[TR] Cowboys and Aliens In the American Elysium - 7/18/2013

[tvashtarkatena]

Trip: Cowboys and Aliens In the American Elysium

 

Date: 7/18-30/2013

 

 

The Plume, Warbonnet, and Warrior 1, Cirque of the Towers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Going to Wyoming from Seattle involves a time change: one hour minus 100 years. Here, things are made of logs, rocks, and whatever bits of steel the pioneers left on their way to Hollywood and Eugene, crudely TIG welded by a guy named Lindsay, but you’d best call him Buck.

 

Everything that happens here stays here but, like the surface of Mars, it remains indelibly etched upon the land for all eternity. If a front yard display of every machine International Harvester ever made is the statement you’re looking for, hire a Wyoman as your landscaper.

 

Sure, modernity has forced its way in – buffalo herds of Dodge Ram 6000s now roam the sage, and Wyoming’s rangers now hail more from Polaris than Texas, but the citified visitor quickly gets the sense that blood, splinters, dirt and shit are still very much a part of an average day in this country.

 

Despite Wyoming’s inherent remoteness, the state harbors two of the world’s most popular national parks. I was 16 the last time I backpacked in Yellowstone, and 21 when I was last stormed off the Grand Teton.

 

Colleen and I rocketed towards Yellowstone, through fires and antelope, past a gauntlet of “50,000 Silver Dollars” billboards and a ’49 International flatbed with “Just Say No To Meth!” painted on the door, with dreams of the American Serengeti, replete with herds of bison, elk, and moose being stalked by wolves and bear – the circle of life unfolding in all its bloody and timeless glory under clear blue Rocky Mountain skies.

 

West Mullan fire, MT by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

West Mullan Fire, MT by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Jump Up, Jump Up, and GET DOWN! Lima, MT by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

“Where can we see a moose?” I asked the ranger, while getting our backcountry permits.

 

“The Tetons” he replied. “We have plenty of bugs, though.”

 

We won a coveted spot on the shore of Shoshone Lake – which we soon found out was essentially the Okefenokee of Inner Mountain West. Wild Kingdom quickly devolved into Naked and Afraid – but the bugs proved as ornamental as they were voracious, which was good, because they were the only wildlife we saw – save some robins, one of whom I managed to accidentally kick off the trail.

 

"Come closer, little friend" Horsefly (Hybomitra lasiophthalma), Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Firehole River, Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Flame skimmer (Libellula saturata), Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Lone Star Geyser, Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Cleared for landing: White tail (Plathemis lydia), Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Our planned three nights out became one and we headed for the Tetons with its promise of moose and squirrel. Don’t get me wrong; we enjoyed our Yellowstone experience – the playful little geothermals which will one day destroy mankind were interesting – but Yellowstone is basically identical to the mosquito infested lodgepole hell of the Oregon Cascades…plus geysers.

 

We left our semi but probably not all that legal camp at a newish but then recently decommissioned camp site along the Snake River between, but maybe not, Yellowstone and Teton National Parks.

 

The minute we crossed into Grand Teton NP a herd of elk appeared. Then another. And another. OK, we were on to something.

 

Six pointer, Grand Teton NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Four pointer. Lima, MT by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Mt Moran, Grand Teton NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

After obtaining our free permits at Jenny Lake, we headed up for two nights in the absolutely stunning if oft frequented Garnet Canyon. WAY better than the windy col or depressing moraine, and well worth the extra morning hike when making a run at the Grand. The following morning we got an early start for the Upper Exum on the Grand and Colleen’s first sort of technical alpine climb in perfect weather.

 

Garnet Canyon Camp by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Packing for the Upper Exum, Garnet Canyon by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Climbers on the handline approach to the Grand Teton by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Starting the Upper Exum by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

The Upper Exum's Wall Street by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Somewhere on the Upper Exum by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

The Upper Exum is a huge choss pile scramble punctuated with a few feet of wonderfully solid quartzite cracks and these cool little schist nipples tailor made for fondling, but what scenery! All the upper pitches have cute little names but the only one I could identify for sure was the Friction Pitch, and only because a soloist ahead of me said “I think this is the Friction Pitch”. We bypassed the famous Y Pitch via another gully/crack to avoid a pile up and found ourselves on the summit ridge.

 

On top of the Grand Teton by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

As ‘world’s your oyster’ as the ascent route is, the descent route isn’t all that obvious. Colleen’s still a bit shy about exposed downclimbing, so we opted do the couple of single rope raps to the Upper Col and continue down the lower Owen Spalding. If you find yourself dancing on a sketchy rap stance above a deep, dark, rope eating chimney, you’re in the right place. If you’re anywhere near stainless public art piece that could be used to load a grain ship, you’re not. Go up, climber’s right, and back down to gain the shitty rap anchor your punk single rope ass so richly deserves.

 

Once at the Upper Col, it’s simply a matter of trending to skier’s right of the obvious rock buttress to follow one of several goat trails for several thousand feet of chossy, gravelly alpine goodness so familiar to the Northwestern latte sucker.

 

Handline approach to the Grand/Middle Teton col by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

The Winds!

 

I’ve wanted to go there for decades. After Yellowstone, I checked my expectations at the door.

 

I shouldn’t have.

 

An old dog teaches a young dog new tricks on the drive to the Big Sandy TH by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

STRUT: Greater Sage Grouse (Centrocercus urophasianus) with badass Shaka Zulu tat by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

When we emerged into the Cirque of the Towers I suspected I hadn’t survived the Grand after all and was wandering through the Elysium. Peeping ouzels and chortling robins greeted us to a welcoming carpet of bug free wildflowers interwoven with meandering streams and flat, environmentally responsible slabs. OK, we’d MAY have had a bit too much of the chronic at that point but JESUS, LOOK AT THE PHOTOS.

 

Leaving Big Sandy Lake for the Cirque of the Towers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Star cluster and asteroids by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Pingora, from Jackass Pass by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Pingora's S Butt - final pitch by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Shark's Nose, Overhanging Tower, and Wolf's Head from Pingora by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Cirque camp 'swimming' hole. Ask your doctor if freezing your balls clean off is right for you. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Mitchell Peak, Cirque of the Towers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Moonset over Warrior 2, Cirque of the Towers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Pika (Ochotona princeps), Cirque of the Towers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Pingora from camp by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Climber descending Pingora by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Sunrays on Overhanging Tower by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

The weather was fickle and strange to this Earthling – clear night skies, full cloud deck by 10 am, followed by anything goes – lenticulars, sunshine, thunderheads, full overcast, wind, no wind, a light squall now and then. It took a little getting used to, but the camera loved it.

 

Our schedule was an easy one. We climbed the S Butt on Pingora, as you do, followed by the Overhanging Tower – a solo scramble for me as Colleen hung at the Overhanging/Wolf’s Head col nursing some delayed altitude related issues. The Wolf’s Head was scheduled for the following day, but she still wasn’t quite right, so we opted to recon the Deep Lake Basin instead. WOW. What a playground! The Haystack! The ‘going to the mailbox’ approaches! Those acres of flat slabs! I see a pack horse laden with gear in our future. And, as it turned out, it actually rained in earnest that afternoon.

 

Arrowhead Lake from Jackass Pass. Beyond: they Haystack, Steeple, East Temple, and Temple Peaks by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

The Steeple and East Temple Peak from Deep Lake by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Temple Peak. The second ascent of that pyramidal face awaits you. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

The Winds are not without their difficulties. There is a lot of chossy approach nonsense, the climbs are a long way in, the range is a long drive from nowhere, the bugs can be bad (I hear), the weather is stream of consciousness.

 

Still, it may well be the range I’ve always dreamed of. Kind of like Idaho’s Sawtooths, only a lot bigger, and not quite as pink.

 

Please don’t quote me on that.

 

Sparkling jewelwing (Calopteryx dimidiata), Yellowstone NP by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Grand Teton summit cheeze by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Temple Peak, from North Lake by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

"Mr. Kaplan, your prescription is ready." Pinedale, WY by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Must...Not...Trundle. Below the Grand/Middle Teton col by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

8109 Deep Lake Basin, WY 42042 by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

If you believe this TR... by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Edited August 1, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[wfinley]

Woah. So awesome! Great writing and fantastic photos. Love that part of the country.

 

Must admit I had to google Shaka Zulu. I don't see the tat. Thinking you had too much the chronic.

[Toast]

That's the goods, nice TR

[Tyson.g]

Great stuff!

[YocumRidge]

Another amazing trip and artsy photos, Pat.

 

[ivan]

always happy to see that sarah pallin chick getting out n' climbing

[denalidave]

Sick. I'm so jealous.

[tvashtarkatena]

Next summer we need to get a big enough group together so we can hire horsies to carry 10 days worth of turd precursor and gear into Deep Lake Basin (8 miles of EZ trail) for big fun on the Haystack (OMG, wait til you see this thing, there's a weird grassy walk off ramp running nearly all the way down the center of the mile wide face), Steeple, and East Temple (not a gimme, apparently) before moving the party about 5 mi to make runs at Wolf's Head, Warbonnet, and maybe Warrior 1. I've got the beta on where we can rustle the horsies, who will kindly fuck off once they've dropped our loads so we don't have to eat them.

 

And who could pass up a recon excursion to check out the nearby Little El Cap - one drainage over from Deep Lake?

 

The drive from mine to Big Sandy TH (park yer car at 9600'!) is 16.5 hours - not that daunting, very EZ and pretty scenic.

 

The place is tailor made for an extended rock party for the more pleasure and leisure minded. If yer feeling a bit guilty about not suffering enough, there's plenty of hardman shite to be had as well.

 

Sheeit dog, Pinedale even has a cute little climbing shop these days, and we've already got where to get a Rancher's Breakfast sussed.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[dberdinka]

The Winds really are as perfect as alpine (with a little a) rock climbing gets. Can't wait to find the time to make another trip back there. Nice photos...how did you get so close to that Pika?

[tvashtarkatena]

We shot him first then propped him up - Audubon style. I always carry a little CO2 cartridge to pump 'em up a bit in case they flatten out in the process.

 

Actually, one of us shot it with a zoom about 100 times and just got lucky. Must have been my camera with its groovy Leica lens, given the quality of the result. All our shots were hand held. It didn't hurt that the pikas (and birds) there are pretty friendly. Often times we'd have an ouzel, robin, or finch follow us around for a bit.

 

The Dinwoody area probably provides more of an Alpine experience, but hell, we can get that around here anytime we want.

 

 

Edited August 1, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[tvashtarkatena]

This season Big Sandy Lodge's horsies will take you up to 12 miles in for $175 per 150 lbs minus the pack pannier weight (I've got an inquiry into the exact allowable load) plus $150 for the guide split between the party. A single pack horse is fine with them. I reckon the cost for per person for two well stocked climbers who will pack their own gear back out would total about 175 bucks.

[OlegV]

Very nice TR!!!

[dougd]

Glad to see that old frayed boat rope up that cliff band to the lower saddle on the Grand has been replaced. Last time I was there I slid down that thing in a good rain.

 

It was kinda messed up...

 

d

[tvashtarkatena]

Lower handline slabs are pretty wet. Colleen thought it was the sketchiest part of the whole climb!

[fgw]

Spectacular photos!!

[kevino]

Sweet Pat!

 

I've made two trips out there and had a blast both times. I've gone in early september when there is no crowds and no bugs. Count me in for a group trip to the winds! Haystack is phenomenal!

[tvashtarkatena]

Weeeellll, Josh and I may well be headed back out there late Aug, early Sep for 8 nights in the Deep Lake/Cirque. I'll keep ya posted.

[tvashtarkatena]

A selection of beta pics, with some routes transposed. The fancy labeled ones were lifted from Summitpost.

 

 

Shark's Nose from Overhanging Summit by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Warrior 1 Northeast Face right (best guess) from the NE (Cirque) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Warbonnet Northeast Face III 5.8+ 6p by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Warbonnet Northeast Face III 5.8+ 6p by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Warbonnet and Plume from Arrowhead Lake by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Haystack North Tower Minor Dihedral III 5.9 10p by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Haystack descent from Deep Lake by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

Steeple North Ridge III 5.8 5p by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

 

East Temple Peak North Prow IV 5.8 A2 8p from Deep Lake by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

 

Edited August 7, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[Off_White]

Great TR. I like the horsie packing idea, my mind has been running the same way, though I think I'll coordinate a little family extended packing/climbing trip into the Sawtooths as a multiple graduation celebration next July.

[mountainsloth]

your trs are some of my favorites.

thanks for the mix of mtns, critters, and culture.

[ivan]

your trs are some of my favorites.

thanks for the mix of mtns, critters, and culture.

go ahead n' start holding yer breath then, for ole'boy took the irascible joshk back for another go and should be back soon w/ the scores n' highlights sometime soon - it IS possible though that they just ended up, too high to fly, at an IHOP along the way and spent the whole 2 weeks indulging in silver-dollars smothered in syrup, sucking down fucking fruity-smoothies