glassgowkiss Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 This is down right stupid. Who the fuck come up with this idea of belaying like this? I see it in gyms all the time, which scares the shit out of me. Check this video- this is from actual "climbing school"! How in the hell can someone catch an unexpected fall, if the rope is not in a braking position? [video:youtube]v=XW2IbQtkp8Y&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1 Quote
num1mc Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 I always love almost failing the belaying test at gyms. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted May 17, 2014 Author Posted May 17, 2014 Yes, but the very same people make it later to the local crag. They pretty much make me cringe, on the top of that usually they get upset, when I tell them, their belay technique is incorrect and they put the other person in danger. Even more- this stupid ass technique is described in manuals, training videos, and is pretty much a norm in most local gyms. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted May 17, 2014 Author Posted May 17, 2014 What's this "belay" thingy you speak of??? Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS! Quote
mthorman Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 You will also be able to hold a fall a lot easier if the thumb of your brake hand is towards the belay device. Holding the rope with the thumb away from the belay device (as in the video) makes it really awkward to even put your hand in a brake position. Quote
genepires Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 What's this "belay" thingy you speak of??? Â he is trying to get you all crazy, Bob. please don't feed the animals. Â yeah, it is poor technique. Hoping it is for belaying a TR and not a leader. that unanchored belayer is pretty far from the base of the rock. Quote
ScaredSilly Posted May 18, 2014 Posted May 18, 2014 The first month I was in the gym I got scolded multiple times because of my belay technique. For good measure I back clipped a few times. At least I caught the z-clip (3 foot bolt spacing) Quote
denalidave Posted May 18, 2014 Posted May 18, 2014 What's this "belay" thingy you speak of??? Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS! I guess you aren't into sarcasm? Quote
Drederek Posted May 18, 2014 Posted May 18, 2014 What's this "belay" thingy you speak of??? Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS! I guess you aren't into sarcasm? Not into sarcasm? A six year old video making the fun of the way americans belay?!?! Quote
Eric T Posted May 18, 2014 Posted May 18, 2014 You should have seen these Europeans belaying each other at the creek a few weeks ago. I'm talking the rope running across the ground with a cigarette in one hand and a camera in the other. Â That S&!T cray..... Quote
denalidave Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 What's this "belay" thingy you speak of??? Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS! I guess you aren't into sarcasm? Not into sarcasm? A six year old video making the fun of the way americans belay?!?! "Sarcastic is as sarcastic does." (Insert best Gump Southern voice) Quote
Bronco Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 Maybe they're hoping the rope slips through the device and not jerk them into the wall face first when the climber falls. Quote
olyclimber Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 Thats a pretty awesome video. Climbing is boring, belaying is the fun part. I would appreciate a couple different angles on the belayers though. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted May 19, 2014 Author Posted May 19, 2014 this is also a prime example, why system of guiding in the US sucks. Time to join 21st century and implement system the rest of the world is using. Quote
pink Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 this is also a prime example, why system of guiding in the US sucks. Time to join 21st century and implement system the rest of the world is using.   ur inner Rudy is coming out  [video:youtube] Quote
boadman Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 That is a perfectly safe belay technique. Â This is down right stupid. Who the fuck come up with this idea of belaying like this? I see it in gyms all the time, which scares the shit out of me. Check this video- this is from actual "climbing school"! How in the hell can someone catch an unexpected fall, if the rope is not in a braking position? [video:youtube]v=XW2IbQtkp8Y&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1 Quote
Jon H Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) I'll say it now - any belay technique with the brake hand in a "palm up" position is downright terrible. It doesn't matter whether you're using an ATC, Grigri, Cinch, Smart, or any other device I can think of* - turn your damn brake hand palm down and belay. Â *(One minor exception - the relatively rare AlpineUp, when used to belay leader on double ropes, is probably better with a palms up technique. That's the only exception to the rule that I'm aware of.) Edited May 19, 2014 by Jon H Quote
Jason_Martin Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 The technique commonly taught by American Guides is the PBUS technique. It's becoming a lot less common to see people teaching climbers to belay like what's shown in the video anymore... Â J Quote
Wallstein Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 Someone should probably tell Bill Russell he is teaching it wrong. That is his voice in the background giving instruction. You'd think after nearly 40 years of climbing and 15+ years of guiding he'd know what he is doing. Â Bob, I've got his phone number if you want to correct him on it Quote
pink Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) Â photo credit: angry bob Edited May 20, 2014 by pink Quote
glassgowkiss Posted May 20, 2014 Author Posted May 20, 2014 Mike, I don't care who is talking in the background. Shit like that scares me at the crag. Yes, everything is peachy till you hit the ground or a ledge, because someone did not have brake hand on the rope (which happened to me 4 years ago on White Blotter). Quote
boadman Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 They always have their brake hands on the rope. Quote
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