Speed records in Washington

[AlpineK]

Kilian Jornet set the Mt. Blanc record, by way of the Gouter Route.

 

Never been to Cham, but looking for pictures of the, "crux," of the Gouter Route isn't too hard.

 

[img:center]http://www.julienholtz.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/cordee-aiguille-gouter-1.jpg[/img]

 

Kind of looks like a well traveled route. Based on my search there's a fixed line to use when crossing the Grand Couloir and hut at the top of the step.

 

Not sure I'd call the Gouter Route the equivalent of Liberty Ridge.

 

Sounds like Jornet set a good time and covered a lot of ground, but...

[keenwesh]

http://www.summitpost.org/the-innominata-ridge/546034

 

Like I posted above, he did the Innominata in 8 hours and 43 minutes Courmayer to Chamonix. 12k total vert and 26 miles, arguably a longer day than Liberty.

[keenwesh]

Eiger N face, Heckmair Route. Bottom to top in 2.47 without using any of the fixed ropes, 2.28 with them.

[Pete_H]

I can see the potential for having a pretty speedy time on LR but it's hard to compare anything in the alps to it due to its remoteness and because it gets relatively few ascents. Also, obviously, speed mountaineering isn't that big in North America.

[matt_warfield]

I can see the potential for having a pretty speedy time on LR but it's hard to compare anything in the alps to it due to its remoteness and because it gets relatively few ascents. Also, obviously, speed mountaineering isn't that big in North America.

 

I assume you are goading us on because N. America can represent in speed ascents. Numerous examples exist.

[Off_White]

Matt, I think Pete means most US climbers just don't care that much about speed mountaineering, not that they are are incapable. I on the other hand am incapable of setting any speed records (except in falling asleep, I'm pretty good at falling asleep) and its possible that has an effect on my relative disinterest in the subject.

[G-spotter]

I am pretty sure David Persson set the downhill speed record on LR

[wetslide]

Let's cut the crap and talk about the tooth C-C PR's. No more beating around the bush.

[matt_warfield]

Matt, I think Pete means most US climbers just don't care that much about speed mountaineering, not that they are are incapable. I on the other hand am incapable of setting any speed records (except in falling asleep, I'm pretty good at falling asleep) and its possible that has an effect on my relative disinterest in the subject.

 

Good point Off. I detected some tongue in cheek there. But would somebody resurrect the Rainier speed debate? It took many many pages on this site and lots of laughs ensued and enemies made. The newcomers need to know this shit. Chad Kellogg vs. bullshitter from OR. Epic stuff.

[AlpineK]

Unfortunately or fortunately the mine field will remain buried. It is a factor contributing to long time users bad attitude about speed climbing records in general

[matt_warfield]

Duly noted Feck.

Edited April 5, 2014 by matt_warfield

[ALLCAPS]

I ONCE DROVE 143MPH IN AN AUDI ON THE GLENN HWY IN ALASKA. ALASKA IS DIFFERENT THAN WASHINGTON BUT ITS KINDA THE SAME.

[kukuzka1]

Let's cut the crap and talk about the tooth C-C PR's. No more beating around the bush.

hahahha really

[keenwesh]

Nick Elson, Colin Haley, and Eric Carter just did Liberty in 9.11.

 

[Rad]

Nick Elson, Colin Haley, and Eric Carter just did Liberty in 9.11.

 

 

Skis are aid

[Rad]

Nick Elson, Colin Haley, and Eric Carter just did Liberty in 9.11.

 

 

Skis are aid

 

And so are kite boards.

[keenwesh]

I've recently started trying to run consistently with the goal of trying some long run/scramble days this summer here in CO and hopefully later on once I make it back to Washington for a spell. Hence the attempt at thread resurrection.

 

I found these times put up by Sean O'Rourke

Adams: 3.11

Olympus: 10.12

E. Fury 20.45

 

Source: http://www.drdirtbag.com/category/activities/fkt/

 

Curious about the times for W ridge of Forbidden and Mt. Goode.

 

Cheers! Now that the snow is melting here in Colorado I'm getting antsy about running around up high.

[Good2Go]

Nick Elson, Colin Haley, and Eric Carter just did Liberty in 9.11.

 

 

The Dorais bros came in the next week and lowered it to 7hrs and change.

[keenwesh]

Dang, so they did! 7.07 to hit the top of liberty cap and Columbia crest.

Edited June 21, 2017 by keenwesh

[Pete_H]

Are these all c to c times?

[DPS]

Colin and Bart Paul did NE Buttress of Goode in 8 hours and change, but that was before the southern approach road was washed out.

[keenwesh]

DPS, do you know when that was? I'm curious about the time c2c from the northern approach. Doubt that southern road is going to be repaired ever.

[DPS]

I don't know exactly when, sometime before 2009 when I climbed it. Before the southern road washed out, obviously, but not sure when that occurred.

[JasonG]

The Stehekin road was closed at High Bridge after the Oct 2003 flood, I think.

[keenwesh]

Looking through more of Sean's blog looks like he did Goode in 15.05 from the north in crap weather with some navigational errors.