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Posted

def of alpinist: M. F. Twight, Steve House, Barry Blachard, Fred Beckey ( i know he climbs desert spires too), Marko Prezelj, JC Lafaille, Voytek Kurtyka, Joe Simpson etc.

 

not alpinist: John Bachar, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Alan Watts, John Dunne, Tori Allen, hikers.

Posted

I looked at the online version. It's a helluva lot better than any of the other climbing mags.

 

Maybe the desert spires would be considered "alpine" by gym rats or bolt clippers. Sure it's not the Himalaya but, there is the element of survival on those bigger more remote spires.

Posted

If desert spires count as "alpine" thenm is it only Colorado/Utah/New Mex spires or does Monkey Face count???????

 

That means the DFA is the alpine hardman he always said he was.

Posted

So true, Winter. Hangin' it out in them aiders, 50' out from the belay on nothing but bolts (some of them occasionally mobile and/or sporting homemade hangers!), enduring a long belay in the mouth clipped only into 4x4x3/16 steel angles epoxy-bolted to the rock and showing some signs of rust, running it out on the Panic Point pitch with the ground only a barely-visible blur of desert browns, hundreds and hundreds of feet below ... yes, Dr. Flash Amazing has traversed that vast vertical ocean more than once, and only through masterful skill and barest of luck has he lived to tell about it each time.

Posted

she must have fun placing those HB quadcams (ring pull trigger) with gloved fingers. But she's sponsored by SERAC, and hanging off one. pretty good. think I saw her and crank sloper extreme toproping at Baker.

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