scot'teryx Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 Just a quick question: After just finally getting into trad (way too late), I did my first trad lead this weekend at Clamshell Cave, and once I got to the top I noticed that the hangers were missing off of the bolts. What is that all about? I understand the clipping of bolts by trad climbers, especially after a climb that was meant to be trad, was turned into a sport route. i.e. - Little Bridge Creek Rock "Arete" 5.8 Was recently bolted this winter (I was told) because gear looks difficult on that side of the face, and I loved that climb as a sport route, but we went back there this weekend, and all but 2 of the top hangers are gone - and the anchor hangers were in place. It makes sense to me if the original setter thought it was trad, then that's cool, but why leave the top 2 hangers? So with that info, why were the hangers missing from the bolts at the top of the 5.7 crack at clamshell? The 2 hangers at the top of the climb were still there as there is no gear placements in that thin section. Any info on this topic to help me better understand would be appreciated Terima Kasih
iain Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 A bolting discussion started by 'teryx? I estimate 7 pages minimum on this one.
Greg_W Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 Don't know, I just wanted to contribute to this thread as it will surely be lengthy. And I hope Scott still gets an e-mail notification with each post.
mikeadam Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 I drilled a bolt hole once using a hand drill and a piton hammer (Cause I'm hardcore). It was a good workout (sort of like ditch digging). I drilled it all sideways and found out I totally screwed it up (Cause I am so suck). I decided to never drill bolts ever again after that...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 Clamshell Cave is a pile of rubble. The routes are about 30 feet long and dumb. I am surprised anyone wasted their time bolting anything there. I went there this spring and sent a route or 2. I never needed bolts for any of the top anchors.... ( I am so hardcore ) I hope Marek does not think I am so suck
mikeadam Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 The cube is pretty hardcore Caveman...Did you send that? On Toprope?
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 I did it feet first with a 40 oz of mickeys in my chalk bag free solo
glen Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 Since this seemed a sincere question, make sure to bring some small nuts with you. Slide the head down, slide the exposed loop of cable over the bolt and cinch the head back up to secure it on the bolt. Not as trusty as a hanger, but trusty enough. I'm sure there are much worse situations to get into than a hangerless bolt.
Greg_W Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 Scot'BrandNameHere: I hate to resurrect your claim to fame thread (not really), but if you're boasting about dropping acid why would you give a shit about some dudes toking up in the Muir Hut? Sounds kind of stupid to this gaper. Greg W
scot'teryx Posted July 1, 2002 Author Posted July 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Scot'BrandNameHere: I hate to resurrect your claim to fame thread (not really), but if you're boasting about dropping acid why would you give a shit about some dudes toking up in the Muir Hut? Sounds kind of stupid to this gaper. Greg W Because I grew up
Greg_W Posted July 1, 2002 Posted July 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: Because I grew up Relax, you're too young to be a crusty, intolerant prick (I checked). Have one and chill. Greg W
scot'teryx Posted July 1, 2002 Author Posted July 1, 2002 quote: Relax, you're too young to be a crusty, intolerant prick (I checked). Have one and chill. Greg WMaybe I am young, but crusty? Very tolerant........shit - I still post here don't I? Always knowing that a serious question will become a thread of past post resurecctions (sp?) .............and I gape on
AlpineK Posted July 2, 2002 Posted July 2, 2002 Ha ha ha Scotty you uptight bastard. I just wanted to let you know it was me who took those hangers off the bolts you described.
scot'teryx Posted July 2, 2002 Author Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: [QB]Ha ha ha Scotty you uptight bastard. I just wanted to let you know it was me who took those hangers off the bolts you described. QB] I knew it was you, I was guessing you needed those hangers to bolt your favorite route at Bruce's Boulder, since that 5.0 crack needs some sort of pro
texplorer Posted July 2, 2002 Posted July 2, 2002 . . . and so it began -the first 100 page post on CC.com. Could it be treyx has seen the light. Scott, did you know on the 6th day god created trad, and it was good.
AlpineK Posted July 2, 2002 Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: quote:Originally posted by AlpineK: [QB]Ha ha ha Scotty you uptight bastard. I just wanted to let you know it was me who took those hangers off the bolts you described. QB] I knew it was you, I was guessing you needed those hangers to bolt your favorite route at Bruce's Boulder, since that 5.0 crack needs some sort of pro Wrong wrong wrong. I'm using the bolt hangers for a new smoking device that I hope to have perfected by next ski season. I'm going to test it at the Muir hut. Ya want to come Scott?
scot'teryx Posted July 2, 2002 Author Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Wrong wrong wrong. I'm using the bolt hangers for a new smoking device that I hope to have perfected by next ski season. I'm going to test it at the Muir hut. Ya want to come Scott? I'm so there! How does this smoking hanger device work? [ 07-01-2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]
Retrosaurus Posted July 2, 2002 Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: ...Little Bridge Creek Rock "Arete" 5.8 Was recently bolted this winter (I was told) because gear looks difficult on that side of the face, and I loved that climb as a sport route, but we went back there this weekend, and all but 2 of the top hangers are gone - and the anchor hangers were in place. It makes sense to me if the original setter thought it was trad, then that's cool, but why leave the top 2 hangers?... The route can be protected with traditional gear and should have not been bolted for the convenience of the inept [i.e. scot'teryx]. I left the top two bolts because my son got tired and it was time to get him home and read him stories before bedtime. I'll pull the rest of the bolts out when I get time. Did you notice that the bolts were gone also, or just the hangers? If I had glued the hangers back onto the rock sans bolts would you have merrily clipped them? SPORT CLIMBERS ARE LEMMINGS
Dave_Schuldt Posted July 2, 2002 Posted July 2, 2002 Scott- you can only begin to understand when you have smoked enough pot, full understand will come when you drop acid.
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