi into big beaver hike 14 miles to camp. Day two; Wiley Ridge to Challanger glacier camp. Day three; Climb Challanger glacier route and descend into Luna creek cirque and camp below Fury. Day four; Climb North Buttress of Fury and bivi on summit! Day five; descend southwest glacier on fury, up over Outrigger peak and down to picket pass. Day six; descend to mustard glacier and climb North Buttress of Terror, camp in Cresent Creek Basin. Day Seven; hike out via barrier. Conditions: Challanger: the glacier is in fine shape so no problems to report. Fury: We gained the buttress from the west side via 5th class climbing on glacial slabs/cliffs to gain the snow slope that puts you close to the buttress. objective danger is very high. rock fall in constant, but it seemed like the best way to get on the Butt. Terror: no problems getting on the buttress. but found the climbing to be alot harder than "exposed 3rd class". we might have gained the crest to early but found some hard moves "5.8ish witha big pack". lots of loose rock in the middle of the route. upper pitches are awsome i am sure mvs will post a more extensive TR just updating on conditions. he will post pics i am sure as soon as he has them. Approach Notes: Wiley ridge; there is a orange flag on the steep bushwacking part to gain the ridge....this is a warning flag there is a bees nest right there, mvs got stung about 8 times. and a gy in a different party got stung twice. advise is to stay high on the ridge until you come to above eiley lake or else you will get cliffed out.
  2. Where's Colin?

    Alpinist.com has a photo with the line
  3. Where's Colin?

    denali diamond
  4. quick - solo ideas?

    ya i was wondering about the snow. might make the 4th class stuff kinda sketchy. any other thoughts on the north ridge as s solo say in the coming weekend?
  5. quick - solo ideas?

    what y'all think of the north ridge without gendarme? never been on route but was wondering what people think about the route as a solo?
  6. Be a Porter?

    wayne, all i am sayin is wait till next august and i am totally down for the trip. i know you said you were tired of looking at it, but patience is a virtue? if you have already left i hope you out on it Aidan
  7. Climb: Eldorado Peak-East Ridge Date of Climb: 6/25/2006 Trip Report: dewanderer and I climbed eldorado's east ridge on the 24th and 25th. there were a handful of parties up there and there is a boot track from about 5,600ft. (where the snow starts) to the summit. we brought crampons but never used them. and didnt rope up until the final exposed summit ridge we only did because we hauled the rope 6,000 ft. and would feel guilty if we didnt use it. things will change as the glacier and route melts out more. anyway it was a great route but a grunt to get to!! go get it. the views are probably my favorite of the cascade pass area. dewanderer might post pictures when he gets them. Aidan Gear Notes: ice axe. didnt use crampons. .didnt use picket. barely used rope. Approach Notes: snow starts at about 5,500-5,700 ft. boot pack all the way to summit.
  8. alright Dan Smith and i were in the car driving back from an awsome day of climbing. the car was kinda quiet except for the radio blasting the Who, so i desided to make conversation. i am asked him what he thought the best summit view in the cascades was. we both aggreed that Forbidden Peak has a stellar view. i thought that ingalls is hard to beat on a clear sunny day you can see almost every major group in the range from Adams to baker and shuksan. another great one is Dragontail. with awsone views of the stuart range. so i would like to hear everyone elses perspective on this. Have at it! Aidan
  9. the skier is Jon Mcmurray..and this was filmed while in switzerland(or somewhere in the alps) about 2 years ago....hes pretty fucking good...but does some dumb shit i.e. jumping off peoples houses into bushes etc...
  10. Flying to Kathmandu

    i am going on Oct. 2 tokyo to bangkok to kathmandu..that is the best way to do it. words straight from the mouth of a close family friend who has been living there since 75. i went last summer to nepal and and now going back this fall to trek/work. as for the political situation: the maoists have just annouced a 90 day cease fire. soo thats good for the upcoming trekking/climbing season. dont let the maoist detract you from going....if you have a tourist visa they wont touch you (in theory) and just carry some cash on you so if you do get stopped by them you can give them the cash as a "donation" and say its all you have.
  11. IT'S SNOWING!!!!!!!!!!

    oh hell yes.....hell yes
  12. Steve House- Rupal Face

    ^ thats what i should have done they are arent they?! glad to hears he is safe!
  13. Steve House- Rupal Face

    where are you guys getting your information...i have been trying for a month to figure out how to get dispatches from them. are they posting on a site? i am glad he is safe. congrats to Steve and Vince. Its weird to look at those pictures of colin standing with Steve house and Tomaz Humar....remembering back when he was 15 and we were both dreaming about climbing the north ridge of stuart......jesus
  14. Music Video with Slesse NE Buttress

    that was the sicky sauce michael...and when i mean sicky sauce i mean well done!
  15. slesse conditions?

    well we did it a week ago. and there was still two small patches of snow above the huge bivy platform. i cant really give any more info than that. there is water flowing on the bypass glacier slabs but other than that and the snow patch there is no water anywhere and the descent is bare. i ran out of water after getting off the mountain and didnt get any until the car.
  16. Beginner's alpine climbs...

    mt. st. helens when the snows come around.
  17. how to learn to lead low grade class 5/4 rock?

    well the way i did it was i read john longs rock anchors book and supplemented that with experience. i know that sounds vague but going out and climbing technically easy routes and just leading with a more experienced partner.... and also practice placing different kinds of gear while on the ground.
  18. the new trail is now also marked with a cairn on the side of the road as well as the orange tape. its obvious thats the way to go.
  19. Climb: Torment Forbidden -Traverse Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: Theron and Robert and I climbed the Traverse taking two days and sleeping on the ridge. as everyone says the hardest part is at the start. coming down off of torment and getting past the first snow section. we encountered scary steep snow climbing on of between the moat of the glacier and the north side of the gendarmes. as the season goes on this section will be harder to pass. the rest of the route is straight forward and the conditions of the second snow bypass are fine. we had nice steps to follow. pictures to come when theron and robert scan their stuff. Aidan Gear Notes: aluminum cramps, ice axe, no snow gear, small alpine rock rack.
  20. [TR] Torment Forbidden - Traverse 7/31/2005

    hmmm maybe you should consider another route if this infact will be your first alpine lead. i cant gadge your experience based on this post but maybe consider a route a little less committing. its just a thought. anyway if you need anymore question anwsered will be glad to help Aidan
  21. Scratch BC's?

    the bc's are by far one of the best fat twins on the market. they are heavier so they get through crud better and are durable. if your using them strictly for AT then i would say they are too heavy for any area...but if your using em in the ski resort as well. they are an awsome ski anywhere. i.e. they will treat you fine in the PNW
  22. the REI in redmond...at 7. be there or be squared...actually it will be a fun laid back talk of our week in the mountains. great pictures will be shared i promise! Aidan
  23. Picket's Slide show - WED. 23rd

    sorry all dan is right...7 o clock.....jees dont even know the time for my own slide show.........be there!!
  24. Mount Terror Tribute Movie

    i am pretty sure the program he theron uses is called Imaginate (correct me if i am wrong theron) and the video footage.....well that therons little secret
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